The History of Surfing

by Nat Young

The History of Surfing by world champion surfer Nat Young shares the history, stories, and inside expertise gathered in his years of deep involvement with the sport of surfing. The History of Surfing covers the full gamut, including the history, professionalism, surfboard evolution, professional surfers, the Hawaiian Islands, kneeboards, wave skills, windsurfers, and the future of surfing. Exclusive rare color photos covering surfing's exciting past and present bring to life one of the most exciting and stunningly beautiful sports in the world.
This book is the result of a lifetime of involvement with surfing and a deep interest in its history, and includes Nat's discussions with the greats of the sport, from Duke Kahanmoku to contemporary stars like Kelly Slater and Lisa Anderson.
Illustrating the book are rare reproductions of early Hawaiian and Australian surfing, along with the work of the world's best surf photographers, including portraits of some of the remarkable figures that the sport has seen.
Chapters
Surfing Roots
Hawaiian Revival
Heyday of the Hollow Board
Evolution of the Modern Board
The Age of Surf Clubs
Big Waves, Big Boards
The Oz Connection
World Championships
Pocket Rockets and Twin Fins
The Birth of Professionalism
Surfer Girls
Surfing with a Sail

223 pages, Paperback

First published November 1, 1998

Reviews

[Matt · Rating 4 out of 5]

surf all the time

[Chris Gager · Rating 4 out of 5]

The book I had was a history of surfing up to the mid-sixties(maybe). Long gone now. I found an issue of "Surfing"(ca. 1996) and that kicked off the memory thing. It(the "Surfing") had some nice pictures of Hawaii in the late 60's/early 70's, including one of Laird Hamilton at age 10 or so. I used to see him with his mom and or Bill on the North Shore in 68/69. My last two years in the Navy. Stationed near Wahaiwa and living out past Waimea and then in town near Iolani School and the Ala Wai Canal and Ala Wai Park. I was an avid but mediocre surfer. My first board was a used Hobie 10' with 5 redwood stringers. HEAVY! Then a 10' Harbour with 3 and then a 9' Harbour with 1 which I kept until about 10 years ago. Nostalgia...

[Chuck · Rating 4 out of 5]

essential reading for all surfers; recommended reading for everyone else.