An unprecedented look into the food and culture of Iceland, from Iceland's premier chef and the owner of Reykjavík's Restaurant Dill.
Iceland is known for being one of the most beautiful and untouched places on earth, and a burgeoning destination for travelers lured by its striking landscapes and vibrant culture. Iceland is also home to an utterly unique and captivating food scene, characterized by its distinctive indigenous ingredients, traditional farmers and artisanal producers, and wildly creative chefs and restaurants. Perhaps no Icelandic restaurant is as well-loved and critically lauded as chef Gunnar Gíslason’s Restaurant Dill, which opened in Reykjavík’s historic Nordic House in 2009. North is Gíslason’s wonderfully personal debut: equal parts recipe book and culinary odyssey, it offers an unparalleled look into a star chef’s creative process. But more than just a collection of recipes, North is also a celebration of Iceland itself—the inspiring traditions, stories, and people who make the island nation unlike any other place in the world.
While not all the foods seemed that appealing they were creative and intriguing -- all factors that I gather result from a history scarcity and having to use every edible substance available.
The complex and unusual arrangements reminded me somewhat of Noma: Time and Place in Nordic Cuisine (It's not coincidence that Redzepi wrote the Introduction), although Gíslason is less extreme; by that I mean both that the food is food rather than a metaphorical landscape, and that a lot of it is do-able by a normal person. Not easy -- many of the components are hugely time-consuming -- but feasible. A lot of ingredients available outside Iceland would be rather different, of course.
I'll probably try making a few things: beer vinegar, dulce powder, sorrel ash (or something like that with a different herb), apple cider granita, a frozen or smoked oil. I'll note the instructions for those under status updates if anyone else wants to try them.
A caveat for readers: if you see an ingredient or technique that interests you, note it; the index isn't very good.
It's laughable that Eddy calls these recipes 'approachable enough for the home cook' in her introduction. A sampling of what chef Gislason calls for: moss ash, lamb hearts and marrow bones, xantham gum and liquid glucose, seaweed powder, birch twigs and pine tree oil, dehydrators and immersion circulators and homemade smokers. His work is unabashedly local, specific, and molecular--all fine qualities, but please, call it what it is.
I picked up this book out of a love for Scandinavian culture and curiosity about his particular take on New Nordic cuisine, and as a curiosity, this book satisfies. But there should be a qualifier--"Not for home consumption."
This is a gorgeous book that belongs in my kitchen. It's a cookbook, travel book and a bit of a history/memoir rolled into one. The beautiful photographs weave effortlessly through the recipes, tips & techniques and information about different regions as well as interviews with people from those regions helping to keep Iceland's food traditions alive (goats, salt production, geyser bread, fermented shark, mushrooms, dulse, fish etc.) which in turns reveals a little of Iceland's proud history.
There are sooo many recipes with mouth-watering photos that I want to try, and I'm especially intrigued with many of his desserts and treats, although I must admit I'm more interested in the smoking methods, oils, vinegars, pickles and syrups as well as other ways of preservation that he details. He goes out of his way to specify subs (many of which I already have in my cupboards) for items not easily found or imported. When possible, he recounts how to make an item yourself.
I could have fun with this all year. Well, except for the many foams he seems to enjoy employing. I may try one or two for myself (doesn't appear a difficult process), but there's no way my horde of picky teenagers will deign to touch them let alone ingest them.
I found this book last year. It was offered since I haven't the means to get to Iceland, Fysicle nor in financiële.
In addition to some amazing recipes, the book also paints a picture of Icelandic cultural history. There's a lot of fish in this book, but I like fish, so it's a good fit. It's also a restaurant cook book. It doesn't give you recipes for serving a table of eight.
What you see on them cover is what you can expect from the inside. You definitely need to already know how to cook, and how to look at a recipe and modify it. These are that kind of recipes I love. I don't have time to spend eight hours preparing a sauce or letting something ferment for days, but I can look at what's in the sauce and know how to get a cheap, similar result in twenty minutes. If that's the kind of person you are in the kitchen, this is a great book full of ideas.
When Ten Speed Press offered the opportunity to explore Chef Gunnar Karl Gíslason's new cookbook, North, I couldn't possibly resist.
I was in Iceland last year and although I didn't have the opportunity to experience Gíslason's restaurant, Dill, I did love all the food I encountered. Cod, which I'd never particularly liked until I devoured Icelandic cod, rhubarb tucked into the tiny gardens of homes on the coast, angelica growing wild (and infused in the cough drops I picked up).
We ate at an incredible restaurant in the north, Narfeyrarstofa, rhubarb dessert included, and one of the most delicious meals I've experienced. Since then I've wanted to try some Icelandic-inspired meals.
But in terms of that, this book just isn't going to do it for me. Which makes me sad.
If you're an adventurous cook who loves picking up a cookbook that requires a certain level of skill and look through the challenging recipes and draw up a list of those you'd like to take on....
This book probably isn't going to work for you, either.
Because let me tell you, I am one of those cooks, and the recipes in here just seem impossible for me.
We're talking ingredients and kitchen/scientific equipment and skills that even a relatively skilled and adventurous home cook isn't going to be able to do.
At the beginning of the book, the authors went to great lengths to explain that many of the ingredients are native to Iceland an that it's unlikely that they could easily be sourced elsewhere but that's okay because they can be substituted with other similar ingredients, and they had me convinced.
And then I started reading through the recipes.
Birch Meringue, Buttermilk pudding, and Birch Granita. Dried Trotters, Pickled Onions, and Hay-Smoked Mayonnaise. Lamb Sweetbreads, Caramelized Celery Root, and Blood Sausage.
I was looking for a recipe I could make and so started looking for one of the more simplistic recipes, and also for ones that I could easily replace at least half of the ingredients. I narrowed it down to less than a handful but then, reading in further detail through the recipes, I came to the realization that even those recipes would require things like foam, and sauces and bringing things together that would take at least half my weekend to source and create.
Hmmmm, so I can't tell you that I actually made any recipes. I might try some day, when I want to take on the challenge and devote a weekend to the project.
HOWEVER.
Please don't walk away, if you're interested in Iceland and fascinating food.
This book is gorgeous. And not just physically. The photographs are pure architectural, landscape, and foodist pornography.
Each section includes passionate storytelling, both about Gíslason's reasons for starting Dill and his love for Iceland and the people there (I did find it odd that Gíslason was always referred to in the third person... I understand that there were essentially three authors here, including the photographer, but since it's primarily about Gíslason and his experiences, this felt odd and stilted).
They profile the producers of the food products in Iceland, including lamb and seaweed and cod and barley (they grow barley in Iceland!). The profiles are absolutely fascinating and educational and beautifully written and photographed.
Even if Iceland hasn't necessarily been on your cultural or foodist radar, if you enjoy profiles about people who devote themselves to a particular craft in their homeland of which they are enormously proud, you'll love this love letter to Iceland.
For me, this book is more for reading about a culture and its people who are thrillingly passionate about their local ingredients than it is a cookbook I'll work much from, but I'm perfectly okay with that.
Elves not included. Or at least, there aren't any photographs.
To me, cookbooks should be about usefulness. Anything else is usually just a bonus. This book is very beautiful and has some wonderful anecdotes and interviews, but the recipes are not very utilitarian. Here's what you need to know if you are considering buying this book:
Most of the recipes in this book require you to make part of it ahead of time, usually an oil or dairy sauce, some of it needing a day or weeks. Many recipes require ingredients that are obscure and difficult to find. I spent a great deal of time searching the internet for substitute ingredients for those I could not find, and I did look in many different stores. Not all the equipment used to make these dishes was familiar to me, that's not to say that I have an extremely extensive knowledge of kitchen equipment or gadgets. I'm confident this is not your everyday Icelandic food cookbook. It would be great if you want to make a meal that will make an impression on dinner guests, but not so much for everyday use.
I did make one recipe from the book, it's really the only one I felt I could even attempt and, even then, I modified it quite a bit. I made the fried goose breasts. My dad had just happened to get a freezer full of goose from a hunting buddy of his wo it worked out quite well in that regard. Unfortunately, I didn't really study the recipe itself ahead of time, just the ingredient list. I didn't realize I needed to make one of the oils a day in advance so I had to fudge that a bit. I'd also never heard of an immersion circulator so I did not attempt the celery root puree. Despite all this, the goose turned out very good. I might make this again if I wanted to make something that looked fancy but otherwise I probably would make something more simple. I didn't time how long it took, but it was somewhere in the one-two hour range.
All in all, a very beautiful book but only useful for special occasions.
This review is based on a free copy received from BlogginForBooks.com. It no way influenced this review.
North is a cookbook that represents a glamorous, upscale take on the foods of Iceland. More than just recipes, this book includes essays and interviews with the food producers of the exotic ingredients used to make these dishes possible.
If you don't know by now from my reading my blog, you know that I'm a foodie, and a bit of an admitted snob (it happens when your dad is a chef. Oops). That being said, I confess that I had no idea that Iceland had a unique cuisine. It makes complete sense of course, but I was completely unfamiliar with it. This book was equal parts gorgeous and informative, and I can safely say that I definitely need to try some Icelandic fare.
First of all, I was really amazed at the amount of information that's packed into this book. There's informational blurbs about some of the more "exotic" (by American standards) ingredients and the techniques to follow as well as facts about the region. This was coupled with interviews and essays written by artisanal food producers that I didn't even know exist. From sea bird egg harvesters to collectors of birch, this book gives a great insight into the culture.
This is coupled with some stunning photography. The included shots of people, landscapes, prepared dishes, and ingredients are equally striking. Viewing pictures of the stunning ice and forests and animals of Iceland helped to set the tone of the book, and the shots of the recipes are all enticing and very chic looking, making even dishes that hadn't sounded good to me look delicious.
And then of course, there's the recipes themselves. They tended to lean on the more complex side of things, but each technique and recipe is well explained and elaborated. I also appreciated that the author acknowledged that Americans usually don't have access to the same kinds of ingredients, and offered substitutions that are more widely available. The chapters are divided mainly by the ingredients used, and I think that's a handy way to go about the organization. The dishes I'm most eager to try and prepare are, in no particular order: Rapeseed Oil Cake, Cider Apples, Buttermilk Ice Cream, and Pine Tree Oil, Blue Mussel Soup, Dry-Aged Beef, Celery Root Salad, and Mushroom Aioli and Fried Goose Breast, Celery Root Two Ways, & Parsley and Dill Oil.
In short, this book is one to pull out when you aim to impress. It's not for those who only enjoy meat and potatoes- there's some seriously creative dishes and ingredients. I'd recommend it more for experienced cooks and not beginners, but it's definitely one that I'd like to keep in my personal library for when I'm feeling extra creative and fancy.
Thanks to Ten Speed Press and Netgalley for my copy in exchange for an honest review. This review can also be found on my blog, Bitches n Prose.
I came across this book while looking for a book for the Book Riot Read Harder 2020 challenge for 'read a food book about a cuisine you've never tried before' and knew I had to read it. I've loved reading anything by or about Iceland since I was very young, and would love to visit some day. Overall, as a cookbook, this didn't work for me. Even though the chef states that the recipes would be able to be made in any home kitchen, I don't think I could accomplish any one of these. I've been in the kitchen with my mom since I was born, and can usually follow recipes well. but not sure I could manage these. Plus, I doubt I would easily be able to find most of the ingredients.
However, the stories along with the recipes, the interviews with different Icelanders and fun facts through the book were very enjoyable and it was interesting to see what all went into the traditional Icelandic foods. This more than satisfied the prompt for the challenge. I may keep it on my shelf for the Icelandic views, but not for the recipes.
I was sent a copy of the book for review through Net Galley, as always, all opinions are my own.
While I enjoyed the history and photographs in this book, I found the ingredients next to impossible to come by where I live. A cookbook such as this is useless in my kitchen, but still an interesting read if you are fascinated with Iceland and its rich history.
North isn’t a practical cookbook for home cooks outside of Iceland, it’s more a showcase for the uniqueness of Icelandic cuisine. A lot of ingredients seem unattainable and downright weird to Americans. That’s the point! Iceland is a frozen outpost full of hidden food resources. North is the story of unusual foods from Iceland and the hardy individuals who bring them to the table, both in homes and at the famed nouvelle cuisine restaurant Dill.
Written from the perspective of Dill’s owner and head chef, each supplier is explored via interview and short product/lifestyle descriptions. Sense of place is strong—it’s all about hard work in a harsh environment, sometimes exacerbated by government regulations. The remarkable work of these suppliers, employing family or other tiny workforces, sustains traditional Icelandic “slow foods” methods and occasionally introduces previously unexplored foods—like mussels—to Icelanders. Some products are exported, but most are endemic to Iceland.
Fish, sheep, and goats are relatable for US residents, and yet the goats are of an Icelandic breed saved from extinction by one woman. Smoked and salted fish are familiar, yet produced by methods long gone from the US. The Icelandic dairy farm resembles its US counterpart not in the slightest. Beautiful blue speckled seabird eggs stoke the imagination, as do geothermal bread ovens and birch seasoning. And of course, hardfiskur makes an appearance.
North is a focused look behind the scenes of both Iceland’s foods and its culture. The recipes, odd as they seem, demonstrate Dill chef Gislason’s brilliance in creating nouvelle cuisine from sparse local supplies. His appreciation for the men and women who produce his ingredients is obvious. Many large color photographs grace the pages, showing food suppliers at work and the stark beauty of every corner of Iceland, as well as some of Dill’s creations. Recommended for anyone interested in Iceland and the far north, especially those who are planning to travel there.
Okay, so ... not very obtainable recipes for the average person, but looks very beautiful plated and incorporates many aspects of Icelandic flora and fauna. Have to admit - some weird stuff in here. I'm not shaming the food of the culture, but there is literally shit-smoked fish and meat (not my words, the shit-smoker even said, let's not sugar-coat this, it's shit-smoked). There is the beautifully weird: cooking bread in holes heated by geisers, turquoise eggs collected from cliff faces, farmers saving ancient traditions that were in danger of dying out such as fermented shark and the unique medieval breed of goats. There was also the unobtainable such as "just keeping a barrel of hay in your garage" and NO2 chargers, and, in my case, finding a dark, cool, non-humid place to dry or preserve things... yeah, definitely NOT happening in Florida!!
I skipped through most of the preparations and focused on the ingredients, pictures, and cultural sections of the book, which was very interesting and enjoyable.
Read for the 2020 Read Harder Challenge: Read a food book about a cuisine you’ve never tried before
Much of this cookbook reads like a travel guide, which was easily the best part. Getting to know the artisans of Iceland was what eventually pushed me to finish this book. But to be honest, the interviews and descriptive blurbs are the only things that make this cookbook worth keeping.
The recipes are not only culinarily intense, but also potentially expensive and lengthy, as the ingredients are rare, and the techniques are detailed. Unless I was willing to drop a paycheck on shipping expenses, I will not be making any of these recipes any time soon.
I also appreciate Gíslason’s goal of making authentic Icelandic cuisine with fresh, locally-sourced ingredients, but often the recipes come off as a humble-brag; there is an interview with a woman who produces birch syrup, and, multiple times, Gíslason used it as an opportunity to talk about his success in making birch spirits.
Maybe someday I’ll attempt one of the recipes, but for now, this is doomed to become a coffee table book.
This lovely book is half interviews with different farmers and producers of natural, local food products all over Iceland, interviews, and fun cultural snippets, and half really hard to replicate recipes unless you either live in Nordic countries or have access to tools like an immersion circulator or ingredients like xanthan gum (I'll be able to make, like, three of them). In any case, Iceland lovers will enjoy it.
Very interesting and creative cookbook. Having visited Iceland a few times the food definately represents the haute cuisine and almost molecular gastronomy view of the island. Most of these recipes are not for the casual cook, as they require difficult to obtain sauces and ingredients. Still..it could be done. I liked the flavors and approach from different regions of Iceland.
I really enjoyed looking through the recipes, the photos, and the stories from those living in Iceland. The recipes, though, seem more involved with the presentation and plating with intricate steps for even seasoned cooks.
And that’s about that. There really wasn’t a single recipe I would make. I don’t even know because it’s like one of those fancy gastro bistro places where the food just looks odd and everyone raves but you aren’t even sure how to eat foam
This is a great winter cookbook! From the pictures of scenery in this book I realized I must some day visit this place and conquer my fear of the cold! This book is an eye opener to a culture we did not know about. Many of the recipes have to do with fish but there are still some dairy ones which you can make! A beautiful copy table volume, even if some of the recipes are too difficult for the average American to make. . Even if I do not make most of the seafood recipes I drew inspiration from this cookbook. My favorite chapter was collecting seabird eggs. This is such a neat insight to the land.This is one of the most beautiful cookbooks you will ever find. The photography of the food, people, and landscapes are breathtaking. The recipes are surprising. Not so much as the kinds of recipes but the chapter titles ! The Bacalao Producer The Arctic Char Smoker The Rugbraud Baker The Fisherman The Seabird Egg Collector The Barley Farmer The Dairy Farmer The Birch and Mushroom Forager The Sheep Farmer The Hardfiskur Producer The Salt Maker The Goat Farmer The Blue Mussel and Dulse Harvester
I loved how the author who has a restaurant honors the people of the land. "This book celebrates the cuisine and nation of a forward-thinking chef and the producers who supply his restaurant." Try this recipe and then order your book! \ Bacalao Potatoes with fennel Ribbons and Sorrel Ash Serves 4 | Preparation time: about 1 hour (plus 24 hours to rehydrate the cod)
On a visit to northern Iceland, Gunnar and I stayed in an inviting apartment on the outskirts of Akureyri, the second largest town in the country (at a whopping eighteen thousand inhabitants) and Gunnar’s birthplace. The only thing our cozy abode lacked was blackout curtains. Not surprisingly, the blinding July sun that drenches the country in light twenty-four hours a day results in severe sleep deprivation for anyone not accustomed to it. Gunnar, of course, is accustomed to his nation’s days of perpetual light and slept soundly each night. Perhaps because he was not bleary-eyed by dinnertime (and because he is a naturally hospitable fellow), he took charge of the evening meal.
One of the first things he made was this creamy potato recipe incorporating Elvar’s bacalao. It was not his intention to prepare it every night, but we couldn’t seem to get enough of its comforting virtue. The bacalao infused it with just the right amount of brininess, and the pungent horseradish perked up any sleepy brains. It’s hearty enough to work as a main dish and also makes a fantastic side. One night, Gunnar served it on toast; on another, he substituted smoked haddock, an ideal replacement for the cod. The profusion of herbs he added was dictated by whatever we foraged that day. This dish, which is inspired by a popular lunch item at Dill, is festively attired with fennel ribbons, a soft-boiled egg, and sorrel ash—the latter a mainstay of the Nordic kitchen.
Potatoes 1 pound (450 g) salted cod 1 pound (450 g) waxy potatoes 1/4 cup (60 ml) heavy cream, warmed
Sorrel Ash Leaves from 1 bunch sorrel
To Serve 4 carrots, peeled, cut into bite-size pieces, and roasted 2 fennel stalks, cut into long ribbons using a vegetable peeler (see note) 4 eggs, soft boiled Freshly grated horseradish, for finishing
To make the potatoes, immerse the salted cod in cold water to cover and refrigerate for 24 hours, changing the water several times to remove as much salt as possible. Remove from the water and, if skin and bones are present, remove them. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C) and roast the cod until warmed through, about 8 minutes. Once it is cool enough to handle, break into flakes, and keep warm.
To make the sorrel ash, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Arrange the sorrel leaves in a single layer on the prepared pan and toast in the oven for about 8 minutes, until blackened. Let cool to room temperature, then pulverize the leaves in a spice grinder, transfer to an airtight container, and store at room temperature until serving. The ash will keep at room temperature for up to 2 weeks.
Boil the potatoes in salted water to cover for 18 to 20 minutes, until tender. Drain the potatoes, let cool just until they can be handled, then peel them, keeping the peel intact if possible.
In a saucepan, mash the warm potatoes and cream together until smooth. Add the warm cod and stir gently to incorporate. Keep warm.
To serve, spoon the potatoes into a bowl. Top with the carrots, a generous handful of fennel ribbons, a soft-boiled egg, and a spoonful of horseradish. Dust with sorrel ash.
Whew. This seemed to take as long as some of the recipes in this book. It's a very informative read, but it's not exactly a 'sit down and rush through it' read (then again, it's a cook book). I had set out to read it in preparation for my trip to Iceland, to find out what Icelandic people eat. Turns out, they eat the stuff in this book - if they're the owner of one of the best restaurants (according to this book anyway) in Iceland. I loved the interviews with the people providing the ingredients like dried fish, but I don't think I'll ever make any of the recipes in this book. For one thing, I doubt I could get most of the ingredients outside Iceland. For another - who has the time? I think I only found a handful of recipes that took less than a few hours. One took A WHOLE YEAR. What.
Recommended if you're interested in international cuisine or have a lot of time to spare. Otherwise, steer clear.
As a book about food, this is beautiful and excellent. The portraits and interviews with the producers of traditional products are well done. The interviews expose techniques that as a non-Icelandic person I didn't even know existed and gave details about ones I did know about (like bacalao production). I really enjoyed reading this book.
As a cookbook, I could not use this book. It's modernist cuisine at its most artful. Food science, difficult to master techniques for the home cook, and esoteric ingredients means that beyond the stock methods most of the recipes are far beyond my reach. The photos are nice but so fancy that the components are unrecognizable.
I didn't read everything in this book, and neither did I try any of the recipes, at least not yet. I noted from the ones I did read that there is not as big a variety of ingredients available for food in Iceland. I'm not sure I would be a big fan of Icelandic food, but I would still like to visit that country, more than most. I feel the same way about Ireland, having been there a few years ago.
Part culinary journey and a tiny bit of a travel guidebook, this is well worth your time if you are interested in cooking/food. Gorgeous photos accompany interesting interviews with various Icelandic food producers. The recipes are interesting to read, though I don't think I'll be trying any. The ingredients are key and many of those aren't available in Southern California, which is almost the whole point of the New Nordic cuisine.
A beautiful cookbook full of ingredients I see/use rarely and recipes with so many steps and nuances I will probably never try them. It was so much fun to read and imagine what things would taste like, but this is just not a book from which I will cook.
An interesting glimpse into the culture and cuisine of Iceland. I can't say that much of it is what I would eat though........ Yes, I am a very picky eater.
Fantastic book, maybe not for the recipes, which seem rather involved, but for the information on Iceland and its people, as well as the local food movement there. Great for armchair travellers.