Return to Sri Lanka: Travels In A Paradoxical Island

by Razeen Sally

A blend of travel writing, memoir, history and current affairs that tells the story of Sri Lanka. A perfect read for first-time visitors, Sri Lankans abroad or at home, or anyone looking to deepen their understanding of one of the world’s most fascinating and paradoxical countries.

Razeen Sally was born to a Sri Lankan Muslim father and a Welsh mother. Just before his teens, a political conflict tore his family apart and he left Sri Lanka, barely going back for thirty years.

When he finally returned ‘home’, he spent much of the next decade crisscrossing the island, trying to understand this paradoxical place. Blessed with nature’s bounty and an easy, pleasure-loving people, it was nevertheless scarred by ethnic conflict and the violence of civil war.

As a native and a tourist, Sally makes an ideal guide to Sri Lanka’s past and present. He won’t tell you which restaurant has the best reviews or the price of a hotel room. Instead, he will accompany you like a learned friend, sharing his journeys, pointing out the unmissable gems beyond the obvious spots, and unpacking the nation’s culture and history. Insightful, intimate and moving, Return to Sri Lanka is an indispensable book, whether you're already familiar with this spectacular country, or planning your first visit.

Genres: Travel, Nonfiction, History, Travelogue, Memoir, Audiobook, Biography

431 pages, Paperback

Published January 2, 2025

Reviews

[Vinayak Hegde · Rating 5 out of 5]

"Return to Sri Lanka" is a richly layered book that blends personal memoir, multi-year travelogue, and post-colonial political-economic history of Sri Lanka. Razeen Sally, born to a Tamil-speaking Muslim father and a Welsh mother, reflects on his childhood in Sri Lanka, his life abroad, and his eventual return to the island with a deeply personal lens as he reacquaints himself with the land of his birth.

Sally writes with nostalgia and outsider-insider's perspective, tracing the island’s cultural and colonial legacy—from ancient kingdoms like Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa to the imprints left by the Portuguese, Dutch, and British. He weaves in literary and historical figures such as Leonard Woolf (Vriginia Woolf's Husband who served in the British colonial government), Arthur C. Clarke, and Robert Knox, adding texture to his exploration of Sri Lanka’s past and present.

The book thoughtfully examines the ethnic and religious dynamics between Sinhala Buddhists, Hindu Tamils, and Muslim minorities. He dissects the post-colonial politics, their insipid policies that led to the LTTE-led Civil war. His observations on bureaucratic inefficiency and the entrenched political-business nexus echo similar challenges seen in neighboring South Asian countries, like India.

Readable, reflective, and quietly profound, Return to Sri Lanka serves as both a personal journey and an engaging introduction to the complexities of the island nation. It's a exceptional, gripping read for anyone interested in Emerald Islands rich history, identity, and postcolonial transformation.

[Jazmine Deicke Sandhu]

The book provides a comprehensive review of modern Sri Lankan history and cultures. I liked his inclusion of photographs and his experience of being mixed race. BUT I thought a lot of the authors economic theories were dated and over simplistic, which is odd considering he is a professor. At one point in the book he mentions that Sri Lanka is poorer than other Asian nations because they have an abundance of flora and fauna making them have less drive for growth/be more lazy, which I found odd. He also repeatedly comments that Sri Lanka should follow World Bank/IMF programmes, should deregulate their economy and privatise massively, minimising the state, and this would magically create an amazing society. He presents this more so as a fact rather than just his opinion.

[Swathi Manchili · Rating 4 out of 5]

Thoroughly enjoyed reading this book. Got to know many things about the neighboring country.

[Deane · Rating 5 out of 5]

One of the best introductions to the country, an insider-outsider perspective that's rare. Travellers and foreigners should find this book useful as an entryway into understanding the country and the places they are likely to visit. Sri Lankans will learn a lot about themselves and find things they didn't know and places they haven't been. A poignant travel memoir, both of Sri Lanka's places and it's history written by a top economist.

[Monika · Rating 2 out of 5]

Za dużo polityki, za dużo historii, za dużo jeżdżenia od jednej świątyni do kolejnej i tak w kółko (a ja kocham świątynie). Za mało wspomnień rodzinnych (myślałam, że to będzie core książki) i historii konkretnych Lankijczyków. Wymęczyło mnie to i odpadłam w 2/3 (Mike oczywiście dotrwał do końca, bo to uparciuch XD).

[Marianne David · Rating 5 out of 5]

An absolute must-read. I loved this book and wished it didn't end. It is a travel memoir about Sri Lanka, deftly interwoven with personal, political and historical aspects. All Sri Lankans should read this, every school library should feature it. Learned so much I didn't know about my beautiful country and Razeen Sally does not mince words - he says it exactly as it is.

[Hashintha · Rating 5 out of 5]

Finally, a travelogue on Sri Lanka written by a Sri Lankan! I loved this book. I’ve not been home since 2017 and I savored this book like Sri Lankan curry. Sri Lanka, as predicted by Sally, has thrown itself into deeper despair and economic recession. And, Sally reminds me why our Lankan personalities are always so complex and paradoxical.

[Tania · Rating 5 out of 5]

I looked for a book about Sri Lanka and this one was the most recommended. It was quite hard to find it in Europe, but I’m happy I eventually found a company willing to ship it to me. It’s a very nice historical and cultural overview of Sri Lanka. I enjoyed it very much

[Peter Ryan · Rating 5 out of 5]

Part memoir, part historical and social commentary and part travel guide, Razeen Sally's book is a fascinating look into the complexity of modern day Sri Lanka. The content of this book is fantastic and comprehensively researched, but it was the prose and the sheer pleasure of reading his personal story that set it apart from other similar books. If you have any interest in this wonderful country at all, then Return to Sri Lanka should be among the very first books you read.

[Minoli · Rating 3 out of 5]

I am usually sceptical about memoirs and travelogues written about Sri Lanka; either it's exoticised or villainised. This book, though, is one of those rare instances where the complexities of the island are perfectly captured. Sally writes with a self-awareness that is refreshing and does not pretend to present an unbiased narrative. I wonder if it is the academic training in him coming out.

Definitely recommends.

[Suvasini Sridharan reddy · Rating 3 out of 5]

3.5/5

A comprehensive journey of Sri Lanka, filled with history, geography, experiences and people. Could have done with less of the stereotypes, and repetition when it came to Buddhism and the history of the island nation.

[K Dinesh Kumara · Rating 5 out of 5]

Rediscovering Sri Lanka through Razeen Sally's "Return to Sri Lanka: Travels in a Paradoxical Land"

As a fellow Sri Lankan, an Educator, Career Guidance Officer, and Technology Enthusiast, I found Razeen Sally's new book, "Return to Sri Lanka: Travels in a Paradoxical Land," to be an eye-opening and fascinating journey through the various aspects of our beautiful country. Despite having spent a considerable amount of time in Sri Lanka, I must admit that I have not yet explored every corner of our island nation. This book, however, has sparked a newfound curiosity and desire to embark on my own journey of discovery.

In "Return to Sri Lanka," Razeen Sally, a well-respected professor and author, artfully weaves together his personal experiences and observations, recounting his travels throughout the country. His eloquent writing brings to life the many paradoxes that make Sri Lanka so unique - a land where ancient traditions coexist with modernity, where natural beauty is juxtaposed against the scars of civil war and political strife.

What makes Sally's narrative so compelling is his ability to intertwine history, culture, politics, and economics, providing readers with a comprehensive understanding of Sri Lanka's complex landscape. As an educator and career guidance officer, I particularly appreciate the insights he offers into the challenges faced by the country's education system and the need for economic reforms to create better opportunities for our youth.

As a technology enthusiast, I was intrigued by Sally's exploration of the growing influence of technology in Sri Lanka, both as a tool for development and a source of new challenges. His analysis of the country's progress in the technology sector, as well as the potential pitfalls that come with rapid modernization, offers valuable insights for anyone interested in Sri Lanka's digital future.

"Return to Sri Lanka: Travels in a Paradoxical Land" is more than just a travelogue; it is a journey into the heart of Sri Lanka, an invitation to reflect upon our history and envision a better future for our nation. Razeen Sally's captivating prose and thought-provoking insights have inspired me not only to explore my own country further but also to become more involved in shaping its future.

"Return to Sri Lanka: Travels in a Paradoxical Land" by Professor Razeen Sally is an extensive and immersive journey into the heart of Sri Lanka, a country filled with contradictions and enigma. Sally, an esteemed academic and economist, intricately weaves together his personal experiences with the rich tapestry of Sri Lanka's history, culture, and politics in a way that captivates readers and provides an in-depth understanding of the country's complexities.

Throughout the book, Sally narrates his travels across Sri Lanka, from the bustling capital of Colombo to the verdant hill country and the serene beaches of the southern coast. He takes readers on a journey through time, uncovering the ancient roots of Sri Lanka's diverse population, the influence of European colonial powers, and the impact of the long-lasting civil war on the nation's psyche. The book skillfully balances personal anecdotes with historical insights, painting a vivid portrait of a country steeped in tradition yet struggling to come to terms with its tumultuous past.

Sally also delves into the intricacies of Sri Lanka's political landscape, shedding light on the challenges and opportunities that lie ahead for the country. As an economist, he offers valuable insights into the nation's economic potential, examining how the combination of globalization, technology, and domestic reforms could shape the future of Sri Lanka.

Throughout "Return to Sri Lanka: Travels in a Paradoxical Land," Razeen Sally's engaging writing style and keen observations enable readers to experience the enchanting beauty and the harsh realities of Sri Lanka. His love for the island is evident in every page, making the book a heartfelt tribute to his homeland. As a result, readers are not only provided with a comprehensive understanding of Sri Lanka's many paradoxes but are also inspired to explore and appreciate the country's unique charm themselves.

In summary, Professor Razeen Sally's "Return to Sri Lanka: Travels in a Paradoxical Land" is an enthralling, enlightening, and thought-provoking account of a journey through Sri Lanka's complex history, culture, and politics. The book is a must-read for anyone interested in learning more about this captivating island nation and its potential to overcome its challenges and embrace a brighter future.

In conclusion, I highly recommend "Return to Sri Lanka: Travels in a Paradoxical Land" to anyone interested in understanding the diverse and captivating nation of Sri Lanka. Whether you are a fellow Sri Lankan or an international reader, this book will undoubtedly leave you with a deeper appreciation for the paradoxical beauty of our island home.

K Dinesh Kumara @ SOS Children’s Village’s Sri Lanka and PC World Online Magazine

[Janani Balasubramaniam · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is a must-read for anyone (especially Sri Lankans) interested in Sri Lanka's history and complex present. It is also an exploration of identity through the lens of religion and race, and a reminder to interrogate our internal paradoxes. Sri Lanka's story is riddled with many inconvenient truths and these are captured in a way that is simultaneously critical, balanced, thoughtful and poignant, with personal anecdotes and wonderful illustrations weaved in between. Highly recommend!

[Nelun · Rating 4 out of 5]

I was completely ensnared by the ‘round the world’ tour of Sri Lanka that I found between the covers, especially Razeen Sally’s clever, humourous and sometimes scathing interweaving of the ‘personal’ and the ‘political’. I am amazed at how the author has packed centuries of history into a book of less than 400 pages, with fascinating anecdotes on characters and events, both historical and contemporary.
Razeen Sally’s term ’Paradoxical Island’ in the title succinctly captures the fundamental contradiction of this still beautiful land – a place where people are welcoming and friendly, yet where homicide and suicide rates are high, and where shared smiles and laughter in the many ‘mixed fruit’ communities are contradicted by nearly three decades of a fratricidal war and where the concept of ‘reconciliation’ belies the reality of deep fissures and divides. I am acutely aware of his prescience in outlining the possible three scenarios for Sri Lanka in a lecture in December 2016. What he anticipated is now realized. The pandemic has also fueled the demonizing of a new ‘other’.

His book is a work of history, a personal memoir, a travelogue, a political analysis, embellished with humourous commentary, with witty asides. I hope that other Sri Lankans and non-Sri Lankans who are interested in this resplendent isle, will take time to travel through the pages of this book. I know I will travel through it again.

[Ransi · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book gave me what I'd always been looking for- an unbiased and detailed recounting of a country that I am from but dont know a whole lot about . Through traveling within Sri Lanka for decades as a person who grew up there for a while and then as an older outsider, Razeen, goes into each area of the island , it's history , it's present and everything in between . The book is bold in that it really lays out how the politics of Sri Lanka really poisoned it's potential and how religious fundamentalism threatens any real chance for a reconciled country. Frankly I'm surprised given the current political climate, this book is allowed to be printed and sold.
Its beautifully written and like anything that that should be read and digested thoughtfully , it took me a few weeks to get through. I think every Sri Lankan , curious about the country they are from but never really got a chance to comprehend for all its complexities should read. It isn't a book that sparks national pride or anything but it's certainly a read that makes you appreciate the multi ethnic , multi cultural history and allows you to independently question the things told to you. It also gives a view into the bleak future ahead, spearheaded by filthy politicians only interested in creating Personally, I don't know if I would ever go back to live there but this book definitely made me want to go back and visit with fresh eyes. 5/5 stars for sure.

[J R · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a wonderful book. I enjoyed reading each page. For Sri Lankans specially living abroad it will bring back tremendous nostalgia & memories. Additionally it will give a very accurate & interesting aspect of most Archaeological sites in Sri Lanka both religious & non religious. Very importantly it is current, giving Political & Economic issues up to the present. This is done without fear or bias.

For these very same reasons the book will be very useful to serious tourists or those planning to work for some time in Sri Lanka, including Diplomats.
The book additoinally is funny that it reveals personal traits of a powerful Sri Lankan family to which the Author belongs to. The wonderful story of his parents from such different backgrounds ( Wales & Sri Lanka) is hilarious.
This book has been written with a great degree of Love & Understanding by the author Razeen Sally towards the country where he was born & grew up in- Sri Lanka

[Sara · Rating 5 out of 5]

British-Sri Lankan academic Razeen Sally reconnects with Sri Lanka after decades abroad and gives us this beautiful, "insider-outsider" take - a memoir, sociopolitical commentary and travelogue rolled into one. I loved reading this while in Sri Lanka, with the memory of many of the places he describes still fresh in my mind. I really enjoyed some of the early passages on what foreign writers of the past had to say about Sri Lanka. Sally writes with equal mastery about Buddhist mythology, Sri Lanka's colonial heritage, the turmoil of the civil war and its current socioeconomic reality. Highly recommend.

[Rohini Jayatilaka · Rating 5 out of 5]

Few travel books on Sri Lanka tick all the right boxes for me, but Razeen Sally’s ‘Return to Sri Lanka: Travels in a Paradoxical Island’ certainly tops the list. Sally writes from the point of view of someone who was born to a Welsh mother and Muslim father in Ceylon, spent his childhood years in Sri Lanka, spent most of his adult life as an academic abroad and returns to Sri Lanka to explore it and rediscover it in his mid-forties. His approach combines the nuanced observations of an ‘insider’, who has experienced aspects of the cultural life on the island during particular periods of its complex and tumultuous history, with the sharp and objective perspectives of an ‘outsider’, who has read widely about the island’s history, culture, economic and social development.

What is particularly refreshing is the way Sally weaves his personal journey of rediscovery with the historical and cultural background of Sri Lanka. He is clearly open to new experiences, observant and a good listener. In Part One, Sally recounts his Sri Lankan childhood, beginning with his parents’ meeting, courtship and marriage, his own birth in 1965 and his childhood years between Sri Lanka and Wales until the family left Sri Lanka more permanently in 1977. In Part Two, he writes his ‘Travelogue’ through his ‘adult eyes’, recounting observations that he made over the course of several years after the end of the civil war in 2009. Sally devotes five chapters to Colombo, the South, ‘the Hill Capital and Tea Country’, ‘Rajarata’ or the area of the earliest historical kingdoms of the island and, finally, ‘the North and the East’. In addition to providing the discerning traveller with an overview of the cultural history of the island, that he divides the book into these geographical areas means that the traveller who wishes to dip into one particular one can do so with ease. The book was first published in 2019 and the second edition was published early in 2025. This latter edition is identical with the first, except for the addition of an Epilogue, which includes an analysis of the economic and political situation of the country between 2022 and 2024.

The anecdotes Sally recounts of his travels add much to the historical information he writes about and his observations of people through the eyes of an ‘outsider’ make for an interesting perspective. Sally’s spiritual journey from being brought up as a conventional Muslim, renouncing his faith at the age of nineteen, becoming a ‘Western sceptic, agnostic and borderline atheist’ to becoming a Buddhist in his forties is also a fascinating story and one that he describes beautifully in relation to the development of Theravada Buddhism in Sri Lanka.

Despite being only mildly critical of the Bandaranaike dynasty, who sowed the seeds of dissension purely in order to achieve their political ambitions after independence from the British in 1948, Sally’s conclusions about Sri Lanka’s political history are refreshingly honest and he pulls no punches about the disastrous political dynasties that have led our country to the brink of complete disaster most recently. The Sinhala only act of 1956 and the re-introduction of the special protection afforded to Buddhism in the constitution of 1972, both engineered by the Bandaranaikes, paved the way for ethno-nationalist politics and the emergence of an extremely chauvinistic Sinhala-Buddhist supremacy. But as Sally says, a phrase that comes up frequently in his conversations with Sri Lankans he meets on his travels around the country rather makes a very valuable point - it’s the politicians and not the people who can’t live side by side. Whether an ‘insider’ like me, or an ‘outsider’ unfamiliar with Sri Lanka, reads Sally’s account of the positive relationships between Sri Lankans of different ethnicities and religions today, certainly this narrative can only give me hope for the future of our country.

[Charlie Ormiston · Rating 4 out of 5]

I enjoyed this book a great deal, and it has me thinking...

I have always wanted to better understand Sri Lanka — how could a place of such acknowledged beauty, with people who I have always found to be extroverted, witty, well educated and ambitious, suffer from such a terrible civil war with atrocities that only “ended” with a brutal massacre of the “civilian shield” and Tamil Tigers who fought to the end?

The author has an ambitious agenda — to showcase his childhood, his influences, Sri Lanka’s history, Sri Lanka’s incredibly diverse populace, the island itself. Embedded in this agenda was an effort to answer my question.

His exploration of the island’s regions and sub-regions, his knowledge of the history going back two millennium, his explanation of how various religions evolved in Sri Lanka (Buddhism, Hinduism, Christianity, Islam) and to a lesser extent the impact of various colonial powers were enlightening to me. His history and travels did not just focus on the elites who made headlines (sometimes as stone tablets in temple areas), but also on the “common people” — monks, sailors, traders, farmers, fisherman, drivers. One developed a picture of three sub-themes — that the diversity religion and ethnicity has been a blessing and a curse, that opportunists throughout history have capitalized on the divisions for their self-interest and that the “problem culture” of Sri Lanka started long before the colonial powers exploited the weakness of institutions on the island.

The brutality and “ghosts” of Sri Lanka are present throughout the book — the horrendous tortures of the early Sinhalese Buddhist rulers (e.g. pulling men apart with falling trees or plastering a King to a wall), the invasions from Tamil South India. The Portuguese suppression and destruction of idolatrous religious practices. I understand the English word “amok” is one of relatively few derived from Malay — “a psychic disturbance characterized by depression followed by a manic urge to murder.” Sri Lanka has its episodes of “running amok.”

One final aspect of the book that I really enjoyed — Razeen Sally has clearly read dozens if not hundreds of books about Sri Lanka — his choice of quotations and excerpts are exceptional and create a long list of potential reads.

The main detraction is when the book serves as a memoir. Unfortunately he doesn’t reveal enough of himself to make the “memoir aspect” of the book memorable. We are left with several hanging threads — what really was his relationship with his father? How did it make him who he is?

Did the book increase my desire to visit Sri Lanka? Absolutely. Do I feel I will understand the place better — absolutely. In fact, the book reminded me how little I know of so many places I visit or reside, including Singapore. Razeen Sally has set a very high bar. Did I get a better understanding of my toughest question — why is a country sometimes characterized as paradise occasionally so violent? This is where the book really shines, because of the breadth of ground he covers.

[John Arnold · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book will make a wonderful travel companion for any intrepid traveller planning a visit to Sri Lanka by immersion into nearly 3000 years of written history, culture, art & architecture to reveal a little why this island is one of the most spiritually charged, complex & intriguing destinations in the world.

The author does this so successfully because he writes in a refreshingly readable style which will keep you engaged even when the subject matter covers so much “difficult” terrain in a country with so many creeds; a kaleidoscopic people who by accident of geography seem always to be teetering on a political precipice, at a crossroads socially & forever disturbed by economic mismanagement.

This is all the more surprizing when you learn the author is actually a renowned academic more at home writing on such topics as foreign policy, contemporary economics & politics.

Dr, Razeen Sally in his book travels the length and breadth of the island encountering people great & small, rich & poor, Hindu, Buddhist, Christian or Muslim who each have an interesting life story to tell whether monks, drivers, artists, mothers, grandmothers, “big man” politicians, or “servant” classes many enduring great personal suffering, sacrifice & torment along the way by decades of civil war, ethnic cleansing, emigration & identity struggles. Yet, somehow each trying their best to keep true to nature. Many unfortunately fall by the wayside lost in time and space, but a few come through their experience seemingly unharmed, even strengthened, always “smiling,” joyous & generous with their time & sharing their life´s lessons.

After much profound contemplation the reader is taken on a wonderful and unexpected turn in the last chapter & we are drawn away from experiences of others & given the rare, unique opportunity to penetrate through surface of the author himself, into a delightful journey of self-discovery to reveal that the only real lesson in life, & that which makes all other lessons quite meaningless is to understanding a little more about our own mortality & the core foundation stones that make us the people we are.

Don´t be fooled by the title of this book. It is certainly a fantastic travel guide, but this book is so much more; it is also a spiritual guide of immense value to anyone interested in making their own particular voyage within.

[noorthebookworm · Rating 4 out of 5]

Return To Sri Lanka
Genre Non-Fiction; a TRAVEL MEMOIR.

#qotd Do you get goosebumps when you visit your place/home of birth❓ Does it have a special place in your heart❓ Doesn't revisiting your childhood memories bring about nostalgia ❓Do you know the old name of Sri Lanka❓ Have you ever read a memoir❓

The Author, was born in Sri Lanka. His father was a native of the place & his mother was not.

He has dedicated this book to his mother..& it has beautiful lines..emotions..which are heart touching..

This is the author's first attempt at writing a Memoir..he has written a number of academic & books about economics earlier.

He grew up in Colombo but was compelled to do his later schooling & university studies in the UK.

Do to his professional work he has travelled around the globe but..in his late 40's he felt an inner calling to revisit Sri Lanka..post his childhood.

This memoir is divided into 2parts, 8 chapters & 386 pages.

In the first part, he talks about his parents, how they met..what was the situation in Ceylon (Sri Lanka) then..his childhood..
In the second part, he talks about his journey as an adult. Revisiting his memories..seeing Sri Lanka in a new light..

The NARRATION is very detailed & descriptive..it touches our heart strings.

Language, writing style is simple with play of few new words here & there.

The COVER is awesome & detailed, both the front & back covers.

TITLE is simple & self explanatory.

The book has few colored glossy pics & maps too.

He talks about the beauty of Sri Lanka, the politics, culture..in the past & now, in the present.

It takes us on a wonderful journey through this beautiful island country.

Available @amazondotin INR 310/-
@amazonkindle INR 199/-

#srilanka
#colombo
#bookstagram
#travel
#memoir
#juggernaut

[Ajith Fernando · Rating 5 out of 5]

Possibly one of the most engaging book I have read.

Having been born and bred in Sri Lanka I thought I knew pretty much everything there was to know about this country. I was wrong. While reading the book I was awed by the little twist and turns that were so new and the special interpretations that made sense of some of the foundation beliefs I had about the history of this country.

The book itself in my view comes in three parts even though they are mixed up. On one side the author discusses the history of the country itself in a way that is completely new or at least new to me. Historical figures are examined under a microscope where they appear to be very different to the fork lore. This to me was the most fascinating and important part of the book. Taken in isolation this part alone would be enough to set off a minor war!

The second part of course is the authors own background growing up in this country. Being the same age as the author I could relate t all the experiences that he talks of and it really did take me back memory lane. This art is touching and sensitive and is in complete contrast to the first part.

The final part is the travel diary of the author. While I have travelled almost all the places he describes his ability to bring the location to life through words is truly amazing.

Different people will have a different reason to read this. However I have put this down as a truly amazing book for so many reasons that I am sure anyone with a serious interest in Sri Lanka should read it.

[Kamala Mani · Rating 5 out of 5]

Sally weaves together Sri Lanka's rich history, from ancient civilizations to colonial influences and post-independence struggles. He examines how these historical layers have shaped the country's diverse cultural landscape.

Drawing on his expertise as an economist and political analyst, Sally offers insightful commentary on Sri Lanka's political landscape and economic potential. He discusses the challenges faced by the nation and explores possibilities for future development. The book is not merely an academic analysis but also a personal narrative. Sally, who is of Sri Lankan and British descent, recounts his childhood experiences in Sri Lanka and his return to the country as an adult. This personal element adds depth and emotional resonance to the narrative.

Sally's writing style is engaging and accessible, blending personal anecdotes with historical facts and cultural observations. The book is structured as a travelogue, taking readers on a journey across various regions of Sri Lanka, from bustling cities to serene landscapes.This book offers a nuanced perspective on a country often oversimplified in global narratives. By exploring the paradoxes and complexities of Sri Lankan society, Sally provides readers with a more comprehensive understanding of the nation's challenges and potential.

Through Sally's expert analysis and personal reflections, the book provides a nuanced portrait of a nation grappling with its past while looking towards the future.

[Celestine Woo · Rating 5 out of 5]

Loved this book. I visited Sri Lanka for the first time in July 2025 and had a wonderful time. This book is a nice blend of memoir and in-depth history, and I learned a lot. Sally is half British and half Sri Lankan, and learning about his life and observations over decades of living in, then regularly visiting, Sri Lanka is fascinating. He is an economist, historian, and professor, and goes into tremendous detail about the political history, so his book will appeal to anyone who wants to learn about those subjects, and if it is too detailed for other readers, fine, skim over the ins and outs of political movements, and just enjoy the rich, vivid, insider's knowledge of people, places, and phenomena. Sally does a balanced job of portraying the best of Sri Lanka--his memories of growing up Muslim in a land where Buddhists, Muslims, Christians, and others all got along just fine--and the most painful parts, where war, corruption, and economic collapse have decimated the country.

He outlines his potential visions for Sri Lanka's future, in the 2020s: positive movement, stalemate, and regression, and the conditions for each. He answered some of my questions that I had while I was there, that I didn't want to ask, like how the recent horrific warfare has affected normal people. He lyrically describes a society and culture rich in diversity of religion and ethnicity, and his story is not only highly informative, but inspiring and moving.

[Eileen Hewson · Rating 5 out of 5]

Think you know Sri Lanka then think again. Despite being a regular visitor for over 40 years there are still secrets in the woodwork of this country, I did not know. Now they have all been revealed, from corrupt politicians, all on the road of self aggrandizement and wealth who offer a sop to placate the underclasses by giving a few rupees of the price of dahl. They borrow money from the Chinese to build roads, airport facilities and a harbour, the latter two are just vanity projects and never used. Unable to repay the loans a 99 year lease on the harbour is given to the Chinese, leaving the port wide open to a foreign invasion even though there is a clause in the lease forbidding the landing of the troops. Razeen Sally is to be commended for his unbiased account of the politics and the history of this beautiful island, his book reveals everything and is worth its weight in gold for those of us who love Sri Lanka. The book is filled with interesting anecdotes of the people who lived there and I have found secret places through his eyes, I did not know existed. I can't wait to get back and see them.

[Jayant · Rating 5 out of 5]

Razeen Sally is one of the rare economists who understands and sees Asia from the perspective of classical liberalism. Being half-British, half-Sri Lankan, and from a Muslim family, he offers a unique perspective on Asia. He grew up between the UK and Sri Lanka, and instinctively thinks of the world as his playground.

Having been teaching the top bureaucrats of Asia in Singapore for a decade, he understands the worldviews and limitations of the governing class. He was, until recently, also an advisor to the Prime Minister of Sri Lanka, which gave him an insider’s look at what happens in the minds of politicians.

Razeen Sally’s book does not come across as having been written by an economist. It is colorful and poetic and does a great job of weaving together the complexity of Sri Lankan society. As someone who grew up in India, I like to see how different cultural issues have played out in Pakistan, Myanmar, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka, and understand what awaits them in the future. Sri Lanka is the most prosperous South Asian country and gives some glimpses of what would happen to other south Asian countries as—and if—they grow prosperous.

[Ellen Dissanayake · Rating 5 out of 5]

Razeen Sally’s Return to Sri Lanka: Travels in a Paradoxical Island is a great achievement. In highly readable prose, the author interweaves a number of subjects of interest to the island nation’s residents and visitors alike: a description of his childhood years before leaving for the U.K. at age 12; a detailed and reader-friendly history of the island, from its mythological origins to recent horrifying decades; engaging impressions of his recent and frequent travels as an adult in all parts of the country; and perceptive reflections on his experiences of the island and its past, present, and possible futures. It is so much more than the usual memoir or travel book. Indeed, I would say that it is the best book I have ever read about Sri Lanka. The author’s Envoi is especially interesting and moving—showing the complexity of his responses to this contradictory country. For anyone who is looking for a book to read about Sri Lanka, this is the one to choose.
Ellen Dissanayake

[James Harmer · Rating 5 out of 5]

I cannot recommend Razeen Sally’s Return to Sri Lanka enough. If you are travelling to Sri Lanka, do yourself a favour and read or listen to this book. Razeen recounts in such engaging detail his childhood in Sri Lanka, the political circumstances that led to their family migrating to the UK, and the rediscovery of returning to Sri Lanka as an adult and free agent. The personal narrative has interspersed within it a faithful but unbiased account of Sri Lanka’s political and civil challenges post-Independence and gives the lay-person an excellent foundation for a conversation on the topic. It will certainly assist you in with context at the dinner table if you are travelling there or spending time with Sri Lankans. If you indulge in the audio book - Razeen’s own narration is is both soothing and engaging - the hallmark of a career in academia. An excellent choice for anyone with an interest in Sri Lanka, or colonial and post-colonial history more broadly.

[James Houston · Rating 5 out of 5]

Like a friendly tour guide, Razeen takes you on his adventure of reconnection and rediscovery. He peppers the journey with flashbacks to history - both his own and others within the island - and invitations to meet friends and connections throughout the island. I loved how Razeen shares the stories of so many Sri Lankans, highlighting the incredible suffering and trauma that is such a part of daily life and also the amazing resilience and hope that the islanders have.
I have had the privilege of visiting Sri Lanka several times, and Razeen helped me to understand much more about the island and once again made me want to visit and explore!
I've recommended this book to several friends and connections, who like Razeen, have strong ties to the island but now live elsewhere, and they are thoroughly enjoying it also.

[Michael · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is an incredible book. I read it in preparation for a trip to Sri Lanka. I realized how little I knew about Sri Lanka's history and culture, so I am giving myself a crash course. This is nominally a travel book, but it's so much more than that. It is simultaneously a personal memoir and an expansive exploration of Sri Lankan history, religion, culture, etc. The author returns to his childhood home of Sri Lanka and hires drivers to take him to every corner of the country. Along the way, he creates a rich narrative of what has changed over the years, the religious and historic origins of each part of the country, and the current state of affairs. The author is an astute observer and remarkably well educated, so it's a fascinating lens on Sri Lanka. I'm not sure I've read a travelogue like this before.