“I’ll Have the Chicken Fried Steak”: The True Story of a Lone Star Icon and the Newspaper Gag that Cooked Up an Enduring Myth

by Mike Cox, LARRY BESAW, Wayne Jackson

“I’ll Have the Chicken Fried Steak” debunks the enduring myth that
Texas’ beloved comfort food originated in 1911 at a Lamesa, Texas café
called Ethel’s Home Cooking. Actually, Austin American-Statesman
reporter Larry BeSaw cooked up the tall tale in 1976. What BeSaw and
two journalistic co-conspirators didn’t count on was that a well-known
syndicated columnist would pilfer the story without attribution. Worse,
he told it for truth. That inspired countless retellings.
This book exposes this literary rustling and goes on to tell the real
story behind a beloved Lone Star State icon. Beyond that, “I’ll Have
the Chicken Fried Steak” offers a hardy serving of laughs, CFS-related
tales and great recipes.

194 pages, Kindle Edition

Published November 17, 2025

About the author

I am the author of 15 nonfiction books, the most recent being "Time of the Rangers" (New York: Forge Books, 2009), the second of my two-volume history of the Texas Rangers. Also just out is "Historic Photos of Texas Oil," (Nashville: Turner Publishing), a coffeetable book containing some 200 vintage photos from the oil patch. My other books include a study of Texas disasters, three other books on the Texas Rangers, one true crime story, a biography, a memoir and three local histories, as well as numerous magazine articles, essays and introductions for other books. I have been an elected member of the Texas Institute of Letters since 1993.

My byline regularly appears in a number of national and statewide magazines and I have been an award-winning newspaper reporter for nearly 20 years, most of that time with the Austin American-Statesman.

Reviews

[Hannah Brooks · Rating 5 out of 5]

I’ll Have the Chicken Fried Steak is far more than a simple myth-busting book, it’s an engaging exploration of how stories are born, evolve, and ultimately become part of cultural identity. Mike Cox takes what seems like a small, almost humorous misconception about the origins of chicken fried steak and transforms it into a compelling narrative about journalism, credibility, and the power of repetition. The way he traces the journey of a fabricated story into accepted “fact” is both fascinating and a little eye-opening.

What truly elevates this book is its tone. Cox writes with a relaxed confidence and a sense of humor that makes the reader feel like they’re being let in on a long-kept secret. At the same time, there’s a clear respect for the traditions and culture surrounding this iconic dish. The addition of recipes and side stories gives the book a warm, almost communal feel, as if you’re sitting around a table hearing these tales firsthand. It’s an incredibly satisfying blend of history, humor, and cultural reflection that leaves a lasting impression.

[Mason Carter · Rating 5 out of 5]

Mike Cox demonstrates remarkable storytelling skill in this book, turning what could have been a niche historical correction into a thoroughly engaging and memorable read. The narrative is carefully constructed, gradually revealing how a playful newspaper fabrication spiraled into a widely believed origin story. It’s a testament to Cox’s ability to find significance in unexpected places and present it in a way that feels both meaningful and entertaining.

What stands out most is how accessible the book is. Even readers who may not initially be interested in food history or Texas culture will find themselves drawn in by the human element, the decisions, oversights, and coincidences that allowed the myth to grow. Cox doesn’t just present facts; he tells a story about storytelling itself, making the book both informative and thought-provoking.

[Charlotte Powell · Rating 5 out of 5]

I’ll Have the Chicken Fried Steak is an exceptionally enjoyable and thought-provoking read that manages to be both entertaining and insightful at the same time. On the surface, it’s a fun look at a food myth, but beneath that, it’s a deeper exploration of how narratives are shaped, shared, and preserved over time.

The writing is engaging and full of personality, making it easy to stay invested from beginning to end. Cox and his co-contributors strike a perfect balance between humor and substance, ensuring that the book never feels too heavy while still delivering meaningful insights. By the time you finish, you’re left not only with a clearer understanding of the truth behind the myth but also with a greater appreciation for the stories we choose to believe. It’s a memorable and rewarding read that stands out in its genre.