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Secret Language of Victorian Jewelry: The History and Lore of Gems, Charms, and Talismans

Discover the forgotten Victorian meanings behind the gems, jewels, and symbols in our everyday jewelry with this entrancing guide to more than sixty classic motifs.

Hearts, butterflies, and buckles are the stock and trade of today's trendiest jewelers. But did you know that these jewelry motifs, from the heart earrings you bought as a teenager at Claire’s, to the pearl necklace you remember your grandmother wearing, to the hair brooches popular at the Met Gala, take their cues from the Victorian era?

Hearts became trendy when Queen Victoria first began to wear them as part of her mourning wardrobe. Butterflies, an emblem for immortality, were all the rage in brooches. And buckles, symbolizing protection and fidelity, were popularized as the symbol for the underground Victorian society, the Order of the Garter.

Taking readers into the secret history of more than sixty jewelry symbols, motifs, and jewels, Secret Language of Jewelry is the first of its kind—a guide that marries the past and present, helping us better understand our wardrobe choices and allowing us to choose the most meaningful and intentional gifts.

Written in a wry, engaging tone that brings the past to life, this book features stunning art with vivid historic examples of each topic. Armed with this manual, jewelry enthusiasts will be able to decode the hidden significance behind family heirlooms and celebrity wardrobe choices alike. All jewelry makes a statement—Secret Language of Jewelry will empower readers to choose theirs.

272 pages, Hardcover

Published August 18, 2026

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About the author

Amy Azzarito

5 books5 followers
For the past eleven years, Amy Azzarito has been on the forefront of predicting trends in design while also discovering designers and makers and highlighting their crafts. With a degree in the History of Decorative Arts & Design from Parsons and experience lecturing at universities and historical societies across the country, Amy is a sought-after expert on the topic of design history both past and present.

She has contributed to Food52, Refinery29, Brit & Co, Food52, Design Milk and Architectural Digest. She is the former Managing Editor of the trend-setting blog Design*Sponge.

Amy lives in Marin County, California with her husband Mark and their almost four-year-old daughter Stella.

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5 stars
16 (37%)
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16 (37%)
3 stars
9 (20%)
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 31 reviews
Profile Image for Rebecca.
809 reviews
Review of advance copy received from Netgalley
March 4, 2026
This book is absolutely amazing; there is so much incredible information included and the photographs and illustrations are amazing. Although I already know quite a bit about the Victorian period and some about the jewelry, most of this was new information. I obviously knew all of the basic information, like the different gemstones and birthstones, things like that. Really loved learning things like where the tradition of where the 'something blue' at the wedding comes from and removing the garter belt at the wedding.

Definitely would recommend this.
Profile Image for The Sassy Bookworm.
4,316 reviews2,916 followers
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
August 15, 2026
Book Review: The Secret Language of Victorian Jewelry by Amy Azzarito

Rating: 4 Stars

I recently picked up The Secret Language of Victorian Jewelry by Amy Azzarito and found myself completely captivated by its charm and depth. The book delves into the hidden meanings and symbolism behind more than sixty classic jewelry motifs that originated during the Victorian era—many of which continue to influence modern designs today.

From hearts that became popularized through Queen Victoria’s mourning customs, to butterflies representing immortality, and buckles symbolizing protection and fidelity (even linked to secret societies like the Order of the Garter), Azzarito uncovers the fascinating stories behind the gems and symbols we often take for granted. Whether it’s the heart-shaped earrings you might have bought as a teenager or the pearls your grandmother wore, this book connects these pieces to their rich historical roots.

What I especially loved was how the author’s witty and engaging writing style really brings these old symbols to life, making the past feel vibrant and relevant. The book is beautifully illustrated with stunning artworks and photographs that complement each motif perfectly. The layout itself is a real standout—it feels like a luxurious scrapbook, with clever design touches and a high-quality finish that make flipping through it a joy.

Organizing the motifs and gems alphabetically makes it super easy to browse quickly or use as a reference, which I think adds to its appeal as both an informative guide and a stylish coffee table book. Whether you’re a jewelry enthusiast looking to decode heirlooms or simply someone intrigued by fashion history, this book offers a unique perspective that deepens your appreciation for everyday adornments.

All in all, The Secret Language of Victorian Jewelry is a beautifully crafted, insightful, and enjoyable read. It earns a solid four stars from me and I definitely recommended for anyone who loves jewelry or history.

⚠️This review was written based on personal opinions and experiences with the book. Individual preferences may vary⚠️
68 reviews
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
July 22, 2026
I really enjoyed reading Amy Azzarito's "Secret Language of Victorian Jewelry".
The first thing that stands out is the book's gorgeous layout. It gives a high quality scrap-book feeling and uses clever design elements. Paintings, photographs and jewelry pieces are placed crisscrossing each other, but beautifully curated. The ripped scraps and aged paper are nice details as well.
The book isn't only aesthetically pleasing, but the organization of the motifs and gemstones in alphabetical order, makes it highly scannable and perfect as a quick reference manual. It's sort of a mini-encyclopedia. You can pick up the book, read a couple of symbols and put it back down for later.
Azzarito finds a balance between an easy read and an informative guide. The book is packed with fascinating trivia and gives real insights into why people wore these kind of jewels.
It has so much information, yet it does not get overwhelming. It is clear that Azzarito did a lot of research, but yet it never feels like getting a dry history lesson.
It is the perfect, bite-sized read for anyone who wants to look at their own jewelry collection through a whole new lens , for anyone that needs guidance shopping for jewelry in thrift stores or for anyone that is interested in learning more about jewelry.

This review is based on the ARC I got through Netgalley.
Profile Image for Rose.
470 reviews1 follower
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
July 2, 2026
A book like this would have sent me through the roof as a kid - pretty jewelry with hidden messages and meanings? Sign me up.
While adult me is still a magpie at heart, this book also interested me for the history it contained. I liked that Azzarito included details about the history and symbolism of each item outside of Europe.
Regardless of the historical content, though, this isn't a scholarly book. There are very few references and a limited bibliography, with no footnotes or endnotes connecting to the details listed in the (scant) text. The writing was also fairly casual and riddled with slang, which sometimes brought humor to the text and other times had an unprofessional tone.
I will definitely be perusing the sources that were included in the bibliography, as there were multiple stories I wanted to look more into. While I don't think this would be useful for reference material or any professional research, it's a decently interesting coffee table book with some neat pictures (even if none of the pictures are of the jewelry being discussed in the text). Thank you so much to NetGalley and Ten Speed Press for the eARC!
Profile Image for Charlotte.
605 reviews18 followers
Review of advance copy received from Netgalley
March 4, 2026
With thanks to NetGalley and the publisher for the advance publication.

This is a beautiful coffee table book on jewelry, organised by symbol. Images like anchors, violets, or minerals and materials like pearl, opal, or ruby all get explained in their own chapter with gorgeous images and rich examples. I disliked that there were no direct sources for claims made in the text (there is a bibliography at the back), but I understand that this is a book to look and wonder at, not a sourcebook for folk beliefs through the ages. Most of the “secret meanings” were also rather straightforward to me, but I don’t think I’m very average in my knowlegde of symbolism.

I was also a bit disappointed that a lot of the examples given aren’t actually Victorian. Of course, it’s nice to see how images have carried meaning throughout the ages, from Egypt to now, but I wanted to see Victorian jewelry, not just “jewelry with symbolic meaning”. Still, I’d be delighted to recieve this as a gift to wonder at.

Profile Image for Anastey.
797 reviews10 followers
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
June 12, 2026
Thank you Amy Azzarito for sending me this advance review copy for free. I am leaving this review voluntarily.

This book is absolutely fascinating!

I love how much detail it went into the meaning of the various kinds of Victorian jewelry and symbols. I had no idea something as simple as an acorn or buckles had a deeper meaning other than being pretty. I did know that the various stones have their own meanings, but it never occurred to me that you could use them to spell words like an alphabet too!

The artwork and photos in this book were stunning, and the information in each section was well written, without being dry or heavy. It was very easy to read and enjoy, and would make a fantastic coffee table book to pick up and read a few pages here and there.

I will never look at jewelry the same way again, and it will be fun to see if modern jewelry still carries the same weight.
Profile Image for The Starry Library.
502 reviews33 followers
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
April 3, 2026
Secret Language of Victorian Jewelry is a treasure trove of knowledge all about the symbolism and history of Victorian jewelry. As a life long jewelry collector, I absolutely loved this book. Each chapter focused on a different symbol or stone commonly found in 19th century jewelry, describing its history and symbolism- a secret language. The photographs were beautiful, and I can imagine it took a lot of research to source the information contained within these pages. Each chapter is concise but packed with a lot of information, not only exclusive to Victorian meanings.

If you love jewelry or history, or both, I highly recommend reading Secret Language of Victorian Jewelry. It would make a beautiful coffee table book or a helpful guide for artists.

Thank you to the publisher for providing me with a free arc via NetGalley in exchange for an honest review.
Profile Image for julia.
61 reviews1 follower
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
April 13, 2026
I received this as an e-ARC from Clarkson Potter via NetGalley in exchange for a review. All thoughts are my own.

As a jewelry lover, this book was fun! It’s definitely a way to kill an hour or two. The layout of it is absolutely gorgeous. I’d love to see what it looks like in physical form.

I will admit, there were moments where it felt the topic of the chapter/section didn’t correlate to the 19th century or Victorian period and a painting was placed there just to say ‘nineteenth century’ or inserting a random painting of someone form that century to make it fit the overall “Victorian” theme of the book.

Every chapter begins with the topic and what varying cultures believed regarding that stone or symbol with all the citations in the back. Though it might appear as a coffee-table book, it goes a bit deeper than that and needs sources cited in text.

3.5 stars rounded up.
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
67 reviews
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
May 15, 2026
I learned a lot about how different cultures and famous people adopted different stones and symbols. So it was interesting and had lots of pictures a nice book to flip through.

However, this did not feel focused enough on the subject the title promises, it didn't seem to be focused on Victorian jewellery at all, much more "the secret language of jewellery" it has loads of anecdotes from other time periods with no focus on the time period in the title. It is also a bit anticlimatic when the author describes jewellery worn by someone like the Queen and then doesn't include a photograph of the jewellery being described. A bibliography would also be great.

Its not bad an definitely worth a read if this is a topic that interests you but it isn't the academic type book focused on the Victorian era specifically that I hoped for.
Profile Image for Maddie.
12 reviews1 follower
Review of advance copy received from Netgalley
March 22, 2026
The layout is undeniably gorgeous and the artwork throughout the book is beautiful.
Though, I expected more of an artistic reference style book, but I felt it read more like a dense coffee table book.
I also appreciated the wide range of meanings mentioned, from different religious and cultural beliefs on the jewelry.
However, the book would benefit greatly from clearer sourcing. There’s a lot of meanings about all the jewelry mentioned, but no credits for the direct claims or cultural significance. Given the large number of content additional sources would be of help for those interested in researching these topics further.

Thank you NetGalley and Ten Speed Press for the advanced ebook copy.
Profile Image for Charissa Wilkinson.
1,210 reviews16 followers
Read
April 8, 2026
I received this book courtesy of Netgalley for the purpose of a fair and honest review.

Overview: Jewelry has been around since time immemorable. But, were you ever able to pass encoded messages with it? Mrs. Azzarito thinks so. This book has each charm, gem, and would-be talisman, each listed with their Victorian era meanings. What will we learn? Let's find out.

Dislikes: Louis IX was rude. You don't make it so that you are the only one who can wear a certain gemstone.

Likes: Many of the items were fascinating. Just check out the cats, snakes, and owl sections.

I'm glad that cooler heads prevailed with the hummingbirds.

Conclusion: This was fun. If you are a fan of jewelry or just want to pass on secret messages, then this book is for you. Enjoy the read.
Profile Image for Michaela Whitney.
337 reviews30 followers
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
May 27, 2026
I received a copy through NetGalley for review.

I did really enjoy this, it has a combination of both stones, and symbolism that was popular during the victorian age. It does use a lot of art history examples from over other times, both in art and jewelry for examples. Not everything depicted was of the Victorian Age as examples- so if you are looking for primarily those kinds of pieces to see represented you may be disappointed.

But the descriptions have lovely anecdotes about the representation and meaning at the time, the visual art examples are really beautiful. It's a very pretty book.

There were a few glaring things missing from this book, which kind of irked me. Like Agate, Onyx, Jet and Hair works- which were all very much commonly used during this age, and it just felt a little weird to leave these out.
I saw some other reviews saying she didn't cite her sources, they're all listed at the back of the book in depth for all the works shown and where all the informations was gathered from- its all there.

Profile Image for Erica.
70 reviews
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
June 24, 2026
Thanks to Netgalley and the publisher for providing me with an ebook in exchange for an honest review.
3/5 stars
This one is a little hard to rate. It’s full of beautiful pictures and illustrations, and a lot of the content is very interesting. However, it doesn’t really follow the promise of the title. The focus is not on Victorian jewelry, but on jewelry symbolism from all corners of the world during many, many time periods. The result is a non-specific collection of information that, while interesting, is not exactly what I was hoping for based on the title.
It would be a lovely coffee table book, but it’s not the in-depth exploration I expected and wanted.
Profile Image for Sam.
282 reviews9 followers
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
July 26, 2026
I don't want to read a nonfiction book where I can't trust the facts. The premise was interesting but could use more research.

After finding some dubious facts (Egyptian cats likely had earrings and nose rings added as funeral rights, not while they were alive, as the book implied), getting to the section on crosses to find it claims the ankh was "the first cross," which is just factually incorrect, I stopped reading. (The ankh is a key, not a cross, and is not a cross used as a hieroglyph, its it's own symbol. For a religion that is still practiced today, conflating it with another religion's symbol is disrespectful.)
Profile Image for Christine.
8 reviews2 followers
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
August 11, 2026
While this might look like a simple coffee-table book, it is an excellent read and resource. Azzarito starts with a brief introduction into the Victorian era of jewelry and why amulets were so popular at the time.

Each chapter afterwards focuses on one of these amulets, first listing its meaning and protective power. The chapter then tells a history of each one going back centuries and often including several different cultures.

Woven throughout are beautiful pictures of the jewelry worn by royalty and historical figures. It also includes pictures from historical texts and current-day curators of antique jewelry.

I enjoyed the simple format of this book and am certain I’ll reference it again in the future. It is a great book for those interested in fashion, jewelry, royalty, and history.

I received an advanced reader copy of this book courtesy of NetGalley in exchange for my honest review
Profile Image for Kalina.
10 reviews
September 17, 2026
Secret Language of Victorian Jewelry: The History and Lore of Gems, Charms, and Talismans by Amy Azzarito is an informative book and a treasure trove for people interested in the Victorian period. I admit I didn't know much about Victorian jewelry,beyond the meaning of birthstones. I was attracted to the title because of the obvious reference to the Language of Flowers. In addition to a comprehensive look at the meaning and symbolism of classic Victorian jewelry designs, the book includes detailed photographs and illustrations. I read the ebook version, but I wouldn’t mind buying the physical book if I happen upon it.


Thank you, NetGalley, for the eARC.
627 reviews12 followers
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
May 3, 2026
This is a great book for people who like jewelry, history, and trivia — especially if you’re looking for a coffee table book that’s equal parts art and information. There are lovely pictures, and anecdotes cleanly and neatly laid out. It was so easy to read (and quick), and some of the jewelry pieces were ones I hadn’t seen before.

This isn’t for people looking for something in depth as much as for people who, like me, enjoy pretty pictures. Thank you to Net Galley and the publisher for the ARC.
Profile Image for Ishieta Chopra.
Author 4 books15 followers
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
July 10, 2026
I love jewelry and especially tracing how the designs have changed over the years, and the relationship people have with them has evolved.
Museum exhibits of Jewelry from any era are such a treat!

I enjoyed reading this book as it gave me insight into how people at that time perceived these pieces of jewelry - what they thought the gems an designs meant, the meaning and power they attributed to it - a lovely slice of history and the stories that only jewelry can tell.

Thank you Netgalley for the Arc
Profile Image for Mrn Saldana.
21 reviews
August 25, 2026
A wonderful and fascinating book on jewellery symbolism.
It covers not only the Victorians but also Ancient Greece, Ancient Egypt, and many other periods and cultures, exploring the meanings behind different symbols. It might even inspire my own jewellery choices in the future.
Most of the symbolism discussed has positive meanings, such as happiness, fortune, prosperity, and love.
I was hoping it would also include the Victorian fascination with mourning jewellery and jewellery made from hair, but alas, those weren't mentioned.
Profile Image for Zoe Lipman.
2,161 reviews38 followers
Review of advance copy received from Netgalley
March 6, 2026
4.5/5

This was so cool and interesting to me.

If you like art history, clothing history, or symbolism, this book is for you.

This would make for a really cool and unique coffee table book.

This has wonderful examples: paintings, illustrations, photos and explanations. I really enjoyed looking through them all. This was so well put together.

Thanks to NetGalley for the e-ARC of this book in exchange for my honest review!
Profile Image for Ioana.
600 reviews31 followers
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
April 11, 2026
4.5 stars

This is a great book for any jewelry lover. It features a lot of information and symbolism (not so new to me, but nice nevertheless) and the whole graphics and illustrations are very charming. A bit too much CeeCee jewelry featured here for my tastes (though I do appreciate their pieces).

Overall, this is a lovely book to have and to give and a beautiful introduction to a lot of iconic historical jewels that belonged to this era.
Profile Image for Eris H. LaVey.
21 reviews
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
May 15, 2026
I was pleasantly surprised by this book, Every subject only gets 2 or so pages dedicated to it, but I learnt so many things I would have otherwise never known. I was also glad to see that several cultures were mentioned throughout the book, and to see some history on how Victorians used specific gemstones and motifs in context. Definitely picking up a physical copy for my coffee table when this is published!
Profile Image for Elin.
18 reviews9 followers
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
June 11, 2026
Thank you the publishers and NetGalley for this e-arc for review!

I am a true jewelry and history lover so this book was right up my alley.

I found that reading about the history, anecdotes and symbolism of Victorian jewelry was much more interesting than I originally thought. The pictures and layout of the book was beautifully executed and I would recommend it to anyone that wants a beautiful coffee table book to flip through.
Profile Image for Andrea Wenger.
Author 4 books44 followers
August 26, 2026
This fascinating book reveals the Victorian origins of modern jewelry trends. It explores the secret language of over sixty jewelry symbols, connecting historical significance to contemporary fashion. With its lush illustrations, it would make a beautiful coffee table book and a treasured gift for history or jewelry afficionados.

Thanks, NetGalley, for the ARC I received. This is my honest and voluntary review.
Profile Image for Midnight Book Tea.
16 reviews1 follower
September 20, 2026
I received the advanced reader copy from NetGalley for an honest review.

This book was brilliantly researched, written and illustrated with information on jewelry, components, and gems. As a jewelry maker, I was fascinated with learning the history of jewelry in this era and how we still use some of these uses and meanings today. I would recommend this book to any jewelry lover and history lover.
396 reviews1 follower
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
August 16, 2026
This is a fabulous book for those who are interested in jewelry and/ or history. It is packed to the rim with information and gorgeous authentic photo of jewelry pieces from the past. It will make you notice the hidden meaning of the jewelry worn by the subject of historical portraits. Could not possibly praise this book enough.
18 reviews
Review of advance copy received from NetGalley
May 5, 2026
This is a beautiful book with pictures of real examples of jewelry and art where the "secret language" was used. The book goes into some of the history behind the symbols and gemstones meanings and is an interesting read.
Profile Image for Tina.
253 reviews
September 4, 2026
An absolutely beautiful book and one that you should own. This book brings together so many topics that I have been interested in since I was a youth, and does it in a deeply artistic way. Loved it! Lots of creative inspiration too!
Profile Image for Literary Redhead.
3,003 reviews732 followers
Review of advance copy received from Netgalley
February 10, 2026
A terrific resource with gorgeous photos, art, and illustrations decoding the meaning behind Victorian jewelry. I could gaze at this book at day and never be bored!
Displaying 1 - 30 of 31 reviews