A journey through Britain’s first National Park on its 75th anniversary
On a spring day in 1932, 400 disgruntled ramblers embarked on a 'mass trespass' of Kinder Scout, a plateau in the Peak District in northern England. Their aim? To establish a right to roam across the rugged landscape, against the wishes of wealthy landowners.
The hikers were seeking respite from the smoky industrial centres of Manchester and Sheffield – and eventually they got what they wanted. In 1951, the Peak District was established as Britain’s first national park. Home to striking dragon-back ridges of rock, vast expanses of peat, farms and villages, cloughs and caverns, the Peak is much more than the 'howling wilderness' described by Daniel Defoe three centuries ago.
With the 75th anniversary of the park’s creation looming, how has this dramatic landscape fared since? Celebrated travel writer Tom Chesshyre hit the trails on a 363-mile ramble to find out – and to celebrate this symbolic home of hiking.
Wild Peaks follows winding paths, pausing at old inns and mountain huts, and along the way meeting a rich cast of landowners, farmers, historians, mountaineers, publicans, rangers, right-to-roamers, homeless travellers, mountain rescue members, mystics, dreamers and fellow hikers.
Don your cagoule, grab a compass, and join Tom as he explores how the land has changed, and how we have too.
Tom Chesshyre has been writing travel stories for UK national newspapers for over15 years. After reading politics at Bristol University and completing a journalism diploma from City University, he had stints at the Cambridge Evening News, Sporting Life and Sky Sports. During this period he won the Independent's young sports writer of the year competition and was runner-up in the Financial Times young business writer awards. His first travel piece was about England's cricket fans in Barbados for the Daily Telegraph. He freelanced for the Daily and Sunday Telegraphs, wrote a column for Conde Nast Traveller, and contributed to the Express, the Guardian, and the Independent, before working on the travel desk of the Times. He has assisted with the research on two books - W. G. by Robert Low, a biography of W. G. Grace, and Carlos: Portrait of a Terrorist by Colin Smith, a biography of "Carlos the Jackal". He has written magazine pieces for Wanderlust, Geographical and Business Traveller - and contributes book reviews to the TLS. His travel writing has taken him to more than 75 countries. He lives in south-west London and was born in 1971.
His first book, How Low Can You Go: Round Europe for 1p Each Way (Plus Tax) was published by Hodder in 2007. To Hull and Back: On Holiday in Unsung Britain was published by Summersdale in July 2010, followed by Tales from the Fast Trains: Europe at 186 mph is published in July 2011.
I chuckled when a local man tells Chesshyre, “I would take the number 201 bus […] I wouldn’t walk to Glossop.” When Chesshyre explains that he’s already decided on walking, the man’s shrug seems to convey his thoughts, as in, “don’t say I didn’t warn you.”
I was brought out of my reverie with a jolt when the author likens the movement of the grass, “puffing up in the soft breeze in a manner reminiscent of President Donald Trump’s haircut.” It was an unpleasant surprise and not the only time in the book that he is referred to unfortunately.
References to his disastrous tariffs and later, Chesshyre writes, “I had returned after news of Trump’s latest shenanigans and other troubles, to the walking zone.” I disliked these unwelcome intrusions into my travel daydreams of the beautiful countryside of the Peak District, but perhaps the author felt the need to include current events.
I am a fan of the long-lasting TV series Last of the Summer Wine and was delighted to learn all about Holmfirth. I will have to take a trip to take tea in The Wrinkled Stocking Tearoom, so named because it “had been Nora Batty’s house and was so named as she famously wore them.”
Along the way, Chesshyre meets some interesting characters and we learn a lot about the current social climate of Britain. I appreciated one conversation with a landlady about the art of hospitality. She says that, “We don’t see hospitality as a profession, we see it as a trade, but the government needs to invest in hospitality – in leadership.”
Furthermore, she says that “Some people don’t even know how to make a cup of tea, they’re unable to communicate with customers.” They are well versed in social media but not in the art of interacting in-person with others.
In one of my favourite passages, Chesshyre writes: “Without doubt, if you go on a long walk around the Peak District, you will find yourself picking up some specialist information […] You are not just going on a hike. You are embarking on an (often esoteric) education.”
It was heartening to learn that one of Chesshyre’s favourite walks is ‘from Hartington to Dovedale,’ as the longest walk we completed while vacationing in the Peak District was along that route. We started in Ilam and crossed over the Dovedale Stepping Stones, climbed up the many steps of Lover’s Leap and over the other side.
Eventually, we arrived at Polly’s Cottage in Milldale where we enjoyed some refreshments. It is a wonderful walk, as your constant companion is the soothing melody of the River Dove on your left and high cliff walls hem you in comfortingly on both sides of the river bank. It's like being in a whole other existence separate from everyday life. Depending on the season, there is plenty of colour from the trees and other vegetation.
In his final chapter, Chesshyre writes, “A long walk in the Peak District, 364 miles in all, leaves a lasting impression and also teaches you something: that yes, we can all do many things wrong, but we can also do a lot that is right. Britain’s first national park was proof of that.”
I truly appreciate the glorious colour photographs in the centre of the book and The Hike information including distance covered, places stayed and pubs visited, and the Bibliography at the end of the book.