If you're a Horatio Hornblower or Jack Aubrey fan, or a student of the maritime aspects of the Napoleonic wars, then you're familiar with the stories of British sailors subsisting on rotten, maggot-ridden salt beef and rock-hard biscuit filled with worms and weevils. These stories have been repeated so often, they're now taken for granted. Macdonald is an expert in food history, however, with more than thirty books to her credit, and a parallel interest in naval history of the Age of Sail, and those tales always sounded extremely unlikely to her -- more seaman's yarns (“how hard it was in the Olde Days”) than fact -- so she set out to investigate the matter based on actual sources and nutritional analysis. What she discovered, through careful reading of captains’ reports, the Victualing Board's accounts (which weere extremely detailed), the records and correspondence of pursers and victualing agents in the field, and similar sources paints quite a different picture.
The typical member of a ship's company consumed rather more calories than a laborer does today (the work of a man-o’-war’s crewman was extremely strenuous), and while he didn't get much variety, he ate essentially the same things land-based working men in Northern Europe ate every winter -- only that was his diet all year round. The author also goes into how provisions were sourced at sea in wartime, how the diet of the officers differed from that of the men (not as different as you might expect, unless you were wealthy), how food was divided up and cooked aboard ship (with highly scrupulous fairness, and always before witneses), and how the patented Brodie stove operated (amazingly high-tech for 1800). The search for fresh vegetables was constant (this was always one of Nelson's greatest concerns), and much energy was devoted to supplying the Navy with antiscorbutics like onions and lemon juice. There's also an interesting section on how and what sailors ate in the other Western navies of the time, almost all of which was new to me. Illustrative anecdotal examples are scattered heavily throughout, and there are even recipes for making your own experimental ship biscuit and other basicnaval foodstuffs at home. A fascinating and carefully written book that's as much social history as military.