An easy-to-use introduction to techniques and tools, Woodworking Simplified lays the groundwork necessary for anyone to build a simple project from wood - be it birdhouse or a tool chest - and to do it safely, while learning a relaxing and rewarding hobby. The book starts with a section on getting down to basics: design and planning tips, facts to know about wood, and how to pick our best lumber. The second part of the book discusses basic tools and the proper way to use them. The last section includes plans for 19 simple yet practical projects.
This is a typical project book with a very large intro section in the beginning with basic woodworking tools, terms, and skills. The projects weren’t particularly attractive or useful to me, so I don’t plan on making any of them and can’t speak to the quality of the plans. I did read through every single project, though, something I normally don’t do, and picked up a wealth of tips on measuring, assembly and more.
Some tips I had already learned the hard way, but many were “aha” moments. Being completely self-taught, collecting skills as I attempted new projects, I didn’t know what I didn’t know before reading this. This book has identified my gaps in knowledge and given me a better framework for self-study. Using my notes and questions I plan on following up on many of these skills and tools on YouTube for a better understanding.
The illustrations here were great. I have never been a fan of illustrations, but these illustrations conveyed an INCREDIBLE amount of information, often more than the text could explain. Also, as a female woodworker, I was supremely pleased see so many illustrations with women holding the saw or drill. Bravo! What a great example to set for girls and women everywhere.
Here are some of my notes:
- To remember which side of the line to cut, draw another line about 1/16” away on the waste side and put the saw blade between the lines - Supplies I should pickup: spade bit set, backless crosscut saw, framing square - Not sure I understand this... what is the “self-adjusting hook” on a tape measure for now? - Write down all Measurements - this is something I recently started doing and it has been a lifesaver, especially the more complicated my projects get and less tolerance and more custom fit they are. - Bench hooks minimize tear out - I did not realize this was one of the purposes. The cutting end of my bench hook is so abused it doesn’t prevent blowout anymore. Time for a new one!! - Avoid tear out by cutting two lines on the underside, on either side of expected exit of the blade - To reduce tear out in drilling, drill until the bit JUST makes a tiny hole on the other side. Flip the piece over, use the tiny hole and a guide and finish drilling from the backside. - You can also reduce tear out by putting a scrap piece of wood behind the one you’re drilling. Hold tiny nails with needle nose pliers while you strike - Fasteners should go 2/3 way through the back piece. I haven’t been so good about this. - Carpenters clippers - helps remove deep nails without marring wood - WTF, apparently I’ve been drilling pilot holes the wrong way the entire time. First, only drill the hole through the FIRST piece. Second, this hole should be LARGER than the threaded part of the screw. This allows the screw to easily slip through the first piece of wood and easily pull the top piece towards the second. If the pilot holes are the smaller, the threads are biting into the top piece and could prevent this pulling action. 🤦♀️ - If the first screw in a piece is not tight, it could prevent other screws from tightening. I’ve had this problem and have solved it with crazy clamping. You’re telling me if I just drill the pilot holes bigger and only in the first piece I won’t have this issue?!? That’s amazing. - You can use rotary tools with drills. Well of course! Not sure why I never thought of that. - Using a countersink bit avoids ugly splinters when you try to make the screw flush. I really should use this more. - Knots bleed through paint. Use a shellac based paint to avoid this. - I really should sand my projects down when I’m done I guess. And wood putty the nail holes. There is such a thing as 1/2 inch stock. This guy uses 1/2” x 4” x 4’ on a project - Sand to make edges square if you didn’t cut them square. You need square edges to fit boxes together. - Use waxed paper to protect your bench from glue If gluing and nailing don’t let the glue dry longer than 10 minutes or it will make it hard to nail. - Numerous ways to use a combination square. I only knew about one of these uses, which is why the thing never gets used. - Great idea for an edge sander, to help get edges square. - If cutting small pieces, especially if they need a curved cut or shaping, leave them attached to the board to work with them. This allows for a place to clamp. Once you’ve used your coping saw or carved the small piece, THEN cut it off. - I need to start using wood plugs in my work. I think they sell them by the drill size of the hole. - Glue first then nail. This allows you to make minor straightening adjustments while the glue dries. - You can temporarily nail things with tiny wire nails to your workbench tot keep things from moving. - If creating something that involves repeating elements like pickets, don’t measure the distance between each one. Use a spacer piece of wood. - Cutting plans help in cutting down waste and wood cost. - To carve designs, clamp the board flat to the bench, draw the design with a pencil, use a utility knife to trace with slanted cuts to form a V gouge 1/8” deep, follow the gouges with a gouge and mallet. - Ridgepole - the beam that runs horizontally from end peak to end peak along the ridge of a roof, that supports the roofing material. - Label pieces as you cut them to aid in assembly - How to saw a straight line with a circular saw. - How to make a curve with a “beam compass” - Board feet (as opposed to linear feet) - a measurement of lumber that refers to all three dimensions. 1 board foot is 12” wide x 12” long x 1” thick. - Lag screw or lag bolts have hexagonal heads