The longtime CEO of Coach shares stories and strategies behind the company's stunning growth from a $6 million business to a $5 billion global brand.
Lew Frankfort knew nothing about fashion when he became assistant to the founder of Coach. By the time he left, Frankfort had spent 29 years as CEO, growing Coach from a scrappy maker of leather bags with a small cult following to a beloved lifestyle brand. Along the way, Coach created a new market segment—accessible luxury—that redefined an industry. In Bag Man, Frankfort explains how the son of a Bronx policeman, after working in city government, built a business that challenged conventions, grew it 1000%, and became recognized as one of the world's best CEOs.
Bag Man offers lessons from both achievements and missteps as Coach reinvented itself over decades. Throughout, Frankfort considers a more personal aspect of leadership—how the double-edged sword of fear and drive can lead to success but also take a toll. He shares his struggles with a haunting fear of failure, including how it drove an obsession with consumer insights that made Coach unique in the industry.
Summing up Coach's philosophy in three words—"magic plus logic"—Bag Man shows how blending creativity and data-driven discipline can produce sustainable, profitable growth, helping
Design and market products people loveBuild a roster of talent and a performance-driven cultureDrive strategies that pair a brand's unique value with the right market opportunitiesScale the business to achieve next-level organic growthOperate as a respected public company
A riveting, candid business memoir, Bag Man traces an extraordinary leadership journey that built a legacy brand.
Book review Title: Bag Man: The Story Behind the Improbable Rise of Coach Author : Lew Frankfort Rating : ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Lew Frankfort, the former CEO of Coach, tells the story of how a man who didn’t even own a leather bag — and knew nothing about fashion — eventually led one of the biggest accessible luxury brands in the world.
I love how honest he is. He openly admits he knew very little about the fashion industry. But he had an MBA, a strong business mind, and the ability to build the right team. Under his leadership, Coach grew from a USD 6 million leather shop into a multi-billion dollar company.
One part that really stood out to me: before his interview, he didn’t study Coach’s competitors. Instead, he went to customers and retailers and asked what they truly thought of Coach bags. He researched humans, not the competition. Genius.
In short, this book felt real. The author shares decisions, steps and his vision: making luxury affordable without compromising quality.
I loved this book — go read it and experience the journey of how Coach became a USD 20 billion brand under Lew Frankfort. Real brand building isn’t overnight — it’s decades of consistency.
Thank you @timesreads & @putrifariza for the wonderful review copy.
Yes, yes, yes! I devoured this book! I loved the details of how he progressed step by step. It was inspiring to see someone come from a completely different industry and succeed in the fashion space. This one’s a must read.
A triumph in story telling! Bag Man is the not so ordinary tale of two American icons, Coach and Lew Frankfort. It’s a captivating and fun story, but also a case study in leadership, brand building and core family values. It puts you in Lew’s shoes and can feel the passion and rigor and personal vulnerabilities that drove it all to work. The fashion landscape is fickle and sometimes grueling — Lew had the courage to pivot and alter the destiny of his company many times. But you’ll learn that he never compromised on core principles of preparation, creative thinking and trusting his gift of EQ. Bag Man is a master class in both business and the human endeavor. Lew’s original recruiting process alone, expertly detailed in the memoir, should be ‘the template’ for hiring key talent in any corporate or financial organization.
This is probably the best business book I’ve ever had the pleasure of reading. While acknowledging my inherent bias (the Coach product is one I adore), I’ve rarely gleaned as many insights on management deliberation and creative thinking in business as what I have through my time with this book. If you have a friend who’s starting a business or a new management role, this is the book you should gift them.
There are some really interesting concepts for both business and life in here. I was worried it would be too business-y but it was well done. Makes me want to go buy a Coach.... or more so, thrift a vintage one.
Magic Plus Logic: The Making of a Modern Luxury Icon
'Bag Man' is a provocative parallel journey between a man and the company he helped grow for 35 years, 29 of which were spent as CEO. The man is Lew Frankfort and the company is Coach, a global luxury powerhouse based in New York City that sells high-quality yet practical accessories beyond the leather goods and handbags that it initially became famous for. Under Frankfort's tenure, the brand went from a $6-million-a-year company to a multi-billion-dollar behemoth. What surprised me was that the book blended aspects of narrative, biography, and introspection, all at the same time while remaining engaging. For a sort of autobiography—as you can loosely classify this—it is as refreshing as it is surprising.
While the man and the company is intermeshed in the actual composition of the text, I will comment on both separately.
The interpersonal journey of the 'Bag Man', Lew Frankfort - The author is confident, yet insecure, driven, yet fearful. From early childhood in the Bronx to Hunter College for his undergraduate degree, and later Columbia Business School for his Master’s, his childhood struggles and achievements are reflected upon. Early struggles with a speech impediment and a harsh remonstration of a junior high school guidance counselor left lasting doubts in the young man. Self-doubt and fear of failure are things that linger in many leaders, and the author was no exception. The author endured years of recurring bad dreams that were tied to his career and the obligations that came along with it. In those nightmares, he would commute to an investor's meeting in Manhattan and realize that he was missing his shoes, among other manifestations.
The Coach company and its path to success: Before Coach, Lew had formative experiences working in government in the New York Municipal Services Administration then the Agency for Child Development (ACD). He credits his experiences with leadership, hard choices and dealing with a bureaucracy partly for what was to come later at Coach. But he also acknowledged that in the private sector, working at an accessories company where you find ways to sell people something they don't really need is much different than working in the public sector in the service of people. The first 6 years in Coach were spent under its founder, Miles Cahn. In 1985, Coach was purchased by Sara Lee, which held the company until it went public at the end of the millennium. During Frankfort's tenure, the fortune of Coach had skyrocketed. We hear all the success stories, from new lines, great hires, store buildouts and renovations, international expansion in Japan, the outperformance of its stock, and the happiness of it's customers. But we also hear the failures and struggles. Beyond the CEO's internal afflictions, there were failed partnerships, internal struggles with their parent company, sudden death of an esteemed colleague, lack of relevancy with a younger audience, stale product lines, a failed acquisition and a failed internal brand among others. The result nonetheless is out there for everyone to see: prestige without pretension and the democratization of luxury.
From an execution standpoint, the book is excellent. The interspersed nature of the text—introspective reflection, historical narrative, and business strategy—did not make the writing messy or disjointed; rather, it produced a scintillating page-turner. In my opinion, when it comes to a biography, it's important to capture the feelings and ambiance of the time period with at least a slight regurgitation of the history. Even to a reader that's well studied in the given area, t makes a book less academic and more engaging. In the undertaking of an autobiography, this is not necessary but does make the text more engaging, which I'd imagine is more cumbersome. The blending of 'magic plus logic' was sprinkled throughout. Initially, a reader can possibly get turned off by the phrase when introduced to it in the prologue. The perception can be that it's a trite coinage that was retroactively applied to explain past successes that were in fact better described by the phenomenon of 'survivorship bias'. That notion is dispelled throughout the book as 'magic plus logic' was actually something the author had lived by, and used publicly while the chief executive of Coach. It's where curiosity and imagination marry rigor and analytical thinking. Whatever you may think of it, it stood the test of time atop one of the great American success stories. As the author said, "Failure is so much easier than success, especially when you sell discretionary products.".
Why would this read be valuable to a businessperson? While it's true most people will never be or have the opportunity to be in a position like the author, there are plenty of things that can be synthesized and utilized for one's own doings. Broadly speaking, the business dealings in Coach were put forth with candor and lucidity. At the very least, I could imagine it being of intellectual interest to any reader as to what are some of the inner workings of one of the largest public companies in the world, from the executive level. What are the mistakes and successes, and the psychology behind them. A lot of business strategy was divulged, for example, the team's philosophical playbook for whether or how to extend a brand. Many of these insights are interesting, if not practical. Furthermore, the intrapersonal musings of the author is something many can relate to, whether they are an executive of a large company, an employer of a 15-person boutique, or an ambitious upstart dealing with their own personal demons. Self-help business books are often mush, money-grab ploys by sophisticated marketing "gurus" with spurious claims that are not borne out of wisdom, but the repulsive recursion of getting wealthy by selling get-rich-quick advice to the shortcut-prone fragility of the human psyche. Motivation as a discipline can often, and does often, gloss over the stark reality that comes concomitant with success in the workplace. Refreshingly, this book is an honest recounting of his life and that of the company he held dear for so many years. Opinions after a lifetime of business can be construed as wisdom rather than a veil for avarice, and of course, as the former CEO of one of the best-performing public stocks of the early 2000s, we can venture to guess that the author does not have snake oil to sell you.
Bag Man is an engaging, funny, human story told by Lew Frankfort, the CEO emeritus of Coach brands. Released 14th Oct 2025 by the Harvard Business Review Press, it's 304 pages and is available in hardcover, audio, and ebook formats. It's worth noting that the ebook format has a handy interactive table of contents as well as interactive links and references throughout.
For anyone who loves solid quality leather goods, especially purses and accessories, Coach immediately brings to mind affordable (as close to luxury as most Americans ever get) quality. From late boomer-gen through millenials, Coach has been the dream for most American high school girls and women a perennial favorite.
Mr. Frankfort has a brash inimitable solid New Yorker style and attitude and it's by turns touching, nostalgic, and exciting. He took the helm of a struggling business and helped guide it into the 21st century multi-billion dollar entity it is today.
He has an entirely "everyman" pragmatic attitude and is surprisingly egalitarian (for a top-echelon executive). He doesn't seem removed from the realities of everyday life, and apparently never divorced himself from growing up in a blue-collar family, the son of a cop in New York. He had early experience in the public service sector, and never lost that solidarity either.
The unabridged audiobook has a run time of 11 hours 57 minutes and is beautifully read by the author himself. He has a wonderful, undiluted, brash Bronx accent which, even if he's mugging it up for the read, is a delightful addition nevertheless. Sound and production quality are high throughout.
Five stars. This would be an excellent choice for public library acquisition, home library, or for loyal fans of the brand. It's a bit of a David vs. Goliath story and the brand's resilience is a bit of a bright spot in an otherwise dystopian current-day.
Disclosure: I received an ARC at no cost from the author/publisher for review purposes.
Bag Man is written by Coach's former CEO, Lew Frankfort, who led the company to international success during the 1990s to 2010s. If you cared one iota about fashion and grew up during this period (as I did), you'll remember how Coach suddenly became THE company to covet for their well-made designs at attainable prices. One thing that didn't cross my mind back then was the behind-the-scenes of a successful brand, how it's built, and the nuances of consumerism. And let's be honest, these days we have a lot more information available to make it easy to form judgement on all billionaires, and this is exactly the thing that makes this book so enjoyable.
Lew's story is one of hard work and humility and relatability. I felt SEEN by the second chapter where Lew discusses his time in city government during the 1970s (which was probably the worst time to be a municipal employee in NYC). Like Lew, I also spent my 20s working for the NYC government, moving up the ranks very quickly as a "young idealist" until I got burnt out. It's also where I noticed that a lot my experience and success as an archivist could be chalked up to "magic plus logic"—a phenomenon I didn't have the words to describe before reading this book.
As someone who just closed out their first year as an independent archivist, I'd recommend this memoir to anyone who's just getting started in business and is looking for inspiration. Seasoned business leaders will also find value for the same reason. And to our fashion historians out there—this one is also for you.
The Story Behind the Improbable Rise of Coach by Lew Frankfort immediately caught my attention. Coach has long been a symbol of quality, craftsmanship, and timeless style, and I’ve always been fascinated by how certain brands manage to thrive despite shifting economies, changing trends, and the test of time.
What stood out most to me in this book is the emphasis on adaptability in business—how staying true to quality and values can be just as important as innovation. Too often, manufacturers chase higher profit margins at the expense of craftsmanship, and we see the results in today’s disposable, short-lived products. Mr. Frankfort’s perspective highlights the importance of understanding what consumers truly value: enduring quality and integrity. The fact that the Japanese hold Coach with such high regard is a testament in itself, as they prioritize quality in every aspect of their life.
His career journey is both inspiring and unconventional, marked by lessons in leadership and resilience. I was deeply impressed by his ability to make bold, strategic decisions that not only strengthened Coach as a brand but also redefined luxury accessibility.
Reading this book felt like gaining rare insight into the mindset of one of the most respected CEOs of our time. It was an honor to learn from his experiences and vision.
Thank you to Lew Frankfort, Harvard Business Review Press, and NetGalley for the ARC.
A few months before reading this book, I ended up becoming obsessed with this girl on YouTube who would restore old Coach bags. It stated my appreciation for both the quality and craftsmanship of a Coach bag. Bag Man furthers this appreciation, this time not through the bags, but on the building of a fashion and accessory empire. The book follows the author and his time as CEO of Coach and how he led and continued to build the brand. Overall, the book was well written and told a truly interesting story that showed Frankfort's strengths and vulnerabilities.
Overall, if you have an interest in fashion or business, I highly recommend giving this book a read.
Thank you to NetGalley and the publisher for a copy of this book in exchange for an honest review
I’m usually a fiction reader but picked this book up because I love Coach bags. This book was everything! I’m not a business person but the insight provided and the eloquent trajectory of Lew’s professional growth as well as Coach’s was inspiring. I loved the commitment to tradition and legacy. I loved how he cared about the people who worked for Coach. His personal struggles were also very relatable and gave a rare look into the toll running a huge company can take on a person. The pictures were my favorite as they gave visuals to his words and gave a nostalgic feelings of the times. I would highly recommend this book and throughly enjoyed it!
không biết dạo này mình mệt hay chơi sách khó mà đọc hơi lâu
có thể k truyền cảm hứng cho mình, nhưng sẽ là vậy với một vài người khác
kinh doanh dù là thời trang đi nữa, thì cuối cùng vẫn có vẻ là hơi khô khan, mệt mỏi, áp lực với mình - Frankfort bị trầm cảm và ung thư dù đã vượt qua được
tác giả (hoặc ghost writer của ông) viết rõ ràng, không khó hiểu
vai trò của sức khỏe, nhất là tâm lý/tinh thần
once again mình lại cảm thấy mình không hợp kinh doanh lắm, có vẻ đứng ở vai tư vấn vẫn hợp hơn
một ai đó yêu thích kinh doanh có thể học hỏi được nhiều thứ cả về thành công, thất bại hay suy sụp của Frankfort
I have no words for this ego trip. Clearly it is hard for some people to get old and become irrelevant.
Coach was a has-been brand going no where. Reed Krakoff single-handedly revitalized the Coach brand through innovative design. This book understates his importance. Without him Coach would be nothing more than Dooney&Burke, an old niche handbag brand loved by your grandmother. To pull the cord on Reed’s namesake brand after less than 2 years, and then blame it on him for not succeeding, is reprehensible.
I borrowed this book from the public library. I was not paid, via a free copy or otherwise, for a 5 star review as were the majority assigning high ratings to this book.
Getting to read about the history of a company I now work for, penned by none other than the man who brought the company to where it is today, makes me feel truly humbled and also proud to be part of a brand with such a rich history. So many of the things mentioned in the book, from products to values to business metrics we measure, are still around today. Honestly so mind-blowing to get the insider's perspective from someone who hasn't just been around the block but basically built the block from scratch, brick by brick. Mad respect for Lew's drive, vision, and commitment to the brand!
This book is a fascinating read if you’re interested in brands and their history (so basically if you’re me). Coach had Lew Frankfort at its helm for decades, and he grew it from a $6 million a year leather bag company from New York into a $5 billion a year accessible luxury brand around the world. He’s very candid in the steps he took and gives a lot of credit to others who played their parts. I think because he was CEO for so long it can sometimes feel a bit like an earnings call and maybe misses some opportunities to tell more novel stories, but overall I enjoyed this book quite a lot.
I was surprised at how much information truly enjoyed reading about Coach's CEO Lew Frankfurt and the growth of Coach. I read a chapter a day and found myself looking forward to reading time each day. The words on the pages were engaging and never boring or dry. This was very well written and opened my eyes to the business world and the insight required and the obstacles they are required to overcome. Without sounding cheesy, this was a good read. #GoodreadsGiveaway
3.5 stars rounded up. This was so much better than I expected, although, I didn’t really know what to expect going in. Lew gave so much background on Coach that I had no idea about. He really showcased how well they take care of their employees. It was well written and super interesting to see how a government employee can succeed in such a vastly different industry!
Thank you to NetGalley, Lew Frankfort, and Harvard Business Review Press for this ARC!
I loved this book! As a Coach fan since the early 1990’s and a retail manager for 32+ years it was so much fun to learn about the history and evolution of Coach. The story is well told and fun to read. If you’re a fan of memoirs and the brand of handbags we’ve all drooled over read this book!!!
An interesting, albeit braggadocios interpretation of the rise of Coach bags. It's irrelevant now...so who cares? Thanks to Goodreads Giveaways for the free advance copy.
The most phenomenal read and journey. Highly recommend this to anyone interested in the human condition, business or mental health… or just someone who wants a really good TRUE story