I love a good fashion memoir; one that addresses racism and classism within the industry is even better! Enninful was the first Black editor-in-chief of British Vogue and details his childhood in Ghana, emigrating to London, and how his start as a model evolved into a career behind the scenes. I’m not as familiar with the British fashion scene of the 1980/1990s so it was especially fun to hear about that time, as well as learning about his friendships with various notables. Again and again he used his position to elevate other Black designers and models and to push back against the racist, classist systems in place. He has unique insights as a Black immigrant and I loved hearing about how this translated to his work.
As I read, I couldn’t help but wonder about Enninful’s relationship with André Leon Talley. He’s briefly mentioned by name and there’s a photo of them at an event but that’s about it. Talley’s memoir The Chiffon Trenches detailed his own experiences with racism within the industry, taking a quieter, more “behind the scenes” approach. Enninful, by contrast, addresses racism head on, both in this memoir and in his work.
This isn’t a dishy memoir, nor is it particularly in-depth. But it was super enjoyable nonetheless. Enninful stays fairly inscrutable: I don’t feel I know him any better now that I’m done. I’ll be curious if he ever writes more of a tell-all. I also would have liked to hear more about his relationship with his husband Alec.
Content notes: alcoholism and sobriety (says he doesn’t fit the clinical definition; after 14 years of sobriety started to occasionally have a sip of alcohol), PTSD diagnosis, depression, hypochondria, Sickle Cell Anemia + Thalassemia, medical abuse (doctor refused to prescribe pain medication for Sickle Cell pain), mom has a stroke, death of mother, friend died by suicide, emotionally abusive father, racism, xenophobia, racial profiling, police violence, homophobia, classism, AIDS epidemic, COVID-19, George Floyd murder, father kicked him out of the house for quitting college, immigration from Ghana to London (asylum), passport theft, shoplifting, father in the military and often deployed, dog bite, tinnitus, detaching retina, weight gain, alcohol, inebriation, acid, LSD, marijuana, cigarettes, anti-fat bias, ableist language, mentions of military executions and politically-motivated murders