From the time I first heard the language, I have been captivated by Spanish, the language, linguistics, and culture. My journey has been a lifelong one from hearing songs on Sesame Street to studying for years and choosing Spanish education as a life path to finally marrying into a Hispanic family. Some members of my husband’s family do not speak English, but unlike many Americans who only speak English, I switch to Spanish like riding a bicycle. I can also one up my husband by switching to the Portuguese that I studied in college but that is another story. Although I am an armchair traveler, one country my husband and I agree on wanting to explore is España. His family originally came from the town of Navarre and immigrated to El Salvador in the 1870s. I nearly studied in Madrid during one semester of college but got cold feet. We would love to visit Madrid, Sevilla, Toledo, Valencia, and Barcelona. It is in that city that both of us are at a disadvantage because Catalonians speak their own language, not to be mistaken for a dialect, that neither of us know. Catalan is a melting pot of Spanish, Italian, Arabic, Greek, and French, resulting in a unique language. That is what Catalan is: a unique culture within Castilian Spain. I may not be able to travel overseas at this point in my life, but for a day I traveled to Catalonia as I savored Colm Tóibín’s Homage to Barcelona.
Although located in the northeast corner of the Iberian peninsula, Catalonia enjoyed independence from Spain until 1714, when the main country annexed the province to become part of Spain. From 1492 until annexation, Catalan was the official language, and residents view September 11 as a day of Diada, independence from Spain. Catalonians have enjoyed a distinct identity that deepened over time. As a young man, Tóibín traveled to Barcelona and fell in love with the Catalonian people and culture. He found Barcelona to be a fascinating city with roots on both sides of the Pyrenees, enhanced by people who came to the city from all over Iberia after Franco’s death in 1975. Tóibín penned this homage during the years of 1988-1991 as Barcelona prepared to host the Olympics, an event decades in the making that highlighted how distinct Barcelona became from the rest of Spain. At the time, the city grew in modernity, complete with skyscrapers, sleek buildings, and a regional cuisine experienced in the city’s many restaurants. Catalonia was not always the province that it became following Franco’s death. In the pre Olympic years, nearly 40% of Catalonians supported independence. During the war and fascist years, Spaniards viewed Catalonians mockingly and banned the speaking of Catalan in public. The culture had been percolating for centuries. The 1992 Olympics was Barcelona’s coming out party as a modern, international city.
Artists and architects came to Barcelona from across Iberia to prepare for the 1888 Grand Exhibition. The age of Industrial Revolution heightened Barcelona’s rivalry with Madrid and this exhibition was a showcase of culture. By 1930, the city staged a second grand exhibition, and in the pre civil war years, 37% of Barcelona residents had been born outside of Catalonia. Outside of Paris, Barcelona was a center of art and culture; however, George Orwell found the city to be devoid of a distinct culture. The artists and writers who came to the city to work did so in a capitalistic environment dominated by a conservative government, one that saw Franco emerge after the civil war. Catalonians fled over the Pyrenees to safety in France and many would not return until after Franco’s death four decades later. Despite the attempt to Castellanize Catalonians, Barcelona was home to a myriad of talented artistic talents starting with the 1888 Grand Exhibition. Picasso came to Barcelona to work as a teenager in 1895. Although he also studied in Paris, Picasso had been influenced by Casas and Rusiñol who also studied in Barcelona. The city would be home to Picasso during his Blue Period. It is where he painted La Celestina and El Guitarrista Viejo. By the time he began his cubist period in 1909, Picasso left the city. He would not display any paintings in the city until after Franco’s death, which is why Americans could see his famous Guernica in museums for decades.
Tóibín spent much of his stay in Catalonia visiting the homes of famous artists. He focused on those who called Barcelona home during its pre war Golden Age years and devoted entire chapters to the work of Miró, Dalí, Casals, and Buñuel. Unlike Picasso who might have emigrated from Andalusia and considered himself Catalonian, Dalí became more and more pro Spain over time. He spent the civil war years in the United States and developed a surrealist style that could be easily copied. Following his death, he donated the majority of his work to the Prada and remained anti Catalonia. Barcelona was nothing to him even though this was the city of his youth. The artist who epitomized Catalonia was Frederico García Lorca. I studied his Blood Wedding and Yerma in a Spanish literature course in college, and the motifs represented the two sides of the civil war. Eventually he was murdered for his beliefs on the eve of the war, and Lorca became a symbol for the anti Franco facets of society. Casals conducted a pro Catalonia concert on the eve of war as well, which resulted in a riot. These artists showcased the Catalonian culture, suppressed under Franco. The artwork, music, dance, and separate language revealed how a distinct culture had survived within a larger country for centuries, one that Franco attempted to destroy. Thankfully, according to the author, following his death, Catalonian culture experienced a renaissance, which lead up to the Olympics.
Nothing says Barcelona more than its team Barça FC. Its rivalry with Real Madrid has been around for more than a century, and the teams play in El Clásico match twice a year. Fans live and die with their teams, the games mirroring political meetings. The futbolistas are not politicians but the fans savor every victory more so than political ones. These games have become so popular in recent years that they are even televised in the United States. Tóibín spent much time in Barcelona and learned Catalan. Although he is Irish, Castilians figured him for a Catalonian because few others outside the area speak the language. It is a language my husband and I would both like to learn so when we do travel to Barcelona one day, we will be able to converse with the locals. In the meantime, I can savor Tóibín’s depictions of the city, it’s parks, buildings, artwork, restaurants, and football team featuring the city’s distinct culture. I first learned of Barcelona as a teen watching these same Olympics that Tóibín alludes to here. The city is much more than the Olympic experience located at the crossroads of Mediterranean trade routes, giving rise to a city and culture that is unique from the rest of Iberia and one to be lauded for its diversity.
4 stars