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Beyond Dubai: Seeking Lost Cities in the Emirates

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Beyond Dubai is a light-hearted journey around the Emirates in search of its past — encountering smugglers, fire-starting genies, loved-up camels, and a mysterious mountain tribe along the way. In addition to exploring the UAE’s lost cities and hidden treasures, it also tells the extraordinary tale of how climate change transformed a once-fertile grassland into the starkly beautiful desert that it is today.

308 pages, Paperback

First published August 5, 2014

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116 people want to read

About the author

David Millar

4 books10 followers
It would be nice to be able to say that David Millar has lived an exciting life, that he worked a season on a whaler in the arctic, searched for lost cities in Arabia, and made and lost a fortune as a gold trader in Singapore, but sadly only one of those things is true—although to be fair it did result in his first book Beyond Dubai: Seeking Lost Cities in the Emirates. Otherwise he’s just a guy who studied glaciers and climate change and is still surprised how quickly we’ve managed to mess up the planet. His novel The Ministry for Ignoring Climate Change is a satire about a government department which doesn’t really believe in climate change yet ends up thinking it can control the weather. Serious yet optimistic and above all very entertaining.

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Displaying 1 - 13 of 13 reviews
Profile Image for Michelle.
1,582 reviews282 followers
April 15, 2022
I was surprised by how much I enjoyed this book.

My expectations for this were low I admit, I was expecting a stereotypical account of an expats life in Dubai and having lived here for 7 years I wasn't expecting to get much out of this. I was wrong.

There so much historical knowledge in these pages and I definitely benefited from learning about the history of the UAE as a whole and the historical sites that are on my doorstep that I wasn't  aware of.

I also enjoyed reading about the places I have been too and some parts had me laughing out loud because the humour and experiences are very Dubai.

Four stars. 

At time of posting this book is available on Kindle Unlimited. 
Profile Image for Alexander McNabb.
Author 19 books53 followers
September 1, 2014
"Dubai has nothing. No culture, no history, no character. It has no heart, no spirit, no traditions... It's not a real city, it's just a mirage, all spin and no substance, a city built on sand."

This book starts on that statement and then sets out to prove it wrong. Its triumph is that it does just that and it's a read anyone setting out to explore the Emirates will enjoy.

David Millar lived and worked in the UAE and decided to write a book about the place. He's by no means the only one, we have a small but growing coterie of books left behind by expats like animal spoor, from Desperate Dubai Diaries through to Glittering City Wonders.

I usually avoid these books on the grounds they will almost invariably irritate me. I've spent the past 26-odd years travelling to and living in the Emirates and I've seen enough of it with my own eyes to know I'm not particularly interested in seeing it through someone else's. Having said which, Jim Krane's Dubai: The Story of the World's Fastest City is the Dubai book.

David's taken a different tack, however. Unlike so many commentators on the Emirates, he's decided that below the surface - the half inch of champagne - is a more interesting place to be. Employing the charming little conceit that his visiting girlfriend, Freya, is mulling whether to come to the UAE to join him but won't live somewhere without history, David looks beneath the vavavoom and wawawoo of Dubai and explores the history of the place in a series of road trips. We go up to the East Coast, taking in Fujeirah, Kalba, Northern Oman and the Wadi Bih track; we snake around the fjords of Kasab and the concrete-crushing sprawl of Ras Al Khaimah and we generally do Al Ain, the Rub Al Khali, the Liwa crescent and, finally, Sir Bani Yas.

Each of the book's destinations is treated as a trip to the modern location but the object of the excursion is to unearth its history, the lost cities of the UAE. And David, clearly relishing his subject, mixes observations of the modern and ancient aplenty.

Let me be honest. I fully expected to hate the whole thing. There were times when I felt the discomfort of someone else's view of the place I live in. Having yourself discovered a thing, it's hard to feel a vicarious thrill on behalf of someone else discovering a thing. This is why running up to me and babbling excitedly that whales have belly buttons cutteth not the mustard. Reading Beyond Dubai, I had to fight quite a bit to stop being a dog in the manger all the time and yet - once I'd settled down - I found myself enjoying the journey. Given I have lived here for donkey's, spent quite a lot of time working as a features writer (and so been paid to unearth stuff and write about it) and generally made something of a habit of travelling around and poking things to see if they squeak, there was much in the book I already knew or had experienced myself. Having said that, I've taken a damn sight longer to do it than it takes to read a book: David's efforts have by no means been in vain.

This is a book that will appeal hugely to expats in the UAE or holiday makers interested in going beyond the beaches and taking a look at the rich heritage and culture the country has to offer. If you think that very statement sounds odd, then you need to buy this book. Beyond Dubai is a well written book, a light read that makes its subject accessible and enjoyable. It's sort of Bill Bryson meets Leonard Woolley.

From Jumeirah to Umm Al Qawain's millenia-old city of Tell Abraq, from RAK's lost Julphar and Ibn Majid the famous navigator (whose art eclipsed that of the Europeans whose navies were only then beginning to explore the world systematically while the Arabs had long mastered the arts of astronomy and navigation), Beyond Dubai takes us to the Emirates behind the new roads and skyscrapers and often does so with wit and charm. Brio, even.

Anyone with an interest in the wider UAE will enjoy this book and I reckon will profit greatly from it. And yes, I learned things from this book, so I'm not quite as omniscient as I'd like to think.

If you've just arrived in the Emirates, want to live or holiday there or want to scratch around below the surface a little, Beyond Dubai will give you much pleasure.

I was provided a copy of the book by the author (whom I do not know personally and who approached me seeking a review).
Profile Image for Tibbe.
135 reviews
August 26, 2022
Leuke en luchtige introductie van Dubai en de Emiraten. Schrijfstijl deed me denken aan Bill Bryson. De historische invalshoek in combinatie met de tripjes die de schrijver met zijn vrouw maakt door de regio maken het een origineel en leerzaam boek.
Profile Image for DubaiReader.
782 reviews26 followers
April 23, 2015
This is the book that has been missing from the Dubai travel literature.

I really enjoyed this book, it was a breath of fresh air after some of the drivel that has been written about Dubai. The author has a wonderful tongue-in-cheek sense of humour and a great eye for the ironies of Dubai.

But it's not just a book about the tallest building in the world and skiing on snow when it's 45 degrees outside. David has made the effort to go behind the scenes and look into the history of the country; not just the Trucial States and British domination of last century, but the evidence of habitation thousands of years ago. He reveals a history that even many of the residents are not aware of.

Under the guise of persuading his girlfriend that The UAE has a history worth noting, he travels around the country and parts of Oman, searching out evidence of life in the past. Burial sites, old cities, settlements and historical remains are visited and briefly explained - enough to whet our appetites for visits of our own.
There is also some interesting discussion about the history of the Gulf itself, which, in its distant past, was once dry land, possibly even the site of The Garden of Eden.

One criticism from our book group was that the humour was very British/Canadian; other nationalities found it somewhat patronising, but humour is always a very personal thing.
Photos would also have been a great addition.

This is a book that I would highly recommend to visitors and residents of Dubai alike. It is informative and readable and well worth reading.

http://www.beyonddubai.net/david-mill...
Profile Image for thereadytraveller.
127 reviews30 followers
November 2, 2017
Beyond Dubai: Seeking Lost Cities in the Emirates takes us on an historical travel journey around the United Arab Emirates as the author attempts to convince his girlfriend of the cultural merits of the UAE, beyond the stereotyped images of glitzy shopping malls. Extremely well researched, the book provides a veritable treasure trove of information on the history and potential places of interest to visit in the Emirates and neighbouring Oman.

Whilst not laugh out loud funny, the author’s observations are injected with humour and he makes what might ordinarily be a dry story, very interesting. An honest account of the region and written almost as a guide book narrative, this is certainly one to read for anyone interested in relocating to the UAE.
Profile Image for Guen Rossi.
21 reviews
October 31, 2024
Lots of curiosities re. UAE

Very enjoyable read for the ones that want to know more on UAE and their history. Quite hyronical and easy to read
Profile Image for M.G..
434 reviews75 followers
February 14, 2022
This book is excellent. My travel destination in a few weeks is Dubai, but I really enjoyed learning about the rest of the UAE as well. The travel memoir/history book duality made it exciting to read, and I learned a lot from that genre-blend! I really enjoyed David Millar's flow and sequence of writing, how he traveled from each area in the UAE, describing both its present and past. This is such a great book, telling many stories of the UAE, past and present!
Profile Image for Luisa نور.
53 reviews27 followers
November 2, 2015
This is the book to read for any western person who is coming to the UAE for the first time (for holidays or work or whatever). It's funny, and actually gives a lot of info, beyond the clichés, about not only Dubaï but all of the UAE (and even a bit of Oman) and everything there is to see.
Those who have already been there might also learn a few things (now I'd like to go back to see all of this lost cities and stuff I never heard about !), and laugh at certain situations they will be familiar with ...
Profile Image for Asia.
43 reviews
April 23, 2015
Somewhat interesting look at the natural history of the region. But, didn't feel it gave enough attention to the actual history of the sites. Also, at a practical level would like guidance on how a lot of this can be accessed?!
2,358 reviews106 followers
September 27, 2015
I liked this book because the People on the Amazing Race went there. It is a city of glitz, tall buildings, and an expensive mirage. But this is really a first rate modern city in the middle of the hottest weather on the earth.
Displaying 1 - 13 of 13 reviews