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Audible Audio
Published March 24, 2026
"The shoreline became more colorful after every night of frost. Many trees held onto their green, but each morning we noticed a new maple that had shaded itself in a hot color, or a new cold-yellow aspen. Or a tall birch that stood out so sharply against the green background that even over a fifty-meter strait, I felt I could pick out every single slender, translucent leaf. The long, winding autumnal shoreline resembled scenery from a Kim Ki-Duk film or something out of a Kawabata novel. A fetish with chinoiserie, Zoia poked fun at me. À la coréenne, I prompted."
As soon as we had come out of the rain, the same physical sensation came over her too. Empty-headedness, a weakened heart, insides coldly putrefying. Flexible limbs, boneless rubber. Muscles atrophying, the weakening skeleton, the softening mind – all painlessly, which is the most frightening part of it: dissolving imperceptibly into your surroundings, slowly filing down like the moon, and then becoming translucent, and you weather away into thin air.
The place was removed from the famous tourist trails. None of the highest peaks for anyone to "conquer" were nearby, only ones of middling height. Far to our left, Petros peak protruded. That's where the hikers go.
The rounded dome of Sheshul was closer. People go there less often. Our location was a few hundred meters lower in altitude, so not as interesting.
And the road leads nowhere, a natural dead end of steep slopes densely forested with spruce, firs, and pine. The old names for the peaks around here didn't even show up on maps until smartphones came about. Web maps still show different names for some of them. Some time ago, I personally named one of the smaller mountains on a hiking app. I checked the route with Vasyl, climbed to the top, marked the place on the app, and gave it a name.
True, when I asked our inside man for the local name, Vasyl answered with uncertainty, jokingly invented a name on the spot, and then added, "Why do we need to name every hilltop anyhow?" So, I'm still unsure whether I climbed and named the right hill.
The highest peak in this area-the round-topped mountain we were traversing up in our Daewoo-has several names, just like Sagarmatha-Everest-Chomolungma, but an unknown, miniature version. To my and Zoïa's delight, we noted the local curiousity of place names ending in -os or -ul. I made a mental note to ask or read up on why that is.
I will probably never find out now.