Като дерматолог, д-р Спиерингс знае колко объркващи са световете на медицината и козметиката. Това я вдъхновява да напише тази настолна книга за здрава и красива кожа. „Уверени в своята кожа“ ще ви помогне да опознаете кожата си отблизо и да научите кои са основните продукти, от които се нуждае тя. Не, околоочният крем не е сред тях! Д-р Спиерингс дава насоки за справяне с най-разпространените проблеми с кожата – акне, розацея, дерматит и мелазма. Споделя ценни съвети за грижа срещу фини линии и бръчки, окосмяване и тъмни кръгове под очите. Специално внимание е обърнато и на единственото доказано работещо средство против бръчки. За да бъде напълно полезна, д-р Спиерингс развенчава дълго насаждани митове за грижа за кожата, сред които използването на серуми, тоник, почистването на кожата, приемът на колаген и много други. Козметичната индустрия се оценява на близо 300 милиарда долара и печели от това да се чувствате несигурни в красотата си. Опознайте своята кожа, научете как да се грижите за нея и бъдете уверени в себе си!
Д-р Наталия Спиерингс е консултант дерматолог и магистър по естетична медицина. Преминала е обучение по дерматологична и Mohs-микрографска хирургия в Royal Victoria Infirmary, Нюкасъл, със специалност диагностика и лечение на рак на кожата, както и кожна хирургия. Като консултант дерматолог се старае да дава ясна, доказана и достъпна информация на своите пациенти.
Dr Spierings is a global leading dermatologist who trained as a Consultant Dermatologist in London with a sub-speciality fellowship training in Mohs Micrographic and Dermatologic Surgery at the Royal Victoria infirmary in Newcastle. She holds a Master's Degree in Aesthetic Medicine from the University of London.
GMC NUMBER: 7018298
MEDICAL TRAINING: St. George’s, University of London
DERMATOLOGY TRAINING: St. George’s, University of London Entered the Dermatology Specialist Register in August 2016
MOHS MICROGRAPHIC & DERMATOLOGICAL SURGERY FELLOWSHIP TRAINING: Royal Victoria Infirmary, Newcastle
Skincare is one of those industries that thrive on women’s insecurities. As their primary target audience, we are reminded daily that our worth lies in the absence of wrinkles, acne, and dull skin.
However, most skincare products are more successful in creating insecurities than fixing them. As the author points out, the beauty industry is mostly supported by the maximisation of profits, clever marketing, and biased research. As a doctor, she invites us to look at skincare from a down-to-earth perspective—what does science really support?
As it turns out, social media is filled with myths and lies about skincare, propagated mainly by influencers who earn a great deal from it. No one needs a 10-step routine or the LED light face mask for 300 euros. Keeping our skin healthy is easier than we are pushed to believe.
Overall, the book is heavy for someone who has no knowledge of medical terms regarding skin. However, I found it deeply useful and reassuring—in the surplus of information about the newest skincare tricks, I lean on science and doctors who keep their integrity above profits.
Тотално промени гледната ми точка за козметичната индустрия, продуктите, които си купувам, стъпките в рутината ми и разбирането ми за различните съставки. Ежедневно сме заливани от информация, свързана с грижата за кожата, която по никакъв начин не е базирана на достатъчно добри научни проучвания и аз лично прекалено много пъти съм си патила заради това.
Пускам тази книга да обикаля приятелките ми, защото вярвам, че всяка жена, която си пада по козметика, трябва да я прочете. Смятам да се погрижа да запозная и по-малката ми сестра с информацията, защото си спомням какви глупости си слагах на кожата точно в тийнейджърските години…
If you feel overwhelmed and tired of the skincare industry this is the book for you! Dr. Natalia has written this book in hopes of helping us see that great skin is due to consistency and not necessarily quantity! Not only she takes the pressure off but explains what and how things affect your skin and the solutions that have science to back them up! A reminder that less is more! Thoroughly enjoyed it and recommend 100%.
No nonsense, evidence based, very helpful and easy to understand book that cuts through all the noise in cosmetic dermatology. And boy is there a lot of noise with so much money to be made. I would never take advice from a fellow RD who does brand partnerships, works for a formula company or sells supplements so why have I allowed myself to be influenced by dermatologists on YouTube and IG who do sponsored posts, brand partnerships, and sell skincare? Glad I read this book. Better late than never, eh?
Полезна информация за устройството на кожата, за продуктите и процедурите, които наистина вършат работа, и за всичко, което не ни е нужно. Базирана на научни доказателства и клиничния опит на авторката. Бих препоръчала.
1. Ageing in light skinned people typically manifests as thread veins, fine lines and enlarged pores (p48).
2. 90% of extrinsic signs of ageing are due to the sun. Sunscreen effectively reduces this risk. You need to apply 1/2 a teaspoon to the face, neck and ears for adequate absorption (p88). Generally protection maintains over the course of a day as an office worker. Sunscreen is the best skin product you can use to treat photoageing.
3. If you spend the majority of your time indoors during peak UV periods (e.g. typically 10am - 3pm) then there is little benefit in applying chemical sunscreen, and you do not need to apply it (p 96).
4. As a starting point, most products are marketing gimmicks and unlikely to provide any benefit. Rarely are there high quality trials of these drugs proving their efficacy over placebo (multiple references).
5. Without any dispute whatsoever, the most effective topical treatment (and, indeed, basically the only) for fine lines and smoothness is tretinoin. It should be applied daily for at least three months, preferably 1 year or more. That said, it is unlikely to completely reverse photoageing, but may significantly ameliorate it. Methods for reducing retinoids dermatitis include low dose (0.025%), intermittent use, and application after a heavy moisteriser. (p122-125, 233). Otherwise, the only other treatment for fine lines and rinkles is Botox (p239).
6. There are no “direct” treatments for enlarged pores. Your best bet is to try and reduce oil secretion contributing to the pores (e.g. oral isotretinoin or Botox) or generally improving skin matrix (e.g. tretinoin or to a lesser extent, CO2 fractional ablative laser). (p199).
Some useful insights for someone suffering from diagnosed sebh. dermatitis, psoriasis, and rosacea:
1. Flaky skin and dry skin are synonymous (p40).
2. Cleansers are not particularly important, you could get away with cold water. If using a cleanser, an oil-based one apply very sparingly (a few drops) with cold water.
3. There is no need to use a moisturiser on normal skin. The main determinant of a quality moisteriser is its degree of greasiness and being oil-based. As a consequence, a very effective moisturiser is Vaseline (p80).
4. You never need to exfoliate your skin (p98).
5. There is insufficient evidence supporting the use of Niacinimide (p156). I find this very surprising and intend to examine further.
6. It is unclear what causes rosacea - sunlight damage and genetics seem to play a part. It is perhaps easiest described as ‘hyperactive skin’, with ‘ongoing, persistent background redness to the face’. It is very difficult to treat. The mainstay is to avoid triggers, which are wide ranging from hot drinks, stress to sunlight. Treatments include brimonidine, laser, blood pressure medication and neutroxin (e.g Botox) injection. (P203-207).
7. You can use tretinoin with rosacea though due to the side effect of tretinoin titration is needed, usually requiring a smaller dose than with the general population. You can not use tretinoin until rosacea is under control. (p206).
8. Suggested treatment for sebh. demer is Tacrolimus (immunosuppressant).
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
Very science heavy (which is a good thing!) so I had to reread some parts in order to understand properly. I learned a lot & hopefully this knowledge will prevent me from spending money on useless products!
Really great book on skincare! It's very science based and her recommendation for a skincare routine is very simple, which is very antithetical to the mainstream skincare industry. I very much appreciated that. Highly recommended, especially if you feel confused or lost by all of the recommendations people have for different products.
Beauty is an ugly industry. Big skincare trivialises insecurities born from a real medical issue‒skin health‒and frames them as purely cosmetic. Their solution? Consume more. Cosmetics companies, skincare influencers, and even many dermatologists (apparently not even a protected legal term in the UK) are all among the complicit. It’s hard to know what’s best for your health amid this polluted information environment. Skintelligent provides clarity, offering a level-headed explanation of how the skin works, why things go wrong, and what to do about it.
The book is front-loaded with technical explanations of how the skin works. This won’t be for everyone—it’s slow going without some biological background knowledge—but I think it’s ultimately necessary to make the later arguments as to why most skincare products don’t work.
Surprisingly few skincare ingredients and practices survive scientific scrutiny. Even the effects of cultured favourites like hyaluronic acid (too large to be absorbed) or niacinamide (limited supporting evidence) turn out to be underwhelming. What’s left is a minimalist approach. Here’s an example routine: AM: - Sunscreen: SPF30 or higher, preferably; slight preference for mineral over chemical. Only needed if you’re going outside. PM: - Oily cleanser (oil is gentle on the skin barrier): only needed if wearing sunscreen or makeup. - Vaseline as a moisturiser. - Perhaps prescription tretinoin, if acne or fine lines are a concern.
It’s refreshing to see good science in a pop-science book. Too many books claim to be evidence-based but lean on single studies to make their point—anything can be argued that way. Skintelligent does it properly: citing systematic reviews, large sample sizes, and making sure the data actually supports the conclusions. This is how science writing should be done.
The book makes a strong case that the results of a skincare routine should be judged over months, not days. So while it’s too soon to say whether the changes I’ve made as a result of reading this are working, I feel more confident in them than anything I’ve tried before. What I can say now is that the quality of the scientific argumentation is excellent, and anyone who’s been even slightly overwhelmed by the skincare industry will get a lot out of this book.
I get the bigger points of Dr Natalia Spierings critique of "Big Skincare". But I'm a bit on the fence here - she's a private consultant dermatologist who operates out of privileged locales (London and Dubai) - she's advocating (a bit repetitively) the use of Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline) --- a by-product of "Big Oil" as the best moisturiser (her words not mine)...she claims Retinol/Niacinamide/Vit C are useless ... But she offers Botox because it is "effective"? (As an anti-aging strategy)...I mean how many of us can afford Botox and why should we believe the advice of a Dubai-based derm (with celebrity clients) who has had Botox herself over any other advice (from estheticians, NHS doctors/derms/Skincare YouTubers). I don't know...the idea that Vaseline and Botox (and prescription Tretinoin, which isn't even available in my country) are the only things that actually work sounds a bit hollow coming from a dermatologist who charges 375 pounds for a 15 minute consultation!!!!! I'm a woman of colour and I'm quite sure Vaseline and Tret both made my skin incredibly yucky - I was able to treat my acne virtually for free by my community GP. And she absolutely forbid me from using petroleum jelly on my face!! My regime is neither Vaseline, nor Tret, nor Botox. Dr Natalia should examine carefully her own dubious ethics and double standards.
The book is interesting but ultimately and aggressively flawed...Dr Natalia tries too hard to prove that her position is the most ethical and just position and her dermatology advice the most cost-effective and time-effective.
Its simply not true (unless you consider Botox a viable option to your nightly routine and ritual).
I got this book right after reading another skincare science-based book. Honestly, this is probably the best skincare book I have ever read. I might be biased as I have been attracted to the "less is more" approach to skincare for most of my adult life. I personally love to experiment with new skincare products, but I always wondered if they weren't doing much and I was just riding the hype train. I think, for some, the approach in this book might be a bit radical, but the idea that there are skin diseases that need to be treated by a dermatologist, and not with a new HA serum, makes the most sense to me.
This book reassured me that there is nothing wrong with me, with the way I look at the skincare industry, and that a lot of stuff simply doesn't work at all. But of course, it's going to be a long journey now trying to implement (rather, remove useless products) from my routine and see how my skin (and hopefully life) changes. I'm giving focus to life changes, as I feel all this skincare hype is contributing to stress and anxiety; all the skincare ads, social media, and stereotypes are just here to make us more vulnerable and insecure to sell us new products we don't need. But it's of course just my opinion; you do you.
i became a little obsessed with skincase right after i turned twenty five and the whole world told me my body would stop producing collagen. when trying to find information about it i was boomed with beauty enthusiasts or other professionals who gave a very simplistic explanation on products they were recommending (or kpop idols products investigations lol). finding a more objetive point of view was hard but i finally came up with some helpful material so thank you natalia spierings!!! very well explanation on the biology and function of skin, every young woman should have access to this information. i can now pick products based on what my skin needs and what i like without feeling insecure. i can say out loud i don´t need korean products but i will still buy their sheet masks tho i like them.
My skincare routine is now based on this book. It’s honest, straight to the point, and research/evidence-based. If you’re using a dozen skincare products or are someone like me who gets easily sold by brands using shiny packaging and strategically used words like non-comedogenic, blemish-free, pore cleansing, rejuvenating, anti-aging, hydrating, plumping, etc then I highly recommend using this book to understand your skin and which products are actually proven to help it and keep it healthy. You’ll also understand how the skincare companies work to lure you into buying products you don’t really need.
A book about skin made easy. There is so much choice out there and all brands try to up each other with benefits and reasons why their product is worth buying. I have tried many of these in a desperate attempt to fix my skin. After over 3y of trial and error and a lot of money spent I am happy to say that Dr Natalia helped me get the skin I was after. And less is more, tested and proved on me. I can finally go outside without makeup. Very grateful.
The book is worth reading but if you have issues is worth booking an appointment.
“Skintelligent” is a must-read for anyone passionate about skincare and its market. It radically transformed my understanding, challenging many misconceptions I had. The book delves into technical aspects at times, yet the author excels in breaking down complex ideas into easily digestible concepts. Highly recommended for a deeper insight into the world of skincare.
Lovely informative book! Science based examination of what's actually effective skincare vs. marketing from cosmetic companies. Am I sad to read all of the ingredients in my products are pretty useless & unnecessary (ceramides, SA, Vitamin C...)? Yes. Am I happy to read the best skin care routine is the simple one that I have been doing? Yes!
This book has helped me to understand my skin and the products we really need (or don't need!).
I have found it difficult over the years to navigate information about skincare, but this book has summarised the evidence clearly and showed me how less is best, and to keep things simple.
Sakyčiau šita knyga man buvo gera investicija. Sutaupysiu ant kosmetikos produktų, kurie vis tiek neveikia taip, kaip skelbia jų reklamos/etiketės, pasak šios dermatologės, ir jos cituojamų mokslinių šaltinių (labai patiko, kad prieš cituodama dar pasižiūrėjo cituojamų mokslinių tyrimų metodologiją). Ir čia, taip sakant, "less is more".
Would highly recommend this book to anyone interested in skincare!! Skintelligent is science heavy book written by a doctor that completely opened my eyes that everything I thought I knew about skincare was WRONG!
Everything we’re taught about skincare is through the lens of capitalism not science, so we buy more products, spend more money on things we don’t actually need or work. LESS IS TRULY MORE!!!
Sun damage is the #1 cause of most skin issues, wear SPF!! Especially for someone like me that struggles with hyper reactive, red, sun damaged, sensitive skin, just wear spf, retinol, and Vaseline. That’s it, stop wasting money on products that have no peer reviewed, science based evidence to do anything beneficial for your skin!
Skincare is a scam, but this book was truly life changing!