Formosan Odyssey: Taiwan, Past and Present

by John Grant Ross

Until the early twentieth century, Taiwan was one of the wildest places in Asia. Its coastline was known as a mariners’ graveyard, the mountainous interior was the domain of headhunting tribes, while the lowlands were a frontier area where banditry, feuding, and revolts were a way of life. Formosan Odyssey captures the rich sweep of history through the eyes of Westerners who visited and lived on the island — from missionaries, adventurers, lighthouse keepers, and Second World War POWs, to students coming to study martial arts. It finishes with the story of Taiwan’s economic miracle, the political transition from police state to vibrant democracy, and its continuing stand-off with China.

For its second edition, Formosan Odyssey has been reformatted and features a new afterword by the author, outlining the turns Taiwan has taken since the book was first published.

Genres: History, Nonfiction, Travel, China

322 pages, Kindle Edition

First published January 1, 2002

Reviews

[Andrew Heitzman · Rating 2 out of 5]

Honestly, this book ambles into passages that come across as racist and patronizing. That is unfortunate, because other passages (and the existence of the book itself) make me understand how much the author truly loves Taiwan. There are genuinely interesting passages about both Taiwanese history and modern culture, but Ross's opinions and commentary make the experience a difficult one to get through. At other points, the history and motivations of individuals are flat-out wrong, and Ross tends to over-simplify Taiwanese (and other Asian) ideas. 2 stars instead of 1 because of the interesting insights, but I can't go to 3 stars because of the casual patronizing throughout.

[Tenma · Rating 4 out of 5]

An excellent book. It presents the history of Taiwan in a very entertaining way.

[Peter A · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a second book I bought in preparation for spending time in Taiwan. The approach this author takes is part travelogue, part history, part reporting in personal interview or reading of diaries, moving in a rough approximation to the arch of history.

I very much enjoyed reading this book. The author has many opinions / perspective, and I suspect many people living in Taiwan will object to his portrayal of Taiwan of the 1980’s and 1990’s, and perhaps even now. Yet overall the author’s love of Taiwan and respect for Taiwan’s trajectory is apparent.

As background the author is from New Zealand, and when he first came to Taiwan he was so put off that he left rather quickly. However, he gave it another try, found a place in the country side to live and work, and in this book shares his experiences of many aspects of Taiwan life. The book was originally published in 2000 and was revised in 2014. The final chapter is new, since the first edition ended after the moment of the election of Chen Shui-bian. Much has changed in Taiwan during that period of time, as the author notes in his final chapter.

The book’s 23 chapters covers colorful characters of Taiwan’s history (the Dutch and other missionaries, George McKay, William Pickering), aspects of Taiwan’s culture (martial arts, snake charming, religion), aspects of the Japanese occupation (modernization as well as prisoner of war camp), the conflict with China (a view from Kinmin), and the transition to democracy. Each of these chapters is a mix of history/culture together with the author’s experience in Taiwan or with the topic of the chapter. Some may feel the author is irreverent and not treating the topic with its “due respect.” I find this style refreshing and insightful. And I believe, as stated above, the author has a deep-seated love and admiration for Taiwan and her people, thus I would hope no one will be offended.

When growing up I was told that in polite company one should never talk about certain topics, e.g., religion, politics, and sex. The author did not get that message, or perhaps does not believe he is in polite company. His discussion of religion particularly interesting. Taiwan is very inclusive in religion, and perhaps very free spirited in being allowed to pull together one’s own beliefs to make something new.

I strongly recommend folks interested in a unique and insightful perspective to read this book. And I hope that some of my Taiwan colleagues and friends might read this as well – since I would like to hear their reactions to the topics and perspective. And I hope that will remain my colleagues and friends.

[Ostap · Rating 5 out of 5]

If we define success of a nation as a combination of economic prosperity, liberal democracy and rule of law, we'll find only 4 successful nations outside of Catholic and Protestant Europe and British offshoots (US, CA, AU, NZ). These countries are Israel (also a European offshoot in some sense) Japan, South Korea and Taiwan. Of the four, Taiwan's success story is especially striking: not only it became a democratic prosperous nation while under constant threat of military invasion, as Israel, it also made it in almost total diplomatic isolation. That's why I've been interested in Taiwan society and politics for many years.
This book doesn't explain why Taiwan became so successful against so many odds, but it paints a rich colourful picture of life on the island and helps to create historical and contemporary foundation to build upon.

[Sharon Chang · Rating 1 out of 5]

Some good tidbits of Taiwan history in here. But otherwise sexist, colonialist, ableist, and sometimes just straight up racist. As a 2nd Gen Taiwanese American womxn I found this book really hard to get through, almost unbearable. Frankly, I can’t believe it got published AND a second edition given its overbearing white cismale patriarchal view of Taiwan. I guess I shouldn’t be surprised though. Thus is the world of white cismale patriarchal dominated English language publishing. I’m so tired of reading English language books about Taiwan written by white men (and patriarchal Chinese/Taiwanese men). Can we please get more diverse voices??? Badly needed #weneeddiversemedia

[RH · Rating 2 out of 5]

Some humorous anecdotes here and there, but otherwise quite disjointed and light on interesting analysis. Good to have read on several diverse aspects of life and culture in Taiwan though.

[Brian · Rating 2 out of 5]

It's like a Bill Bryson book if Bill Bryson were less talented, less knowledgeable, and more problematic.

[Taig · Rating 5 out of 5]

Truly a magnificent history of a beautiful island nation—past and present.

Formosan Odyssey is easily the most entertaining and fascinating book about Taiwan I’ve ever come across. Mr. Ross is a superb writer and knows how to keep you enthralled from start to glorious finish. I really can’t recommend this marvelous work on the extraordinary country of Taiwan highly enough.

Formosa Odyssey is an unusual amalgamation of both current Taiwan—including its modern history—and its colorful past, stretching back centuries, of course. Ross skips around freely between eras and even centuries, but always ties things together beautifully. He’s a genuinely hilarious author and has wonderful range and nonstop adventures that sometimes literally defy expectation. It was truly a blast to read this talented author’s work! It far exceeded my highest expectations. I must have underlined half the book!

Even if you don’t really know, or even think you’d be interested in Taiwan—past and present—do yourself a favor and grab this. It’s a work of genuinely wonderful scope and you won’t regret it. Not only that but I guarantee it’ll fit in nicely with your other favorite reads. Great stuff!

[Stan · Rating 4 out of 5]

A combination (mostly anecdotal) history, travel-log, and sociological observation, this volume gives a pretty broad picture of Taiwan, how it is today, and how it became that way. While it is presented in a pretty conversational and often cynical or even sarcastic style, it is certainly quite thoroughly researched. In addition to the research, he did a good deal of "anthropological research" himself as he attempted to trek around Taiwan after a serious earthquake. (This corresponded to the first edition, supplemented for this 2013 edition). For anyone interested in Taiwan in particular, in manifestations of "Chinese" (in a broad sense) culture, or in the history of East Asia, this is both a valuable and enjoyable read.

[Betsy K · Rating 5 out of 5]

I was excited to learn about this book through a recent TaiwanRen podcast episode. I have traveled several times to Taiwan and also lived there for a summer, so reading John Ross's descriptions of the island brought back happy memories. It was also a great way to "travel" during Covid. Ross' book was a unique mix of travelogue, history, sociology, and trivia. I came away with a much better understanding of Taiwanese history and now want to learn more. I was delighted with the chapter devoted to George Leslie McKay since it was my great-grandfather's cousin who married one of McKay's daughters. Although I usually much prefer fiction, Ross' narrative style kept my attention. My time with this book was well spent and enjoyable!

[RJ Tinker · Rating 3 out of 5]

John,

I understand you were younger, but some of this was problematic. I'm still trying to figure out why that 'breeding stock' comment was stuck in there. eh..
--

Big fan of this man and what he is trying to do. It's clear he loves Taiwan. This book gives a good picture of life in Taiwan for a typical (white/male) foreigner and it gives a pretty nice overview of Taiwan's history. It's a great starting point for anyone wanting to start wading in the waters of Taiwanese history.

If anyone is interested, he is one of the voices on the podcast "Formosa Files" and he has become much less like the narrator of this book in his old age.

[Daniel Robbins]

Funny

Cycling and hiking tour of Taiwan spruced up with local history and unusual interviews with eccentrics. Lots of humorous observations. I was a bit annoyed by the author's admiration for, as I perceive them, a bunch of dumb dumb indigenous aboriginals. This might be because I've been reading for some time about indigenous political movements around there world and they all share the same romantic (fake) understanding of themselves and a equally hateful and ignorant understanding of their "imperialist oppressors." its all so predictable and pathetic, but that's life I guess. Enjoyable read over all!

[Amy Chavez · Rating 5 out of 5]

An interesting travelogue/history of Taiwan by a foreign resident who has lived there and settled for his adult life. Told via interviews, historical texts and his own opinions and observations, the reader gains insight into the issues surrounding Taiwan, how it grew to be powerhouse of technology, and the factors that will decide its future as a democratic nation.

[Trista · Rating 4 out of 5]

Great! Learned a lot about Taiwan history. A fantastic read.
- Review by Trista di Genova, The Wild East magazine at: http://www.thewildeast.net/2012/06/fo...

[caption id="attachment_3774" align="alignleft" width="178" caption="Re-reading Formosan Odyssey is like slipping back into the arms of an old lover! "] [/caption]Formosan Odyssey: Taiwan, Past and Present
by John Ross. RATING: 4.5 stars ****
Paperback, 285 pages
Published 2002 by Taiwan Adventure Publications
ISBN 9869995160

I recently re-read this book, and thoroughly enjoyed it again, perhaps even more than the first time. This is probably because this time around, I knew exactly which parts I sought to refresh my memory!

In particular, it was so entertaining to read about Chiang Kai-shek's shady Shanghai days, and the KMT's massive opium/heroin production in Southeast Asia, which the US provided covert planes to get it to the North American market (this is nothing revelatory; you may remember the KMT general who met with the black US dealer played by Denzell Washington in 'American Gangster' - that was based on a true story; or the book 'Air America'). It was so much fun reminiscing about the story of CKS' wayward son, Chiang Ching-kuo (traditional Chinese: 蔣經國) and his early Soviet Communist days, as well as the KMT's early alliance with them. Then there was the lovely tale about one of the first Presbyterian, Scottish-Canadian missionaries on Formosa, Dr. Mackay, who was pulling teeth whilst converting the savages 'round the island, and married 'a Chinese' on Formosa. Or Ross' excellent comparison between Formosan aborigines' cannibalism with truly horrifying nature of Chinese cannibalism during the Cultural Revolution. (Sigh), this book is truly like fine wine, or like going back to an old lover! [caption id="attachment_3775" align="alignright" width="250" caption="Chiang Ching-kuo (at left) and his father, the self-proclaimed Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek, in 1948."] [/caption]

I really like the laid-back, cool but simple narrator in this book - obviously, John Ross, who never let his ego or personality get in the way of telling a really good story. That's great! He and his narrator: a Kiwi who wants to walk around Taiwan after the devastating 9-21 earthquake, and ever in search of a beer or some other spirit to warm him, and a safe place to set up his tent!

In between amusing anecdotes of being saved variously by the kindness of Taiwanese bystanders in his epic journey (e.g. the bus driver who waits while he gets the leeches out of his boots, offers a cigarette to burn them off; or the other passenger who volunteers change; the old man who mysteriously appears out of the mist to offer him a walking cane....), Ross delves masterfully into some of the most interesting bits of Taiwan history -- at least for me -- although there are many, many such episodes.

It's easy to imagine Ross as he describes himself, sitting at a desk with a pile of well-thumbed tomes in front of him. This book might make a good text for a Taiwan Studies class, now that I think of it - because it spans early to modern history of the island.

I had the pleasure of meeting Formosan Odyssey's author, John Ross, at the Taipei Book Fair a few years ago, so this is my signed copy. I think with Formosan Odyssey, he's one of the first modern expat authors to really try to do Taiwan history justice.

PLOT SUMMARY: Until the early twentieth century, Taiwan was one of the wildest places in Asia. Its coastline was known as a mariners' graveyard, the mountainous interior was the domain of headhunting tribes, while the lowlands were a frontier area where banditry, feuding and revolts were a way of life. Formosan Odyssey captures the rich sweep of history through the eyes of Westerners who have visited and lived on the island - from missionaries, adventurers, lighthouse keepers, and Second World War POWs.... a smorgasbord of delights that both the general reader and any "old Asia hand" will find informative and amusing.

[Harrison · Rating 5 out of 5]

The author gives an overview of Taiwanese history and culture with an even hand. Anyone who wishes to learn more about Taiwan can start with this book, but beyond that, I found that his ironic wit (his professed fondness for drink and adventure!) made the book a pleasure to read.

While his voice is often (fondly?) cantankerous, it is never contemptuous. Despite claiming that "the animal that he avoids most often is people," he nonetheless finds himself in contact with plenty of interesting characters and relays to us their views and lives. The author treats his subjects with respect; he lets them tell their stories but makes his own viewpoints clear. He uses his personal story to frame the narrative but it always takes a backseat to the subject of Taiwan.

One thing I must note, which the author also does so in his afterword in newer editions, is that since the conclusion of the book in the year 2000, Taiwan has somewhat changed. Seventeen years can be a long time, and history continues to be written.

[Alexis · Rating 3 out of 5]

Nice primer to the entire history of Taiwan. May not necessarily be comprehensive or sufficiently scholarly but the simple writing (I wouldn't call this a literary gem) makes it easy to read. Also mentions many other interesting sources should the reader decide to pursue further reading. One important thing to note is the physical descriptions are no longer accurate because the book was written 15 years ago. The afterword gives a better picture of Taiwan in early 2017 (afaik as a foreign tourist anyway).9

[Vincent Stoia · Rating 5 out of 5]

I read this book when I first arrived in Taiwan about nine years ago. It has always stuck in my mind as the best Taiwan book I've ever read. I especially enjoyed the information about martial arts, Taiwan in World War II, and foot binding. It was also very refreshing to read a piece that sticks up for Taiwan and tells the story of China's disgraceful behavior after the 9/21 earthquake.
This book is a must for anyone wanting an insider's view of Taiwan...and it's funny as hell.

[Susan Y · Rating 4 out of 5]

I took this book along with me on my first trip to Taiwan. I felt Ross did a great job of balancing parts on history and modern times as well as connecting them. I also enjoyed his various adventures and takes on Taiwan and life there. It was a fun read.

[Gary Brecht · Rating 4 out of 5]

Both travelogue and history, this book explores the sights, conveys the smells and sounds, and traverses the terrain of this historic and fascinating island nation. When first written, John Ross Grant had been living on the island. He bicycled around its perimeter camped in its forests, climbed its mountain trails, and drank its beer. And while we are learning about the island as it was at the time this was written, the author provides us with its early history; the efforts of the Dutch, Portuguese, and Japanese to establish trading centers or to colonize. We learn that the original people to settle there may not have been Chinese, but perhaps sea-going Melanesians. Many of the tribes became notorious headhunters. Of course, there is also the fact that after WWII the Communist Chinese drove the Nationalists to seek sanctuary on Formosa where to this day they declare their independence from mainland China.

In the afterword of the latest edition, written 12 years after the original, much had changed in Taiwan; some to the benefit of the nation, some to its detriment. Here Ross strikes a warning note. While China continues to not recognize Taiwan’s independence, they have assumed a more aggressive and active posture in the region. While invasion may not be likely, the island population is declining and defense spending has gradually diminished. The author believes these may be factors in Taiwan’s eventual capitulation to China.