This book, Salvatore Settis' If Venice Dies (2016), was advertised in the end pages of Anna Maria Ortese's Neapolitan Chronicles, by the same publisher (New Vessel Press), which I read previously. It sounded interesting, and Venice is on my bucket list, so I thought I would give it a try.
Settis, an Italian art historian and former director of the Getty Research Institute, presents a scathing history of development and government corruption that threatens to destroy Venice as we know it. Additionally, he covers the main issue in Venice, which is over tourism. There are 140 tourists for every one citizen in Venice. There were a lot of other facts I did not know, such as, the majority of visitors to Venice disembark from massive cruise ships and stay in Venice only for a few hours; they spend no money, because the cruise supplies their food and other amenities, and they take a few photos, buy a few minor trinkets, and then leave. They bring in 270 million dollars each year in revenue, but cause 350 million dollars in damages each year. Numerous insane development proposals have come in to "make Venice modern" including a massive "Tower of Babel" designed by the late Pierre Cardin (who was Italian, not French) which would have disrupted air traffic as well as producing light pollution beyond your wildest nightmares. There was also a proposal to build a ring of Skyscrapers around Venice, in the name of "protecting" it. The MOSE project, which 1975 was planned to help create a dam to protect Venice from flooding, was just a money pit for the citizens and a boon for every corrupt government official, engineer, and developer with any involvement in it. As of the publication of the book in 2016, MOSE has cost Italy 6 billion dollars, and still hasn't been built. My favorite chapter was XVII (17), on the Ethics of Architecture. Settis makes sure to give a good one to the starchitects like Renzo Piano and Frank Gehry, and others in their business who put profit before conservation and preservation of a city.
Venice is a jewel in the crown of Italian history, but since noone cares about history anymore, and since money is to be made (they think) from development, Venice will die if it is not saved by its people. This is true in many cities, not just Venice, and Settis makes this point. I've seen it here in New York: it cost $25 billion (billion with a "B") for New York to develop Hudson Yards, and it's a dead zone. There's nothing really to do there for normal people; the mall they put there is too high-end; the Neiman Marcus flagship shut down; the apartments are not selling or renting; the central sculpture, called the Vessel for lack of a better name, became a suicide machine (4 suicides in four years of being open); the only cultural thing there is The Shed, and their programming is good but minimal. Taxpayer funds earmarked for public development was accessed for Hudson Yards, and it's a complete waste. Absolutely noone is excited by Hudson Yards. Settis would have predicted as much: high-end development does not work to help a city or bring in revenue. But a lot of creeps make money from the planning and development, and after that, it's the citizens' problem.
Since this is a pre-COVID discussion of Venice and its myriad of problems, it would be nice to have a followup on the Venice situation since COVID. There is a proposal to charge a tax to day visitors to Venice (around 10 euros, not terrible), and an extra hotel tax, to try to offset the cost of damages that tourists cause to the city. There was no mention of the strikes in Venice by fishermen, or other Venetians, which there have been but of which there was no mention. And the Bienniale is not really discussed at all, though it surely contributes to the tourism problem. In translation, some of the sentences seem a bit heavy (in some sentences, the word "city" is used so many times it had to be read more than once). So I knocked off a star for these reasons.
But ultimately there is a lot to be learned here about the dying of a great city, and what people might to to help save it. I thought is was a great and informative read, especially for those of us who love Italy.