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How Baking Works: And What to Do When It Doesn't
I want to show you how baking works. I want to prove how easy baking can be. Whether you want light cakes, squidgy brownies, perfect pastry, stress-free macarons, or mountainous meringues, this book features a mini-masterclass for each one. Everything's split up into tiny, simple steps. There's no faff and you don't need any expensive equipment. You don't even need a sieve. And for baking veterans, this book tells you why you're doing what you've been doing all these years. Here’s to baking that just works.
256 pages, Hardcover
First published February 26, 2015
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319 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 14 of 15 reviews
September 4, 2021
"[I]t doesn't matter which method you use, it's your final result that matters."
I like James Morton's style, even if he does shout from time to time:
The really refreshing thing about James Morton is that he is unashamedly a home baker with a small kitchen, and this book caters specifically to home bakers and the problems they may encounter and the really great things they can bake in spite of not having state of the art equipment, from how to deal with different kinds of flour, to the need for a timer, to temperature variations in ovens and on stovetops, to substitutions, to basic structure and characteristics of standard ingredients, to storage of partially or completely baked things, to essential equipment (as well as what might be nice but isn't even remotely necessary), to troubleshooting when things don't work out.
Favourite quotes:
What I found particularly useful are the explanations on how sugar and fat can weaken the structure of pastries, how handling can develop gluten, how over-handling can develop gluten when it isn't wanted, etc. etc.
I love that in the list of Essential Equipment, "oven" is number one. But he also stresses that it doens't have to be a fancy oven. All that is required is that "you know your own oven", and that an oven thermometer is very handy as well, "though even these aren't nearly as accurate as everyone says they are...)".
The rest of James Morton's essential equipment list is refreshingly short, concise, and specific: "Always 'knife', never 'knives'", adding that it isn't necessary to spend massive amounts on several knives. Instead, he stresses that all anyone requires is one very good knife and something to hone it with.
He also includes "timer" (your phone), "bowl", "big spoon", with explanations about the differences between wood and metal for the spoons, and plastic, silicon, glass, ceramic, and stainless steel for the bowl.
Refreshingly, "electric mixer" and "food processor" are relegated to the Usually Unnecessary, Expensive but... Sometime Desirable Equipment section.
One surprising aspect of the book is James Morton's assumption that all kitchens are equipt with a microwave oven. (Although, to be fair, he does say how to achieve things without the use of a microwave oven.)
Bookmarked
» Chocolate Ganache [The Basics]
» Marzipan [The Basics] - "Don't like marzipan? Try making your own. That fake cherry flavour doesn't develop for a while [...] Instead, you just get beautiful sweet almondiness."
» Piping techniques [The Basics]: stars, swirls, shells
» Pecan Icing [Cake] - ie: Praline
» Lemon, Extra-Virgin & Poppy Seed Muffins Cupcakes [Muffin] - "Not savoury and not overly sweet [...] Drizzle the muffins generously with the lemon syrup"
» Gingerbread Muffins Cupcakes [Muffin] - "usually top with lemon icing"
» Hazelnut shortbread [Biscuit]
» Shortcrust pastry (pâte brisée) [Short]
» Onion tart [Short]
» Pork Wellington [Puff] - "Meat and other delicious things wrapped in puff pastry? [...] Now you're talking"
Regrets:
1. There is no bread section at all, instead there is merely a mention about his earlier book on bread. Which is not nearly as good a book as this one, nor is it nearly as good as his later bread book, "Super Sourdough".
2. James Morton does not include a recipe for homemade filo dough.
3. James Morton appears to be confused about how much sugar (too much, in my view) belongs in muffins. He even goes so far as to suggest that his yoghurt muffins be iced! Icing? on muffins? no no no. Icing means they're cupcakes, which these are with 100 grams of sugar included in the muffin batter, as well as a suggestion to make "chocolatey yoghurt muffins by adding a couple of teaspoons of cocoa to both icing and muffins" Perhaps James he about muffins by going to a North American coffee chain restaurant....
4. re: "By creaming, you're not trying to tear little air holes in the butter, as you are when making a cake. This is why you must use blunt icing sugar in this method." in Sweet | Basic Sweetcrust Pastry Recipe.
What on earth is "blunt icing sugar"? Alas, I do not have a twitter account so cannot ask.
I like James Morton's style, even if he does shout from time to time:
YOU DON'T NEED ANY EXPENSIVE EQUIPMENT. YOU DON'T EVEN NEED A SIEVE. AND FOR YOU BAKING VETERANS, THIS BOOK TELLS YOU WHY YOU'RE DOING WHAT YOU'VE BEEN DOING ALL THESE YEARS. HERE'S TO BAKING THAT JUST WORKS. [About the book]
~ ~ ~ ~ ~
This book is for the unpretentious. Everything is simple. Everything is direct. There's as little useless flowery language as I could muster. I'll remove all the steps you don't need and tell you why you don't need them. I bought every ingredient from my local, medium-sized supermarket. [How This Works]
~ ~ ~ ~ ~
I've refused to conform to the standard 100 or so recipes (of which about three are useful or original) that litter most texts. This project is simply about how to make an awesome cake. Or meringue. Or pie. Or tart. I'll guide you through the basics, then stress what works and what doesn't. [How to Use This Book]
The really refreshing thing about James Morton is that he is unashamedly a home baker with a small kitchen, and this book caters specifically to home bakers and the problems they may encounter and the really great things they can bake in spite of not having state of the art equipment, from how to deal with different kinds of flour, to the need for a timer, to temperature variations in ovens and on stovetops, to substitutions, to basic structure and characteristics of standard ingredients, to storage of partially or completely baked things, to essential equipment (as well as what might be nice but isn't even remotely necessary), to troubleshooting when things don't work out.
Favourite quotes:
[M]ost of what everyone has said for hundreds of years is either misleading or false. [How This Works]
~ ~ ~ ~ ~
The recipes are mere suggestions. [...] They are designed to help you improve upon your own favourites and to form the foundations of your own creations. [How to Use the Book]
~ ~ ~ ~ ~
You don't need much to get baking well. And the quality of your oven is never, ever an excuse. [Forebake]
~ ~ ~ ~ ~
Worried about your blood pressure? Please don't sacrifice on flavour by adding less salt: just have a smaller piece. [Forebake | Salt]
What I found particularly useful are the explanations on how sugar and fat can weaken the structure of pastries, how handling can develop gluten, how over-handling can develop gluten when it isn't wanted, etc. etc.
I love that in the list of Essential Equipment, "oven" is number one. But he also stresses that it doens't have to be a fancy oven. All that is required is that "you know your own oven", and that an oven thermometer is very handy as well, "though even these aren't nearly as accurate as everyone says they are...)".
The rest of James Morton's essential equipment list is refreshingly short, concise, and specific: "Always 'knife', never 'knives'", adding that it isn't necessary to spend massive amounts on several knives. Instead, he stresses that all anyone requires is one very good knife and something to hone it with.
He also includes "timer" (your phone), "bowl", "big spoon", with explanations about the differences between wood and metal for the spoons, and plastic, silicon, glass, ceramic, and stainless steel for the bowl.
Refreshingly, "electric mixer" and "food processor" are relegated to the Usually Unnecessary, Expensive but... Sometime Desirable Equipment section.
One surprising aspect of the book is James Morton's assumption that all kitchens are equipt with a microwave oven. (Although, to be fair, he does say how to achieve things without the use of a microwave oven.)
Bookmarked
» Chocolate Ganache [The Basics]
» Marzipan [The Basics] - "Don't like marzipan? Try making your own. That fake cherry flavour doesn't develop for a while [...] Instead, you just get beautiful sweet almondiness."
» Piping techniques [The Basics]: stars, swirls, shells
» Pecan Icing [Cake] - ie: Praline
» Lemon, Extra-Virgin & Poppy Seed Muffins Cupcakes [Muffin] - "Not savoury and not overly sweet [...] Drizzle the muffins generously with the lemon syrup"
» Gingerbread Muffins Cupcakes [Muffin] - "usually top with lemon icing"
» Hazelnut shortbread [Biscuit]
» Shortcrust pastry (pâte brisée) [Short]
» Onion tart [Short]
» Pork Wellington [Puff] - "Meat and other delicious things wrapped in puff pastry? [...] Now you're talking"
Regrets:
1. There is no bread section at all, instead there is merely a mention about his earlier book on bread. Which is not nearly as good a book as this one, nor is it nearly as good as his later bread book, "Super Sourdough".
2. James Morton does not include a recipe for homemade filo dough.
The reason I don't have a chapter on how to make filo pastry is that I don't believe you should make it at home. It's the kind of thing you might want to make once, just to see how much faff it is, then never consider again. It's much more efficient for it to be produced on a commercial scale. If you're absolutely insistent, the internet will help. [The Basics | Filo Pastry]
3. James Morton appears to be confused about how much sugar (too much, in my view) belongs in muffins. He even goes so far as to suggest that his yoghurt muffins be iced! Icing? on muffins? no no no. Icing means they're cupcakes, which these are with 100 grams of sugar included in the muffin batter, as well as a suggestion to make "chocolatey yoghurt muffins by adding a couple of teaspoons of cocoa to both icing and muffins" Perhaps James he about muffins by going to a North American coffee chain restaurant....
4. re: "By creaming, you're not trying to tear little air holes in the butter, as you are when making a cake. This is why you must use blunt icing sugar in this method." in Sweet | Basic Sweetcrust Pastry Recipe.
What on earth is "blunt icing sugar"? Alas, I do not have a twitter account so cannot ask.
June 25, 2019
This is a really nice book, it explains in a language everyone can understand how to bake and why we need to do things in a certain way - which is quite interesting; and has some very nice recipes to try on.
I'm not an experienced baker, I like to bake (and eat! :-P) but generally avoid more complicated recipes as I always feel I will not be able to do them well, so... not sure I'll try all in the book, but some for sure!
I'm not an experienced baker, I like to bake (and eat! :-P) but generally avoid more complicated recipes as I always feel I will not be able to do them well, so... not sure I'll try all in the book, but some for sure!
March 16, 2017
Brilliant! Absolutely brilliant! Another cover to cover read. Just like the first one. This one does not really include bread (and there's no need, that's what the first book is for), but it does include different types of pastry, how to make them, possible substitutions, how not to mess them up and what to do in case you do. Great job James! This one will be in regular use. :)
July 20, 2015
First of all, welcome to a new time for The Hungry Seagull! Instead of posting late on Sunday night, I shall be getting posts up on Saturday morning so you have something to enjoy over breakfast as well as the news, Facebook or whatever floats else your boat.
This week, I am reviewing another book, James' Morton's new(ish) How Baking Works (And What To Do When It Doesn't).
I have been using it for the last few months and I have to say it is utterly fantastic. As the title suggests, the book attempts to teach the reader basic recipes and techniques and how to sort out problems ranging from hard shortbread to soggy puff pastry.
Morton takes a highly methodical approach to the book's layout, with each chapter tackling a different type of bake. Cake, sponge, brownie, muffin, torte, biscuit, short pastry, sweet pastry, choux (bless you!) pastry, puff pastry, meringue and macaroons all receive their allotted space.
He is not hidebound by his principles, however, and slips in a few odd recipes where they seem most appropriate rather than leave them out. For instance, a rather excellent recipe for chocolate fondants finds its way into the brownie section.
An introduction covers "basics", a collection of need-to-know sauces and dressings such as caramel sauce, jam and the best crumble topping you will ever experience.
It also reveals a unique selling point of medical practitioner Morton's books, his scientific approach to the subject. He is far less of a "it's all an arcane mystery we must feel our way with" than a "everything is there for a reason which can be explained" kind of baker.
His introduction features a description of the key qualities of the basic ingredients of baking, sugar, eggs, flour etc, and their importance to the baking process.
This style carries on into the later chapters, where he scientifically explains the why behind each style of bake's basic process and how things might have gone wrong.
For instance, he explains the purpose of chilling shortbread before baking (it firms the butter up to prevents spreading in the oven and allows the gluten matrix to relax to produce a crumblier shortbread, since you ask).
I suspect this reason-based approach may also be due to the cheerful blokeishness which suffuses the book. There is nothing fussy about is recipes. Most measurements are in simple multiples or divisions of 100 and he has a casual disregard for scrimping and scraping to make "healthy" bakes (his advice for soft caramel is "Butter. And lots of it.").
The style of the book is very much in this vein; simple, unfussy, cheerful. The prose is conversational, as if he is speaking to the reader, and the layout is clear and simple with plenty of photographs.
I am not entirely sure about the quality of binding. I may have been unlucky but a section of pages has already detached from the spine and is hanging by the thread binding - just the sort of thing to really annoy this book-lover!
As I say, I may just have been unlucky and it is certainly not a reason to avoid buying the book. In fact, I would very much recommend you do and I'm sure Morton would roll his eyes and tell me to stuff the pages back in or glue them down.
How Baking Works is a fantastic book for a baker of any level but especially for a beginner. All the basics anyone could want are in here along with ten skip-loads of advice on how to dodge common problems and take ones baking to the next level. This book is an indispensable jewel in my collection.
Overall * * * * * - A peerless guide to baking, one could not wish for a clearer or more thorough companion.
Presentation * * * * - A simple but clear and effective layout is enhanced by Morton's cheerful prose.
Quality of Recipes * * * * * - Outstanding, solid basics to set you up for life.
Range of Recipes * * * * * - Every basic style of baking is covered while a few more experimental recipes are included among them.
Price * * * * * - At £20, this is really good price. With this much advice it is worth £25.
Will I Take This Off The Shelf To Cook From? - Yes.
Published originally on my food blog, The Hungry Seagull http://thehungryseagull.blogspot.co.uk/
This week, I am reviewing another book, James' Morton's new(ish) How Baking Works (And What To Do When It Doesn't).
I have been using it for the last few months and I have to say it is utterly fantastic. As the title suggests, the book attempts to teach the reader basic recipes and techniques and how to sort out problems ranging from hard shortbread to soggy puff pastry.
Morton takes a highly methodical approach to the book's layout, with each chapter tackling a different type of bake. Cake, sponge, brownie, muffin, torte, biscuit, short pastry, sweet pastry, choux (bless you!) pastry, puff pastry, meringue and macaroons all receive their allotted space.
He is not hidebound by his principles, however, and slips in a few odd recipes where they seem most appropriate rather than leave them out. For instance, a rather excellent recipe for chocolate fondants finds its way into the brownie section.
An introduction covers "basics", a collection of need-to-know sauces and dressings such as caramel sauce, jam and the best crumble topping you will ever experience.
It also reveals a unique selling point of medical practitioner Morton's books, his scientific approach to the subject. He is far less of a "it's all an arcane mystery we must feel our way with" than a "everything is there for a reason which can be explained" kind of baker.
His introduction features a description of the key qualities of the basic ingredients of baking, sugar, eggs, flour etc, and their importance to the baking process.
This style carries on into the later chapters, where he scientifically explains the why behind each style of bake's basic process and how things might have gone wrong.
For instance, he explains the purpose of chilling shortbread before baking (it firms the butter up to prevents spreading in the oven and allows the gluten matrix to relax to produce a crumblier shortbread, since you ask).
I suspect this reason-based approach may also be due to the cheerful blokeishness which suffuses the book. There is nothing fussy about is recipes. Most measurements are in simple multiples or divisions of 100 and he has a casual disregard for scrimping and scraping to make "healthy" bakes (his advice for soft caramel is "Butter. And lots of it.").
The style of the book is very much in this vein; simple, unfussy, cheerful. The prose is conversational, as if he is speaking to the reader, and the layout is clear and simple with plenty of photographs.
I am not entirely sure about the quality of binding. I may have been unlucky but a section of pages has already detached from the spine and is hanging by the thread binding - just the sort of thing to really annoy this book-lover!
As I say, I may just have been unlucky and it is certainly not a reason to avoid buying the book. In fact, I would very much recommend you do and I'm sure Morton would roll his eyes and tell me to stuff the pages back in or glue them down.
How Baking Works is a fantastic book for a baker of any level but especially for a beginner. All the basics anyone could want are in here along with ten skip-loads of advice on how to dodge common problems and take ones baking to the next level. This book is an indispensable jewel in my collection.
Overall * * * * * - A peerless guide to baking, one could not wish for a clearer or more thorough companion.
Presentation * * * * - A simple but clear and effective layout is enhanced by Morton's cheerful prose.
Quality of Recipes * * * * * - Outstanding, solid basics to set you up for life.
Range of Recipes * * * * * - Every basic style of baking is covered while a few more experimental recipes are included among them.
Price * * * * * - At £20, this is really good price. With this much advice it is worth £25.
Will I Take This Off The Shelf To Cook From? - Yes.
Published originally on my food blog, The Hungry Seagull http://thehungryseagull.blogspot.co.uk/
April 5, 2019
Best baking book I've read
friendly writing style with simple, clear instructions which provide understanding as to why you have to do certain things throughout the baking process. Also excellent troubleshooting sections.
friendly writing style with simple, clear instructions which provide understanding as to why you have to do certain things throughout the baking process. Also excellent troubleshooting sections.
May 8, 2017
Great for all levels of baker
I love James Morton's books. I have baked for years and have a lot of success, but I wanted to expand my skills and try some new techniques. James has covered a whole range of recipes from around the world and delivers the why's, pitfalls and science behind the bakes, which is why I love his style of books. Each recipe covers the basics with step by step pictures and then gives lots of ideas for variations. I will be making full use of this book. Pastry book next please James??
I love James Morton's books. I have baked for years and have a lot of success, but I wanted to expand my skills and try some new techniques. James has covered a whole range of recipes from around the world and delivers the why's, pitfalls and science behind the bakes, which is why I love his style of books. Each recipe covers the basics with step by step pictures and then gives lots of ideas for variations. I will be making full use of this book. Pastry book next please James??
September 27, 2018
I thought that I'd just dip and out of this as needed but I ended up reading it cover to cover. It does exactly what the title suggests - it tells you how (and why) baking works and how to correct things for next time when things go wrong. Not only that it has some really great looking recipes. I've baked a couple of them and the results are fantastic.
Like his first book Brilliant Bread this is going to be something I'll keep coming back to again and again.
Like his first book Brilliant Bread this is going to be something I'll keep coming back to again and again.
March 27, 2019
Not what I was expecting. Has more recipes than theory. Will see how it turns out once I bake ;-)
April 4, 2019
Another great book from James which, like his first, was a great read cover to cover.
August 21, 2019
Great recipes, with lots of tips along the way.
May 28, 2020
Learned lots of tips and tricks. Very interesting!!
November 11, 2020
Its a recipe book - I haven't tried them all but it seems ok. I would have liked a bread related section - it seems a lack in a baking book
January 22, 2022
I don't often read cookbooks, but I enjoyed him on GBBS, and I appreciate the science behind baking. I look forward to making his recipes.
March 3, 2021
Brilliant book
Helps a novice look professional, saves so many mistakes wile learning, great methods (often different from the standard) with explanations to improve results.
Helps a novice look professional, saves so many mistakes wile learning, great methods (often different from the standard) with explanations to improve results.
Displaying 1 - 14 of 15 reviews