"I realized focusing on the big picture was holding me back. I had to concentrate on what I was doing every second and keep in mind that as long as there was time on the clock, I still had a chance."
Written chronologically from his start in Cocoa Beach, FL, to his rise as one of the top professional surfers in the world, Kelly Slater's autobiography gives a behind-the-curtain look at how he came to be the surfer he's known as today. He takes us back to his grom days surfing contests with less than ideal conditions. He shares stories of his difficult family life. He talks about struggling to make and keep money, his rocky relationships, and rivalries. And somehow through it all, he becomes an 11-time world champion.
The phrase "no guts, no glory" comes to mind. Great athletes are willing to take crazy risks to reap the rewards. Reading through some of these contest stories and the level that Slater pushed himself makes him, in my opinion, one of the greats. He also challenged the old school surfing styles, which, I think, probably pissed off a lot of OGs. But he saw the possibility of progression in surfing and went for it, despite the shit he got because of it.
The writing is very "talk story," which we say in Hawai`i when we're having a casual chitchat, catching up with friends, reminiscing. This makes it easy to follow along and really get a feel for what Slater was thinking/feeling when these events happened. He's also unforgiving in his honesty, and I love that. Some people might find it off-putting, but I like his up-front attitude and personality.
Born and raised on O`ahu, growing up in the nineties, Kelly Slater was like a god. And I didn't even surf! But I was and still am a fan of the sport. I knew his name, saw his photos in the magazines at Foodland, and realized that in the world of surfing, he was it. You don't have to be a fan of surfing or Kelly Slater to enjoy this book; it leaves any reader with a look at how hard work and perseverance pays off, and that in life, as long as there's time on the clock, there's still a chance.