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Emilio Pucci: The Astonishing Odyssey of a Fashion Icon
The Drama of War and Postwar Italy Through the Life of One of Its Most Celebrated Icons
When people think of fashion designer Emilio Pucci, it is of his bright, swirling colors and easy, freeing fabrics, and everyone from Sophia Loren to Jackie Kennedy donning the eye-catching dresses that personify La Dolce Vita. What few know about Pucci, however, is that before creating his world-famous fashions, he played a critical role in the war against the Nazis, risking his life to smuggle out to the Allies one of the most important documents of World War II.
The authors bring to life Italy’s darkest and brightest days, with the extraordinary Emilio Pucci at its center. Italy at the end of the war was broken, and Florence, which the Pucci family had called home for seven centuries, lay in ruins. Pucci returned home bruised in body and soul, having endured trials that would have broken many, but, like Italy itself, rose from the ashes, and went on to design some of the most exuberant fashion of all time. He helped usher in a new era of creativity in Italy, which again became a mecca of fashion, art, design, film, and more.
A host of supporting characters—including Mussolini’s daughter and Allen Dulles, and, most importantly, the timeless city of Florence and the mythic island of Capri—enrich this compelling narrative that will draw readers of all kinds, from war and history buffs, to fashionistas and fans of espionage thrillers along with the millions of readers who devour books about Italy and her many charms.
When people think of fashion designer Emilio Pucci, it is of his bright, swirling colors and easy, freeing fabrics, and everyone from Sophia Loren to Jackie Kennedy donning the eye-catching dresses that personify La Dolce Vita. What few know about Pucci, however, is that before creating his world-famous fashions, he played a critical role in the war against the Nazis, risking his life to smuggle out to the Allies one of the most important documents of World War II.
The authors bring to life Italy’s darkest and brightest days, with the extraordinary Emilio Pucci at its center. Italy at the end of the war was broken, and Florence, which the Pucci family had called home for seven centuries, lay in ruins. Pucci returned home bruised in body and soul, having endured trials that would have broken many, but, like Italy itself, rose from the ashes, and went on to design some of the most exuberant fashion of all time. He helped usher in a new era of creativity in Italy, which again became a mecca of fashion, art, design, film, and more.
A host of supporting characters—including Mussolini’s daughter and Allen Dulles, and, most importantly, the timeless city of Florence and the mythic island of Capri—enrich this compelling narrative that will draw readers of all kinds, from war and history buffs, to fashionistas and fans of espionage thrillers along with the millions of readers who devour books about Italy and her many charms.
368 pages, Hardcover
Published February 10, 2026
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Displaying 1 - 18 of 18 reviews
November 26, 2025
Even though I did not know the first thing about Emilio Pucci, I was surprised that a biography of a mid-twentieth century fashion designer would turn out to be mostly about Pucci's World War II adventures as an Italian Air Force pilot and as a courier of secret documents. It was only by chance that he managed to survive the war and then found himself at loose ends. On a whim, he designed a makeshift ski outfit for a girlfriend, and then a New York fashion photographer happened by when they were skiing, taking the iconic photo that appears on this book cover. Luck got Pucci's foot in the door, but he took it from there. He designed sportswear, scarves, ties, suits, and much more for several decades, bringing vibrant colors to a washed-out post-war Italy and beyond. I found Pucci and his adventures completely captivating -- and now I want to read more about the woman whose documents he risked his life to save from the Nazis, Edda Mussolini Ciano. Thanks to NetGalley and St. Martin's Press for a digital review copy.
February 5, 2026
A war pilot who became a fashion icon? I had no idea, and that was just the beginning of what surprised me about Emilio Pucci.
This biography doesn't read like typical nonfiction - it flowed smoothly, almost like a novel. Reading through his accounts of the war and his experiences was a discovery. The way the authors chronicled his journey made me appreciate him beyond the vibrant prints and designs he's known for.
What stood out: His friendship with Edda Ciano, Mussolini's daughter, and his role in helping her and her children escape to Switzerland showed a side of him I didn't expect. Beyond the glamour was a man with a big heart for his country and countrymen. His loyalty and patriotism to Italy, especially Florence, came through on every page.
What struck me most was his strong bond with his family and his unparalleled confidence as a designer. The risks he took to perfect the fabric for the modern jet set demonstrated both his vision and determination.
The chronological structure - from his beginnings to the end of his life - worked well, and the photos included throughout were a welcome treat.
You'll love this if: You enjoy biographies of famous figures, even if you're not particularly into fashion. This is accessible and engaging for any reader.
Thank you to St. Martin's Press for the advance copy.
Read
February 9, 2026I feel that this book was meticulously researched, but yet the narrative voice was so earnest in getting all those facts and speculations before you that a sense of Emilion Pucci, and his fascinating family, remained nebulous, the atmosphere oddly flat for so thrilling, even harrowing a tale.
It could be that because I have zero interest in modern fashion that sense of the text dragging and dragging is me-bias, and not useful for readers into fashion and its prominent figures. But I wished that the editor had brought out more of the war story and a lot less of wheel-spinning and name dropping. Mileage varies!
It could be that because I have zero interest in modern fashion that sense of the text dragging and dragging is me-bias, and not useful for readers into fashion and its prominent figures. But I wished that the editor had brought out more of the war story and a lot less of wheel-spinning and name dropping. Mileage varies!
November 11, 2025
This Advanced Review Copy was provided by St. Martin’s Press via NetGalley in exchange for an honest review.
I’ve read A LOT of fashion non-fiction books, especially designer biographies, as it is one of my favorite book categories, and this one was 100% in my top five! I was SO excited when I saw this book was available on NetGalley, and it definitely lived up to my expectations. I will 100% be buying this when it publishes next year and rereading it. It’s definitely one of those books that lodges in your brain that you keep thinking about or telling people little facts about. I love learning about notable fashion designers from respected journalists and authors, and this book was no exception! I went in knowing very little about Emilio Pucci besides the fact that he was a designer who was known for very bright and patterned fabrics, and man, he was also an incredible person. He lived an entire life before he even got to being the designer we know him as, which was honestly the coolest part of this book. His time as a soldier during World War 2 and the mere fact that he contributed such a huge role in helping the Allies get valuable information about Mussolini and the Nazis is nothing short of astounding. And his humility about it is just so amazing. The many people, whether soldiers or citizens, who did what was right in the face of unspeakable evil during WW2 are so brave in ways we can’t even fathom. I’ve never read a WW2 book that wasn’t from an Allied powers perspective, so this one was interesting and gave me a lot of new WW2 learnings from the side of the Axis powers and how the war, Mussolini’s rule, and Hitler’s reign of terror negatively impacted even the people who lived in those Axis power countries. Emilio also went through terrifying torture at the hands of the Nazis, but he never gave in, which speaks to his amazing integrity. The first half of the book was such a fascinating ride and that doesn’t even get to the part we mostly know him for, which is designing.
The book is also interspersed with interludes from Idanna Pucci, Emilio’s niece, and the author, Terence Ward, who add color to the story and discuss their journey through visiting the real places from Pucci’s past. I thought this was a really cool feature that connected the authors’ memories of Pucci to the storytelling in the book as you read it. It also gives the book a lot of heart!
The second half of the book discusses Emilio’s fashion design career and other interests. He was involved in politics as well, which was another unique thing about him that I didn’t know before. One thing that really intrigued me was that he didn’t have formal design education before getting into fashion. That was really interesting to read, especially considering how hugely well-known he became as a designer. He had many good connections across industries and was very charming and was certainly in the right place at the right time, which led to an amazing fashion career. He obviously was a very curious, worldly, and determined person. I also loved how this book discussed his inspirations for his designs and collections, which were so historically and culturally accurate as well as refreshing for the fashion at the time. I really appreciated Emilio’s devotion to giving proper inspirational credit in his work and for bringing awareness of other cultures to fashion and the wider world. He was very ahead of his time in many ways, and I can totally see how his fashion designs were truly created for the modern woman’s needs and benefited the world.
The only thing I would say would improve this book is that at the end, it ended on a bit of a cliffhanger. Maybe I just didn’t want the book to end, but I think I was taken aback by how Idanna’s memories of her uncle just cut into the story quickly towards the end. Maybe it felt like there was a bit of a time jump there, but I fully turned the page expecting a bit of continuation from what I’d just read. Of course, the resolution happened in the section of Idanna’s memories, but that transition was just a bit jarring for me. The other interludes didn’t seem as abrupt as the one at the end. Again, maybe I just didn’t want the book to end too soon, as I was really enjoying it. Another thing that might help readers is a glossary of characters at the beginning, as there were many important people in Pucci’s life. But other than those two things, this book was amazing! I can’t wait to read it again next year when it is published. Thank you to Terence Ward and Idanna Pucci for bringing such an incredible and well-rounded story of Emilio Pucci to the world. What a great honor to his memory and legacy. ❤️
I’ve read A LOT of fashion non-fiction books, especially designer biographies, as it is one of my favorite book categories, and this one was 100% in my top five! I was SO excited when I saw this book was available on NetGalley, and it definitely lived up to my expectations. I will 100% be buying this when it publishes next year and rereading it. It’s definitely one of those books that lodges in your brain that you keep thinking about or telling people little facts about. I love learning about notable fashion designers from respected journalists and authors, and this book was no exception! I went in knowing very little about Emilio Pucci besides the fact that he was a designer who was known for very bright and patterned fabrics, and man, he was also an incredible person. He lived an entire life before he even got to being the designer we know him as, which was honestly the coolest part of this book. His time as a soldier during World War 2 and the mere fact that he contributed such a huge role in helping the Allies get valuable information about Mussolini and the Nazis is nothing short of astounding. And his humility about it is just so amazing. The many people, whether soldiers or citizens, who did what was right in the face of unspeakable evil during WW2 are so brave in ways we can’t even fathom. I’ve never read a WW2 book that wasn’t from an Allied powers perspective, so this one was interesting and gave me a lot of new WW2 learnings from the side of the Axis powers and how the war, Mussolini’s rule, and Hitler’s reign of terror negatively impacted even the people who lived in those Axis power countries. Emilio also went through terrifying torture at the hands of the Nazis, but he never gave in, which speaks to his amazing integrity. The first half of the book was such a fascinating ride and that doesn’t even get to the part we mostly know him for, which is designing.
The book is also interspersed with interludes from Idanna Pucci, Emilio’s niece, and the author, Terence Ward, who add color to the story and discuss their journey through visiting the real places from Pucci’s past. I thought this was a really cool feature that connected the authors’ memories of Pucci to the storytelling in the book as you read it. It also gives the book a lot of heart!
The second half of the book discusses Emilio’s fashion design career and other interests. He was involved in politics as well, which was another unique thing about him that I didn’t know before. One thing that really intrigued me was that he didn’t have formal design education before getting into fashion. That was really interesting to read, especially considering how hugely well-known he became as a designer. He had many good connections across industries and was very charming and was certainly in the right place at the right time, which led to an amazing fashion career. He obviously was a very curious, worldly, and determined person. I also loved how this book discussed his inspirations for his designs and collections, which were so historically and culturally accurate as well as refreshing for the fashion at the time. I really appreciated Emilio’s devotion to giving proper inspirational credit in his work and for bringing awareness of other cultures to fashion and the wider world. He was very ahead of his time in many ways, and I can totally see how his fashion designs were truly created for the modern woman’s needs and benefited the world.
The only thing I would say would improve this book is that at the end, it ended on a bit of a cliffhanger. Maybe I just didn’t want the book to end, but I think I was taken aback by how Idanna’s memories of her uncle just cut into the story quickly towards the end. Maybe it felt like there was a bit of a time jump there, but I fully turned the page expecting a bit of continuation from what I’d just read. Of course, the resolution happened in the section of Idanna’s memories, but that transition was just a bit jarring for me. The other interludes didn’t seem as abrupt as the one at the end. Again, maybe I just didn’t want the book to end too soon, as I was really enjoying it. Another thing that might help readers is a glossary of characters at the beginning, as there were many important people in Pucci’s life. But other than those two things, this book was amazing! I can’t wait to read it again next year when it is published. Thank you to Terence Ward and Idanna Pucci for bringing such an incredible and well-rounded story of Emilio Pucci to the world. What a great honor to his memory and legacy. ❤️
February 21, 2026
I had no idea Emilio Pucci had a whole WWII fighter-pilot era before becoming a fashion icon. He even helped expose Mussolini’s son-in-law’s diaries—stuff movies are made of. If you are into WWII history, and getting the Italian side, you'd find this book super interesting. The book itself was a little slow so it’s definitely not a casual read. But if you’re into Pucci or WWII, it’s worth the dive.
Shoutout to Goodreads Giveaways for the copy! 🚀📚
Shoutout to Goodreads Giveaways for the copy! 🚀📚
November 22, 2025
Emilio Pucci, The Astonishing Odyssey of a Fashion Icon
Authors: Terence Ward; Idanna Pucci
The Drama of War and Postwar Italy Through the Life of One of Its Most Celebrated Icons
When I think of fashion designer Emilio Pucci, I can’t help but think of his exuberant, vibrant, swirling, near psychedelic colors creating fluid, kaleidoscope-like fabrics.
And everyone from Marilyn Monroe (who loved the designer so much that she was buried in a Pucci design) to Jackie Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor and of course, Sophia Loren, clamored to wear his eye-catching dresses that the publishers say “personify La Dolce Vita” and the new era of liberating, jet-setting style of the 1960s. Today, it’s reported that Margot Robbie and Beyoncé are equally smitten with the signature designs.
Therefore, it’s so fitting (no pun intended) ~ that this book will be officially published. February 10, 2026, just in time for Fashion Week 2026 ~ Feb 11-16.
As characterized by the book’s publisher, St. Martin’s Press, “What few know about Pucci, is that before creating his world-famous fashions, he played a critical role in the war against the Nazis (and by extension, the Italian Fascists), risking his life to smuggle out to the Allies one of the most important documents of World War II.”
Clearly a passion project, the book is co-authored by one of Pucci’s nieces: Idanna. The authors note that they “bring to life Italy’s darkest and brightest days.”
The book chronicles the Pucci family, a wealthy, aristocratic clan, who called Florence home for seven centuries. It was lovely to read of Emilio’s early years and the family traditions, especially on holiday at the beach. It was not a total surprise to learn the family traveled in the social strata that included the likes of Italian elites, including Gianni Agnelli and his sister, Susanna, and later, along with Mussolini, his favorite daughter, Edda, and her husband, Count Galeazzo Ciano. Edda turned against her father and officially renounced him following the Count’s vote against Mussolini in 1943. Soon after, her father had the Count murdered. Reasonable reason for a split, you’d have to agree… 😧 When WWII broke out, Emilio and his brother, Puccio Pucci di Barsento enlisted in the Italian war effort as officer pilots. Puccio became an accomplished lawyer, architect, and continued to pilot; later he shared the Palazzo Pucci with Emilio, who used half of the Florence Palazzo as the working headquarters of his fashion empire.
In my view, there are two thrilling elements to the Pucci story: how Emilio aided Edda and her children in Switzerland and helped her leverage the diaries of her husband, the Count, coveted by the Americans and feared by the Nazi’s because they would expose the Fascist regime’s manipulations and subsequent rise to power as they colluded with the Nazi regime. Alan Dulles is the intriguing player in the diaries’ sale and delivery to the Americans.
The other captivating element is, of course, Emilio's unlikely, meteoric career as a global fashion designer and brand, after the War. (I love the American pluckiness in discovering his fashion on the ski slope ~ hence the cover image ~ along with Diana Vreeland’s career-making plot)
What could have been a fast-paced, espionage war novel on the order of, I daresay, a John le Carré spy novel; leading to a kind of buzzy, fast-paced swinging Fellini-esque film that blended fantasy, dreams, and reality with that distinctive, Italian visual style, all while leading the reader to the post-war evolution when Emilio surprisingly captured his “lightening in a bottle” fashion status that celebrated La Dolce Vita…
Alas, the book dragged on for me. There is a lot of repetition of the “stuck in limbo" period when Emilio and Edda are safeguarded in Switzerland with the precious diaries that are sought after by both the Nazis and the Americans; yet neither side seemed motivated by any real eagerness to achieve their desired outcome. So the story plays out in almost a metronomic rhythm. I was eager for something to happen… Anything… I was in simpatico with the stagnation from a historical standpoint, but needed something to keep interested in the book’s telling. The slow pace and lack of any real activity on the part of the authorities felt like it was carried over to the book itself. In real time. With some expert editing, this could have been avoided, I think.
I understood that Emilio’s melancholy situation was bleak and he was a loyal friend and hero… By the same token, that enduring hardship, dedication, and courage could have been tied to his post-war journey to the heights of the glamorous world of fashion. It could have been linked as a catalyst that propelled his motivation to succeed. But the emotions seemed to disappear like the diaries themselves.
The book was rather more a series of history facts ~ a ton of citations. I had the sense that this was a kind textbook telling to set the record straight. I wished for more personality. More character-driven story telling. More dialogue. More, well, style… After all, Emilio was fashion royalty. Surely there could also have been visuals and sketches included?
I understand that Idanna and Terrance were probably aiming to honor Emilio but I felt the book missed an opportunity to inform and engage ~ to let us know about Emilio the man. His passions and journey; the intimacy of his relationships, his beliefs, thoughts about how he conducted his business and his circle of family and friends. I wanted to feel his charm. As it is, those elements are sprinkled in; not the motivating core of the novel.
Nevertheless, it is an intriguing story of a time that regrettably resonates today with political movements duping and taking advantage of the populace. I note this because the authors go to great lengths to highlight that the Italian people did not want Fascism ~ that they were tricked into going along with Il Duce …
From the novel, I learned that historical point of view, and why that’s so significant to Italians today, along with their main story that of Emilio’s role in the war and resistance to Italian Fascism and to the Nazis.
I enjoyed reading about his proud Italian heritage, the sensual, mythic beauty of Capri and its role in shaping Emilio, along with the island’s inspiration for many of his creations.
Yet, I felt the authors could have written a more engaging story of a life filled with privilege, heartbreak, fortitude, and then, after the war, just as Italians needed to remake their country, how he needed to remake himself.
The publishers write: “Pucci returned home bruised in body and soul, having endured trials that would have broken many, but, like Italy itself, rose from the ashes, and went on to design some of the most exuberant fashion of all time.” But I didn’t feel like it showed us, the reader, how…
The pursuit of his metier clearly was an artful release from the past at a time when the world was open to being truly free. His fashions were adored because, for the first time, women felt free, unencumbered by wearing his liberating fashions. And as the publisher notes, his influence extended to helping “usher in a new era of creativity in Italy, which again became a mecca of fashion, art, design, film, and more.” I wanted more art, more conflict, and more personal growth. Perhaps there’s a follow on novel to come?
Thank you to Net Galley and St. Martin’s Press for providing an early eArc for review.
Authors: Terence Ward; Idanna Pucci
The Drama of War and Postwar Italy Through the Life of One of Its Most Celebrated Icons
When I think of fashion designer Emilio Pucci, I can’t help but think of his exuberant, vibrant, swirling, near psychedelic colors creating fluid, kaleidoscope-like fabrics.
And everyone from Marilyn Monroe (who loved the designer so much that she was buried in a Pucci design) to Jackie Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor and of course, Sophia Loren, clamored to wear his eye-catching dresses that the publishers say “personify La Dolce Vita” and the new era of liberating, jet-setting style of the 1960s. Today, it’s reported that Margot Robbie and Beyoncé are equally smitten with the signature designs.
Therefore, it’s so fitting (no pun intended) ~ that this book will be officially published. February 10, 2026, just in time for Fashion Week 2026 ~ Feb 11-16.
As characterized by the book’s publisher, St. Martin’s Press, “What few know about Pucci, is that before creating his world-famous fashions, he played a critical role in the war against the Nazis (and by extension, the Italian Fascists), risking his life to smuggle out to the Allies one of the most important documents of World War II.”
Clearly a passion project, the book is co-authored by one of Pucci’s nieces: Idanna. The authors note that they “bring to life Italy’s darkest and brightest days.”
The book chronicles the Pucci family, a wealthy, aristocratic clan, who called Florence home for seven centuries. It was lovely to read of Emilio’s early years and the family traditions, especially on holiday at the beach. It was not a total surprise to learn the family traveled in the social strata that included the likes of Italian elites, including Gianni Agnelli and his sister, Susanna, and later, along with Mussolini, his favorite daughter, Edda, and her husband, Count Galeazzo Ciano. Edda turned against her father and officially renounced him following the Count’s vote against Mussolini in 1943. Soon after, her father had the Count murdered. Reasonable reason for a split, you’d have to agree… 😧 When WWII broke out, Emilio and his brother, Puccio Pucci di Barsento enlisted in the Italian war effort as officer pilots. Puccio became an accomplished lawyer, architect, and continued to pilot; later he shared the Palazzo Pucci with Emilio, who used half of the Florence Palazzo as the working headquarters of his fashion empire.
In my view, there are two thrilling elements to the Pucci story: how Emilio aided Edda and her children in Switzerland and helped her leverage the diaries of her husband, the Count, coveted by the Americans and feared by the Nazi’s because they would expose the Fascist regime’s manipulations and subsequent rise to power as they colluded with the Nazi regime. Alan Dulles is the intriguing player in the diaries’ sale and delivery to the Americans.
The other captivating element is, of course, Emilio's unlikely, meteoric career as a global fashion designer and brand, after the War. (I love the American pluckiness in discovering his fashion on the ski slope ~ hence the cover image ~ along with Diana Vreeland’s career-making plot)
What could have been a fast-paced, espionage war novel on the order of, I daresay, a John le Carré spy novel; leading to a kind of buzzy, fast-paced swinging Fellini-esque film that blended fantasy, dreams, and reality with that distinctive, Italian visual style, all while leading the reader to the post-war evolution when Emilio surprisingly captured his “lightening in a bottle” fashion status that celebrated La Dolce Vita…
Alas, the book dragged on for me. There is a lot of repetition of the “stuck in limbo" period when Emilio and Edda are safeguarded in Switzerland with the precious diaries that are sought after by both the Nazis and the Americans; yet neither side seemed motivated by any real eagerness to achieve their desired outcome. So the story plays out in almost a metronomic rhythm. I was eager for something to happen… Anything… I was in simpatico with the stagnation from a historical standpoint, but needed something to keep interested in the book’s telling. The slow pace and lack of any real activity on the part of the authorities felt like it was carried over to the book itself. In real time. With some expert editing, this could have been avoided, I think.
I understood that Emilio’s melancholy situation was bleak and he was a loyal friend and hero… By the same token, that enduring hardship, dedication, and courage could have been tied to his post-war journey to the heights of the glamorous world of fashion. It could have been linked as a catalyst that propelled his motivation to succeed. But the emotions seemed to disappear like the diaries themselves.
The book was rather more a series of history facts ~ a ton of citations. I had the sense that this was a kind textbook telling to set the record straight. I wished for more personality. More character-driven story telling. More dialogue. More, well, style… After all, Emilio was fashion royalty. Surely there could also have been visuals and sketches included?
I understand that Idanna and Terrance were probably aiming to honor Emilio but I felt the book missed an opportunity to inform and engage ~ to let us know about Emilio the man. His passions and journey; the intimacy of his relationships, his beliefs, thoughts about how he conducted his business and his circle of family and friends. I wanted to feel his charm. As it is, those elements are sprinkled in; not the motivating core of the novel.
Nevertheless, it is an intriguing story of a time that regrettably resonates today with political movements duping and taking advantage of the populace. I note this because the authors go to great lengths to highlight that the Italian people did not want Fascism ~ that they were tricked into going along with Il Duce …
From the novel, I learned that historical point of view, and why that’s so significant to Italians today, along with their main story that of Emilio’s role in the war and resistance to Italian Fascism and to the Nazis.
I enjoyed reading about his proud Italian heritage, the sensual, mythic beauty of Capri and its role in shaping Emilio, along with the island’s inspiration for many of his creations.
Yet, I felt the authors could have written a more engaging story of a life filled with privilege, heartbreak, fortitude, and then, after the war, just as Italians needed to remake their country, how he needed to remake himself.
The publishers write: “Pucci returned home bruised in body and soul, having endured trials that would have broken many, but, like Italy itself, rose from the ashes, and went on to design some of the most exuberant fashion of all time.” But I didn’t feel like it showed us, the reader, how…
The pursuit of his metier clearly was an artful release from the past at a time when the world was open to being truly free. His fashions were adored because, for the first time, women felt free, unencumbered by wearing his liberating fashions. And as the publisher notes, his influence extended to helping “usher in a new era of creativity in Italy, which again became a mecca of fashion, art, design, film, and more.” I wanted more art, more conflict, and more personal growth. Perhaps there’s a follow on novel to come?
Thank you to Net Galley and St. Martin’s Press for providing an early eArc for review.
April 16, 2026
Rating: 4.25* of five
The Publisher Says: The Drama of War and Postwar Italy Through the Life of One of Its Most Celebrated Icons
When people think of fashion designer Emilio Pucci, it is of his bright, swirling colors and easy, freeing fabrics, and everyone from Sophia Loren to Jackie Kennedy donning the eye-catching dresses that personify La Dolce Vita. What few know about Pucci, however, is that before creating his world-famous fashions, he played a critical role in the war against the Nazis, risking his life to smuggle out to the Allies one of the most important documents of World War II.
The authors bring to life Italy’s darkest and brightest days, with the extraordinary Emilio Pucci at its center. Italy at the end of the war was broken, and Florence, which the Pucci family had called home for seven centuries, lay in ruins. Pucci returned home bruised in body and soul, having endured trials that would have broken many, but, like Italy itself, rose from the ashes, and went on to design some of the most exuberant fashion of all time. He helped usher in a new era of creativity in Italy, which again became a mecca of fashion, art, design, film, and more.
A host of supporting characters—including Mussolini’s daughter and Allen Dulles, and, most importantly, the timeless city of Florence and the mythic island of Capri—enrich this compelling narrative that will draw readers of all kinds, from war and history buffs, to fashionistas and fans of espionage thrillers along with the millions of readers who devour books about Italy and her many charms.
I RECEIVED A DRC FROM THE PUBLISHER VIA NETGALLEY. THANK YOU.
My Review: Born in the Kingdom of Italy midway through World War I, Pucci was in the prime of his life during WWII becoming a flyer in the Royal Italian Air Force; he was an aristocrat, deeply in the circles familiar with Mussolini and was his daughter Edda Ciano's BFF. He was responsible for the Ciano Diaries reaching Allied hands and Edda Ciano escaping the Germans' tender ministrations as the daughter of a traitor to the German cause. (Husband Galeazzo not so much; murdered by the Gestapo.) Pucci was himself tortured by the Gestapo as a follow-on consequence of being involved with Edda and her family. No great revelations were given by him, apparently.
It interested me that Idanna Pucci, his niece, co-created the story told herein. Pucci's daughter Laudomia maintains the Pucci archives; her mother Cristina is still living; how is it neither of them chose to write this fascinating story? It's possible the Idanna Pucci, being their elder, simply had more perspective; and she is an author of four decades' standing and her husband Ward (ten years her junior) slightly less duration at twenty-plus years. The couple have also produced documentaries.
It is clear Pucci deserves this attention because he was always somewhere interesting as world events unfolded. Never central, but frequently spotlighted, as he was after the frankly horrifying 1966 Florentine floods when he was instrumental in getting the US fashion industry as well as the general population to volunteer in the monumental cleanup as well as donate money and material aid. It is no exaggeration to say the assistance provided at his behest changed many Florentine lives.
Pucci's stamp on the pop culture of the 1960s was immense, as well. His color palette and choices of fabrics for his collections were widely emulated. He was well-enough known that my kid-self knew his name. I saw his work knowingly, because Braniff was my mother's preferred airline and their stewardesses (it's what they were called in those days) proudly discussed their suits as designed by Pucci. It accords well with the 1937 Reed College graduate's entire life spent in very classy social life...he designed the Reed College ski team's togs...and reinforces the perception of him as a member of a global elite.
It was a very interesting read that felt less like a biography (despite its chronological organization) than it did a family chat. If I'd been invited to an Easter feast in Palazzo Pucci, this is the kind of knowledge I'd've expected to come away with. Only here it's in depth and extensively footnoted.
Fashionistas, Italian and WWII as well as 1960s culture's history buffs are strongly encouraged to get themselves a copy. I suspect the most disappointment will be felt by the fashionistas, as that genre's devoted readers are not always terribly interested in name-dropping outside their area of fascination. Pucci being who he was, a staid local politician as well as a trendsetting designer, there are many diversions from purely the fashion world. It is, I promise, worth all y'all's time to venture a bit outside the boundaries of subject-matter interest. On all sides of Pucci's fascinating life's activities.
The Publisher Says: The Drama of War and Postwar Italy Through the Life of One of Its Most Celebrated Icons
When people think of fashion designer Emilio Pucci, it is of his bright, swirling colors and easy, freeing fabrics, and everyone from Sophia Loren to Jackie Kennedy donning the eye-catching dresses that personify La Dolce Vita. What few know about Pucci, however, is that before creating his world-famous fashions, he played a critical role in the war against the Nazis, risking his life to smuggle out to the Allies one of the most important documents of World War II.
The authors bring to life Italy’s darkest and brightest days, with the extraordinary Emilio Pucci at its center. Italy at the end of the war was broken, and Florence, which the Pucci family had called home for seven centuries, lay in ruins. Pucci returned home bruised in body and soul, having endured trials that would have broken many, but, like Italy itself, rose from the ashes, and went on to design some of the most exuberant fashion of all time. He helped usher in a new era of creativity in Italy, which again became a mecca of fashion, art, design, film, and more.
A host of supporting characters—including Mussolini’s daughter and Allen Dulles, and, most importantly, the timeless city of Florence and the mythic island of Capri—enrich this compelling narrative that will draw readers of all kinds, from war and history buffs, to fashionistas and fans of espionage thrillers along with the millions of readers who devour books about Italy and her many charms.
I RECEIVED A DRC FROM THE PUBLISHER VIA NETGALLEY. THANK YOU.
My Review: Born in the Kingdom of Italy midway through World War I, Pucci was in the prime of his life during WWII becoming a flyer in the Royal Italian Air Force; he was an aristocrat, deeply in the circles familiar with Mussolini and was his daughter Edda Ciano's BFF. He was responsible for the Ciano Diaries reaching Allied hands and Edda Ciano escaping the Germans' tender ministrations as the daughter of a traitor to the German cause. (Husband Galeazzo not so much; murdered by the Gestapo.) Pucci was himself tortured by the Gestapo as a follow-on consequence of being involved with Edda and her family. No great revelations were given by him, apparently.
It interested me that Idanna Pucci, his niece, co-created the story told herein. Pucci's daughter Laudomia maintains the Pucci archives; her mother Cristina is still living; how is it neither of them chose to write this fascinating story? It's possible the Idanna Pucci, being their elder, simply had more perspective; and she is an author of four decades' standing and her husband Ward (ten years her junior) slightly less duration at twenty-plus years. The couple have also produced documentaries.
It is clear Pucci deserves this attention because he was always somewhere interesting as world events unfolded. Never central, but frequently spotlighted, as he was after the frankly horrifying 1966 Florentine floods when he was instrumental in getting the US fashion industry as well as the general population to volunteer in the monumental cleanup as well as donate money and material aid. It is no exaggeration to say the assistance provided at his behest changed many Florentine lives.
Pucci's stamp on the pop culture of the 1960s was immense, as well. His color palette and choices of fabrics for his collections were widely emulated. He was well-enough known that my kid-self knew his name. I saw his work knowingly, because Braniff was my mother's preferred airline and their stewardesses (it's what they were called in those days) proudly discussed their suits as designed by Pucci. It accords well with the 1937 Reed College graduate's entire life spent in very classy social life...he designed the Reed College ski team's togs...and reinforces the perception of him as a member of a global elite.
It was a very interesting read that felt less like a biography (despite its chronological organization) than it did a family chat. If I'd been invited to an Easter feast in Palazzo Pucci, this is the kind of knowledge I'd've expected to come away with. Only here it's in depth and extensively footnoted.
Fashionistas, Italian and WWII as well as 1960s culture's history buffs are strongly encouraged to get themselves a copy. I suspect the most disappointment will be felt by the fashionistas, as that genre's devoted readers are not always terribly interested in name-dropping outside their area of fascination. Pucci being who he was, a staid local politician as well as a trendsetting designer, there are many diversions from purely the fashion world. It is, I promise, worth all y'all's time to venture a bit outside the boundaries of subject-matter interest. On all sides of Pucci's fascinating life's activities.
Review of advance copy received from Netgalley
We tend to recognize people for their celebrated achievements in our own lifetime, without considering the past. Yet many, especially of the mid-20th century, committed brave acts for their country or beliefs before going on to the field in which they became famous. While reading "Emilio Pucci," I was reminded of Roald Dahl, Ian Fleming, and David Olgivy who were British spies in their youth before becoming authors and an advertising expert, respectively.
Journalists Terence Ward and Idanna Pucci—Emilio's niece—have written a biography that proves also Emilio Pucci is known for only a fraction of his accomplishments. While Pucci's fame came from his work as a celebrity fashion designer in the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s, as a young man he was an Olympic skier, decorated military pilot, and anti-Fascist who risked his life to defend his country and values. He was also a politician and a lifelong sustainer of his beloved home city of Florence and Italian culture.
The authors' thorough research tells the history of Italy through the lens of Pucci's life, creating a compelling narrative that often reads like a novel. While most of the book focuses on Pucci’s life during the war, the authors share enough detail of his heritage and early years to see how his character and values were formed. The short chapters keep the book fast-paced. The first two thirds of the book focus on Pucci's efforts to get the Ciano Diaries out of Italy and into the hands of the Allies. The last third of the book details Pucci's rise in the fashion world and reveals a man with a creative, visionary spirit who seized opportunity when it came. It was interesting to learn that Pucci attended Reed College, the same school Steve Jobs attended.
Having lived in Italy for more than 25 years, I recognized the names of people in Pucci's social circle; readers unfamiliar with Italian history or culture may not. The occasional asides about people who are peripherally connect to Pucci offer some insight to the culture of the time, yet also felt unnecessary. Additionally, the closing chapters recounting Idanna's childhood reveal more about life in a Florentine villa as a child than her impressions of Uncle Emilio. While well written, they felt more self-serving than pertinent to this book.
Emilio Pucci liked to say he, “did the right things at the right moment.” That phrase sums up his rich and varied life. "Emilio Pucci" will appeal to readers interested in Italian history during the period of World War II and the years immediately following the war as well as those who want to understand the life of the man behind the Pucci style.
Thank you to NetGalley and St. Martin's Press for an advanced reader copy in exchange for an honest review. All opinions are my own.
#netgalley #emiliopucci
Journalists Terence Ward and Idanna Pucci—Emilio's niece—have written a biography that proves also Emilio Pucci is known for only a fraction of his accomplishments. While Pucci's fame came from his work as a celebrity fashion designer in the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s, as a young man he was an Olympic skier, decorated military pilot, and anti-Fascist who risked his life to defend his country and values. He was also a politician and a lifelong sustainer of his beloved home city of Florence and Italian culture.
The authors' thorough research tells the history of Italy through the lens of Pucci's life, creating a compelling narrative that often reads like a novel. While most of the book focuses on Pucci’s life during the war, the authors share enough detail of his heritage and early years to see how his character and values were formed. The short chapters keep the book fast-paced. The first two thirds of the book focus on Pucci's efforts to get the Ciano Diaries out of Italy and into the hands of the Allies. The last third of the book details Pucci's rise in the fashion world and reveals a man with a creative, visionary spirit who seized opportunity when it came. It was interesting to learn that Pucci attended Reed College, the same school Steve Jobs attended.
Having lived in Italy for more than 25 years, I recognized the names of people in Pucci's social circle; readers unfamiliar with Italian history or culture may not. The occasional asides about people who are peripherally connect to Pucci offer some insight to the culture of the time, yet also felt unnecessary. Additionally, the closing chapters recounting Idanna's childhood reveal more about life in a Florentine villa as a child than her impressions of Uncle Emilio. While well written, they felt more self-serving than pertinent to this book.
Emilio Pucci liked to say he, “did the right things at the right moment.” That phrase sums up his rich and varied life. "Emilio Pucci" will appeal to readers interested in Italian history during the period of World War II and the years immediately following the war as well as those who want to understand the life of the man behind the Pucci style.
Thank you to NetGalley and St. Martin's Press for an advanced reader copy in exchange for an honest review. All opinions are my own.
#netgalley #emiliopucci
Review of advance copy received from Netgalley
After reading Emilio Pucci, what stands out to me most is this man's courageous heroism in World War II. I had not heard of him before but as a frequent visitor to Italy, my ongoing quest to learn more about Italy in this important era captured my attention. Emilio grew up in breathtaking Florence and he spent time in many other locations. Not only did he play a huge role in clandestine smuggling missions including the critical Ciano Diaries (extremely powerful documents) but he was also a torpedo bomber pilot. He was tortured terribly by the Germans with lasting consequences but still did not give anything away.
After the war, Pucci became a fashion innovator and searched for stretch fabric for skiwear. Though without formal training, he was known for his futurist and traditional colours, fabrics and patterns. His collections were liberating and less expensive than those in Paris. In New York City, he had connections to Greta Garbo and Audrey Hepburn. There is still more! Pucci became involved in politics. He strikes me as extremely resilient, determined, enterprising, brilliant, disciplined, confident yet humble. His life was certainly gripping!
Elements of history during World War II are described including Mussolini's reign, the starvation of the Napoli (the tropical fish story is particularly harrowing), Nazi gold sources, deportations, and the killing of Italians by Italians. I enjoyed the information about the Pucci family and close friends of Emilio. Reading about this amazing man was a revelation.
After the war, Pucci became a fashion innovator and searched for stretch fabric for skiwear. Though without formal training, he was known for his futurist and traditional colours, fabrics and patterns. His collections were liberating and less expensive than those in Paris. In New York City, he had connections to Greta Garbo and Audrey Hepburn. There is still more! Pucci became involved in politics. He strikes me as extremely resilient, determined, enterprising, brilliant, disciplined, confident yet humble. His life was certainly gripping!
Elements of history during World War II are described including Mussolini's reign, the starvation of the Napoli (the tropical fish story is particularly harrowing), Nazi gold sources, deportations, and the killing of Italians by Italians. I enjoyed the information about the Pucci family and close friends of Emilio. Reading about this amazing man was a revelation.
Review of advance copy received from Netgalley
I really knew nothing about this designer (Emilio Pucci 1915-1992) except his name but I live to learn about people do was excited to receive this ARC (thank you NetGalley and St. Martin’s Press).
What a fascinating man: Olympic athlete, politician, pilot in Mussolini’s Air Force (after serving in Egypt he returned to Italy violently opposed to its fascist regime) and designer of clothing (known as the Prince of Prints for his bright swirling colored prints), designer for Jackie Kennedy and Sophia Loren, and a “pioneer”of a “synthetic stretch jersey.” Based on diaries, interviews and declassified records, this book certainly brings to life Pucci’s story. I was intrigued that he was the one who brought Mussolini’s son-in-law’s diaries to the Allies which resulted in his imprisonment by the Nazis.
Pucci was Florentine by birth so having this city ( one of my favorites) as a background is a plus for me. His return after WWII ushered in a “new era of creativity” in Italy - the beautiful land of art in all its myriad forms.
I add that the co-author is Pucci’s niece - bringing an added perspective to Pucci’s life. He certainly was a colorful (no pun intended) man.
This is a book for lovers of history, Italy, thrillers or fashion/fashion design.
What a fascinating man: Olympic athlete, politician, pilot in Mussolini’s Air Force (after serving in Egypt he returned to Italy violently opposed to its fascist regime) and designer of clothing (known as the Prince of Prints for his bright swirling colored prints), designer for Jackie Kennedy and Sophia Loren, and a “pioneer”of a “synthetic stretch jersey.” Based on diaries, interviews and declassified records, this book certainly brings to life Pucci’s story. I was intrigued that he was the one who brought Mussolini’s son-in-law’s diaries to the Allies which resulted in his imprisonment by the Nazis.
Pucci was Florentine by birth so having this city ( one of my favorites) as a background is a plus for me. His return after WWII ushered in a “new era of creativity” in Italy - the beautiful land of art in all its myriad forms.
I add that the co-author is Pucci’s niece - bringing an added perspective to Pucci’s life. He certainly was a colorful (no pun intended) man.
This is a book for lovers of history, Italy, thrillers or fashion/fashion design.
February 19, 2026
Emilio Pucci, an innovator in fashion in the 1960s with his vibrant colors and clothes made for movement and worn by the rich and famous, was from an aristocratic family in Florence, Italy. How he achieved such a dichotomy in his life from a privileged childhood to his war years as a pilot forced to join forces with the Germans to being injured and months of recuperation is only part of the story. What remained largely unknown until after his death is the harrowing story of his driving a friend, Countess Edda Ciano (daughter of Benito Mussolini) to Switzerland who was hiding her deceased husband’s diaries and wanted to get them to safety. This kind deed exacts the near death of Emilio resulting in lifetime scars. To see emerge from such a dark time in his life and become then be able to paint such vibrant scenes on scarfs and give such a refreshment to the world is a story that will linger long after one lays down the finished story by authors #Terrence Ward and #IdannaPucci. Who benefits rom this book: scholars of history whether war or Florentino history or the individual who is interested in what happened to Italy in WWII. Many thanks to #StMartinsPress and #NetGallery for a digital advance copy of this book; the reflections and review are my opinions.
Review of advance copy received from Goodreads Giveaways
Emilio Pucci is best known for being an Italian fashion designer that created everything from capri pants to wrinkle-free fabrics. However, before he began designing clothes, he was a fighter pilot during WWII and was involved in bringing to light diaries from Mussolini's son-in-law that documented conversations between Mussolini and Hitler at the start of the war.
The subtitle of the book is "The Astonishing Odyssey of a Fashion Icon" and the cover shows the iconic photo of Pucci outfitting his then girlfriend in ski cloths on the slopes in Switzerland. That would imply that the book focuses on how he became a fashion designer. However, at least 75% of the book actually focuses on WWII and his role in it.
I am always interested in WWII history and this was definitely an interesting story. You don't often read books from the Italian perspective of the war. I did find the book a bit difficult to follow. Some of the writing was off. And it was very slow and detailed. If you are interested in Pucci or WWII history, you would be interested in this, but it's not for the casual reader.
I received an advance review copy for free and I am leaving this review voluntarily.
The subtitle of the book is "The Astonishing Odyssey of a Fashion Icon" and the cover shows the iconic photo of Pucci outfitting his then girlfriend in ski cloths on the slopes in Switzerland. That would imply that the book focuses on how he became a fashion designer. However, at least 75% of the book actually focuses on WWII and his role in it.
I am always interested in WWII history and this was definitely an interesting story. You don't often read books from the Italian perspective of the war. I did find the book a bit difficult to follow. Some of the writing was off. And it was very slow and detailed. If you are interested in Pucci or WWII history, you would be interested in this, but it's not for the casual reader.
I received an advance review copy for free and I am leaving this review voluntarily.
Review of advance copy received from Netgalley
This book was a wealth of information about Italy’s part in WWII. I learned a lot about Mussolini and the entire Italian government as well as their relationship to the Axis, especially Hitler. And I appreciate this insight into little known facts of WWII.
And of course, the history of the Pucci family, their various contributions to both Italy and the Allies, was an eye opener.
I appreciate this early reader’s copy from Net Galley and the publisher, St. Martin's Press, in exchange for an honest review.
And of course, the history of the Pucci family, their various contributions to both Italy and the Allies, was an eye opener.
I appreciate this early reader’s copy from Net Galley and the publisher, St. Martin's Press, in exchange for an honest review.
March 20, 2026
If you are a fiction reader that wants to read more nonfiction, this book is for you. I checked a couple times while reading that this was actually nonfiction. It reads like a novel… a novel that would make an amazing movie! Can you imagine how beautiful that would be?!
Thank you St. Martin's Press and NetGalley. #NetGalley.
April 9, 2026
Fascinating but a bit hard to get into. I usually write longer reviews but unfortunately don't have the time right now but wanted to get my rating in. Thank you to NetGalley and the publisher for an ARC.
February 16, 2026
This was a Goodreads Giveaway. It was a very interesting read, however I thought it would be a biography of Emilio Pucci. It was more the history of Fascism in Italy (specifically Florence) with intersections of Pucci, until the latter part of the book. So much information at once that I had to read it in small doses. But I did learn a lot, so not sorry I took the time. And Pucci was quite a man. It seemed there was little that he could not do well.
March 15, 2026
A history of fashion designer EMILIO PUCCI.
April 3, 2026
I enjoyed the first part of the book and learning about the history. Once it switched over to the fashion stuff, it lost me.
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