The Métro subway system of Paris continually carries residents, commuters, tourists, travelers, and visitors beneath the streets of the French capital – 4 million people per day, 1.5 billion per year. The Art Nouveau style of a number of the Métropolitain station entrances reinforces the visitor’s sense that in Paris, everything is a work of art. The Métro is a vast circulatory system for the life of Paris; and for Lorànt Deutsch, the Métro is at the very heart of the city.
Deutsch, an actor with extensive credits in French theatre, cinema, and television, adopts in Metronome a novel strategy for narrating the life and history of La Ville Lumière, the City of Light. The book’s subtitle in its English translation is A History of Paris from the Underground Up; and each chapter of this 21-chapter book is linked not only with a specific century, but also with a specific Métro station, starting with the Parisii (the Celtic tribal nation that gave the city its name), on what is now the Île de la Cité in the first century A.D., and proceeding all the way forward to the Grande Arche of La Défense here in the 21st century.
For instance, the chapter on the 4th century A.D. takes its title from the Saint-Martin Métro station, and also has the title “Paris, Imperial Residence.” This chapter focuses on how the area along rue Saint-Martin was once the residence of the Roman emperor Julian. The future emperor began living in the city then known as Lutetia from January of 358 A.D., and “Not only was Julian the first lover of Paris, he was its first bard” (p. 47), writing rapturously about the beauty of the Île de la Cité and the pure waters of the Seine River. Deutsch points out that one can’t visit the palace where Julian resided – “Of the actual residence, nothing remains” – but adds that “the location has remained a palace across the centuries. Today it is the location of the city’s Palais de Justice” (p. 50).
Similarly, the seventh-century chapter focuses on the Saint-Germain-des-Prés Métro station and bears the title “From One Abbey Emerges Another.” The focal character here is the Frankish king Dagobert I, who lived from 603-639 A.D. The deeply religious Dagobert believed that Saint Denis had promised to protect him through life in return for the construction of a sumptuous tomb, and therefore built a richly appointed reliquary for Saint Denis in the church that bears his name. When Dagobert was dying, at the age of 35, he asked to be buried at Saint Denis, becoming the first Frankish king to be interred there.
And, in a good example of Deutsch’s fondness for vivid and unusual stories of Paris life, the author of Metronome shows the unusual way in which 13th-century monks chose to honor, in sculptural form, the 7th-century king who had founded the church and made it magnificent, but who was also notorious for his womanizing ways:
The soul of the king, pictured as a naked child with a crown, is carried off to hell in the clutches of demons. Happily, Saint Denis, Saint Martin, and Saint Maurice succeed in delivering his soul, take him to heaven, and gain him admission into paradise. The message is clear: Dagobert deserved to go to hell, and only the intercession of the saints miraculously prevented this. (p. 102).
Deutsch lets the reader know that one can still see this “rather peculiar tomb” in Saint Denis Church today; and it is interesting to wonder what the Frankish king would think of this odd tribute. Perhaps he would simply toss off a glass of Champagne, have a good laugh over it, and send for one of his mistresses.
Paris’s history is full of examples of historical irony, as demonstrated by Chapter 11, “The Millennium Myth,” with its focus on the 11th century and the Arts et Métiers Métro station. Deutsch explains that “Until the Revolution, this stop is where the Saint-Martin-des-Champs priory had stood…on the very spot where Saint Martin had kissed and cured a leper” (p. 153). Historical myth-making to the contrary, the year 1000 A.D. was evidently not a time of end-of-the-world hysteria; rather, it was a time whose deeply religious people wanted “to purge the Church of its abuses and rediscover the way to God” (p. 154). The construction of Saint-Martin-des-Champs was part of that impulse.
But revolutions have a way of changing things; and 700 years later, “During the Revolution, the priory was turned into the Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers, which visitors can still find at 292 Rue Saint-Martin” (p. 164). The original builders of the priory might not be amused that their sacred and religious building is now the Musée des Arts et Métiers, with its thoroughly secular focus on science and technology; but Deutsch seems thoroughly amused by the manner in which life in Paris always takes on a trajectory of its own, no matter the agenda of the builder of any particular building.
Yet things get much more grim, and anything but amusing, in the chapter on the 14th century and the Hôtel de Ville stop. This, the site of Paris’s City Hall, is associated with the gruesome violence that King Philippe V, or “Philippe the Fair,” perpetrated against the Knights Templars because he envied their wealth and their independence. On Friday, October 13, 1307 – the original Friday the 13th – Philippe’s soldiers surrounded the Templars in their Paris headquarters, the Temple enclosure, and compelled them to surrender.
Tortured into giving false confessions, the Templars recanted at their sentencing before Notre Dame, and their leader, Jacques de Molay, was sentenced to be burned alive. All de Molay asked was that he be turned to face Notre Dame Cathedral before the fires were lit, so that he could die looking upon something holy and sanctified. The execution took place "in what is today Vert-Galam Square, meaning the eastern point of today’s Île" [de la Cité], and the condemned de Molay declared that “misery will visit those who have wrongly condemned us”; and as Deutsch notes, “Some believe the curse was effective” (p. 205). The remainder of the century that historian Barbara Tuchman calls “the calamitous 14th century” gave Paris, and France, the Hundred Years’ War and the Black Death.
And Chapter 17 (“Invalides”) shows how a trip to the great military hospital of Les Invalides, opened in 1674 during the reign of the “Sun King” Louis XIV, shows the modern visitor how a home for the French nation’s wounded war veterans was at the same time a way for Louis XIV to indulge his perpetual penchant for self-glorification:
Today, after plunging through the cour d’honneur you are immediately plunged into the middle of these men destroyed by war, as the interior has on the whole been remarkably well preserved: the staircase, beams, and corridors remain as they were at the end of the seventeenth century. On the ground floor were the refectories for the wounded soldiers, as well as their dormitories. Today the refectories house the Museum of the Army, but one can still make out in its vast proportions a sense of the original purpose, while admiring the frescoes glorifying Louis XIV’s military victories. (p. 253)
Deutsch is methodically fair in devoting equal time and space to each century of Paris’s history. Consequently, if you are strongly interested in Paris’s 18th-century history of la Révolution française, or the turmoil of Napoleonic times, or the tragedy of the two World Wars, then you may be somewhat frustrated to observe that Chapter 18 (“Bastille”), Chapter 19 (“République”), and Chapter 20 (“Champs-Élysées-Clemenceau”) are no longer than the earlier chapters dealing with Franks and Merovingians and Capetians. But perhaps Deutsch wants to emphasize that, as far as he’s concerned, all the chapters of Paris’s history are equally important for anyone wanting to understand the life of this great city.
The book is well-suited for Paris visitors, with maps, sidebars, and photographs that complement well the main line of the book’s text and take one, step by step, to different landmarks of Paris’s history. Perhaps it is for that reason that, when my wife and I made our most recent visit to Paris, I noticed so many people near Métro stations holding a copy of Metronome. (A DVD adaptation of the book was also prominently on display in many Paris gift shops.) While the subtitle for the English translation is suitable, I rather prefer the book’s original French subtitle -- L'histoire de France au rythme du métro parisien. It is indeed a history not just of Paris, but of all of France, set to the rhythm of the Paris Métro.
I found Metronome not in Paris, but rather at Flyleaf Books, a great independent bookstore in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, while preparing for a trip from Raleigh-Durham to Paris. And on this Bastille Day, I consider what fun it would be to take three weeks, travel each day to a different station of the Métropolitain, and explore a different Paris neighborhood with Deutsch’s pleasant and diverting book in hand. Un beau jour, peut-être. One fine day, perhaps…