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Published April 22, 2025
‘From the first time I drank a pomegranate margarita and a smoky mezcal, and the first time I ate fresh guacamole and tasted an incredible mole sauce, I had to drink, eat, and learn more. I needed to be part of this selfish way of learning. I always say, I don’t open restaurants; I tell stories.’
‘I am a child of an era in Spain that we call “la transición.” In 1975, Francisco Franco died after thirty-five years in power, and the country transitioned from dictatorship to democracy. It took me a long time to understand how much that period shaped me, because I wasn’t even interested in politics when I was so young. Still, it left its mark on me.’
‘For a year and a half, I helped teach families how to maximize whatever they bought in the supermarket. It was very fulfilling to share what I knew while at the same time learning about the spirit of my city—and learning from people I would not normally have met. I was still looking to do more. My partner and friend Rob Wilder was already engaged with another nonprofit, called DC Central Kitchen, where he chaired the board. He made the introduction that would change my life. It was, and still is, a brilliant organization: feeding the homeless almost ten thousand meals a day, while in the process getting people off the streets and training them in culinary skills. They gave second chances to people who were formerly in prison, and they cooked with the surplus food left over from farmers, hotels, and restaurants. So a dollar spent feeding the homeless was also a dollar spent fighting food waste, and was also a dollar spent training someone to get a job in the restaurant sector that was always looking to hire people. The organization took its name from its location: it was in the basement of the main homeless shelter in the city, so it was the “central kitchen.” It was an inspiration to me because they were not just throwing money at a problem; they were investing in the solutions. For me, it was an instant love affair—The challenge is a very powerful one, because money is not the only solution. We waste too much money by not putting it in the service of solving the true problems at both the smallest and the largest scale.’
‘—Egger understood from the beginning that one dollar could be multiplied. He understood that because he was thinking about the liberation of the receiver. He knew deep in his bones that people don’t want our pity; they want our respect. If you pity people, then you just give them money. If you respect them, you invest in them. You solve problems together with them. I see people—good people with good intentions—fall into this trap all the time. There are conferences on hunger and poverty, but not a single person who has lived with either hunger or poverty is invited. If you want to fix people’s lives, you need to hear from them. You need to understand what they’re experiencing because they are smarter than you think. So when I serve people today with my humanitarian work, I think of it as much more than helping. It’s a way for me to learn—You gather information and listen to the voices of the people—their stories and their feelings. You listen—to the people on the receiving end of those policies. Just because you mean well doesn’t mean that you’ll do well. Just because you’re doing good doesn’t mean you’re doing smart good. We need to be better and do better, and that begins with being smart. The only way to do that is to learn, to embrace trial and error, to push the boundaries as we search for solutions—That’s why I created World Central Kitchen, whose name is meant to echo Robert Egger’s creation. That’s why I created the Global Food Institute at George Washington University, to help create longer-term solutions to our broken food systems.’
‘We need to stop the bullshit and be much, much smarter. Because the recipes of the past have not been good enough. New recipes must be written. New ingredients must be brought to the table. New ways of thinking must be embraced. If we don’t dramatically change what we do, and how we do it, we’re wasting our time. Poverty and hunger will worsen in a world where the climate is in crisis. We need to learn from the great successes and the great mistakes of the past so we can advocate and implement bigger, smarter change in our world. It’s up to us to change the recipe.’
‘That’s part of why I don’t read résumés. We grow quickly in emergencies and we have to make quick decisions about the people we trust to look after those in need. I don’t want to know who people are or what they did. I only want to know what I see them doing. Because for me, that’s the most powerful thing. You don’t overvalue people, and you don’t undervalue people. You just take them at face value with what they are doing on the ground at the moment. This works very well for me personally, but I know it’s not conventional—That’s why I don’t like to ask people, What did you do in your previous life? I only want to see what they are doing now. Do they care? Do they help an elderly woman walk across the street? Do they carry a box to give to the people? Those are maybe small details, but those to me are the gestures that tell me that person is the right person for the moment. Responding to disasters is intense and builds deep bonds and friendships. They bring out the best in us at the worst of times. It takes special people to do this work, and I find that they are almost soulmates—I pushed hard to create branding for World Central Kitchen. Not because of appearances but because of something much more profound that I learned from sports. I love football. I know the meaning of going to a game where everybody is wearing the same shirt and celebrating a victory and the entire stadium is going nuts. Why? Because your team won a championship. We may be doing very different things, but we can get that same feeling in a disaster—that we all belong to the same team. Of course, our objective is far more than scoring a goal. Our objective is to feed people. Imagine how much more powerful being part of a team becomes when we share that sense of mission.’
‘Cooking makes us human. It’s what separates us from every other animal on the planet. We are the only species to cook our food. There’s good reason to think that cooking helped our brains to grow, to develop sophisticated language, and to build community. If you can’t cook, you waste a lot of energy chewing and digesting. So it should be no surprise that cooking and eating together restores us and our sense of community. Especially in the worst situations—Hot meals are magical. In a disaster or war, they feed your stomach and your soul. Cooking food transforms the ingredients and the way we feel when we eat them. A hot meal tells you that somebody cares.’
The most precious thing you own is time. Time for thinking. Time for doing nothing. Time to find out who you are. Time to enjoy a new flavor. Time to go to a new restaurant. Time to watch the sunset. It’s the biggest luxury of all, to enjoy the moment, to be aware of the things you have around you. It takes a lifetime to become who you are, and it takes another lifetime to understand the people around you. That’s why I feel that one of the best gifts you have when you are younger is time itself—At any age, time is the most precious ingredient you can find. So use it wisely and use it freely.’
‘I collect old cookbooks. A lot of old cookbooks. So many that we don’t have enough space for them at home or at work. So many that my wife wonders what I do with all those old books. Here’s what I do: I go through them, and smell them, and try to understand why the authors wrote what they did back in the 1700s or the 1800s. What were people really like in those times? What did they eat and why?’