When her sons inherited their father's childhood home, once a commercial building for storing and packing pilchards, in a Cornish fishing village, Lindsey Bareham thought it would be a helpful idea to record some of the recipes and memories of this extraordinary place. It started as a notebook for her sons' eyes only, with lists of favourite ways of cooking mackerel, monkfish and sole and how to make mayonnaise to go with the gift of a handsome crab or crayfish, but then it took on its own momentum and became this very special book, full of recollections and anecdotes and fabulous holiday food.
As well as an inspiring collection of fish recipes, there are mouth-watering ideas for al fresco lunches such as Lemon and Garlic Chicken Kebabs, Greek Potato Salad with Coriander and Stewed Beetroot with Lemon Tomatoes. There are hearty autumn and winter meals to linger over, like Slow-braised Lamb with Flageolets, Leek, Chicken and Parsley Pie and Picasso's Valencienne Rice. Puddings are particularly enticing and include Lavender Pears with White Wine and Blackberry and Apple Cobbler.
You don't have to be on holiday in Cornwall to enjoy this lovely food. In fact, this treasure trove of recipes and memories will transport you to the seaside wherever you are.
Lindsey Bareham is one of the UK's most talented cookery writers. Her daily after-work recipe column for the Evening Standard ran for 8 years and she currently writes the much-loved 'Dinner Tonight' column for The Times.
The author of 13 cookery books, including In Praise of the Potato, A Celebration of Soup, The Big Red Book of Tomatoes, The Fish Store, and The Trifle Bowl and Other Tales, Lindsey also co-wrote The Prawn Cocktail Years with Simon Hopkinson, and helped him write Roast Chicken and Other Stories, voted the Most Useful Cookery Book Ever by chefs and food writers.
This recipe collection is written as an ode to traditional Cornish village life, and in particular to the Fish Store, a former fish-processing factory that had become the family home / holiday home of Lindsey Bareham and her family.
The Fish Store had an interesting history - not least because Lindsey Bareham's father-in-law, who was the previous owner, was the bohemian painter Augustus John. This aspect of the book was what captivated me the most, and I wish there was more of it, more anecdotes about lazy childhood days and holiday family gatherings.
The brief history of the house was followed by an extensive collection of recipes - things that were good to cook and eat in that part of Cornwall. The section on fish and seafood was probably the most interesting (it was, afterall, a fishing village), and seemed the most local / topical. The rest were more generic, although they did relate to produce readily grown in allotments in that south-west part of Cornwall.