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Summit 8000: Life and death with Australia's greatest mountaineer
A thrilling memoir of the spectacular high-altitude mountaineering achievements of Andrew Lock: the only Australian to have summited all fourteen 8000-metre peaks in the world, including Mount Everest—twice.
Here Andrew Lock gives us a gripping account of his death-defying ascents and explains his passion for climbing in small teams, or solo, without Sherpas or bottled oxgyen. Andrew’s story is one of extraordinary passion, self-motivation, perseverance and resilience, as he leads us through his sixteen-year odyssey to achieve the Grand Slam of Himalayan mountaineering. We are taken through the victories, the near-misses and the great tragedies. The intense human drama of the expeditions infuses the book—sometimes funny, sometimes fierce and always fascinating stories about survival, climbing rivalries and mountaineering politics. The remote and stunning landscapes and cultures that Andrew encounters on his journeys add rich texture to his tale, culminating in his 2014 trip to Everest, where he was witness to the deadliest avalanche in the peak’s history.
Ultimately, we learn ‘why does he do it?’ Why does anyone take on such a challenge, knowing how easily they might be killed? Andrew’s story is both candid and inspiring.
Andrew Lock is the most accomplished high-altitude mountaineer in Australian history. He is the only Australian, the first person in the Commonwealth, and just the 18th man in the world to climb all fourteen of the world’s 8000-metre mountains. His achievements encompass eighteen summits of those 8000-metre peaks, including Mt Everest (twice) more than four times that of any other Australian, placing him in a select group of the world’s best alpinists. Additionally, Andrew accomplished the first Australian ascent of six of those mountains, a record that can never be broken. Andrew Lock is a professional motivational and keynote speaker. He can be found at www.andrew-lock.com.
Here Andrew Lock gives us a gripping account of his death-defying ascents and explains his passion for climbing in small teams, or solo, without Sherpas or bottled oxgyen. Andrew’s story is one of extraordinary passion, self-motivation, perseverance and resilience, as he leads us through his sixteen-year odyssey to achieve the Grand Slam of Himalayan mountaineering. We are taken through the victories, the near-misses and the great tragedies. The intense human drama of the expeditions infuses the book—sometimes funny, sometimes fierce and always fascinating stories about survival, climbing rivalries and mountaineering politics. The remote and stunning landscapes and cultures that Andrew encounters on his journeys add rich texture to his tale, culminating in his 2014 trip to Everest, where he was witness to the deadliest avalanche in the peak’s history.
Ultimately, we learn ‘why does he do it?’ Why does anyone take on such a challenge, knowing how easily they might be killed? Andrew’s story is both candid and inspiring.
Andrew Lock is the most accomplished high-altitude mountaineer in Australian history. He is the only Australian, the first person in the Commonwealth, and just the 18th man in the world to climb all fourteen of the world’s 8000-metre mountains. His achievements encompass eighteen summits of those 8000-metre peaks, including Mt Everest (twice) more than four times that of any other Australian, placing him in a select group of the world’s best alpinists. Additionally, Andrew accomplished the first Australian ascent of six of those mountains, a record that can never be broken. Andrew Lock is a professional motivational and keynote speaker. He can be found at www.andrew-lock.com.
303 pages, Paperback
First published July 29, 2014
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Displaying 1 - 27 of 28 reviews
November 24, 2016
In brief Decent book on the author's climbs of some of the highest peaks in the world. Great for those with an interest.
In full review
Andrew Lock, the author of Summit 8000, is a leading Australian climber and is the only Australian to have summited all the 8000 metre peaks. The 14 8000 metre peaks are all in the Karakorum, Himalaya chain. This is the story of his high altitudes climbs and those on 8000+ metre peaks in particular. He also mentions other aspects of his life although this is mostly a book about climbing and climbers.
I loved the prologue, "Falling" on his first 8000 metre peak which was K2 - the "madness" of high altitude climbing comes over clearly. The autobiography then moves to his dawning interest in climbing in Australia and then South Island, New Zealand. After that there is an expedition to Mount McKinley (Denali). By then he is effectively hooked on this type of climbing. The chapters then work chronologically through his climbing career. This start starting with K2 and ending with climbing his ascent of Shishapangma after a number of attempts. There are postscripts to most of the chapters generally concerning the death of other on the mountain at the same time as him. I found these interesting and they also added to the atmosphere of attrition among such climbers. With the narrative on each peak there is information on earlier attempts and first ascents which was useful information. There is a glossary of Mountaineering terms and a decent index.
This is not a book about climbing techniques or routes particularly nor the minutia of camp life high on mountains. It is far more about the personal growth of someone who became a dedicated high mountain specialist. In part it is also about the people he met on expeditions and often the deaths in that community. There is controversy in some of the chapters. This is evident in a climb the author made at the same time as Alan Hinks. I've read Hinks's version of the climb too and on balance I think my sympathies lie with the author of this book.
I thoroughly enjoyed reading this book and only have a small number of minor issues with it. I really would have liked to have seen some photographs in a book of this nature. Not I hasten to add to prove the author was there - he has dealt with that - but it would add a dimension to this book. Equally some detailed maps of the peaks and outline routes would have appealed to me as an armchair mountaineer. I am well aware of the Everest routes and some of the other major peaks however there are a few I'm not familiar with and this would have helped me visualise them better. There are times I found the writing workman like rather than exciting I guess.
The book is peppered with views on his and other climbers motivations/rationales which I really enjoyed. Ultimately Lock considers this more deeply and, in common with other similar books of this genre, the thorny subject of guiding people who are not climbers to the top of high mountains, particularly Everest. I did really enjoy the author's views shared in the final chapter. These came from someone who has clearly grown a lot in the years of high altitude mountaineering covered in this book. However can he kick the drug!
Note - I received an advance digital copy of this book from the publisher in exchange for a fair review
http://viewson.org.uk/non-fiction/sum...
In full review
Andrew Lock, the author of Summit 8000, is a leading Australian climber and is the only Australian to have summited all the 8000 metre peaks. The 14 8000 metre peaks are all in the Karakorum, Himalaya chain. This is the story of his high altitudes climbs and those on 8000+ metre peaks in particular. He also mentions other aspects of his life although this is mostly a book about climbing and climbers.
I loved the prologue, "Falling" on his first 8000 metre peak which was K2 - the "madness" of high altitude climbing comes over clearly. The autobiography then moves to his dawning interest in climbing in Australia and then South Island, New Zealand. After that there is an expedition to Mount McKinley (Denali). By then he is effectively hooked on this type of climbing. The chapters then work chronologically through his climbing career. This start starting with K2 and ending with climbing his ascent of Shishapangma after a number of attempts. There are postscripts to most of the chapters generally concerning the death of other on the mountain at the same time as him. I found these interesting and they also added to the atmosphere of attrition among such climbers. With the narrative on each peak there is information on earlier attempts and first ascents which was useful information. There is a glossary of Mountaineering terms and a decent index.
This is not a book about climbing techniques or routes particularly nor the minutia of camp life high on mountains. It is far more about the personal growth of someone who became a dedicated high mountain specialist. In part it is also about the people he met on expeditions and often the deaths in that community. There is controversy in some of the chapters. This is evident in a climb the author made at the same time as Alan Hinks. I've read Hinks's version of the climb too and on balance I think my sympathies lie with the author of this book.
I thoroughly enjoyed reading this book and only have a small number of minor issues with it. I really would have liked to have seen some photographs in a book of this nature. Not I hasten to add to prove the author was there - he has dealt with that - but it would add a dimension to this book. Equally some detailed maps of the peaks and outline routes would have appealed to me as an armchair mountaineer. I am well aware of the Everest routes and some of the other major peaks however there are a few I'm not familiar with and this would have helped me visualise them better. There are times I found the writing workman like rather than exciting I guess.
The book is peppered with views on his and other climbers motivations/rationales which I really enjoyed. Ultimately Lock considers this more deeply and, in common with other similar books of this genre, the thorny subject of guiding people who are not climbers to the top of high mountains, particularly Everest. I did really enjoy the author's views shared in the final chapter. These came from someone who has clearly grown a lot in the years of high altitude mountaineering covered in this book. However can he kick the drug!
Note - I received an advance digital copy of this book from the publisher in exchange for a fair review
http://viewson.org.uk/non-fiction/sum...
February 15, 2017
Firstly you do not have to be a mountaineer enthusiast to enjoy this book, I had no interest in it at all and I really enjoyed it.
Andrew Lock is an incredible guy, he talks you through his high altitude mountaineering career, there are 14 mountains over 8000 metres and Andrew plans to climb all of them. He talks you through each attempted climb some are successful some are not. There are so many dangers that I had no idea about, altitude sickness, brain swelling, frostbite, avalanches, snow blindness, Andrew has seen it all either in himself or his climbing buddies.
Andrew is a selfless guy on the mountain, he gives up his own summit attempts to help his climbing partners that are injured or just too exhausted to continue, the things that he has witnessed will amaze you. Even the trips to base camp sound like an adventure.
Andrew has taught me never to give up on your dreams, even if it takes years you can do it. I will take something away from this book and will apply to my own life so thankyou Andrew Lock.
Thankyou to Netgalley, Andrew Lock and the publisher for an arc in exchange for an honest review.
Andrew Lock is an incredible guy, he talks you through his high altitude mountaineering career, there are 14 mountains over 8000 metres and Andrew plans to climb all of them. He talks you through each attempted climb some are successful some are not. There are so many dangers that I had no idea about, altitude sickness, brain swelling, frostbite, avalanches, snow blindness, Andrew has seen it all either in himself or his climbing buddies.
Andrew is a selfless guy on the mountain, he gives up his own summit attempts to help his climbing partners that are injured or just too exhausted to continue, the things that he has witnessed will amaze you. Even the trips to base camp sound like an adventure.
Andrew has taught me never to give up on your dreams, even if it takes years you can do it. I will take something away from this book and will apply to my own life so thankyou Andrew Lock.
Thankyou to Netgalley, Andrew Lock and the publisher for an arc in exchange for an honest review.
January 14, 2017
Entertaining but sobering look at one man's experience of climbing all the 8000ers. Great for those of us who like to understand the motivations and experiences of high-altitude mountaineers from the comfort of an armchair.
December 10, 2014
I thoroughly enjoyed Andrew's account of his 14 8000 metre summits. While 24 hours doesn't seem long at sea level you truly got a sense of time moving both rapidly and slowly above 8000 metres, depending on the light, and just how precarious life could be in the death zone. Many excellent life lessons in this book that reach far beyond mountaineering. A wonderful tale of an astounding and quiet Australian achiever.
May 28, 2017
I have read a few mountaineers books and this one of the better books. The book an autobiography of Andrew's distinguished climbing career. Personally, I find one of his greatest achievements is that he is still alive after a 27 year mountaineering career starting in 1985. Each chapter in the book concludes the section that the circumstances of the the deaths of the climbers mentioned in the chapter who are no longer alive. It makes sobering reading.
Andrew does not pull his punches in this book. It is clear that he has no tolerance for fools and shirkers and this has no doubt put him on the wrong side of some in the climbing community with fragile egos. For example, I do not think he is on British climber Alan Hinkes's Christmas card list. He is insistent that climbers must develop the instincts and techniques on safer lower mountains before attempting any of the famous but very dangerous 800o metre summits. He is also critical of the Sherpa climbing and guiding practices on Mt Everest. For example, he points out the brutal fact that none of the Sherpa "Icefall Doctors" who maintain the trail through the Khumbu Icefall are certified mountaineers and if they were, the tragedy of 2014 may have been avoided.
I have often wondered how the climbers got their climbing skills to level were they can climb multiple 8000 meter peaks. This book answers my question by documenting Andrew's path from a school boy boy scout to become Australia's most accomplished mountaineer. It is a wonderful story of accomplishment against adversity. The book is well written and easy to read. Even if this is the first mountaineers book you read you will get a lot from this book.
Andrew does not pull his punches in this book. It is clear that he has no tolerance for fools and shirkers and this has no doubt put him on the wrong side of some in the climbing community with fragile egos. For example, I do not think he is on British climber Alan Hinkes's Christmas card list. He is insistent that climbers must develop the instincts and techniques on safer lower mountains before attempting any of the famous but very dangerous 800o metre summits. He is also critical of the Sherpa climbing and guiding practices on Mt Everest. For example, he points out the brutal fact that none of the Sherpa "Icefall Doctors" who maintain the trail through the Khumbu Icefall are certified mountaineers and if they were, the tragedy of 2014 may have been avoided.
I have often wondered how the climbers got their climbing skills to level were they can climb multiple 8000 meter peaks. This book answers my question by documenting Andrew's path from a school boy boy scout to become Australia's most accomplished mountaineer. It is a wonderful story of accomplishment against adversity. The book is well written and easy to read. Even if this is the first mountaineers book you read you will get a lot from this book.
January 25, 2017
One thing that is amazing about reading books is that you get to go on adventures that you would never dream of go on in real life. For me, that would be mountain climbing. I think that's why I loved Summit 8000 as much as I did.
I admire the sport of mountain climbing so much. It takes strength, perseverance, and faith which is what we see in Summit 8000 as Australian climber Andrew Lock takes it through his mountain climbing career. Andrew started climbing in 1985 as a sport but climbing quickly became a passion.
There are 14 mountains that are over 8000 meters and Andrew Lock decided to join a very small group of people who have summited (reached the peak) each 8000-meter mountain and lived to tell about it.
Andrew became the first Australian to have climbed all fourteen of the world's 8000 meter mountains and you are with him on each expedition. From his brushes with death, the deaths of several other mountaineers, and his triumphs this book is a rollercoaster of emotions.
Despite a few instances that made me cringe, Summit 8000 was a wonderful read. It brought me into a world I've never known before. Highly recommend!
*I received a complimentary copy of this book in exchange for an honest review
I admire the sport of mountain climbing so much. It takes strength, perseverance, and faith which is what we see in Summit 8000 as Australian climber Andrew Lock takes it through his mountain climbing career. Andrew started climbing in 1985 as a sport but climbing quickly became a passion.
There are 14 mountains that are over 8000 meters and Andrew Lock decided to join a very small group of people who have summited (reached the peak) each 8000-meter mountain and lived to tell about it.
Andrew became the first Australian to have climbed all fourteen of the world's 8000 meter mountains and you are with him on each expedition. From his brushes with death, the deaths of several other mountaineers, and his triumphs this book is a rollercoaster of emotions.
Despite a few instances that made me cringe, Summit 8000 was a wonderful read. It brought me into a world I've never known before. Highly recommend!
*I received a complimentary copy of this book in exchange for an honest review
June 20, 2017
I have read some very serious adventure books (e.g., Ubuntu, With Every Step, The 1000 Hour Day, 438 Days, 5 Months in a Leaky Boat, Three Men in A Raft etc) and this tops them all by way of unbelievable determination in the face of death at every step. Reading this, my heartrate went up. The 14 over 8000m mountains don't attract me in the slightest. Hiking in Nepal to see them from below, fine. That Andrew could live through this lot is a combination of mind, body and shear very good luck. I rember well being perched on a narrow ledge in southwest Tasmania wondering what the hell I was doing there, but those 8000m climbs don't compare in the slightest. This is one scary book that tells you we are not all the same, thank heaven. PS: Andrew was working as a Field Training Officer in the Australian Antartic Division when I was there, so we must have crossed paths.
February 25, 2019
The best book I have ever read. Stumbled upon this incredible read by chance and continually thank the universe for it. Read the whole thing in just over a week, was impossible to put down. Recommend to anyone and everyone. Andrew is an absolute inspiration, what an amazing man. If you have the chance, and need a book to read, this is the one for you.
May 4, 2019
An inspiring and very engaging narrative of a climbing life full of highs and lows, excitement, struggles and ultimate fulfillment. Easy to read, the author is honest and direct with the descriptions of his successes as well as failures. As simple as it can get, as heartfelt as it can get. A must read.
January 25, 2023
Inspiring in more ways then one. This book teaches you the amazing positives about living in the mountains and taking large but controlled risks whilst also digging into the negatives of the life chosen and the disconnection you can have from friends and family. A great read and one I will defiantly be coming back to. “Mountains are simple, but they do not offer simplicity”
April 22, 2020
So thrilling in some parts it had me sitting in the edge of my seat. A very honest recount and an insight to mountain life for those that dream of getting to the top, but probably never will.
July 10, 2021
Great read for anyone who loves the mountains, life-threatening challenges, and relentless mind sets.
November 30, 2018
Full disclosure: I am not in any way, shape or form a mountaineer.
With that out of the way, this book, while mildly entertaining comes across as a large series of extraordinarily questionable decisions on everything from climbing to relationships.
The author makes frequent references to sacrificing relationships and jobs to feed his climbing addiction. After all of that he comes across as entitled and whiny that people who haven’t invested their entire lives in climbing might be able to experience a mountain like Everest:
“Banning all guided climbing expeditions in the Himalaya would safeguard the Sherpas and return the mountains to those who have the skills to climb them.”
None of this takes away from what is truly an amazing achievement climbing all the 8000m peaks. He is clearly and truly a legend and his adventures are undoubtedly entertaining. This book scratched the itch I bought it for but nothing more.
With that out of the way, this book, while mildly entertaining comes across as a large series of extraordinarily questionable decisions on everything from climbing to relationships.
The author makes frequent references to sacrificing relationships and jobs to feed his climbing addiction. After all of that he comes across as entitled and whiny that people who haven’t invested their entire lives in climbing might be able to experience a mountain like Everest:
“Banning all guided climbing expeditions in the Himalaya would safeguard the Sherpas and return the mountains to those who have the skills to climb them.”
None of this takes away from what is truly an amazing achievement climbing all the 8000m peaks. He is clearly and truly a legend and his adventures are undoubtedly entertaining. This book scratched the itch I bought it for but nothing more.
October 3, 2015
I enjoyed this easy to pick up book. It was interesting to gain insight into the gradual development of the accomplished mountaineer over many years: the building of skills and ability to asses risks coupled with a steady quiet determination. The spectacular settings add to the appeal of the book, as does the cultural and historical background information.
August 28, 2016
This mountaineers account of his summit attempts reveals how selfish and ruthless elite mountaineers are, leaving many to struggle or die in their own pursuits for their own goals, with little remorse. The stories from each mountain also demonstrate how dangerous the sport is. Not a particularly exciting read.
December 16, 2016
I received a free copy via Netgalley in exchange for a honest review.
This book reveals how single minded and maybe ruthless, to the exclusion of all others, elite mountaineers have to be.
It shows how you can live life to the fullest and with alot of luck and hard work fulfill your dreams.
A great read showing the extremes of mountaineering.
This book reveals how single minded and maybe ruthless, to the exclusion of all others, elite mountaineers have to be.
It shows how you can live life to the fullest and with alot of luck and hard work fulfill your dreams.
A great read showing the extremes of mountaineering.
August 30, 2014
Riveting. Adventure after adventure as the author climbs all 14, 8000 meter mountains in the world and writes a captivating story about each death defying climb. Thank you Netgalley for the advance reader's copy.
April 15, 2016
Even though every chapter ends with the details of all the mountaineers who subsequently perished, this account did make me want to go back to Nepal! Quite an amazing achievement to climb all the 8000m peaks
October 4, 2014
Excellent, riveting, well worth the read. Mountaineers and armchair adventurers alike will be gripped by the account of Andrew's summit successes on the 14 highest mountains on Earth.
December 4, 2014
Incredible accounts of his summits (and attempted summits) of the 8000ers. While its incredibly inspiring, it also shows the realities of these dangerous adventures.
February 24, 2015
A compelling book about Australia's greatest mountaineer.
April 23, 2015
This book should really make me never want to go to high altitude again, but in fact it achieved just the opposite. Very good read.
January 22, 2016
Has got to be one of the best most intense books I have read, and I got an autograph when I met him in Australia
April 19, 2016
Could not stop reading this - what an adventure.
May 1, 2016
Very good bio of Australia's most accomplished mountaineer - nothing too suprising, but a solid account of a very strong climber and his mountains.
May 3, 2016
I love books about climbing Everest and other mountains and this was definitely one of the better ones I've read.
May 22, 2017
This is a very comprehensive book, full of detailed descriptions of the mountains, the climbs and the author's fellow and rival climbers, as you would expect. I found the writing quite workmanlike at times though. There was a lack of suspense and excitement. Even as a travelogue it failed to engage me as the author is often intrigued by events and cultures that are not a novelty to travellers, readers of travel literature, or even documentary watchers nowadays.
It's impossible not to admire the skill, dedication and risks taken by climbers such as the author. Harder to admire is the 'man mind thyself' attitude when weaker or injured climbers slow progress or, worse still, have to be left behind. It's either ruthless or practical depending on your perspective.
If anything, that was what I found most interesting about this book.
Thanks to NetGalley and Melbourne University Publishing for a review copy.
It's impossible not to admire the skill, dedication and risks taken by climbers such as the author. Harder to admire is the 'man mind thyself' attitude when weaker or injured climbers slow progress or, worse still, have to be left behind. It's either ruthless or practical depending on your perspective.
If anything, that was what I found most interesting about this book.
Thanks to NetGalley and Melbourne University Publishing for a review copy.
Displaying 1 - 27 of 28 reviews