My thanks to Pan Macmillan for a review copy of this book via NetGalley.
Food is about taste, about flavour of course but also about aromas and textures—not just something to savour but an entire experience—it’s not just what one ate but where, in what circumstances and with whom that creates the full experience stored as a memory in our minds (though we little realise the whole). We all have some such in ours, a particular dish tasting a particular way, but something we just can’t quite capture the ‘feel’ of however much we try to recreate it.
In that sense the heartwarming The Kamogawa Food Detectives, originally published as Kamogawashukondo in 2013 by Shogukan and in this translation by Jesse Kirkwood by Pan Macmillan in 2023 is all about time travel, but not in the sense of actually travelling back like one did perhaps in the book I found myself comparing it with Before the Coffee Gets Cold (a recent read for me) but in the sense of a place which is able to recreate those moments, those memories—the smells and flavours but also the experiences which are locked away in memory, and linger on but which one is not able to capture again.
Kamogawa Diner is a small little place in a non-descript building in Kyoto, which few really know about. It seems to have few customers, though there are (like in the Funiculi Funicula café of Before the Coffee) its regulars. It advertises as we learn a ‘detective’ agency, but again though a one-line almost undecipherable advertisement in the Gourmet Monthly magazine, attracting only a few clients that are able to make sense of it and have the tenacity to actually track it down. And that is just how the owners would have it, for they want only a few customers, request them to refrain from reviewing it on the internet, and don’t even have a signboard displayed in front. The café is run by Nagare Komogawa, a retired policeman and his daughter Koishi. Nagare does the ‘detecting’ and much of the cooking (aided by Koishi) but it is Koishi who interviews clients for the detective agency, able to perhaps ask the right questions and break it down for her father to work out (interesting considering he was the policeman).
In this book we have six different stories, each arranged in two chapters, one where the client comes to the diner/agency with their story and case and the second when they return (usually in two weeks’ time as that’s how long it takes to fulfil their request) to sample the dish as we alongside learn how Nagare actually recreated the feeling and experience which the client was actually looking for. The first couple of clients are known to the Komogawas, one Nagare’s former colleague in the police and the other a friend of a regular customer, but others are new. All though have caught on to the advert and followed up from there. Most of their stories are of loss in some form or other—a mother who died when young, a grandfather now suffering dementia, a first proposal which elicited too strong a reaction or an estrangement due to social circumstances. Each are left with the memory of a dish cooked by the lost wife or husband, sampled on a trip with granddad or eaten in a restaurant. As Nagare recreates their dishes we see soon enough that it is naturally about what goes into the dish—not just ingredients but the right ingredients sourced from those very same places, but also the experience itself—how it was eaten, where, even down to the things that one might have been doing at the time. For some clients it returns what was lost, enabling them to relive it and finally move on, but for others it also leads to dispelling some myths or revealing some truths they were unable to see before.
The Kamogawa Food Detectives was a lovely little book, quick, charming and touching, about food certainly but also about life, loss and memories, relationships and in its own sense time travel. On can’t help comparing it with Before the Coffee Gets Cold and it has those similarities (in structure, in moments from the past that people want to relive) but it is also very much its own story.
Like I did in that review, I will also here include what I should start to call the ‘cat report’. This book too as is apparent has the customary cat on the cover. And I am happy to report that there is in fact a cat in it. This one’s called Drowsy and is likely an alley cat who finds his way into the diner even though Nagare disapproves (since cats shouldn’t be where food is being cooked). He nonetheless comes in and receives plenty of love from Koishi and some of the clients as well. But rest assured his presence is mostly decorative (and just by being a purry cat, comforting too), but no more than that, so he fares just fine.
Being a story of food detectives, there is plenty, and I do mean plenty of food, Each first time client to the diner (even if they come in search of the detective agency, they do end up starting by eating a meal) is served only a set meal, and each of these is elaborately described, from the variety of rice and soup to the various dishes—fish, pickled and sautéed veg, tofu and much else, and often ending with fruit, or Mizugashi, which gets distorted in its Western interpretation as dessert (probably no point mentioning that this does make one hungry). I love how in these meals or even the dishes Nagare recreates, one gets a sense of the care that is taken over dishes, each ingredient down to the water used being sourced from specific places to create that special taste or flavour, the reflections of seasons (which change as the stories proceed) in the food and much else. When it comes to the dishes clients have requested, there is this but much more since Nagare cannot recreate the experience without knowing everything of the story behind it, even beyond the sparse details the client often remembers. So the process involves a trip to the place, and ‘proper’ detective work tracing the stories and people involved so as to make the experience as close to what it was.
The stories as, I already mentioned, of most clients involve loss in different ways, mostly death but also others (estrangements, loss of memory, a relationship that never took off at all), and through making that food once again, Nagare is able to help the clients come to terms with things, understand elements of it they weren’t able to at the time, and even dispels misunderstandings for some, such that with the satisfaction of the stomach also comes a sense of relief. The stories do in that sense touch on one’s emotions, yet without going down too deep.
This was my second time reading a work translated by Jesse Kirkwood, and the book read smoothly all through. The one small thing that puzzled me at the start though was Koishi addressing her father’s old colleague by first name (no honorifics) which left me wondering whether this was the case in the original.
This is a quick little read with plenty of warmth which leave one feeling pleasant and comforted even though there is that thread of pathos in the stories themselves. A book that will also likely leave you hungry—especially for Japanese food.
4.25 stars