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Nalu: History, Legends, and Wisdom from 1,000 Years of Hawaiian Surfing
A visually stunning and culturally rich exploration of surfing, the oldest sport in North America and an integral part of Hawaiian society that dates back more than 1,000 years.
Modern surfing culture has existed for only about 100 years. Even the word "surfing" was a Western invention created in the 1800s by early visitors to Hawaiʻi, who had no idea how to describe the sight of Hawaiians riding waves. Little did those Westerners know that Hawaiians already had a name for heʻe nalu, or wave-sliding.
For ancient Hawaiians, this indigenous pastime was more than just a sport or recreation; it was a vital aspect of their society. Heʻe nalu had its own rituals, holidays, shrines, and mythology. When the waves were right, entire villages would abandon their duties to play in the ocean. Men, women, and children would all dive in—riding, competing, flirting, and socializing in the water. Kings and queens claimed the best waves for themselves. Handcrafted boards would be blessed by in a sacred ceremony.
Containing a mix of gorgeous modern and archival surfing photography, surfing proverbs, ceremonies, and legends of ancient Hawaiʻi, and stories and advice from modern water-sport icons, Nalu provides a comprehensive look at surfing's mother culture and the people who have perfected it. Co-authored by Dr. Marie Alohalani Brown, a distinguished scholar of Hawaiian language and lifelong practitioner of Hawaiian water culture, and Ian Lendler, an award-winning author and dedicated surfer, Nalu draws from historical texts, many of which Alohalani has translated into English for the first time. A vibrant celebration of a time-honored tradition, Nalu is an essential read for those seeking a deeper understanding of surfing, and anyone who feels a connection to the ocean.
Modern surfing culture has existed for only about 100 years. Even the word "surfing" was a Western invention created in the 1800s by early visitors to Hawaiʻi, who had no idea how to describe the sight of Hawaiians riding waves. Little did those Westerners know that Hawaiians already had a name for heʻe nalu, or wave-sliding.
For ancient Hawaiians, this indigenous pastime was more than just a sport or recreation; it was a vital aspect of their society. Heʻe nalu had its own rituals, holidays, shrines, and mythology. When the waves were right, entire villages would abandon their duties to play in the ocean. Men, women, and children would all dive in—riding, competing, flirting, and socializing in the water. Kings and queens claimed the best waves for themselves. Handcrafted boards would be blessed by in a sacred ceremony.
Containing a mix of gorgeous modern and archival surfing photography, surfing proverbs, ceremonies, and legends of ancient Hawaiʻi, and stories and advice from modern water-sport icons, Nalu provides a comprehensive look at surfing's mother culture and the people who have perfected it. Co-authored by Dr. Marie Alohalani Brown, a distinguished scholar of Hawaiian language and lifelong practitioner of Hawaiian water culture, and Ian Lendler, an award-winning author and dedicated surfer, Nalu draws from historical texts, many of which Alohalani has translated into English for the first time. A vibrant celebration of a time-honored tradition, Nalu is an essential read for those seeking a deeper understanding of surfing, and anyone who feels a connection to the ocean.
292 pages, Kindle Edition
Published August 4, 2026
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Displaying 1 - 9 of 9 reviews
Review of advance copy received from Netgalley
Marie Brown and Ian Lender have co-authored a beautiful nonfiction book about the history and folklore of Hawaiian surfing.
I specifically requested this ARC from NetGalley after seeing the title and description available. The book is set to be published in August 2026.
Shocker: Surfing did not origionate in Huntington Beach, California 😉. Even though most of us surfing snobs who grew up surfing in SoCal might erroneously tell people that, it is sadly far from true. This book dispenses those rumors in a graceful way.
Nalu goes through over 100 years of Hawaiian surfing history. Of course, back then, it was called wave sliding instead of surfing.
The book contains beautiful pictures, not only of surfers, but of the ritualistic scenery as well as of the islands themselves.
Sections of the book I really enjoyed contained cultural proverbs. prayers, and legendary surfing myths.
If you have been or are a surfer, or enjoy watching surfing, this book is for you. Its very interesting to read how the sport evolved.
I have to admit, my boards are calling.
Thank you to NetGalley, the publisher, and the authors for a wonderful, well-researched, heartfelt book.
I specifically requested this ARC from NetGalley after seeing the title and description available. The book is set to be published in August 2026.
Shocker: Surfing did not origionate in Huntington Beach, California 😉. Even though most of us surfing snobs who grew up surfing in SoCal might erroneously tell people that, it is sadly far from true. This book dispenses those rumors in a graceful way.
Nalu goes through over 100 years of Hawaiian surfing history. Of course, back then, it was called wave sliding instead of surfing.
The book contains beautiful pictures, not only of surfers, but of the ritualistic scenery as well as of the islands themselves.
Sections of the book I really enjoyed contained cultural proverbs. prayers, and legendary surfing myths.
If you have been or are a surfer, or enjoy watching surfing, this book is for you. Its very interesting to read how the sport evolved.
I have to admit, my boards are calling.
Thank you to NetGalley, the publisher, and the authors for a wonderful, well-researched, heartfelt book.
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
A great big Mahalo to Clarkson Potter/Ten Speed Press and NetGalley for sharing the wonderful and beautiful book Nalu: History, Legends, and Wisdom from 1,000 Years of Hawaiian Surfing by Marie Alohalani Brown and Ian Lendler. I had the pleasure of visiting Hawaii recently, and I was amazed not just by the natural beauty of the land, but also on the stewardship and care that most Hawaiians display of their land and sea. During out trip, we also visited the Polynesian Cultural Center and were able to learn more about the various cultures that comprise Polynesia and Pacific Islands, learning more about their distinct and shared beliefs and practices from which indigenous Hawaiian culture descends. I was also amazed at the interest and pride in Hawaiian culture around the islands, since it’s not something I new much about prior to visiting. I’m grateful that Dr. Brown and Lendler’s research and documentation in their book Nalu adds to the body of knowledge about Polynesian and Pacific Islander culture, history, with a specific focus on the practice of surfing in Hawaii.
I loved the way this book examines history, culture, and mythology to identify the ways that a cultural practice has evolved over time to become a modern sport and pastime for many people around the world. The authors not only identify early instances of the practice of Nalu in Hawaii and other Polynesian islands, but also examine the cultural relationship that Hawaiians have with the water, often stressing how essential it is to their daily lives. It’s a beautiful reminder of our own need to reconnect with nature and to emphasize how we are part of our environments. The authors not only identify cultural beliefs and practices, but also share myths that demonstrate and explain the origins of these beliefs into how waves formed, and how different gods and goddesses utilized waves and surfing to travel from island to island, to show off or to demonstrate their own mastery over nature, with a reminder about the power of nature and the need to respect it as well. In addition, the authors provide glossaries of terms related to oceans and surfing, to further educate readers about indigenous Hawaiian beliefs. It’s fascinating to learn the variety of terms to describe waves and the parts of waves and surf. These sections are accompanied by both historical drawings and texts, sometimes coming from early encounters with indigenous Hawaiians, as well as beautiful color photos in the ocean of surfers.
Other sections in the book present the history of modern surfing and the different kinds of boards that have been used over time. This was also a fascinating section to learn more about how surfing spread through tourism and Duke Kahanamoku, the Olympic swimmer who brought surfing to the mainland and encouraged others to find a board and catch a wave. I loved learning more about him, since I wasn’t familiar with his or his brothers’ swimming accomplishments as Olympic athletes. There are other sections as well that detail some other integral figures in the world of surfing including Rell Sunn and Eddie Aikau, and how their contributions to surfing helped to further increase interest in surfing. For example, Rell Sunn became one of the first female surfing champions and established female surf competition divisions. Her story shows how integral the ocean is to Hawaiian culture. I also didn’t realize that the major annual surf competition, The Eddie, was named after Eddie Aikau, who took part on the sailing of The Hōkūle’a, a traditional Polynesian craft that set sail from Hawaii and was part of the second wave of Hawaiian cultural renaissance. The Hōkūle’a encountered rough waves, eventually flipping, leaving the crew clinging to the side of the boat. Eddie Aikau set off on his surfboard to find help but was never seen again. The crew was rescued, but Eddie’s body was never recovered. Eddie’s brother, Clyde, created the Eddie surf competition to commemorate his brother’s love of big waves and to celebrate the Hawaiian cultural traditions of surfing. There are some cool and touching stories about sea turtles helping to lead winning surfers to big waves, and Clyde believed the turtles somehow represented the spirit of Eddie. Brown and Lendler detail their contributions to surfing in helping to not only maintain some traditional Hawaiian practices, but also to share the love of being out on the ocean and spending a day riding the waves. I loved the way that Brown and Lendler don’t just recap these stories, but really frame them in an educational context, reconnecting their importance to Hawaiian culture and providing context, examples, definitions, and other essential information to ensure that non-native Hawaiians understand the cultural and historical significance of these individuals, myths, practices, and beliefs. The authors make learning about Hawaiian culture not only educational but also engaging and fun.
Nalu is a fabulous book filled not only with beautiful pictures and images from history, but also incredible stories and myths highlighting Hawaiian culture, beliefs, and values. While Nalu reinforced my appreciation and love for Hawaii, it will surely spark interest in traveling there if readers have yet to visit. Although I read the digital version, I can only imagine how striking the physical version of the book will be. Highly recommended as a book for those interested in culture, mythology, history, and travel.
I loved the way this book examines history, culture, and mythology to identify the ways that a cultural practice has evolved over time to become a modern sport and pastime for many people around the world. The authors not only identify early instances of the practice of Nalu in Hawaii and other Polynesian islands, but also examine the cultural relationship that Hawaiians have with the water, often stressing how essential it is to their daily lives. It’s a beautiful reminder of our own need to reconnect with nature and to emphasize how we are part of our environments. The authors not only identify cultural beliefs and practices, but also share myths that demonstrate and explain the origins of these beliefs into how waves formed, and how different gods and goddesses utilized waves and surfing to travel from island to island, to show off or to demonstrate their own mastery over nature, with a reminder about the power of nature and the need to respect it as well. In addition, the authors provide glossaries of terms related to oceans and surfing, to further educate readers about indigenous Hawaiian beliefs. It’s fascinating to learn the variety of terms to describe waves and the parts of waves and surf. These sections are accompanied by both historical drawings and texts, sometimes coming from early encounters with indigenous Hawaiians, as well as beautiful color photos in the ocean of surfers.
Other sections in the book present the history of modern surfing and the different kinds of boards that have been used over time. This was also a fascinating section to learn more about how surfing spread through tourism and Duke Kahanamoku, the Olympic swimmer who brought surfing to the mainland and encouraged others to find a board and catch a wave. I loved learning more about him, since I wasn’t familiar with his or his brothers’ swimming accomplishments as Olympic athletes. There are other sections as well that detail some other integral figures in the world of surfing including Rell Sunn and Eddie Aikau, and how their contributions to surfing helped to further increase interest in surfing. For example, Rell Sunn became one of the first female surfing champions and established female surf competition divisions. Her story shows how integral the ocean is to Hawaiian culture. I also didn’t realize that the major annual surf competition, The Eddie, was named after Eddie Aikau, who took part on the sailing of The Hōkūle’a, a traditional Polynesian craft that set sail from Hawaii and was part of the second wave of Hawaiian cultural renaissance. The Hōkūle’a encountered rough waves, eventually flipping, leaving the crew clinging to the side of the boat. Eddie Aikau set off on his surfboard to find help but was never seen again. The crew was rescued, but Eddie’s body was never recovered. Eddie’s brother, Clyde, created the Eddie surf competition to commemorate his brother’s love of big waves and to celebrate the Hawaiian cultural traditions of surfing. There are some cool and touching stories about sea turtles helping to lead winning surfers to big waves, and Clyde believed the turtles somehow represented the spirit of Eddie. Brown and Lendler detail their contributions to surfing in helping to not only maintain some traditional Hawaiian practices, but also to share the love of being out on the ocean and spending a day riding the waves. I loved the way that Brown and Lendler don’t just recap these stories, but really frame them in an educational context, reconnecting their importance to Hawaiian culture and providing context, examples, definitions, and other essential information to ensure that non-native Hawaiians understand the cultural and historical significance of these individuals, myths, practices, and beliefs. The authors make learning about Hawaiian culture not only educational but also engaging and fun.
Nalu is a fabulous book filled not only with beautiful pictures and images from history, but also incredible stories and myths highlighting Hawaiian culture, beliefs, and values. While Nalu reinforced my appreciation and love for Hawaii, it will surely spark interest in traveling there if readers have yet to visit. Although I read the digital version, I can only imagine how striking the physical version of the book will be. Highly recommended as a book for those interested in culture, mythology, history, and travel.
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
If you ever just read only one book about surfing, this is the one to read. This book will teach you about surfing culture the Kānaka Maoli (indigenous Hawaiian) way. It includes so much in it, mythology, history, ʻŌlelo Hawaii, tradition, legends, waves, everything. I was born and raised in Hawaii to a surfing family, my dad surfed way back in the day for Greg Noll. I learned to surf at 8 years old, after passing my “swim test” from my dad where I swam out to Ala Moana reef and back by myself. My brother started surfing even earlier than I had!
Nalu is about the heart, soul, and mana of surfing. It discusses the origins, the history, and all of it from a Hawaiian perspective as it should be. The content is deep and well researched without it dragging or being boring. The photos and illustrations are amazing. There are photos of Duke Kahanamoku, Eddie Aikau, Buffalo Keaulana, Gerry Lopez, and many absolute legends of the Hawaii surfing community. There are also wonderful ocean and wildlife photos, and this would make an amazing gift as a coffee table book. I already know I’m buying two copies upon release of this book, for my Dad and my brother, who will be fully engrossed by the content in Nalu.
I especially loved the photos and stories of Rell Sunn and Buffalo Keaulana and the gorgeous photos of Makaha. This hit on nostalgia for a time gone by as well as hope for the future, that more surfers will learn the history of Hawai’i and respect for the ocean and the waves. If you have any friends or family into surfing, this book will be an absolute treat for them to enjoy.
Thank you to Marie Alohalani Brown, Ian Lendler, and Clarkson Potter / Ten Speed Press for this advanced reader copy.
Nalu is about the heart, soul, and mana of surfing. It discusses the origins, the history, and all of it from a Hawaiian perspective as it should be. The content is deep and well researched without it dragging or being boring. The photos and illustrations are amazing. There are photos of Duke Kahanamoku, Eddie Aikau, Buffalo Keaulana, Gerry Lopez, and many absolute legends of the Hawaii surfing community. There are also wonderful ocean and wildlife photos, and this would make an amazing gift as a coffee table book. I already know I’m buying two copies upon release of this book, for my Dad and my brother, who will be fully engrossed by the content in Nalu.
I especially loved the photos and stories of Rell Sunn and Buffalo Keaulana and the gorgeous photos of Makaha. This hit on nostalgia for a time gone by as well as hope for the future, that more surfers will learn the history of Hawai’i and respect for the ocean and the waves. If you have any friends or family into surfing, this book will be an absolute treat for them to enjoy.
Thank you to Marie Alohalani Brown, Ian Lendler, and Clarkson Potter / Ten Speed Press for this advanced reader copy.
August 6, 2026
(Arc) Thank you Clarkson potter/ Ten Speed Press for, Marie Alohalani Brown, and Ian Lendler
This was a spectacular wave I caught being able to get my hands on this book, you dive deep into the history of Hawaiian/ Polynesian beliefs and traditions, the long journeys they took to settle in Hawaii. I loved all the scattered stories of Gods/ Goddesses and the deep connection with the ocean Hawaiians feel from the moment they are born. The photographs were all gorgeous, and I couldn’t just pick a favorite. My favorite part was learning about old ways of making wooden boards, and lifeguard portion. What will stick with me is the resilience of Hawaiians to fight to erase or white wash their ideas, culture, language and beliefs. This is a book that is perfect for a gifting and a great conversation starter about what we have been project to believe in media about surfing and its roots.
This was a spectacular wave I caught being able to get my hands on this book, you dive deep into the history of Hawaiian/ Polynesian beliefs and traditions, the long journeys they took to settle in Hawaii. I loved all the scattered stories of Gods/ Goddesses and the deep connection with the ocean Hawaiians feel from the moment they are born. The photographs were all gorgeous, and I couldn’t just pick a favorite. My favorite part was learning about old ways of making wooden boards, and lifeguard portion. What will stick with me is the resilience of Hawaiians to fight to erase or white wash their ideas, culture, language and beliefs. This is a book that is perfect for a gifting and a great conversation starter about what we have been project to believe in media about surfing and its roots.
August 9, 2026
"Nalu: History, Legend, and Wisdom from 1,000 Years of Hawaiian Surfing" is breathtaking- just a true joy to read and peruse the incredible photography. I was captivated by the deep cultural respect and historical stories. You don’t have to be brought up in surf culture or even have a deep knowledge of surfing to enjoy this book. Likely it’ll give people who have no prior experience with surfing a newfound appreciation and for those of us brought up in it, it’s a beautiful reminder and celebration. I think it’s a brilliantly written and photographed book.
Thank you, Marie Alohalani Brown, Ian Lendler, Clafrkson Potter, and NetGalley for this treasure of a book, it’s wonderful!
Thank you, Marie Alohalani Brown, Ian Lendler, Clafrkson Potter, and NetGalley for this treasure of a book, it’s wonderful!
February 14, 2026
Such a beautiful book that looks at the history of surfing through Hawaiian culture. You are also introduced to numerous aspects of Hawaiian culture which i always love learning about. Plus the photographs are stunning!
I received a free advanced copy of this book through NetGalley in exchange for an honest review.
I received a free advanced copy of this book through NetGalley in exchange for an honest review.
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
Thank you Netgalley for an advanced copy!
An excellent history of Hawaii and surfing, filled with photographs both current and historical of the very ancient art of surfing, detailing its history and how it has undergone a true renaissance of late, as the people of Hawaii reclaim what imperialists tried to take from them.
An excellent history of Hawaii and surfing, filled with photographs both current and historical of the very ancient art of surfing, detailing its history and how it has undergone a true renaissance of late, as the people of Hawaii reclaim what imperialists tried to take from them.
Review of advance copy received from Publisher
Stunning. One of the most beautiful books about surfing I've ever seen. Plus, it features so many aspects of Hawaiian water culture (not just surfing) that it gave me a much deeper sense of where surfing comes from. Some of the stories in this book have never even been translated into English before!
This is a definite must-own for any surfer, or just someone who loves the ocean.
This is a definite must-own for any surfer, or just someone who loves the ocean.
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
Displaying 1 - 9 of 9 reviews