I first experienced Delphi in 1994. In the company of twelve students and my then wife, who was also my teaching partner. Having been a world history teacher for most of the previous twenty-two years, with a particular fascination for ancient Greece, my anticipation was decidedly high.
I will never forget walking up the Sacred Way into Apollo's precinct. It was a hot day in June. Every climbing step immersed me further in the wild beauty of the place. Every step revealed the why of the place. The ruined temple above me, framed by Mount Parnasus, beckoned like a Siren, while behind me the Valley of the Muses, the circular Temple to Athena, and glimpses of the Gulf of Corinth, did nothing but enhance the sublimity of the setting for this, the very heartbeat of Greece. The air was perfumed with sage, and birdsong provided the soundtrack. Everything about the place seemed enchanted and confirmed the reasons for the site's existence. I've been so fortunate to return to this transcendent spot numerous times.
Mr. Broad's narrative, The Oracle, made the place come alive again in my memories. This book provides a comprehensive overview of Delphi and its Pythia, from,what can be gleaned about its origins and activities, through the glory years and beyond, to its decline, plundering, abandonment, and resurrection. All of this information fills the first third of the book.
Roughly, the next third retells the story of the scientists who labored to uncover the oracle's secrets. The story becomes a mystery and the team of scientific detectives, eventually numbering four, who interpret the clues in the earth to answer the biggest questions: why this spot? why its vaunted reputation and persistence through millenia?
It turns out, the answers lay in geology, archaeology, chemistry, and religious fervor. Together, these varied elements entwined with the spectacular setting to create and sustain the richly deserved reputation of the women who communed with, and spoke for, the god of light, music, rationality, and truth. It's an amazing tale.
My only quibble with the text, and it's a minor complaint, is that in the last two chapters the author chooses to explore, and endorse, the anti-reductionist critique of the scientific method, which was the very technique used to deliver up Delphi's secrets. The epilogue seemed to me particularly clumsy, as Mr. Broad waxes poetic about the place and the priestess.
Upon reflection though, I can fully understand how this place, its mythic status and sublime setting, can entice even the most rational into flights of speculation and inspiration.