I can't say (with confidence) that Scott interrogated most anything in this featherweight volume. The blurb poses some genuinely arresting inquiries, but these ultimately go unanswered, let alone explored.
This book's primary structural premise -That fine dining is a self-serious, performative, and painfully impermanent indulgence- is shallow, and feels semantically indolent for readers living in the era of Dubai chocolate, The Bear, and #viral food trends. Perhaps these were novel revelations in 2014 (for who?), but today they read as implicit and uninteresting. Jay Rayner's 'My Dining Hell' -which includes reviews that precede Scott's work by some years- makes a much more compelling case for (the best and worst of) fine dining. Scott repeatedly makes reference to his social class, but falls short of interrogating how and why this might impact his perspective on spending exorbitant amounts on multi-course meals. For the author and his entourage of Inner-North would-be literati, nothing is at stake, and everything that could be enjoyed can be bought. 'Salad Days' would be better off excluding half-hearted attempts at interviews with industry professionals, which provide yet another distraction from this volume's ostensible thesis. In this sense, I turned the last page with the overwhelming sense that 'Salad Days' was not only under-developed, but uninteresting.
Scott's six 'courses' follow no clear route, as the kernels of an idea are whisked away by swooning recollections of (yet another) abrupt, unaffordable holiday. The realpolitik of fine dining remains unexamined, and I fear that the author has not safely escaped the pretentiousness of his subject. This aside, I found Scott's authorial voice trite and ill-equipped to evoke good food's romance, theatre, and truth. Syntax was often ungainly, and tended to highlight Scott's shallow engagement with his subject matter. Ideas are dropped like hot crockery as quickly as they are picked up, and readers can do little but furtively peer at the smashed conceptual shards as they are ushered toward the next dull distraction.
Altogether, 'Salad Days' was undercooked and unsatisfying. Put another way.. I'm still hungry..!