Fashioning the Crown: A Story of Power, Conflict, and Couture

by Justine Picardie

The fascinating story of a tumultuous half-century of British history as seen through royal fashion and image-making, taking the reader behind the glamour and mystique of the Crown.

Fashioning the Crown tells the story of a tumultuous half-century of British history through the lens of royal fashion and image-making. Informed by Justine Picardie's entirely original research in the Royal Archives, as well her own interactions with Elizabeth II and her family, it will reveal how, from the outbreak of the First World War to 1960, the soft power of clothing played a crucial role in helping the Royal Family, and the nation, to navigate seismic changes and challenges.

Justine will take us behind the glamor and mystique of the Crown, introducing us afresh to three generations of royals, including the glamorous Queen Mary; the Chanel-wearing young flapper who would become the Queen Mother; and the little Princess Lillibet, already setting fashion trends at the age of three. Justine will reveal the crucial importance of image-making in an era of abdications and assassinations, and amidst the rise of revolutions and fascism. She will also uncover the fascinating, little-known lives of the couturiers behind the clothes.

Figures like Hardy Amies, Edward Molyneux and Norman Hartnell had secrets that they kept in the shadows—from their sexuality, to their work in espionage—even as they dressed some of the most recognizable figures in the world. Fashioning the Crown will present a secretive institution in a captivating new light.

Genres: Nonfiction, History, Royalty, Fashion

464 pages, Hardcover

Published February 24, 2026

About the author

Justine Picardie is a British novelist, fashion writer and biographer. She is the editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar UK and Town & Country UK. Her 2010 biography of Coco Chanel (“Coco Chanel: The Legend & the Life”) was shortlisted for the Galaxy National Book Awards.

Her eldest son is Jamie MacColl, the guitarist for Bombay Bicycle Club.

Ruth Picardie was her sister.

Reviews

[Helen Haythornthwaite · Rating 4 out of 5]

4.5⭐️
I was really surprised at how much I enjoyed reading this book, and how interesting I found it. I had planned to read it a chapter at a time, in between reading other books, but I quickly became engrossed in it and didn’t want to put it down.

The author has previously been Editor-in-Chief of ‘Harper’s Bazaar’ and ‘Town and Country’, as well as features director for ‘Vogue’ and editor of the ‘Observer’ magazine. She has also written about three iconic women - Daphne du Maurier, Coco Chanel and Catherine Dior (sister of the fashion Designer Christian Dior).

In writing this book, Justine has used her expertise in writing, and fashion, to create a very different and intriguing account of the royal family from Queen Victoria’s reign up to, and including, Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation.

It’s a very insightful account, peppered with quotes from letters, memoirs, diaries and the author’s own recollection of her visits to royal residences. The inclusion of clothing and fashion, including fashion designers, adds another dimension which I really warmed to as it’s a topic I’ve previously been unfamiliar with.

I was particularly fascinated by the chapters detailing the relationship between Edward (VIII) and Wallis Simpson, and the subsequent coronation of George VI. I’ve only previously read snippets about this time in history so I found this such a riveting read.

I was also intrigued by the chapters which explored the lives of two men who had previously been involved in ‘the arts’ before joining the war efforts - one as an SOE (Special Operations Executive) agent who was captured, and one who led part of the resistance efforts and assisted during the liberation of Brussels. One of them later painted the Queen Mother, and one became a royal dressmaker to Queen Elizabeth II.

Alongside this compelling narrative are a myriad of photos which show members of the royal family and their associates; and many of the photos I’ve never seen before. The photos are in black in white, as that was the medium used then, but the intricate descriptions of the attire, including the colours, help to bring these even more to life.


I was sent a proof copy of this book, by the publisher, in exchange for an honest review. All opinions are my own.

[Dodi · Rating 4 out of 5]

If you're planning to read Fashioning the Crown, I recommend the print version because it's packed with photographs. I was expecting more fashion and couture; Justine Picardie includes a lot of history along with royal style. Queen Elizabeth's mother, the Queen Mother (so called because they are both named Elizabeth) was unfamiliar to me. I liked learning about her and all her pink things. Wallis Simpson, a central figure in the book, reminded me of the royals I don't like. It's hard for me to understand why she was a popular figure. She seemed to wield fashion as power, and had piles of money lavished on her. She famously owned many expensive pieces of jewelry. A flamingo brooch she was gifted from her husband later sold for over $2 million at auction. As a couple the duke and duchess are despicable, meeting with Hitler during WW2, referring to royals derogatorily in correspondence, smuggling currency, obstructing a murder investigation (for a friend), possibly leaking allied military information (he hoped Germany would help restore him to the throne), and looting valuable family heirlooms. Most of the information about Queen Elizabeth II was familiar; it was still fun to read about her. The royal family and their image makers tell a story of England's monarchy.

[Colleen · Rating 3 out of 5]

Another look at the British royal family and the first half of the 1900s, this time through the prism of fashion and image-making. Personally, I found the cover and title slightly misleading - Elizabeth II is a secondary focus here, with the book ending at her coronation. Picardie is looking at the image legacy Elizabeth inherited, not what she created as queen, though I suppose we can hope for a sequel.

Most of the book examines the abdication, this time comparing and contrasting the public images of the reigning and abdicated couples. The interconnections between both sides of the family were surprising - many of the same designers, jewelers, and photographers created opposing personas which still shape the way we view them all these years later. Picardie wanders through the years, cherrypicking an interesting item - a dress, a necklace, etc - and doing a deep dive, examining the biography of the designer, the events surrounding its creation, and the situations it was worn in.

The approach highlights Picardie's strengths, her background in the fashion world and her personal connections lend her writing a confidential tone and familiarity that prevents confusion over what she doesn't cover as she bounces between the couples and the years. I would have liked more focus on one or the other, between either couples or courts and couture. There are too many interesting threads here, all deserving their own book - the surprising overlap in careers between fashion designer and resistance work is something I'd like to see more of.

[Catherine Jeffrey · Rating 3 out of 5]

Well researched and full of little snippets of information. I did expect it to concentrate more on the fashion of the late Queen given the cover picture.

[Jennie · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book was well written and had some interesting history that I didn't previously know and I liked that aspect of it. Otherwise, this was a strange book. It was kind of all over the place in terms of the chapter structure and who/what was being written about and the fashion aspect was really just listing a bunch of the outfits that some of the royal family wore. The connection of fashion and history was a bit half connected. Also, the author's bias was a bit too clear especially when concerning the former King Edward VIII and Wallis Simpson. There was a lot of "they sympathized with and met many Nazis; they were rude, entitled, and thought King George VI and Queen Elizabeth were dowdy and boring; but they were chic and fashionable and regretted that they weren't powerful anymore so they were okay people!" Which is overall just an insane take on their behavior. I did like that there were a lot of pictures, but there wasn't consistently a picture to match the description of some outfits and jewels the author spent a lot of time talking about which felt odd. Overall, I'd call this more of a flanker book to read if you wanted to learn more about the Windsor family. There's plenty other books that are more informative and consistent concerning history and character.

[Bargain Sleuth Book Reviews · Rating 5 out of 5]

Thanks to Edelweiss and Pegasus Books for the digital copy of this book; I am leaving this review voluntarily.

Fashioning the Crown is just the sort of book on the Royal Family that I love. It’s a look back at the females in the family and how the dressed and who dressed them. The years covered include Queen Victoria, Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother, and Queen Elizabeth II. Of course, no mention of the Queen Mum would be complete without a comparison to the Duchess of Windsor. And that’s what made the book for me.

The majority of the book explores the catfight between the Queen Mother and Wallis, the Duchess of Windsor. The dynamics of their “relationship” make for a juicy read. The parallel of their lives casts a glance at how each woman used fashion for political and societal reasons. There was Queen Elizabeth, the slightly round, jolly on the surface, motherly woman who dressed in pinks with frills. Then, there was Wallis, the Duchess, who was thin and angular, who wore sleek and slim clothes to accent her boyish figure. Both women also wore gobs of jewels.

The author, Justine Picardie, has the perfect resume to write this book about the fashions and how the women of the Royal Family used fashion to convey a message to the public. This exploration of this part of the Royal Family’s “secret history” was enlightening. Whole new generations of Royal Family watchers because of Netflix’s The Crown will enjoy this book.

[Kidlitter · Rating 4 out of 5]

Deep dive into the particulars of women's fashion in the Royal family, exemplified by the work Norman Hartnell did for multiple members, especially the Elizabeths, mother and daughter. Picardie is NOT interested in later generations so no Kate or Megan gossip or even Diana but lots on Wallis. The analyses on how the Queens in the age of public consumption controlled their image with Hartnell's help to be the epitome of conservative feminine power gave me chills as a product of a split Anglo-household with differing views of royalty. My grandmother couldn't have cared lesser in working class Scotland before the war but became a quiet supporter when the then Queen toured around bomb sites, including her residence Buckingham Palace looking like a pastel stuffed chintz chair. My mum, an emigre in Canada, thrilled to the Queen's steadfast duty and continuing appearances in some very hideous outfits she wore with a pained expression. My father, an Australian artist hated the lot and ranted outside the gates of Buckingham Palace about all the art they owned that the public was barred from seeing. He thought them all grafters and us fools for putting up with them. Yet here I am reading this book and learning about Hartnell's tripe life as a designer, spy and gay around town.

[Stuart Miller · Rating 4 out of 5]

An entertaining look at the British monarchy and its use of fashion to project its values to advance certain attitudes and goals. Includes some stunning Cecil Beacon photographs of Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother and Queen Elizabeth II (unfortunately only in black and white) not to mention some stunning photos of the Duchess of Windsor in designer gowns and some fabulous jewelry.

[Tannis · Rating 2 out of 5]

I was disappointed in this book. There was so much drivel to slog through: a whole chapter on two dolls gifted to England from France, for example. I wished for more pictures and less speculation on the sexual proclivities of various designers. Also, too much print time was given to the Duke of Windsor and Wallis Simpson. They should not even have been in the book at all.

[Melanie Brown · Rating 5 out of 5]

Loved the book. Interesting the role fashion plays in society. Makes me want to find out more about Beaton, Amie’s and others mentioned.

Always interested in fashion and the monarchy so a much enjoyed read.

[Miranda Vilar Bailey · Rating 5 out of 5]

An invigorating deep dive into the relationship between clothing and world events. The cover is misleading. Picardie largely analyzes the sartorial choices of Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother and Wallis, Duchess of Windsor. A fascinating study in contrasts. Ostrich feathers and spangles vs. pristine severity. Given the focus on these figures, it is surprising there is not much said about Mainbocher or Elizabeth Handley-Seymour. As the first American couturier, Mainbocher is deserving of a biography of his own. Handley-Seymour remains a shadowy figure in analyses of The Queen Mother's style. Unlike the portraits of Hartnell and Schiaparelli, one doesn't get the sense of what they were like and how they related to their clients. Compared to Picardie's previous book Miss Dior, Fashioning the Crown is more coherent, less tangential. Picardie is most effective when discussing Hardy Amies. It is in the story of Amies that the threads of couture, espionage, and monarchy coalesce and make the book come alive. Unfortunately, the photographs are in black and white, which makes the visual experience less enjoyable. Yet the main point, that monarchy evolves in response to crises, remains true.