Surely this is the book that Donal Fallon was born to write. Like some mythological creature - half-historian, half-‘pintman’ - Fallon has traversed the taverns of Dublin city (a sacrifice he is no doubt willing to make in the name of historical research) to bring us this love letter to the institution that is the Dublin pub.
Fallon has astutely worked out that much of the cultural and social history of Dublin can be told through the story of its pubs. “The Dublin Pub” is an attempt to go beyond the mythology - and beyond the well-worn tales of Behan, Kavanagh, and Flann O’Brien – to tell a more contemporary history of the city’s watering holes.
Across 31 chapters, Fallon has taken a thematic approach to his mission. Within “The Dublin Pub” we are served sections on the role of the public house in the United Irishmen’s uprisings in 1798 and 1803, the preservation of Victorian-era snugs in contemporary pubs, the sad decline of the ‘early house’, and the IRA’s bizarre 1930s boycott campaign against Bass ale. The mystery of the disappearance of Dan Donnelly’s arm is solved, there are wonderful digressions on artworks hanging inside Dublin pubs and the evolution of the hand-painted signs hanging outside them, and we find out how public houses in the vicinity of the GPOs fared during the tumult of the Easter Rising (answer: badly).
There is even a chapter devoted to my beloved Flowing Tide, an establishment I’ve been frequenting for nigh on a quarter of a century, yet knew little of the stories about the pub that Donal Fallon relates here. Fallon doesn’t pander to old yarns or stereotypes, however, and he is comfortable debunking some of the shaggier dog stories related to Dublin publore.
This book is also an attempt to reclaim the pub from influencer culture and from beaten alive by Instagram (Fallon is not a man, I would presume, who would entertain being asked to ‘split the G’). “The Dublin Pub” goes beyond the canals and the old reliable city centre pubs that are preserved in aspic, and brings us pieces on The Towers pub, latterly of Ballymun and a rare example of a U.K.-style ‘estate pub’ in Ireland, plus the achingly-hip Fidelity music bar on Benburb Street. And there is a terrific chapter on the late, great Con Houlihan, the legendary sportswriter and pub institution whose articles hang framed in myriad establishments across Dublin.
“The Dublin Pub” isn’t just hugely accessible, consistently entertaining throughout, and thoroughly researched, it is also beautifully designed and illustrated (I found the map of ‘Lost Pubs of Dublin’ compelling, and a reminder the importance of defending and preserving pub culture). Without wanting to be too prescriptive, “The Dublin Pub” is a book perhaps best savoured in the snug of one of somewhere like Gravediggers or Bowe’s while having a pint of porter on the go.