A stunning work of natural history, science and polar travelogue, Where the Earth Meets the Sky chronicles one woman's journey to study penguins in Antarctica, the most isolated place on the planet.
Antarctica is a land of extremes. It is the coldest, windiest and most inaccessible part of our planet—and now one of the places most affected by climate change. In this moving and personal narrative, conservation biologist Louise K. Blight recounts her summer studying Adélie penguins with one of the world’s great Antarctic scientists. On isolated Ross Island, from which legendary explorers Sir Ernest Shackleton and Robert Falcon Scott attempted to reach the South Pole, Louise and pioneering penguin biologist David Ainley document how the region’s penguins are being affected by the world’s largest-ever iceberg. The iceberg’s impact is geological in scope and life-changing for the tens of thousands of breeding penguins rushing to mate and rear their young.
Surrounded by hostile weather and the hypnotic splendor of Antarctica’s landscape, Louise and David record details of penguin courtship, incubation and chick-rearing against a backdrop of the mental and emotional impacts of extreme weather, ongoing isolation and twenty-four hours of daylight. Interwoven with stories of early explorers and modern-day Antarcticans, the narrative poetically conveys the isolation and the endless silence that ultimately allows her to explore the grief that has lingered since the untimely deaths of her father and sister.
Blending polar travelogue, science and natural history, Where the Earth Meets the Sky is a story about a female scientist navigating Antarctica’s extreme conditions and quirky human subculture. It is a story about how the world’s most unforgiving environment has shaped the psyches of Antarctica’s human visitors, past and present—and how nature can heal the human soul.
Tucked into a niche in the rocks on the bluff during the shoreline watch, I am out of the way of the slight three-knot breeze that is moving the frigid air here tonight. We are sheltered beneath the towering slopes of Mount Erebus and I am warm and even comfortable in my nook. Across McMurdo Sound the mountains and glaciers leading to the Dry Valleys gleam in the clear golden light of evening, and the sunlight sets the ruffled sea on fire. Leisurely groups of Adélie penguins enter and leave the water via the open tidal crack at the edge of the glistening expanse of ice holding fast to the shore. With the air still cold enough to continue to freeze the sea, circles of pancake ice collectively wheel there in a slow ballet, their edges ever thickening where they touch and push together. Even the skuas are languid in their flights, perhaps caught up in the serenity of this limpid Antarctic evening and the clarity and brightness of light and mountains, sea and ice, glaciers and sky.
A mix of science, logistics, scenery that was super informative that is able to transport you to the this place we may never experience as the author has.
Environmental protection is a complex business in Antarctica, and not feeding the skuas is just the tip of that particular iceberg. The Protocol on Environmental Protection to the Antarctic Treaty, as this measure is fully known, is unique in designating an entire continent “as a natural reserve, devoted to peace and science,” and provides a set of rules on how any activities conducted there must protect the Antarctic environment. It was signed by Antarctic Treaty parties in Madrid in 1991, and so is often simply called the Madrid (or Environmental) Protocol, and it entered into force in 1998 via the twenty-six signatory countries’ national laws.
This morning there is barely a breeze but the air temperature is around −20°C and a haze of clouds hides the sun; what little wind there is comes from the south, and the cold bites through my thick parka and the layered clothing beneath it if I stand still for too long. Today provides my first objective lesson in the weather patterns here—northerly winds come from over the ocean, and even when the sea is frozen they presage slightly warmer conditions. But winds from the south originate over the frigid Polar Plateau with its brutally low temperatures (days of −20s to −30s Fahrenheit were considered warm by early explorers), and they often bring bad weather in the form of storms and whiteouts.
A key part of all of our training is the “leave no trace” approach to working in Antarctica. This instruction is a legal requirement under the Antarctic Treaty, and we’re reminded often—before departing Christchurch, on arrival in Antarctica, and now, as part of our basic training—that we mustn’t litter or otherwise dispose of waste products outdoors, disturb or feed wildlife, trample the lichens, alter the environment in any way. In the McMurdo Dry Valleys, even urinating on the ground is forbidden: This is to prevent altering the soil biota and generally affecting these fragile and very stable systems, which are the focus of long-term ecological research in the region.
I was so excited to read about a wildlife biologist who worked as a field assistant to the world’s most renowned penguin scientists. I needed to know more about this adventure as well as add to my love of penguins.
Louise K. Blight recounts the summer of 2003 when she arrived at Ross Island, one of the most remote research sites on the planet to study penguins for the entire field season.
I read in awe at what survival means in Cape Royds, a remote camp 35km from McMurdo. I follow a McMurdo scientist’s Instagram page and love the insight he gives to life in the Antarctic. Learning about the Adelie penguin colony was wonderful as was getting a glimpse of what enduring a field season means. I was always curious about the potential for interpersonal conflict. Blight satisfied my curiosity. I think I was most surprised at the need for constant hydration. It never occurred to me that the exertion and living in the world’s driest continent would contribute to this need.
While Blight’s adventure did satisfy some of my curiosities, I was frustrated with her inclusion of her sister’s fight with cancer and Blight’s inclusion of her colleagues' dislike of his wife’s flannel pajamas. Don't misunderstand, I recognize that the inclusion of Blight's grief was to show how this extreme environment is healing, I just wonder if the focus could have been less detailed/blurred/more surface/less vivid. I’d have appreciated a tauter narrative, with the focus on the environment and the penguins.
Frustrations aside, this was a good look at living in an extreme environment and a wonderful lesson on penguins. I’ve visited the Falklands during hatching season and loved watching the penguins with the eggs and their young. I’ve also seen firsthand the danger of seals to penguins. This story brought back wonderful memories and added to my knowledge of these animals.
I was gifted this copy and was under no obligation to provide a review.
Wonderful book, beautifully written, at once profound and hilarious.
Louise K. Blight makes you feel transported to the wild, frozen end of the world. You share with her the amazement and awe of the stunning landscapes, as well as brutal realities of field work in a harsh environment. Her report from a three month long stay among the penguins is very detailed but never boring. Despite the isolation, she also meets loads of colorful characters - I have to admit that I was surprised by the amount of alcohol consumed in Antarctica. But what I loved most are fragments like that:
„The panoramic beauty slams into me so hard that the sensation is physical, and I spread my arms wide and shout wordlessly to the world, with nobody there to hear. I am tempted to say that this beauty is indescribable, but it is not. It is possible to describe it in pieces: the stark, jagged edge of the volcanic landscape against a pale sky; an unruffled ocean the colour of milk and robins’ eggs in amongst the white purity of the pack ice that floats suspended there; the sunlit perfection of the Royal Society Range towering above McMurdo Sound—all of these things. But each piece the eye lights upon requires its own litany of words, its moment of contemplation, its own relationship with the viewer, some sort of sacrament in order to carry away a tiny piece of its meaning and beauty. Perhaps the whole world is like this but it is only here in the uncluttered spaces of Antarctica that we can appreciate that it is so, each moment of life a tiny meditation”.
Highly recommended to anyone who wants to escape from daily reality.
Thanks to the publisher, Penguin Random House Canada | Bond Street Books, and NetGalley for an advanced copy of this book.