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Make It Ours: Crashing the Gates of Culture with Virgil Abloh
Brought to you by Penguin.
From Pulitzer Prize-winning culture critic Robin Givhan comes a groundbreaking chronicle of the legacy of Virgil Abloh, whose iconic rise to the top of the fashion industry transformed our ideas about the connection between who we are and what we wear
In 2018, shockwaves were sent around the fashion industry when Virgil Abloh was appointed the head of menswear for Louis Vuitton. Despite no formal training in pattern-making or tailoring, Abloh had become the first Black designer to serve as artistic director in the brand’s 164-year history.
Make It Ours tells the story of how that moment came to be and how Abloh came to symbolise and embody the industry’s way forward. Using Abloh’s surprising path to the top of the luxury establishment, Givhan unfolds the larger story of how the cloistered, exclusive fashion world faced a revolution from below in the form of streetwear and designers unafraid to storm the gate, and how a simple t-shirt came to hold as much cultural power as a haute couture gown.
With unparalleled access to Abloh’s family, friends, collaborators, and contemporaries, and featuring a cast of fascinating characters ranging from groundbreaking Black designers like Ozwald Boateng to Abloh’s mercurial but critical employer and mentor Kanye West, Givhan weaves a spellbinding tale of a young man’s rise amidst a cultural moment that would upend a century’s worth of ideas about luxury and taste. This is at once a remarkable biography of a singular creative force and a powerful meditation on fashion and race, taste and exclusivity, genius and luxury.
'A captivating and beautifully written biography of the talented Virgil Abloh . . . Thought provoking, emotional and illuminating this book is a definite must read!' Tom Ford
'Robin’s posthumous look into the life and work of the late, great, Virgil Abloh is thoughtful, intelligent, honest and masterfully crafted. . . She brilliantly captures Virgil’s fearless march forward through his insatiable curiosity, kindness, humility, generosity and relentless work ethic.' Marc Jacobs
Robin Givhan 2025 (P) Penguin Audio 2025
From Pulitzer Prize-winning culture critic Robin Givhan comes a groundbreaking chronicle of the legacy of Virgil Abloh, whose iconic rise to the top of the fashion industry transformed our ideas about the connection between who we are and what we wear
In 2018, shockwaves were sent around the fashion industry when Virgil Abloh was appointed the head of menswear for Louis Vuitton. Despite no formal training in pattern-making or tailoring, Abloh had become the first Black designer to serve as artistic director in the brand’s 164-year history.
Make It Ours tells the story of how that moment came to be and how Abloh came to symbolise and embody the industry’s way forward. Using Abloh’s surprising path to the top of the luxury establishment, Givhan unfolds the larger story of how the cloistered, exclusive fashion world faced a revolution from below in the form of streetwear and designers unafraid to storm the gate, and how a simple t-shirt came to hold as much cultural power as a haute couture gown.
With unparalleled access to Abloh’s family, friends, collaborators, and contemporaries, and featuring a cast of fascinating characters ranging from groundbreaking Black designers like Ozwald Boateng to Abloh’s mercurial but critical employer and mentor Kanye West, Givhan weaves a spellbinding tale of a young man’s rise amidst a cultural moment that would upend a century’s worth of ideas about luxury and taste. This is at once a remarkable biography of a singular creative force and a powerful meditation on fashion and race, taste and exclusivity, genius and luxury.
'A captivating and beautifully written biography of the talented Virgil Abloh . . . Thought provoking, emotional and illuminating this book is a definite must read!' Tom Ford
'Robin’s posthumous look into the life and work of the late, great, Virgil Abloh is thoughtful, intelligent, honest and masterfully crafted. . . She brilliantly captures Virgil’s fearless march forward through his insatiable curiosity, kindness, humility, generosity and relentless work ethic.' Marc Jacobs
Robin Givhan 2025 (P) Penguin Audio 2025
Audible Audio
Published June 26, 2025
94 people are currently reading
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About the author
Robin Givhan
10 books59 followersROBIN GIVHAN is a contributing Opinion writer for The New York Times. Previously, as The Washington Post's senior critic-at-large, she wrote about politics, race, and the arts, covering the fashion industry as a business, as a cultural institution, and as pure pleasure. She is a Pulitzer Prize winner for criticism and author of The Battle of Versailles: The Night American Fashion Stumbled into the Spotlight and Made History. In addition to the Post, where she has also covered Michelle Obama, Givhan has worked at Newsweek, Daily Beast, Vogue, and the Detroit Free Press.
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Displaying 1 - 24 of 24 reviews
September 10, 2025
A comprehensive examination of the history and context that made a fashion designer like Abloh possible. It follows every possible rabbit trail, almost like a pop-up video, zooming in on almost everyone and anything mentioned before zooming back out to show how this fit into Abloh's career and ascent. We delve into the history of Rockford, IL (his hometown), hip-hop, luxury fashion, IIT, Nike/Adidas, and so much more. While I would still love to read the biography of Abloh I thought I was going to get, this proved to be a fascinating account.
Content notes: Abloh died from cardiac angiosarcoma at 41 year old, death by overdose (people in fashion industry), industry substance abuse, Michael Jackson pedophilia allegations, Kobe Bryant sexual assault allegations, AIDS epidemic, COVID, racism, segregation, racial profiling, racial violence, Black people killed by police (including George Floyd and Breonna Taylor), gun violence cases, industry fatphobia, parents are Ghanaian immigrants, gender essentialist language, ableist language, hyperbolic language around addiction, Harry Potter reference
Content notes: Abloh died from cardiac angiosarcoma at 41 year old, death by overdose (people in fashion industry), industry substance abuse, Michael Jackson pedophilia allegations, Kobe Bryant sexual assault allegations, AIDS epidemic, COVID, racism, segregation, racial profiling, racial violence, Black people killed by police (including George Floyd and Breonna Taylor), gun violence cases, industry fatphobia, parents are Ghanaian immigrants, gender essentialist language, ableist language, hyperbolic language around addiction, Harry Potter reference
November 2, 2025
If you enjoy informational text, this is a good biography for you. It reads almost like a text book. This wasn’t a DNF for me, but it was a STA (switched to audible).
Warning: if you go with the audible version, do not listen while driving. Only listen while you’re doing something active or you might get lulled to sleep.
If I was only given one sentence to describe the book it would be: It tells and doesn’t show.
4 stars for the educational level of writing. Succinct and covers so much ground, with not a coating of sugar within the pages. I learned about the luxury fashion industry and a brilliant young man I had never heard of, despite his 6M person following on social media.
And take my review with a grain of salt - I dig beautiful prose, long winded descriptions of geography that make a place feel like an emotion, similes and metaphors that burst and break your heart wide open, character development that have me missing them when I read the last page and the occasional post-apocalypse adventure thrill.
Warning: if you go with the audible version, do not listen while driving. Only listen while you’re doing something active or you might get lulled to sleep.
If I was only given one sentence to describe the book it would be: It tells and doesn’t show.
4 stars for the educational level of writing. Succinct and covers so much ground, with not a coating of sugar within the pages. I learned about the luxury fashion industry and a brilliant young man I had never heard of, despite his 6M person following on social media.
And take my review with a grain of salt - I dig beautiful prose, long winded descriptions of geography that make a place feel like an emotion, similes and metaphors that burst and break your heart wide open, character development that have me missing them when I read the last page and the occasional post-apocalypse adventure thrill.
Read
December 19, 2025Wow. I love fashion, pop culture and Chicago. ❤️
June 28, 2025
"His story is fashion's next chapter."
Chronicling the short but sparkling career of Virgil Abloh, who brought iconoclastic style to luxury fashion until his death at 41, MAKE IT OURS vividly shows how Abloh's work marked a turning point in how streetwear and hip-hop culture joined hands with the luxury world. As a wholly unfashionable man with no desire to buy $100 t-shirts, I had zero knowledge of Abloh's work, but found myself unexpectedly compelled by the energy and spiritedness that Givhan's prose captures, with her descriptions conveying just why his artistry captured the fashion world.
Givhan cleverly draws from Abloh's statement that everything he did was for his seventeen-year-old self to begin MAKE IT OURS with a survey of the culture that Abloh inhabited at age seventeen, developing this context throughout the book into an examination of how Abloh's designs sparked cultural conversations and controversies surrounding issues like Black Lives Matter or copyright. Despite the book's hagiographical tone, these discussions not only offer a sense of critical balance, but locate Abloh's artistry within vaster cultural shifts that affirm his importance as a designer.
Chronicling the short but sparkling career of Virgil Abloh, who brought iconoclastic style to luxury fashion until his death at 41, MAKE IT OURS vividly shows how Abloh's work marked a turning point in how streetwear and hip-hop culture joined hands with the luxury world. As a wholly unfashionable man with no desire to buy $100 t-shirts, I had zero knowledge of Abloh's work, but found myself unexpectedly compelled by the energy and spiritedness that Givhan's prose captures, with her descriptions conveying just why his artistry captured the fashion world.
Givhan cleverly draws from Abloh's statement that everything he did was for his seventeen-year-old self to begin MAKE IT OURS with a survey of the culture that Abloh inhabited at age seventeen, developing this context throughout the book into an examination of how Abloh's designs sparked cultural conversations and controversies surrounding issues like Black Lives Matter or copyright. Despite the book's hagiographical tone, these discussions not only offer a sense of critical balance, but locate Abloh's artistry within vaster cultural shifts that affirm his importance as a designer.
January 10, 2026
I am so disappointed in this book. I was really looking forward to reading it, as Virgil is one of my favorite inspirational heroes. This is not a biography. It is 300 pages of Robin’s personal views on race, politics, and the fashion industry.
The wrong person wrote this book. It’s a real bummer too, because Virgil’s rise to Mecca was so DOPE, and it seemed like he did it for all of us dreamers. She wastes four chapters (almost half the book) standing on a soapbox about the high-fashion industry, and the reader is left with a very surface-level understanding of Virgil’s career and family. For example, his wife Shannon is mentioned at best two or three times, and we all know that behind every great man stands an even greater woman. This is not to say I disagree with her about the lack of diversity in legacy houses… I just wanted to geek out on all things Virgil: sneakers, streetwear, branding, and DJ sets. She should have written a book about Black designers in the fashion industry and given Virgil a chapter or two, because this is basically how it reads.
Super fans will be disappointed. You will not get any of the nuggets you were hoping for. The chapter on “The Ten” was such a letdown. Those trying to relive the pinnacle of cool for sneakerhead fandom will be left feeling like they copped a bad dupe. I did, however, enjoy Robin’s coverage of the Off-White saga, but again, it lacks those “oh my gosh, I didn’t know that” moments I was so hoping to get.
let’s hope a true and proper fan decides to pick up the pen and deliver a biography that the GOAT deserves.
R.I.P.
“VIRGIL IS STILL HERE”
Z
The wrong person wrote this book. It’s a real bummer too, because Virgil’s rise to Mecca was so DOPE, and it seemed like he did it for all of us dreamers. She wastes four chapters (almost half the book) standing on a soapbox about the high-fashion industry, and the reader is left with a very surface-level understanding of Virgil’s career and family. For example, his wife Shannon is mentioned at best two or three times, and we all know that behind every great man stands an even greater woman. This is not to say I disagree with her about the lack of diversity in legacy houses… I just wanted to geek out on all things Virgil: sneakers, streetwear, branding, and DJ sets. She should have written a book about Black designers in the fashion industry and given Virgil a chapter or two, because this is basically how it reads.
Super fans will be disappointed. You will not get any of the nuggets you were hoping for. The chapter on “The Ten” was such a letdown. Those trying to relive the pinnacle of cool for sneakerhead fandom will be left feeling like they copped a bad dupe. I did, however, enjoy Robin’s coverage of the Off-White saga, but again, it lacks those “oh my gosh, I didn’t know that” moments I was so hoping to get.
let’s hope a true and proper fan decides to pick up the pen and deliver a biography that the GOAT deserves.
R.I.P.
“VIRGIL IS STILL HERE”
Z
July 14, 2025
This is not a hagiography or tribute, it's a book that deeply examines the ways in which a person becomes his complete and complex self as early as a teenager (among my favorite kind of stories) and then, through just the right and unreplicable steps of learning/absorbing and chance encounters/awakenings, makes a statement, has an impact, imparts a vision.
That this all occurs in the world of fashion could possibly be a challenge for readers who are accustomed to these kinds of ascension stories involving sports, or politics, or mainstream art (movies), but there can be no better guide through it than Robin Givhan, my friend and colleague for many years, herself an unmatched force.
Robin brings her skeptical, expert eye to Virgil Abloh and the many layers of context that made him, and how the world responded to him. I learned so much here about the century we live in -- yes, from a book about the rise and untimely death of a fashion designer!
That this all occurs in the world of fashion could possibly be a challenge for readers who are accustomed to these kinds of ascension stories involving sports, or politics, or mainstream art (movies), but there can be no better guide through it than Robin Givhan, my friend and colleague for many years, herself an unmatched force.
Robin brings her skeptical, expert eye to Virgil Abloh and the many layers of context that made him, and how the world responded to him. I learned so much here about the century we live in -- yes, from a book about the rise and untimely death of a fashion designer!
July 11, 2025
Much praise to Robin Givhan for bringing Virgil's story to print. It's not the biography that I wanted but it is a biography that is needed. Givhan does a thorough job of outlining the Virgil's significance and impact on the fashion industry well beyond his years. She talks about the doors that he held open and the barriers he broke. She also addresses his impact on bringing streetwear into high fashion. This book really tells the story of blacks in fashion through Virgil's life.
I, however, would have preferred a story of Virgil that focused on Virgil, the skater, a mover of culture, and an intellocator with young icons like Tyshawn jones or Tremaine Emory. While he moved the needle in high fashion, it was the way in which he inspired, built up, and collaborated with young designers, skaters, and artists that continue to make him an inspiration today.
I, however, would have preferred a story of Virgil that focused on Virgil, the skater, a mover of culture, and an intellocator with young icons like Tyshawn jones or Tremaine Emory. While he moved the needle in high fashion, it was the way in which he inspired, built up, and collaborated with young designers, skaters, and artists that continue to make him an inspiration today.
October 5, 2025
As a fan of Hip Hop, Streetwear, and most of the life of Kanye West, Virgil Abloh was always a cultural icon creating in all of these areas of interests. Givhan does a great job digging into not only Ablohs roots but the roots of the great themes of the biography, social justice, fashion culture, but most importantly the community. Getting a deep dive in Virgil’s story brought me back to my younger days surfing through the internet and creating my own taste in clothing and music and it was cool to see how intertwined it all was with everyone in the community built by the “bloghouse era”. Being inept in the world of high fashion, this book taught me a lot about the luxury world, and really cemented how big the walls and barriers were for Abloh. Amazing read, a true cultural icon. “Virgil Was Here”
July 29, 2025
I picked this up because I’m interested in creative entrepreneurs, but honestly, I feel like we don’t even really **meet** Virgil in this biography. The author spends a lot of time on the history and context around Virgil (which is interesting in its own right, and I learned a lot), but in doing so, she misses the story of Virgil the man and visionary. I’m left wondering: What really motivated his 17 year old self? How and why did he stay true to that vision, especially as his world changed? How hard did he have to work to get out from under Kanye’s shadow and personality to establish his own name? What did his family think of the success? Did his parents feel this was the kind of trajectory worthy of their sacrifices as Ghanaian immigrants? You don’t get to the heart of any of this.
December 23, 2025
Enjoyable read, although a bit dry in parts.
The “tilling the soil” chapter in particular, while an interesting deep dive into the history of the fashion industry’s relationship with POC, felt like it went on too long and provided far more context than was necessary. Almost gave up here but luckily the following chapters beautifully documented Virgil’s rise to the top and kept me hooked pretty well throughout.
Would recommend to anyone who was tapped in with the fashion/hip hop culture scene of the 2010’s. Also this makes that leaked Kanye song “Virgil Let Me Down” look worse but does help you actually understand a little bit better how Mr West arrived at that conclusion even if it is 500 nautical miles off base.
The “tilling the soil” chapter in particular, while an interesting deep dive into the history of the fashion industry’s relationship with POC, felt like it went on too long and provided far more context than was necessary. Almost gave up here but luckily the following chapters beautifully documented Virgil’s rise to the top and kept me hooked pretty well throughout.
Would recommend to anyone who was tapped in with the fashion/hip hop culture scene of the 2010’s. Also this makes that leaked Kanye song “Virgil Let Me Down” look worse but does help you actually understand a little bit better how Mr West arrived at that conclusion even if it is 500 nautical miles off base.
July 21, 2025
very good just a couple of notes
there was no mention of hiroshi fujiwaras collaboration with lv which precedes and gives more context to the sup lv collab. not a big deal but surprised it wasnt mentioned.
there was also a nice opportunity for the been trill collective to be interviewed for the epilogue but maybe thats just what the inner 17 year old in me wanted
there was no mention of hiroshi fujiwaras collaboration with lv which precedes and gives more context to the sup lv collab. not a big deal but surprised it wasnt mentioned.
there was also a nice opportunity for the been trill collective to be interviewed for the epilogue but maybe thats just what the inner 17 year old in me wanted
August 28, 2025
I enjoyed the writing in this book. It is provocative and subtle at the same time. I am an outsider to the subject in many ways, a white 50 something woman who is not in the fashion industry but I was still captivated by all the themes Givhan unearthed.... about fashion, 3% rules of reproduction, Black luxury and consumerism, racism in fashion and at large, mortality and legacy.
July 19, 2025
i can’t imagine writing a book about Virgil so kudos to Robin who wrote the book in a sea of history, context, politics and race. What i wanted was more soul and insight into the kid that was Virgil. would his 17 year old self read this book?? don’t think so
December 21, 2025
Long live Virgil, I wasn’t a huge fan of his time at Vuitton, but I was a huge fan of his time on this planet! Really a different kind of genius with a work ethic I don’t think most people will ever achieve.
December 30, 2025
A vivid account of what is means to lead with influence and have an impact that continues to compound. Abloh’s genius was never loud but strong and confident, his talent transcended and transformed. Learning about his architectural training and creative process was such a joy.
July 5, 2025
a very interesting style of biography! glad my dad told me to read it, i enjoyed it
July 8, 2025
I really enjoyed this book.
Want to read
August 21, 2025Vibe Check rec 8/2025
August 24, 2025
Skimmed and skipped portions.
Meh
Meh
October 16, 2025
Virgil was the least interesting part of this book. I am however, very excited to read another book by this author.
December 8, 2025
brilliant explanation into aboah’s legacy though often overly rambling for my taste
December 28, 2025
A fawning, flat, one dimensional portrait.
August 4, 2025
Intriguing, factual and thoughtful book about the professional and human life of artist and change maker, Virgil Abloh. Robin Givhan is an excellent storyteller, journalist and descriptor of such a prolific, talented and determined man. A must read for those interested in culture, fashion and history.
July 1, 2025
I’ve always been such a huge fan of Abloh’s. An amazing talent gone too soon into his fashion designer career. It was nice to read about his beginnings and the way he never gave up on his dreams. A very inspiring, motivating thing to read about and this book does a good job of that as well a mini history lesson of the Chicago scene that I was quite unfamiliar with.
Displaying 1 - 24 of 24 reviews