As a lover of the diaries of this wonderful man, who spent 20 years traveling in rattletrap cars to decaying country houses owned by even more rapidly decaying owners, in the interest of the National Trust, I wondered if his "public" writing was as great and effortless as his private writing. I started with his book on St. Peter's, a building which I love and thought I knew. Lees-Milne tells the whole history of Rome, of the city of Rome, of the Church, of the middle ages and Renaissance, in this 1966 book. It's full of masterful but understated art history, architectural history, the history of the papacy and human moments wonderfully chosen - the testimony of the English visitors of 1344, who warn that if one becomes separated from one's companinion in this, the biggest building in the world, one must seek all day for him, because of the size of the space, and because of the confusion of the crowds running back and forth between the innumerable shrines and altars, prostrating themselves and getting indulgences. Or the story of the lady who got carried away with her desire to worship the corpse of St. Francis Xavier and bit off its big toe, which she carried in her mouth to her carriage. I am going to read until the impulse to return to Rome becomes overwhelming.
In its scope and modesty of tone, and grandeur of ambition, St. Peter's is reminiscent of Okrent's book on Rockefeller Center, only Okrent did not seek - whether from laziness or fear of rejection we will never know - the Imprimatur and the Nihil Obstat of his archbishop and Censor assuring his readers that his book is free of doctrinal and moral error, as Lees-Milnes's is.
However all should read the first three volumes of Lees-Milnes' diaries, covering the war and the very cold, coal-less post war years (hence "Caves of Ice").