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中華料理的世界史:從小籠包、海南雞飯到唐人街雜碎,跨越民族國界的澎湃美食之旅
岩間一弘
,
陳嫻若
(translator)
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品中餐之形,嘗異國之味,舌尖上的全球史豪華美饌
在地與正宗的美味對決!
牛肉麵、酸菜魚、肉骨茶、拉麵、河粉、椰漿飯……
是我的中式美食?還是你的異國料理?
挑戰飲食民族主義,剖析世界與中國菜的距離。
料理不只是文化底蘊,更是國族想像的一環。
20世紀,中式飲食文化飄洋過海,在星馬等地開花結果,在英屬香港和日治台灣殖民地獨立發展,更進一步傳入亞洲及歐美各國。中菜在百年間遍布全世界,化作各式佳餚,廣受各地人群喜愛。
然而,這並不是一個如你想像、宏揚民族文化的復興故事。當中菜在世界各地大放異彩,中國這個傳統國家卻正不像衰落與混亂。而且不僅是中國人,接受並吸納中式料理的日本、韓國甚至印度人,都為中菜的傳播和擴散貢獻了一己之力。
為了克服飲食民族主義偏見,飲食史專家岩間一弘爬梳大量資料,還原近代中菜的傳播過程,指出中國菜最鮮明的特點是在許多國家實現在地化,並深入各地人們飲食,甚至成為所在國度的「國菜」,超越了外國菜或民族菜的範疇。此間民族國家的成立,深刻改變了亞洲料理和飲食文化。
從近年蔚為風潮的全球史出發,聚焦於國家建設與民族主義,本書為我們畫出了一幅中式佳餚餐
729 pages, Kindle Edition
Published January 23, 2025
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岩間一弘
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