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Engel's England: Thirty-nine counties, one capital and one man

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England, says Matthew Engel, is the most complicated place in the world. And, as he travels through each of the historic English counties, he discovers that's just the start of it. Every county is fascinating, the product of a millennium or more of history: still a unique slice of a nation that has not quite lost its ancient diversity. He finds the well-dressers of Derbyshire and the pyromaniacs of Sussex; the Hindus and huntsmen of Leicestershire; the goddess-worshippers of Somerset. He tracks down the real Lancashire, hedonistic Essex, and the most mysterious house in Middlesex. In Durham he goes straight from choral evensong to the dog track. As he seeks out the essence of each county - from Yorkshire's broad acres to the microdot of Rutland - Engel always finds the unexpected . Engel's England is a totally original look at a confused country: a guidebook for people who don't think they need a guidebook. It is always quirky, sometimes poignant and often extremely funny.

352 pages, Kindle Edition

First published October 23, 2014

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Matthew Engel

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5 stars
61 (21%)
4 stars
122 (42%)
3 stars
77 (26%)
2 stars
20 (6%)
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9 (3%)
Displaying 1 - 30 of 43 reviews
Profile Image for Diz.
1,896 reviews147 followers
September 21, 2022
This is written for a British audience. There are quite a lot of cultural references, such as detailed cricket references, that went over my head as someone who is not British. Additionally, I imagine that the references are ones that older people would get, so I'm afraid that this limits the audience for this book. All in all, I didn't get much out of this, but I imagine there are some people out there who might enjoy this.
Profile Image for Paul.
2,244 reviews
April 25, 2015
England is a country of many facets, and the best place to find these subtle differences is in each county. In this book Engel travels to each with the hope of find that very essence that makes that county different from it's neighbours. He visits the main cities of the counties, or particular parts that have made it famous, such as sporting grounds, or a particular food, a famous person or well know location. On the way he visits the cities that have cathedrals, as he has a personal call to light a candle in each one for his late son, who sadly died of cancer at he age of 13. It adds a certain poignancy to the journey.

Mostly this is an enjoyable book, it is stuffed full of enjoyable anecdotes and facts, and Engel tells you what he sees and experiences in each location. But interesting as it is, it did not have the same wit as a writer like Bryson. Which is a shame really as those subtle and vast differences that do exist between each county are a vast arena for humour. 2.5 Stars overall.
Profile Image for Stephen.
2,239 reviews465 followers
November 18, 2015
funny and interesting travelogue of the author's trip around each of the historic counties of england
Profile Image for Simon.
1,238 reviews4 followers
July 30, 2016
Not an out and out, cor blimey guv'nor, no holds barred, gold plated five stars but its better and more enjoyable than a four star and there isn't a half-way house.

What makes it so good? First and foremost, Engel can write. There are writers who read voraciously and writers who read occasionally. There is a huge difference. Engel is a reader of novels, journals, sports books, poetry, drama and politics. He reads well and this usually leads to good writing. It's good because Engel is fond of the country, very aware, well-informed, capable of equal measures of nostalgia and positive thinking about the future. He sees the counties as they are (essentially the book is 40 separate articles each concerning a historic English county), and as they could and (perhaps) should be. He's got forty years of good quality journalism behind him, a lifetime travelling these lanes and lines. There's a discerning eye at work and a good nose for the right contact. You need guides and informants for a book like this and this is where the current journalist comes in. The immediate comparison with this book is Bill Bryson's Road to Little Dribbling and this book monsters it. When Bryson wrote Notes from a Small Island he was still a jobbing hack with a nose for a story. Matthew Engel still is; and a very good newspaper man he is as well. (My interest in cricket has always been stronger when reading about it than watching it; Engel has long been a favourite cricket writer.)

If there is a conceit it is a simple one: travel to each of the original counties (by original I mean pre 1974 local government reorganisation) and spend long enough there to make a proper report as to how they have fared since they were buggered about with by one of the most disastrous and widely opposed pieces of legislation of the twentieth century. In some cases county identity has largely ceased to exist, in some it has grown stronger. You'd expect Yorkshire to have retained it's self pride but who would have expected Essex to have become a place to feel strong attachment to? But it has.

It's like making such a journey yourself (which is exactly what it should be). There is glory and splendour everywhere in England but so much is downtrodden and depressed. Economically depressed industrial areas that have lost their industry and had nothing invested back in, depressed farmland or prairies of wheat owned by corporations, culturally depressed towns and people looking for somebody to blame and (usually like Boston in Lincolnshire) blaming the wrong people with unfortunate results. Engel is one of the few writers who doesn't just point out that the same shops are on every run down High Street and the same big carpet, bed and DIY sheds on every trading estate. He actually measures what is lost (a huge amount) and what is gained (bugger all) by having Tesco ripping the heart out of a thousand communities.

The two final chapters in the book raise it from a very good read to an exceptionally good read. He takes London as a whole and analyses how it both dominates and is separate from the rest of the country. All the wealth is there, all the opportunities are there, many of the causes of the rest of the country's problems are there, and 80% of the working cranes in Britain are there. The final chapter goes to London's opposite: Herefordshire, where the author draws a picture of a forbidding and tragic Eden.

There have been many attempts to emulate JB Priestley's English Journey. These days they come at the rate of 3 or 4 every year. This is one of the best.
Profile Image for Richard Thomas.
590 reviews45 followers
October 1, 2015
A jolly, readable and very entertaining tour of England's old counties. Matthew Engel has both an eye and ear for the unusual without descending into whimsy and sentiment. A British reader will learn from the book and I might hope that others will do similarly. A quick declaration of interest; he writes well and sensibly about my own native county (Essex) which other lazier writers denigrate by cheap cliche and lazy stereotyping.
32 reviews
January 8, 2017
This won't be everyone's cup of tea but I absolutely loved it. Engel is a funny, insightful and fluent writer whose love for his homeland shines through every page, with the possible exception of the chapters on Bedfordshire and Huntingdonshire, which get justifiably short shrift.
Profile Image for Angie Rhodes.
765 reviews23 followers
February 12, 2018
Matthew Engel has written a travel book with a difference, he visits the Counties of England, telig the reader, a bit about the history that surround them, It is a fun read, making the reader, want to put on his/her coat grab a train, coach or car, and travel to each and everyone!
Profile Image for Leonie.
Author 9 books13 followers
August 1, 2023
Entertaining and fascinating at every turn. I especially enjoyed the less obvious counties like Rutland, Westmorland and Cumberland. The latter two are now merged with a couple of bits nicked from Lancashire and Yorkshire to become Cumbria. Warmly recommended if you're interested in the nooks and corners of England.
Profile Image for Ian Mapp.
1,360 reviews52 followers
July 14, 2017
Simple concept for a book. Each of England's traditional counties gets a chapter of between 15-30 pages. The author travels to the county and describes the character behind it, rather than a list of facts and key towns. There is a visit to light a candle to his dead child in each cathedral. There is rather a lot on Cricket. It is always warm, funny and interesting.

I knew nothing of Engel before the book but have learned of his Journalistic background, where he has homed his qualities of a great author. This could have been a dull book but the quality of writing is so good, you simply want to plough through it and read about just one more area.

A joy to read. I need to find similar books for France. And Italy.
Profile Image for Rachel Stevenson.
459 reviews17 followers
May 5, 2026
I love a travelogue, I have been to every county in England* (I deliberately went on holiday to Worcs so I could complete the 40) and I enjoyed Eleven Minutes Late by the same writer, so reading this book seemed a no-brainer. I also love a good fact, so here are 40 of them.

* Even Hungtingdonshire, which is not a real place.

1. Worcs is famous for its plum blossom.
2. Beds has no redeeming features.
3. The diggers (the new levellers) were from Surry (unlike the new new Levellers who were from Sussex).
4. Co Durham is not Durhamshire because it was never a scir, but a palatinate, run by the Prince Bishops.
5. Devonshire’s Slapton Sands was used to practice the D-day landings.
6. There are 800 feral hogs in the Forest of Dean, Gloucs.
7. Being from Yorks, there’s nowt tha’ can tell me, apart from Engels seems to have missed out the whole of South Yorkshire in his chapter on the Ridings. S Yorks was part of the West Riding, yet is entirely missing form his narrative - apart from a cursory remark about Robin Hood airport, which is not in Notts.
8. Sussex is the suicide capital of the UK (due to Beachy Head).
9. Rutlandshire is twinned with Paris.
10. The last of T.S.Elliot’s Four Quartets is set in Huntingdonshire (in Little Gidding).
11. Kernow has a village called Bugle.
12. Alfred Bird of Bird’s custard fame is is buried in the same cemetery as Joseph Chamberlain in Warks.
13. Dunwich in Suffolk returned two MPs until the mid-19th century, despite having fallen into the sea in the 13th.
14. On 1st May, people beat the bounds in Oxford, Oxon, including at St Peter’s college, but also Boots and Wagamama.
15. Liverpool Cheshire is very different from Manchester Cheshire.
16. The Romney, Dymchuch and Hythe railway in Kent was set up by two racing drivers: a Captain and a Count.
17. The south gives out and the north begins near Brassington in Derbys, where hedgerows become dry stone walls.
18. Westmoreland and Cumberland are very different places, probably not visible to the naked eye.
19. There are more yacht clubs in Hants than anywhere else in the world (probably a reason not to go there)
20. Lancs is just a crap version of Yorks.
21. Bucks almost had Stanstead, although it would have been called Wing.
22. Leics has the largest proportion of Gujaratis outside of Gujarat and also the largest fox hunts.
23. The 4th most famous building in Hertfordshire is the corset factory in Stevenage.
24. Laxton in Notts has the last remaining open field farming system (i.e pre-enclosure) in the country.
25. Ruislip in Mdx was once home to American communist spies.
26. Newcastle is in 2 counties: Northumberland and Co Durham, the two sides separated by the Tyne.
27. The phrase "as different as chalk and cheese" originates in Dorset where the chalky soil is no good for dairy farming and hence very little local cheese.
28. Seathwaite in Cumberland is the wettest part of the UK.
29. Arthur Pendragon, self-installed Raised Druid King of Stonehenge in Wilts, in actually from Wakefield.
30. There are a lot of clubs in Somerset for restoring old engines.
31. Cptn John Smith (Mr Pocahontas) was from Lincs.
32. In Berks, it’s actually two livery companies who own the swans and the monarch gets the leftover birds.
33. Norfolk has the earliest evidence of human settlement outside Africa.
34. Staffs has the highest point in the UK, a place called Flash.
35. Until 2014, there were no direct trains from anywhere in Shrops to London.
36. Essex contains both the driest spot in the UK (near Clacton) and the most deprived (Jaywick).
37. The occupants of Cambs were none too pleased when Cornelius Vermuyden rocked up in the 17th century, disrupting their traditional way of life catching eels on the fens.
38. Mary, Queen of Scots was beheaded in Northants.
39. The average house price in London in 1971 was £6K (£77,000 with inflation).
40. Herefordshire contains a lot of bull.

Another fact: the monkey-hanger story of Hartlepool is not true, it was a music hall joke about the Westhartlepuddlians by the Hartlepuddlians. I do feel that Engel or his editor could’ve done a quick google.
117 reviews
August 15, 2021
This book, for me, was a mixture of the frustrating and the fascinating. Frustrating because I kept wanting the author to cover more of some aspects and less of others - several paragraphs were given over to a single event whilst others were glossed over in a sentence or omitted altogether, and fascinating because of the little details of buildings, roads and landmarks that would pass unnoticed by anyone not looking for them. I spent a lot of time on Google Earth seeking out the Derbyshire car park from where the Great Trespass of 1932 set off; the tiny peninsula of Scotland, just metres wide, jutting into the Northumberland countryside as part of the idiosyncratic border between England and Scotland; and the missing hotel on Leinster Gardens in London, a mere facade at street level.
The book covers the period between 2011 and 2014 when the author decided to visit each county in England in turn, the old counties including Rutland and Huntingdonshire. It was a treat of landscapes, towns and villages both well-known and little-known, and written with wit and warmth. I loved it.
Profile Image for Alex Rendall.
61 reviews6 followers
November 20, 2017
Engel has written an erudite and witty travelogue, taking the reader with him on his journey around the traditional thirty-nine English counties as defined prior to the local government reorganisation of 1974. He has managed to portray the characteristics that make each county unique without being patronising, while also highlighting the increasing problem of cultural homogenisation on England’s high streets and in its towns. My one minor criticism is that (without giving too much away) Engel’s critique of Surrey felt harsh compared to other counties. Yes there is a lot wrong with my home county (too many golf courses and NIMBYs and not enough social housing among others) but it also has stunningly beautiful countryside and a vibrant and interesting should-be city in the form of Guildford. Taste is obviously subjective and I understand that my feelings as a native will differ to those of a visitor but I say to Engel: give Surrey a chance!
36 reviews
May 21, 2025
There are large parts of this book which are entertaining and engaging. There are also some occasions where Engel comes across as a bit of a prat. The odd snobbish comment here, some casual description of young women's appearance there, et cetera. All completely unneccesary and quite dated. Don't get me wrong, he's no Bernard Manning, but still.

I will also offer some constructive criticism; there seems to be an assumption that the reader is aware of the changes made in 1974 to the counties of England. As someone who is much younger than that, there were occasions where I was a little lost (pun intended). Perhaps there should be further maps and/or brief descriptions of the changes at the start of each chapter.

Putting these criticisms together, it may be that I am not the target audience for this book - maybe the inteded readership is a wealthy 50+ year-old looking back with rose-tinted spectacles. Maybe that's unfair, but it's how it comes across to me.
Profile Image for Colin.
1,361 reviews32 followers
September 26, 2021
Matthew Engel, Guardian and Financial Times journalist and erstwhile editor of Wisden Cricketers’ Almanac spent a good part of the years from 2011 to 2014 visiting each of the traditional English counties (including those that, having fallen victim to one or other review of local government, no longer exist). Engel’s England is the substantial (500+ pages) result of his travels. Engel, with an experienced journalist’s eye for a story and an ability to get straight to the heart of the matter, has a wonderful way of capturing the character of a place in ten or twenty pages. Packed with fascinating nuggets of information, plenty of great characters and some direct authorial opinions, Engel’s England is an engaging and revealing snapshot of a richly diverse country at a very particular moment in time; before the twin upheavals of Brexit and Covid.
383 reviews2 followers
May 7, 2024
[1 Oct 2019] This is an interesting, enjoyable and highly readable book. It is, as you might expect, written in a series of relatively self-contained chapters. Some counties he appears to engage with more than others and it is an easy book to read. He does a good job at finding quirky and unusual characters and odd events and happenings. He visits cities, towns and villages and in each Cathedral he lights a candle. While interesting, I'm not convinced he gets much beyond the superficial and certainly doesn't encapsulates the essence of each county (if that is possible in a book of this type and size).

Other commentators accuse him of being 'a bit curmudgeonly when it comes to the necessity or otherwise of some of the administrative changes that have supposedly 'altered' English counties, but this review is not the place to debate that rather dry point'. This, to me, is the very point of his book and one which I think frankly he should have explored in more depth. The reality is that while England prides itself on its heritage it has over the years paid precious little attention to it. Over the years, but predominantly in 1974 the traditional counties, which had existed for over a thousand years, were altered for purely administrative reasons. There was a political disregard for the sense of belonging, the pride, the history and heritage, the loyalty and a lack of seriously listening to the protests that followed. The bottom line is few care who empties their dustbins, but do identify with their traditional counties. This whole mess could have been avoided if the word county was not so over used for what are essentially council-areas. Over the years, many of the newly created 'counties' which remained unloved were quietly abolished and are no-more. I would have loved more on the traditional counties, the boundaries, the history of them and fight for their survival.

A generally good, interesting and engaging easy-read book.
Profile Image for Simon.
415 reviews2 followers
February 28, 2019
Hmmm, reviewing honestly I have to say that much as I loved his other book, "Eleven Minutes Late", I just didn't warm to this book at all, wishing he'd chosen other places in the counties visited.

This is a big shame as the book was a present and I'd hung on to it, feeling I ought to give it another go!!! Anyway, I did the decluttering thing and this didn't inspire and certainly not 'spark joy' . There you go!!!!!

The book has gone to my nearest Oxfam Bookshop for recycling under the 'Tag your Bag' scheme, which allows them to claim back tax on the resale, increasing the amount earned by the charity.
Profile Image for Patrick.
423 reviews7 followers
February 5, 2024
I began with high hopes, which were dashed by the first chapter, on Worcestershire, written in a horribly glib magazine-ish style. The idea of a writer visiting all the traditional English counties was appealing. But when I started reading, it wasn’t only the lackluster prose that put me off, the organization was terrible – Engel disjointedly took a bus ride looking for peach blossoms, attended a cricket match, visited a cathedral to light a candle, climbed a hill for the view, and none of it seemed related to specific characteristics of Worcestershire as a county. Older books do this kind of thing so much better!
Profile Image for Clive Grewcock.
155 reviews1 follower
September 29, 2021
I already knew Engel's writing as he is one of the more interesting cricket correspondents of his era and this is also well written although I'm unconvinced that each county had such distinct characteristics. That said this is a harmless and gentle journey around the English counties, that admittedly I dipped in and out of rather than reading in chapter order. It is good to see Huntingdonshire rightly given its own chapter.
621 reviews18 followers
February 19, 2024
At 523 pages of small print took a long time to read. It was the effort though as lots small interesting stories from around England.
I had to keep messaging friends of little tit bits I knew they would find interesting.
Favourite : Thankful villages. 51 villages where all who went, came back from world war 1. Then went onto the 14 where all came back from 2 as well.
On writing this changing to 5 *
Profile Image for Trudy Roberts.
250 reviews2 followers
March 20, 2022
More a comment and description of oddities and idioscincacies of each county rather than a travel book but written so well and with such humour that I really quite enjoyed keeping delving into a county every so often. Was interesting to read about the ones I didn’t know and to compare his observations with mine on counties i did know.
Profile Image for Adele.
1,227 reviews10 followers
September 25, 2022
I was born in Cheshire, live in Warwickshire and have most recently worked in Herefordshire and while it was interesting to read the less obvious depictions of these varied counties amongst all the others
perhaps my mistake with this book was to read it as I would a novel - all in one go. It may have been better to digest individual county chapters separately by occasionally dipping in and out.
Though abundant with little known county facts and colloquial anecdotes I just didn’t enjoy the journey as much as equivalent time spent in the company of either Bill Bryson or Stuart Maconie. In their books I felt more like I’d willingly participated in their journeys eager to see what was around the next corner whereas here I seemed to trudge through the pages increasingly less enthusiastically. Overall, the trip was not without the occasional highlight, but I’d not necessarily be keen to repeat it.
Profile Image for wisDom.
25 reviews
January 23, 2024
Any book which highlights the Real counties gains my approval. I have deducted one star due to the author’s inclusion of the ‘county’ of London (a disgraceful act of Victorian vandalism which kick started the horrific litany of abuse our Counties would suffer over the subsequent century).
Profile Image for Alastair Gain.
9 reviews
February 1, 2024
I loved this book, like comfort food, I couldn’t wait to read the the next county, Engel felt like a friend after a bit, I felt he really did find the essence of each area of England he visited and kept things moving along at a brisk entertaining pace, brilliant ….all of it
40 reviews
October 1, 2024
Best chapters are tightly grounded in place and time. Those which are more to do with the spirit or character of a county are more dragging. It’s also hard to read county after county without it becoming a little monotonous.
Profile Image for Phil Butcher.
721 reviews7 followers
June 3, 2017
A fascinating journey to visit the historic counties of England in order to get a feel for their character. Some come off worse than others! It's given me plenty of ideas for future holidays.
14 reviews1 follower
August 20, 2020
Quite often depressing, but always fascinating and full of insight
Profile Image for Gary..
69 reviews
March 15, 2022
I struggled, to be honest, I thought that it would have been a travelogue, at times seems to have been rushed.
That's my opinion, but others may enjoy that style of observation.
Profile Image for Beatrice Hogg.
123 reviews3 followers
July 31, 2022
I learned a lot about the English counties. I can't wait to visit!
5 reviews
May 19, 2025
Interesting book but took me a while to read as I wasn't that invested in it.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 43 reviews