[3.5 stars rounded down]
Following four generations of a family business (ending with the author’s father in the 90s), The Spinach King is a deep dive into what it looked like to industrialize the farming industry in the mid-century, the ways an all-powerful patriarch can control a family and his business, and an airing out of the author’s family drama. I went into this book primarily for a story about industrialization, secondly to have some fun with running through his family’s drama, and I did not really care about any more memoir-ish sections of the novel. I think I got what I wanted out of it with an incredible narrative style and handling of facts throughout the whole book.
The book starts slowly. And kinda badly. We are introduced to JM Seabrook - the author’s father and the youngest son of his generation - as the author knew him in his adult years. We learn about his passion for horses and coach riding, his impressive collection of suits, and the home’s very large wine cellar. It all comes back nicely as we continue through the novel, but it is a very slow and (at the time) seemingly unnecessary beginning to the rest of the story. The end of Part One gets better as it sets up the speech that JM gave in memory of his father CF Seabrook and the struggle that he had in writing it (the author’s assistance to his father is the beginning of his writing of this book). As I said, I understand that this provides necessary characterization and some future context to the rest of the book, but I really did think about putting this down. There is no need to spend pages on talking about the expansive suit collection of his father, only to start talking next about the expansive wine collection of his father (or vice-versa). Push on, though, and the rest of the story, and the author’s narrative skills, really pick up.
After Part One, we get a full exploration of the family, going back to their ancestors in England (though we very swiftly move on from there). The author explores the crossing over ancestor, his plight in America, and how the family came to settle in Deep South Jersey. As I said earlier, I picked up this book mostly for the tale of industrialization and especially what it takes to industrialize a profession that feels so distant to industrialization. I felt that Seabrook gave the perfect amount of information to be understandable to someone very unfamiliar with these processes while staying concise and on-target. I am the type of person who enjoys the intense amount of details given, so I had no problem when the author started listing off specifics such as exactly how many acres of farm CF had installed the Skinner System (irrigation) onto and what crops it served. I also especially enjoyed the section on how the farm was commissioned by the US Government in WWII to bring dehydrated foods overseas for troops and how subsequently back home this led in part to the boom in frozen food purchases. However, if you’re more into the family secrets and rich people drama side of this book, this section will probably be decently boring to you (the same way that the details on courting and relationships later was to me). For me, though, this was exactly what I was looking for in this part of the story. I was impressed with how clear and concise he kept the writing while also never skimming over the interesting details. It’s a hard balance to make that I felt Seabrook hit perfectly.
The author is good at giving little glimpses of future chapters in earlier ones. We hear mentions of the workers strike several chapters before the author’s dive into its events. Part One ends with JM revealing the probable stroke his father experienced, but it does not come up again until much later in the story. It is good at both building up on the semi-framing device of the first part and keeping the readers’ attention.
One aspect that I was not expecting was the amount of historical and developmental story about the area and its people. Seabrook Farms was nearly (essentially) a company town. Workers paid rent to housing that the Seabrooks owned, roads and buildings were built by the Seabrooks’ engineering company, and workers sent their children to the newly built school that the Seabrooks had set up. They ran the entire county. Coupling this with the fact that nearly all of their workers were either (mostly European) immigrants, Black Americans moving from the South, and Japanese Americans following their time in internment camps during WWII, the Seabrooks (especially CF in this regard) held a very high amount of control over their workers. The author is not afraid to discuss his father’s and grandfather’s treatment of these workers, their poor wages and living conditions, the ways that they played the different groups off of each other through segregation and obvious preferences, or the differing ways that they and their descendants view Seabrook Farms (the speech that concludes Part One was given to groups of Japanese Americans honoring CF’s memory, for instance). This all came to head in a long strike by the Seabrook workers and the subsequent strike breaking enacted by the family and their hired hands. There was so much more depth and interesting parts of this section that I really was not expecting and I was impressed by the skill of the author in compiling it all in such a great order. There was never too much information given too quickly nor did it slog along in all the recollection.
It's unfortunate that I'm so uninterested in the love lives and dramas of these rich people that, even though I can acknowledge that he still writes these sections well, I'm bored. The skill in writing these accounts is still very strong and perfectly detailed, but it’s just not my favorite topic in the world. I try not to hold that too much against the book, as it is definitely a preference thing to me, but I also rate largely based on my own enjoyment. Still, anyone who is interested in the ways that the heir to a large mid-century American family business spends his time in NYC, starts a relationship with a notable actress, is invited to fancy events including the wedding of the Prince of Monaco, and so forth, will enjoy Seabrook’s telling of these events. It also becomes interesting later to compare this JM to the older JM we meet at different points in the novel. For me, though, it becomes a bit of a bore to read about the initial courting and first dates of the actress by JM, followed by the initial courting and dates of the author’s mother by JM.
The novel ends on a weird tone. I get that the point is to show off where the generation is now and honoring the next one as a part of the saga, but it rubbed me the wrong way how the author tied in his family’s guilt to how they treated their black workers in the past with his choice to adopt a black toddler from Haiti (especially when he mentioned that she would be leaving her biological mother behind). I don’t want to let my own dislike of white people going to other countries to adopt not white children get in the way of my review - the author is a grown man, he can do what he wants - but it left a bad taste in my mouth personally. I thought that the section prior to this where he discusses his alcoholism following his father’s death to be a much stronger end point, especially with how he relates it back to his father’s wine cellar and his grandfather’s own abuse of substances, and I wish he had kept it with that.
Overall, a fun novel if you know that you will be interested in one of its two main parts (industrialization or rich people drama and family secrets). Seabrook writes very skillfully throughout. The audiobook is done by Dion Graham who is one of the best ever, so I highly recommend it if that’s your style.