Once Upon a Time in Portugal

by Dmitry Berkut, Christian Bretschneider (editor), Dina Gazizova (illustrator)

Once Upon a Time in Portugal is an expat’s tale, a reflective and immersive journey through the life of a photojournalist who trades the chaos of global travel for the tranquil rhythm of life in Portugal.
Blending personal stories, cultural observations, and moments of deep introspection, the book explores themes of belonging, transformation, and the universal search for meaning in the small yet profound experiences of everyday life.

Genres: Travel, Portugal

197 pages, Kindle Edition

Published December 27, 2024

About the author

Dmitry Berkut (Дмитрий Беркут) is a writer and photojournalist, the author of several novels in both Russian and English. With a professional background in journalism, Dmitry has traveled extensively, specializing in social reporting. His work has been published by various media outlets worldwide. His photography book, Under the Asian Sun, dedicated to his time at the BBC Russian Service, won the Zhar-Kniga Russian National Book Design Competition in 2020.
Dmitry currently resides by the ocean in Portugal, focusing entirely on his writing.

Reviews

[Dmitry Berkut]

A few words about this book.
To be precise, my first visit to Portugal happened back in the late nineties when I hitchhiked my way across the border illegally. At that time, I was a “carefree Russian vagabond,” living for about a year in the central part of the country between the Serra da Estrela and Serra da Gardunha mountain ranges on the outskirts of a small town.
On cold winter evenings, I’d sit by the fireplace with a glass
of tinto, feeding the flames with broken fruit crates, dreaming desperately of life by the ocean in the magical city of Porto — a place where dragons soar above the vineyards in the valley, where the sun sinks into the ocean with a hiss every evening, and where people speak about simple things like love, home, family, and beauty.

Fellini once said that our fantasies are our true lives. Everyone lives in their own imagined world, but most people don’t realize it. No one knows the real world. Each person calls their personal fantasies the Truth. “Fantasies are the only reality,” Federico claimed.

I moved to live in Porto because my inner Portugal had come as close as it could to manifesting in the physical world.

When I start looking at my dreams rationally, drawing them closer in my mind and examining them in detail, they stop seeming unattainable and gradually shift into the realm of thoughtful ideas.
The most fascinating thing in this world is turning your fantasies into everyday life, merging their intricate blueprint with the pattern of the real world, and redrawing your destiny in alignment with your dreams. Yet often, to achieve our goals, we first need to step away from them, take a step back and see the full picture of what we desire, to reflect and understand.
For me, that step stretched into a long twenty years...

I hope you enjoy my book. Please share your feelings with me here after reading it.


Ru: Несколько слов об этой книге.
Если быть точным, то впервые я приехал в Португалию ещё в конце девяностых, нелегально, автостопом. В ту пору я, «беспечный русский бродяга», около года жил в центральной части страны, между Сиерра да Эштрелла и Сиерра да Гардунья, в пригороде одного небольшого горного городка. Холодными зимними вечерами я сидел напротив камина с бокалом красного столового — тинту, кормил огонь разбитыми ящиками от фруктов, и отчаянно мечтал о жизни на побережье океана, в сказочном городе Порту. Там, где в долине над виноградниками летают драконы, солнце каждый вечер с шипением погружается в океан, а люди, рассуждают о простых вещах — любви, доме, семье и красоте.

Феллини говорил, что наши фантазии — это и есть наша настоящая жизнь. Каждый живет в собственном вымышленном мире, но большинство людей этого не понимают. Никто не знает подлинного мира. Каждый называет Истиной только свои личные фантазии. Фантазии — единственная реальность, — утверждал Федерико.

Я переехал жить в Порту потому, что моя внутренняя Португалия стала максимально близка к её проявлению на физическом плане. Когда я начинаю смотреть на свои мечты рационально, приближаю их мысленным взором и рассматриваю детально, то они перестают выглядеть чем-то несбыточным и постепенно переходят в разряд осмысленных идей. Самое увлекательное, что может быть в этом мире, это превращать свои фантазии в повседневную жизнь, совмещать их замысловатую кальку с рисунком реального мира, и перерисовывать судьбу, в соответствии со своими мечтами. Но зачастую, нам, чтобы достигнуть своей цели, необходимо сначала отступиться от неё, сделать шаг назад, чтобы полнее охватить взором желаемое. Присмотреться и осмыслить. И этот мой шаг растянулся на долгих двадцать лет.

Надеюсь, вам понравится моя книга. Пожалуйста, поделитесь своим мнением после прочтения.

[Sofia · Rating 5 out of 5]

Увлекательное чтиво, в котором автор делится своим личным взглядом на Португалию. Каждая глава пропитана не только знаниями о стране, но и искренними эмоциями, переживаниями и воспоминаниями. Особый шарм книге придают художественные «португальские» главы. Это сразу же добавляет особую романтическую атмосферу. Дмитрий умело переплетает личный опыт с культурными и историческими аспектами Португалии, создавая яркий и живой текст, который будет интересен как любителям эссеистики, так и поклонникам художественной литературы.

[Nina · Rating 5 out of 5]

Всё, что выходит из под пера Дмитрия Беркут, читаю с большим удовольствием! И эта книга очень понравилась, захотелось поделиться о ней с друзьями и любителями книг о приключениях. С интересом читала и узнала много нового о жизни в Португалии, то, чего проездом не увидишь. Очень захотелось еще раз вернуться в Порто, окунуться в этот чудесный мир, увидеть описанные места, посидеть на берегу океана, почувствовать Sodade... Книга зовет в новые путешествия. Написана увлекательно и своеобразно!
Рекомендую!

[Joe Henry · Rating 5 out of 5]

Once Upon a Time in Portugal is a thoughtful and immersive memory that explores themes of change, belonging and the beauty of everyday moments. Through the perspective of a Portugal is portrayed not just as a place but as experience one that unfolds through rich cultural encounters and personal reflection.

What makes this book so captivating is its blend of personal narrative and cultural observation. The author lifestyle with the slower more mindful rhythm of life in Portugal, revealing how change can shape both the heart and mind. More than just a travel it’s a deeply introspective journey of personal and philosophical transformation.

[natyregool · Rating 5 out of 5]

Русскоязычных книг про Португалию не так уж много, а тут еще и личная экспатская история, разворачивающаяся в двух временных отрезках: в наше время и в конце девяностых, и одно из центральных мест в этой истории занимает город Порту, который я нежно люблю.

Так здорово читать названия улиц, мостов, пляжей и подставлять свои собственные воспоминания этих мест.

Здесь много португальских слов(написанных русскими буквами), используемых для создания настроения и колорита, и эти словечки типа паштелария, ум-кафе, у-ке-ишто, оля - для меня не экзотичные, а очень даже знакомые и понятные.

Кроме личной истории, это также своеобразный путеводитель по Португалии в художественной форме. Особенности быта, отношение к жизни, распространенные мифы и легенды, океан, футбол, лингвистические загадки и, конечно, знаменитая saudade, которой пронизан весь роман.

Saudade - не то сладкая ностальгия по прошлому, не то светлая грусть, но это разрешение себе грустить, тосковать, и это важная часть португальской идентичности.

В романе много saudade, а еще атлантической бесконечности, соленого воздуха, терпкого вина и крепкого кофе.

Написано с огромной любовью к этой стране и особенно - к Порту, к людям и к местам, от которых пишется.

Кроме того, это важный текст для тех, кто не чувствует, что имеет дом, или выбирает его не иметь, кто ищет себя в себе и в дороге, кто старается интегрироваться в иную культуру.

(Как вы думаете, был ли Колумб португальцем?)

[Бушов Сергей · Rating 5 out of 5]

Эта книга не такая, как другие книги Дмитрия Беркута - хотя, собственно, у него все книги разные.
Можно назвать её чем-то вроде путевых заметок или кусочка автобиографии, но это будет полуправда.
Она простая, но не примитивная, позитивная, но не пустая. Это похоже на разговор с интересным человеком. Очень трудно после такого разговора сразу сказать, что ты от него получил, но я точно что-то получил, и это было как-то очень вовремя.
Не знаю, что ещё сказать, но этот небольшой текст точно стоит того времени, которое я затратил на прочтение.

[Maria · Rating 5 out of 5]

“Once Upon a Time in Portugal” is a vivid memoir that shows how slowing down and finding meaning in everyday life is priceless to some. The author, Dmitry Berkut’s storytelling is compelling as this is his second book I am reading and looking forward to read more of his work. I found Dimesh’s character in the book a resilient one and hence making the read an interesting one. Highly recommend it.

[Vladimir · Rating 5 out of 5]

Обригадо, Димиш! Не успел дочитать, а уже начал учить португальский😅 Очаровал

[Alexa Jacks · Rating 5 out of 5]

Berkut is writing in a gentle, engaging, and very human way. I expected this book to be a simple travelogue, but it was so much more. His reflections on life under lockdown were realistic and somber, while the section on the Caretos festival was a whirlwind of color and activity. I found myself laughing, crying, and thinking simultaneously while reading this book. I will be marketing this special gem to all my acquaintances.

[Mohd Aarif · Rating 5 out of 5]

Berkut writes with warmth, interest, and vitality. This book was far more than the straightforward travelogue I had anticipated.

His comments on lockdown life sounded genuine and profound, while the part about the Caretos festival was vibrant and full of life. I simultaneously laughed, cried, and thought while reading this book.

It is a special book, and I will tell everyone I know to read it.

[Tom Philips · Rating 5 out of 5]

Once Upon a Time in Portugal is a captivating memoir that delves into themes of change, identity and the beauty of everyday life. More than just a place Portugal comes to life as an experience one shaped by introspection and personal transformation.
What stood out most to me was its exploration of finding meaning and a sense of home in mundane daily life. The rich descriptions make you feel as if you’re walking through Porto alongside the author experience its charm firsthand. Its a beautiful reminder that happiness and peace come not just from achieving goals but also from being present in the moment.

[Bibha Singh · Rating 5 out of 5]

An interesting account of one’s travel

Dmitry Berkut’s “Once Upon a Time in Portugal” takes readers on a journey through a photojournalist starting a new life. Personally I like travelogues and one of my favorite book is from this genre. This book also cuts the mark for being one of the best travel books I have read as this book offers more than just being a travel story, it’s also reflective. This book makes me want to travel to Portugal ones in my lifetime. A must-read for those who love travel, introspection, and the beauty of simple moments. Read it to experience a beautiful journey.

[Manju Kashyap · Rating 5 out of 5]

Once Upon a Time in Portugal isn’t just about Portugal; it’s about personal exploration and the inner journey. Reading the chapter about the Camino de Santiago made me realize that this is more than just a pilgrimage—it’s a path to understanding yourself, your true desires, and your fears. I’ve now decided that I will walk the Camino next year, to experience eI continue to discover books about Europe, and this one about Portugal turned out to be a true revelation for me. The author has created something far beyond a simple story about life in Portugal. It’s not just a travelogue; it’s a heartfelt tale of self-discovery in a new country. While reading, I felt as if I were walking alongside him through narrow streets, listening to the sound of the ocean, and savoring the taste of local wine. The book paints an entire world full of colors, scents, and emotions.

[Jennifer Miller · Rating 5 out of 5]

Because it's simple for independent contractors to obtain residency, Dimesh, a Russian vagrant, chooses to settle in Portugal, more especially Porto. Although he is a free spirit and vagrant who dislikes being confined to one location, there is something alluring about Porto. I appreciated how he clarified to Krista the distinction between a vagrant and a traveler, stating that the former seeks out a "home" after finishing their mission, whilst the latter does not, as they do not truly have one. Anywhere they are is their home.

You will be transported to the streets of Portugal by the author's in-depth depiction of the country.

[Keshav Poddar · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book became an unexpected discovery for me. At first, I thought it would be a typical travel memoir, but it turned out to be so much more. The author delves into the daily rhythms of life in Portugal, sharing not only fascinating facts but also his deeply personal journey. By the end, I felt as though I had gained a new friend who inspired me to look at life more slowly, to notice the beauty in simple things, and to embrace change as an adventure. Highly recommended!

[Christian Bretschneider · Rating 5 out of 5]

A charming little coastal country in the far southwest of Europe has become a destination of much interest for many people across the world in recent years. Dmitry, author of the novels Clochard and Adult Life, who spent his career documenting various events and experiences around the world as a photojournalist, catalogues his time spent in Portugal as an expat. His narration of his sojourns in different regions of the country are colored with his own spontaneous personal experiences in places like the idyllic island archipelagos of the Azores and Madeira, the sunny southern coastal region of Algarve, rustic villages in the northeastern Trás-os-Montes region, and his time as a resident in the attractive city of Porto. From each different region he gives unique insights into the local cultures along with interesting historical details and amusing personal anecdotes.

Once Upon a Time in Portugal is an entertaining and informative trip through an intriguing and beautiful country, a view of Portugal unlikely to be found in popular tourist travel guides.

[Alisha · Rating 5 out of 5]

Once Upon a Time in Portugal is a fascinating journey through both the present and the past of Portugal. The author not only immerses you in the vibrant present-day life of the country but also takes you back to its rich history. You’ll discover the ancient Carnival of Caretos, a colorful and mysterious tradition, and the theory about the true origins of Christopher Columbus. You’ll learn where he might have really come from, which adds an intriguing layer to Portugal’s already captivating history. The book intertwines these elements with the protagonist’s journey, creating a story that crosses time and space. The lines between life in Portugal in the late 90s and today blur in such a captivating way. If you love history and cultural exploration, I highly recommend this book — it’s a journey you don’t want to miss!

[Amanda Davis · Rating 5 out of 5]

In Once Upon a Time in Portugal, the past and present of Portugal come together in an unforgettable way. You’ll learn about the ancient Carnival of Caretos, a celebration that feels like it’s straight out of a forgotten time, and discover a compelling theory about the birthplace of Christopher Columbus. The book also gives a fascinating glimpse into the life of the country both in the late 90s and today. The narrative is enriched by the protagonist’s connection to the character from Kloshar, and the two storylines intertwine in a surprising and moving way. It’s a captivating read that will leave you wanting more. If you’re looking for a book that offers both adventure and history, this one is definitely for you!

[Shreyansh · Rating 5 out of 5]

Once Upon a Time in Portugal is an enchanting journey into the heart of Portugal, where past and present beautifully intertwine. The author takes us through the ancient Carnival of Caretos, describing the masks with such vivid detail that you can almost feel their eerie power and mystique. But the book is not only about traditions. It also dives deep into the theory surrounding Christopher Columbus’s origins, giving us a fascinating perspective on his possible birthplace. The story masterfully shifts between life in Portugal today and in the late 90s, with a narrative thread that brings a character from Kloshar back into the fold. If you're drawn to history, culture, and personal discovery, this book is a must-read.

[Sameera · Rating 5 out of 5]

In Once Upon a Time in Portugal, the past and present of Portugal come together in an unforgettable way. You’ll learn about the ancient Carnival of Caretos, a celebration that feels like it’s straight out of a forgotten time, and discover a compelling theory about the birthplace of Christopher Columbus. The book also gives a fascinating glimpse into the life of the country both in the late 90s and today. The narrative is enriched by the protagonist’s connection to the character from Kloshar, and the two storylines intertwine in a surprising and moving way. It’s a captivating read that will leave you wanting more. If you’re looking for a book that offers both adventure and history, this one is definitely for you!

[Raghu · Rating 5 out of 5]

Once Upon a Time in Portugal is an enchanting journey into the heart of Portugal, where past and present beautifully intertwine. The author takes us through the ancient Carnival of Caretos, describing the masks with such vivid detail that you can almost feel their eerie power and mystique. But the book is not only about traditions. It also dives deep into the theory surrounding Christopher Columbus’s origins, giving us a fascinating perspective on his possible birthplace. The story masterfully shifts between life in Portugal today and in the late 90s, with a narrative thread that brings a character from Kloshar back into the fold. If you're drawn to history, culture, and personal discovery, this book is a must-read.

[Surbhi · Rating 5 out of 5]

Dimesh, a Russian who is a vagabond decides to settle in Portugal, specifically Porto, because it's easy for freelancers to get residency. Even though he's a vagabond, a free spirit who doesn't like being tied down one place but something he finds appealing about Porto. I liked how he explained to Krista the difference between a vagabond and a traveller by saying that traveller looks for going 'home' once they're done with the destination but vagabond doesn't because they don't really have one. Their home is wherever they are.

Authors detailed description of Portugal will transport you to the streets of Portugal.

[Shubhadarshani · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book isn't just about Dimesh's travels, it really digs into the heart of Portugal. Dimesh is a Russian nomad who has traveled to many places, including Serbia, France, Germany, and now Portugal.

Author describes Portugal in depth. I liked how he described welcoming and helping nature of Portuguese people. People who welcomed him with open arms. One of the most amazing things Dimesh discovers is how important football is in Portugal. It's more than just a game; it's a huge passion that unites everyone. It's almost like a second religion.

You'll get to know a lot of new things about Portugal in this book. After reading this book, Portugal will remain in your heart for long.

[Christopher · Rating 5 out of 5]

The Fascinating book Once Upon a Time in Portugal delves into the author's life as a photojournalist who opts to focus on Portugal's serene beauty rather than the busy schedule of frequent travel. Tales of cultural and personal discoveries are interwoven with the writer's intelligent words to create a truly immersive experience. Most impressive to me was how the book explored the ideas of finding meaning and a home in everyday circumstances. You feel as though you are walking through Porto with the author because of the author's detailed descriptions. It's a beautiful reminder that leading a happy, peaceful life may be achieved by both living in the present and obtaining your goals.

[Melissa Johnson · Rating 5 out of 5]

The amazing novel Once Upon a Time in Portugal is the tale of a photojournalist who decides to concentrate on Portugal's serene beauty rather than constantly traveling. You feel like you're on the adventure with the author as they share their cultural and personal discoveries.

I really enjoyed the book's examination of how to find purpose and a sense of belonging in day-to-day existence. You get the impression from the author's thorough descriptions that you are strolling through Porto.

This book serves as a lovely reminder that pleasure is found in both living in the now and pursuing your goals.

[Pranjal · Rating 5 out of 5]

Dmitry Berkut has a way of making you feel as though you’re sitting beside him, watching the sun set over the Atlantic while he shares his thoughts on life. His essay on Portuguese Christmas traditions was unexpectedly touching—it brought me back to the simplicity and warmth of my own childhood holidays, even though my traditions are completely different. And then there are the more challenging topics he addresses, like the realities of prostitution or the cultural differences that make communication so tricky. It’s a book that balances lightness with depth, beauty with reality, and leaves you with a sense of gratitude for having experienced it.

[Ajay · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is unlike anything I’ve read before. Berkut doesn’t just write about Portugal; he invites you into a deeply intimate conversation about life itself. I found the chapter on digital nomads particularly interesting—it’s not just about the logistics of remote work but the emotional toll and the fleeting nature of relationships when you’re constantly moving. And then there’s his humor—subtle, dry, and perfectly placed, like in his observations about student festivals in Porto. This isn’t a book you rush through; it’s one you savor, like a good glass of port wine, letting the layers of meaning unfold long after you’ve closed it. I couldn’t recommend it more highly!

[Lucky · Rating 5 out of 5]

I’ve read a lot of travel books, but none have made me feel this way. Berkut doesn’t just describe places; he captures their soul. His chapter on the Douro Valley was breathtaking—I could almost feel the warmth of the sun on the vineyards and taste the port wine he so lovingly describes. But what makes this book truly special is the way it weaves these external experiences with internal reflections. The result is something much richer than a simple narrative—it’s an exploration of what it means to live fully and deeply. If you’re looking for something both inspiring and grounding, you won’t be disappointed.

[Yati · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is unlike anything I’ve read before. Berkut doesn’t just write about Portugal; he invites you into a deeply intimate conversation about life itself. I found the chapter on digital nomads particularly interesting—it’s not just about the logistics of remote work but the emotional toll and the fleeting nature of relationships when you’re constantly moving. And then there’s his humor—subtle, dry, and perfectly placed, like in his observations about student festivals in Porto. This isn’t a book you rush through; it’s one you savor, like a good glass of port wine, letting the layers of meaning unfold long after you’ve closed it. I couldn’t recommend it more highly!

[Arihant Kashyap · Rating 5 out of 5]

I didn’t expect to be so captivated by this book. It feels like you’re stepping into the mind of a friend who’s inviting you to see Portugal not through glossy tourist brochures but through the eyes of someone living and breathing its rhythm. Dmitry Berkut’s chapter on saudade—a concept I’d heard of but never fully understood—was absolutely stunning. He doesn’t just explain it; he makes you feel it. And the way he intertwines that with his personal search for meaning makes the book feel like a mirror for your own thoughts. This isn’t just a story about Portugal; it’s a deeply human reflection on belonging, purpose, and the unexpected beauty of life.