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In the Rose Garden of the Martyrs: A Memoir of Iran – A Stunning Insider Account of Post-Revolutionary Life and the Hearts and Minds of Tehran
The history of Iran in the late twentieth century is a chronicle of religious fervor and violent change -- from the Islamic Revolution that ousted the Shah in favor of a rigid fundamentalist government to the bloody eight-year war with Saddam Hussein's Iraq. But what happened to the hostage-takers, the suicidal holy warriors, the martyrs, and the mullahs responsible for the now moribund revolution? Is modern Iran a society at peace with itself and the world, or truly a dangerous spoke in the "Axis of Evil"? Christopher de Bellaigue, a Western journalist married to an Iranian woman and a longtime resident of a prosperous suburb of Tehran, offers a stunning insider's view of a culture hitherto hidden from American eyes, and reveals the true hearts and minds of an extraordinary people.
304 pages, Paperback
First published January 4, 2005
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About the author
Christopher de Bellaigue
15 books72 followersChristopher de Bellaigue was born in London in 1971 and has worked as a journalist in the Middle East and South Asia since 1994. His first book, In the Rose Garden of the Martyrs: A Memoir of Iran, was shortlisted for the Royal Society of Literature’s Ondaatje Prize. His latest book is Patriot of Persia: Muhammad Mossadegh and a Tragic Anglo-American Coup. He lives in Tehran with his wife and two children.
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February 4, 2013
My friend Mark suggested this book for our group back in 2006. Mark had travelled through the country during the days of the Shah, smoking hash and driving a VW Bus on his way to Afghanistan. He related how in certain hamlets, firewood was a dollar a night and the hash was free. It was around 2006 that the rumbles about preemptive strikes agsinst Iran first rumbled from Seymour Hersh and others. The book is masterful in detailing the contradictions of a progessive theocracy, the schizoid tensions of the educated classes and the waves of reforms and retractions between the mullahs and the minsiters. This is a fascinating glimpse.
March 8, 2024
"I cursed the Persians. Two years after i had first met him I still wasn't sure where I stood in relation to mr. Zarif"
Mr. Zarif is an ex-Khomeini thug, ex-volunteer for a Baji militia in 1980-82 and now the kind of peaceful bald man trying to come to terms. He's also one of the most recurring people in De Bellaque's book. So this little outburst on page 264 makes me wonder whether negative reviewers have a point. Even after Iranian studies in England and a sudden Persian wife with a baby on the way around 2000, does Iran wear a veil that he cannot penetrate? Can any outsider, for that matter?
Still, his knowledge of the language and residency in the country make him a valuable interviewer of regime repentants as well as opponents. On the way, there's little vignettes of daily life in Teheran's parks and taxis. With plenty of tea and fruit.
It's the kind of sympathetic English language travellogue about faraway countries I adore. He quotes Marco Polo once to dispel the myth of the Assassins' Paradise Garden. He's a Marco Polo to me.
Mr. Zarif is an ex-Khomeini thug, ex-volunteer for a Baji militia in 1980-82 and now the kind of peaceful bald man trying to come to terms. He's also one of the most recurring people in De Bellaque's book. So this little outburst on page 264 makes me wonder whether negative reviewers have a point. Even after Iranian studies in England and a sudden Persian wife with a baby on the way around 2000, does Iran wear a veil that he cannot penetrate? Can any outsider, for that matter?
Still, his knowledge of the language and residency in the country make him a valuable interviewer of regime repentants as well as opponents. On the way, there's little vignettes of daily life in Teheran's parks and taxis. With plenty of tea and fruit.
It's the kind of sympathetic English language travellogue about faraway countries I adore. He quotes Marco Polo once to dispel the myth of the Assassins' Paradise Garden. He's a Marco Polo to me.
April 2, 2012
This book, set in the Islamic Republic of Iran, should be required reading for anyone hoping to understand the complexities of current events there. Leaping backward and forward in history, the author, de Bellaigue, examines 25 years of revolution, as overshadowed by centuries of political and religious conflict. The fall of the Shah, Khomeini's rise to power, and the shifting alliances after his death resolve into a new kind of monarchy that, in the opinion of de Bellaigue and those he interviews, has betrayed the Revolution. Meanwhile, his images of Tehran - the city and its people - form a dramatic mosaic as richly varied as Dickens' London.
The book's title is a reference to the Iran-Iraq War, when tens of thousands of young, poorly-trained, under-equipped Iranian men gave up their lives in mostly ill-conceived and unrealistic military ventures. In the account of this decade-long bloodletting, de Bellaigue makes clear that the carnage was the result of both blind religious devotion and the utter failure of leadership. Years later, while survivors suffer respiratory failure from Saddam Hussein's use of chemical weapons, the memory of that time and the magnitude of sacrifice sadly and ironically fade. The only significant achievement of the Revolution and war with Western-backed Iraq has been a hard-won independence from foreign powers.
De Bellaigue, an English journalist, casts himself as a stranger in a strange land and rarely regards anyone (there are a few remarkable exceptions) with anything but a skeptical eye. He hopes for an Iran that is true to the democratic ideals that inspired the Revolution, and he makes no secret of his contempt for Western governments that have undermined Iran's sovereignty. But the truth is elusive in this place where reality routinely takes a back seat to appearances. Whether talking to veterans of the War, the daughter of murdered dissidents, the parents of a young "martyr," or an African-American Muslim living in Iran, he illuminates his subject compellingly. I highly recommend this absorbing and well-written book.
The book's title is a reference to the Iran-Iraq War, when tens of thousands of young, poorly-trained, under-equipped Iranian men gave up their lives in mostly ill-conceived and unrealistic military ventures. In the account of this decade-long bloodletting, de Bellaigue makes clear that the carnage was the result of both blind religious devotion and the utter failure of leadership. Years later, while survivors suffer respiratory failure from Saddam Hussein's use of chemical weapons, the memory of that time and the magnitude of sacrifice sadly and ironically fade. The only significant achievement of the Revolution and war with Western-backed Iraq has been a hard-won independence from foreign powers.
De Bellaigue, an English journalist, casts himself as a stranger in a strange land and rarely regards anyone (there are a few remarkable exceptions) with anything but a skeptical eye. He hopes for an Iran that is true to the democratic ideals that inspired the Revolution, and he makes no secret of his contempt for Western governments that have undermined Iran's sovereignty. But the truth is elusive in this place where reality routinely takes a back seat to appearances. Whether talking to veterans of the War, the daughter of murdered dissidents, the parents of a young "martyr," or an African-American Muslim living in Iran, he illuminates his subject compellingly. I highly recommend this absorbing and well-written book.
December 9, 2015
On yıl önce yayımlandığı için biraz güncelliğini yitirmiş olsa da ülke hakkında fikir veren, iyi yazılmış bir kitap.
June 6, 2015
Iran, both as the ancient and modern country, fascinates me. It may be partly because of all the demonising I read from the Western press. But mostly it is because of my interest in the affairs of the Middle East - geo-politics, foreign policy and the seemingly endless wars.
The author of this book, Christopher de Bellaigue, is a British journalist who is married to an Iranian woman. He claims that he is a stranger to this strange land. Sometimes, he even sounds skeptical. But this is the very reason I absorb this book like sponge to water. I believe de Ballaigue does not have an ax to grind when he wrote the book, neither siding the Islamic Republic nor echoing the mantra of the West.
He takes readers through the Islamic Revolution and tge subsequent disenchantment of the population toward it, the decade-long war with Saddam Hussein's Iraq that caused unnecessary loss of lives and Khomeini's rise to power, his death and the consequences of his failure to curb the power of the conservatives.
As described in the book cover, his work is a rich insight into the minds and hearts of an extraordinary people. The Iranians he interviewed varied - from the veterans of the Iran-Iraq War, journalist's family member, a controversial actor and some prominent people from the revolution. Many might find his writing style tedious. He has the tendency of jumping from one subject to the next. The chpaters of the book are few but each has very long pages. I feel tired getting through them. But what he reveals in every chapter are all worth it. I understand the schism between the Shia and Sunni Islam a little better. The author's bemusement about Iranian culture and traditions is another interesting aspect - from their obsession of lifting heavy things, offering food to strangers but expecting them not to accept and mourning a man who dies many centuries ago.
I recommend this book for those who are interested in the modern Iran and politics of the Middles East.
The author of this book, Christopher de Bellaigue, is a British journalist who is married to an Iranian woman. He claims that he is a stranger to this strange land. Sometimes, he even sounds skeptical. But this is the very reason I absorb this book like sponge to water. I believe de Ballaigue does not have an ax to grind when he wrote the book, neither siding the Islamic Republic nor echoing the mantra of the West.
He takes readers through the Islamic Revolution and tge subsequent disenchantment of the population toward it, the decade-long war with Saddam Hussein's Iraq that caused unnecessary loss of lives and Khomeini's rise to power, his death and the consequences of his failure to curb the power of the conservatives.
As described in the book cover, his work is a rich insight into the minds and hearts of an extraordinary people. The Iranians he interviewed varied - from the veterans of the Iran-Iraq War, journalist's family member, a controversial actor and some prominent people from the revolution. Many might find his writing style tedious. He has the tendency of jumping from one subject to the next. The chpaters of the book are few but each has very long pages. I feel tired getting through them. But what he reveals in every chapter are all worth it. I understand the schism between the Shia and Sunni Islam a little better. The author's bemusement about Iranian culture and traditions is another interesting aspect - from their obsession of lifting heavy things, offering food to strangers but expecting them not to accept and mourning a man who dies many centuries ago.
I recommend this book for those who are interested in the modern Iran and politics of the Middles East.
July 28, 2012
This is a great book on Iran if you have been keeping pace with what has been happening there, politically since the Islamic revolution, otherwise certain sections might became a bit of a drag. The author has the singular advantage of being a British man married to an Iranian lady and living in Tehran, giving him pretty unprecedented coverage of the insides of a very proud but wounded country. Proud because of their culture and wounded because despite their tall claims they were routinely overlooked when the new world powers were busy collecting prize lands for themselves, places like India, Sri Lanka, Africa etc.
I was a bit disappointed in that the author chose to present an Iran by interviewing people of substance and not choosing to present the life's and impacts of the ordinary people. Because of this route, every time he presented a new character, a quick historical context had to be established which proved pretty tedious to me as I had little background of the ground politics of Iran.
I was a bit disappointed in that the author chose to present an Iran by interviewing people of substance and not choosing to present the life's and impacts of the ordinary people. Because of this route, every time he presented a new character, a quick historical context had to be established which proved pretty tedious to me as I had little background of the ground politics of Iran.
July 8, 2011
In the Rose Garden of the Martyrs is not an introductory book about modern Iran. Christopher de Bellaigue—British journalist, longtime resident of Tehran, husband to an Iranian woman—plunges into his narrative without much context or signposts. Although he focuses on interviews with veterans of the Islamic Revolution and the Iran-Iraq war, sometimes he discusses traffic conditions, goings-on in politics, parts of novels, and his travels within Iran. Its organizing logic is non-linear, opaque, and sometimes seemingly non-existent. There are very few in-text references despite the 2-page bibliography. However, I found parts of this book enjoyable and shed more light on the mindset in Iran immediately post-Revolution and during the War when I was deeply concentrating on reading.
August 2, 2008
There are a good deal of things I enjoyed about this book. However, there are a few instances that have left me feeling like the author could have gone a little further with the story and then places where I get lost reading a bunch of words that almost make no sense.
I'm hoping the better parts of the book win out. I'm not planning to give up, but if the lesser qualities prevail I'm not so apt to recommend this to others.
I'm hoping the better parts of the book win out. I'm not planning to give up, but if the lesser qualities prevail I'm not so apt to recommend this to others.
December 14, 2020
Christopher de Bellaigue is a British journalist who lives in Tehran (or did at the time he wrote In the Rose Garden of the Martyrs, in the early 2000s) with his Iranian wife and son. He is then, well-positioned to think and write about Iranian culture and society for a western audience, but with an insider's nuance.
What de Bellaigue does best is modern Iran: the traffic; the nuances of buying a car, and why new rarely trumps used; the contradictions. If he had written an entire book on the Iran of today (or 2002, say), the entire work would have been a joy. He writes, as one would expect of an author whose byline has appeared in such stalwarts of the Western press as The Economist and the New Yorker, beautifully, using short, snappy prose to bring emphasis, irony, or humor as needed. That said, a reader can only remember/differentiate so many mullahs, so many generals, so many wounded veterans of the Iran-Iraq war. To say I was bogged down in the politics is an understatement, and quickly I learned to skim passages on the competing ideologies that led to or stemmed from the Revolution.
While Iran's relationship with the world today is largely defined by its standoff with the U.S. (and on which side of that standoff others nations choose to align themselves), de Bellaigue deftly raises the issue of the collective West's long history of meddling in the Middle East (see: Hero), writing, "Two centuries of semi-colonization sometimes seem worse than unambiguous colonization; at least the unambiguously colonized got railways and sewers and unambiguous independence."
The Iran-Iraq war looming as it does over so much and so many in Iran and the larger Middle East, de Bellaigue also plucks at the threads of U.S. involvement, not least the Iran-Contra affair. That U.S. arms - to both sides - increased the firepower and made the bloodletting that much greater is clear, only reinforcing one of the central tenet's from Notes on a Foreign Country: U.S. decisions directly impact the lives of those in other countries on a regular basis, in a way that is difficult for Americans to appreciate. (Although the global experienced with Covid-19 may offer a taste.)
The most telling exchange occurred toward the end of the book, as de Bellaigue is discussing the present and future of Iran with one of the few Iranians he considers a friend, Mr. Zarif. In thinking about the state of the country, Zarif draws a corollary with the state of the Iranian-made Paykan, the butt of more than one joke throughout the book (and country, it seems). Zarif says, "When I get into my Paykan and it lurches and coughs, I think to myself that the men who made it aren't well enough trained or paid, and that they have bad equipment and are badly managed and didn't sleep well last night. ... On the few occasions that I've been in a Mercedes and been astonished by its mechanical perfection, don't you think I've asked myself if the men who built this car are better off?"
Food for thought.
What de Bellaigue does best is modern Iran: the traffic; the nuances of buying a car, and why new rarely trumps used; the contradictions. If he had written an entire book on the Iran of today (or 2002, say), the entire work would have been a joy. He writes, as one would expect of an author whose byline has appeared in such stalwarts of the Western press as The Economist and the New Yorker, beautifully, using short, snappy prose to bring emphasis, irony, or humor as needed. That said, a reader can only remember/differentiate so many mullahs, so many generals, so many wounded veterans of the Iran-Iraq war. To say I was bogged down in the politics is an understatement, and quickly I learned to skim passages on the competing ideologies that led to or stemmed from the Revolution.
While Iran's relationship with the world today is largely defined by its standoff with the U.S. (and on which side of that standoff others nations choose to align themselves), de Bellaigue deftly raises the issue of the collective West's long history of meddling in the Middle East (see: Hero), writing, "Two centuries of semi-colonization sometimes seem worse than unambiguous colonization; at least the unambiguously colonized got railways and sewers and unambiguous independence."
The Iran-Iraq war looming as it does over so much and so many in Iran and the larger Middle East, de Bellaigue also plucks at the threads of U.S. involvement, not least the Iran-Contra affair. That U.S. arms - to both sides - increased the firepower and made the bloodletting that much greater is clear, only reinforcing one of the central tenet's from Notes on a Foreign Country: U.S. decisions directly impact the lives of those in other countries on a regular basis, in a way that is difficult for Americans to appreciate. (Although the global experienced with Covid-19 may offer a taste.)
The most telling exchange occurred toward the end of the book, as de Bellaigue is discussing the present and future of Iran with one of the few Iranians he considers a friend, Mr. Zarif. In thinking about the state of the country, Zarif draws a corollary with the state of the Iranian-made Paykan, the butt of more than one joke throughout the book (and country, it seems). Zarif says, "When I get into my Paykan and it lurches and coughs, I think to myself that the men who made it aren't well enough trained or paid, and that they have bad equipment and are badly managed and didn't sleep well last night. ... On the few occasions that I've been in a Mercedes and been astonished by its mechanical perfection, don't you think I've asked myself if the men who built this car are better off?"
Food for thought.
March 7, 2020
Lots of information (names, dates, places, happenings) woven throughout the book but no comprehensible direction or theme, just a kind of personal narrative (there's no parenthetical documentation, no footnotes) from the mind of a Westerner who lives in Iran with his Iranian wife. The author's knowledgeable, and it's clear that he has a grasp on the history of Iran's political movements, but I felt lost in sorting out the names of significant characters from the Revolution. It's all done in a sort of conversational way but the problem comes up when he goes into chronological events, testimonies, and politics--if it's intended that I, the reader, come away from this book with some kernel of knowledge to hold in my hand, I confess that I'm empty-handed. Nothing is really fleshed out but rather implied. During points in the book I felt like I was to already understand certain implications (because I am well in-the-know about the Middle East, the wars, the hostilities and major political happenings). He'd mention a thing, a grave thing, then quickly move on, jumping ahead to some other point.
To be fair, it's a nice book, and the author does well to write descriptively and illustratively in areas. And I did feel at times as if I were gaining a glimpse into a little-known world (with their ceremonies for lamentation, etc.) through the effect of his writing. It's just that those events wherein people were murdered or imprisoned did not make clear sense to me because those events weren't really laid out & explained by the author in a thorough way. In order for me to really get something out of the book I would need to Google & encyclopedia the names and dates because de Bellaigue doesn't take much time to break it all down historically. But then again, I don't think he intended to make it a history book. It's more like a journalistic read. I just wish I could have learned something tangible. Instead I got a mishmash of corruption and resistance and futility.
I wouldn't recommend this book for the purposes of academia. The subject matter is historical and real but the handling of it is done in a manner that is more casual than scholastic. To learn about Iran I would seek other literature. Also, I think that, though his perspective is uniquely valued (a British scholar interested in India, Iran, the Persian language; a writer) it is limited, in that he is an outsider, neither Iranian nor Muslim. There's no discussion on God in this book. But the actions, those hostilities and tensions are ALL ABOUT GOD. What made them fanatical, and zealous? Iran was, and is, dealing with the modernizing effect on a religion/faith/society...yet the larger questions, such as the purpose of God, the nature & consequence of revelation, and the manner of worship, seem too hefty to explore.
To be fair, it's a nice book, and the author does well to write descriptively and illustratively in areas. And I did feel at times as if I were gaining a glimpse into a little-known world (with their ceremonies for lamentation, etc.) through the effect of his writing. It's just that those events wherein people were murdered or imprisoned did not make clear sense to me because those events weren't really laid out & explained by the author in a thorough way. In order for me to really get something out of the book I would need to Google & encyclopedia the names and dates because de Bellaigue doesn't take much time to break it all down historically. But then again, I don't think he intended to make it a history book. It's more like a journalistic read. I just wish I could have learned something tangible. Instead I got a mishmash of corruption and resistance and futility.
I wouldn't recommend this book for the purposes of academia. The subject matter is historical and real but the handling of it is done in a manner that is more casual than scholastic. To learn about Iran I would seek other literature. Also, I think that, though his perspective is uniquely valued (a British scholar interested in India, Iran, the Persian language; a writer) it is limited, in that he is an outsider, neither Iranian nor Muslim. There's no discussion on God in this book. But the actions, those hostilities and tensions are ALL ABOUT GOD. What made them fanatical, and zealous? Iran was, and is, dealing with the modernizing effect on a religion/faith/society...yet the larger questions, such as the purpose of God, the nature & consequence of revelation, and the manner of worship, seem too hefty to explore.
September 3, 2017
In the Rose Garden of the Martyrs is one of the outstanding books about the contemporary Middle East, written with depth, panache and feeling by a writer at the top of his game.
De Bellaigue served as The Economist correspondent in Tehran during the noughties, a time when Iran's initial reformist era sparkled and faded. The book charts the intricacies of politics in the Islamic Republic, and the complex broader social, economic and cultural changes which Iran has undergone since 1979. The title refers to martyrs of the Iran-Iraq War (1980-88), a time when Iran underwent the convulsions of revolution from within and attack from without. The war was a catastrophe for Iran, leading to the loss of hundreds of thousands of soldiers (known as martyrs in the lexicon of the Islamic Republic). De Bellaigue's book captures the zeal of the early years of the war when millions were motivated by Khomeini's entreaties to defend Islam, the revolution and the Iranian nation from attack. But could that zeal be sustained when the war ended, Khomeini died, and Iran returned to the banalties of peacetime reconstruction? A sense of disillusionment and despair among the veterans who sacrificed so much permeates much of the latter part of the book, which De Bellaigue juxtaposes with the gradual erosion of religious and social mores in Iranian society that the revolutionary generation had expended so much blood to sustain.
The book is also a personal journey of a young Englishman who went to Iran and fell in love with a Persian woman (in the space of a week, says De Bellaigue), which says something about the author's pluck given the popular antipathy towards Perfidious Albion in Iranian culture - and the perception that all English journalists must of course be spies.
De Bellaigue's prose is one of the treasures of the book. Insightful, nuanced, but never pretentious, he brings a perceptive and honest eye to the complexities of Eastern societies (as his subsequent books on Turkey and the Islamic Enlightenment show). And of all Eastern societies, Iran is surely one of the most complex and opaque. There have been many travelogues about Iran, but De Bellaigue's approach as a multi-layered 'memoir' offers a revealing look at one of the world's least understood civilisations. Recommended for any student of the Middle East, and essential reading for anyone even remotely considering going to Iran.
De Bellaigue served as The Economist correspondent in Tehran during the noughties, a time when Iran's initial reformist era sparkled and faded. The book charts the intricacies of politics in the Islamic Republic, and the complex broader social, economic and cultural changes which Iran has undergone since 1979. The title refers to martyrs of the Iran-Iraq War (1980-88), a time when Iran underwent the convulsions of revolution from within and attack from without. The war was a catastrophe for Iran, leading to the loss of hundreds of thousands of soldiers (known as martyrs in the lexicon of the Islamic Republic). De Bellaigue's book captures the zeal of the early years of the war when millions were motivated by Khomeini's entreaties to defend Islam, the revolution and the Iranian nation from attack. But could that zeal be sustained when the war ended, Khomeini died, and Iran returned to the banalties of peacetime reconstruction? A sense of disillusionment and despair among the veterans who sacrificed so much permeates much of the latter part of the book, which De Bellaigue juxtaposes with the gradual erosion of religious and social mores in Iranian society that the revolutionary generation had expended so much blood to sustain.
The book is also a personal journey of a young Englishman who went to Iran and fell in love with a Persian woman (in the space of a week, says De Bellaigue), which says something about the author's pluck given the popular antipathy towards Perfidious Albion in Iranian culture - and the perception that all English journalists must of course be spies.
De Bellaigue's prose is one of the treasures of the book. Insightful, nuanced, but never pretentious, he brings a perceptive and honest eye to the complexities of Eastern societies (as his subsequent books on Turkey and the Islamic Enlightenment show). And of all Eastern societies, Iran is surely one of the most complex and opaque. There have been many travelogues about Iran, but De Bellaigue's approach as a multi-layered 'memoir' offers a revealing look at one of the world's least understood civilisations. Recommended for any student of the Middle East, and essential reading for anyone even remotely considering going to Iran.
April 10, 2022
This book is thought-provoking, but I found it somewhat scattered. The book opens and closes with descriptions of scenes from an Iranian festival celebrating the martyrdom of the Imam Hossein, hero of Iran's Shia Islam. Sandwiched in between are snippets of the country's history, snatches of the personal experiences of the author's life as a Westerner in Iran and descriptions of the lives of ordinary Iranians and their experiences of the Revolution, the Iran-Iraq war and life in post-revolution Iran. The theme of martyrdom seeps through all of these encounters and experiences, and we are presented with an assortment of attitudes to the sometimes senseless, sometime noble aspects of martyrdom in Iranian history. The book has moments of thought-provoking brilliance as the author presents us with some of the dilemmas and paradoxes faced by ordinary Iranians. It also has moments where things become disjointed and it is easy to lose the thread. In the end, the idea of martyrdom is not enough to hold together a loosely structured narrative that jumps back and forth in history and alternates historical explanations with the anecdotal stories of a large number of diverse characters.
De Bellaigue never claims to have no personal opinions on the issues he is writing about and in fact he presents his own biases plainly on occasion. This does not prevent him from offering up alternative points of view, however, and these are the moments that become thought-provoking. It is a struggle to give this book a star rating. At some points it deserves 5 and at others 2. The author's masterful command of language rates a 5 throughout. All in all though, I would say it is a worthwhile read.
De Bellaigue never claims to have no personal opinions on the issues he is writing about and in fact he presents his own biases plainly on occasion. This does not prevent him from offering up alternative points of view, however, and these are the moments that become thought-provoking. It is a struggle to give this book a star rating. At some points it deserves 5 and at others 2. The author's masterful command of language rates a 5 throughout. All in all though, I would say it is a worthwhile read.
November 25, 2021
An interesting memoir. While it does tell something of the author’s history and life (what I view as the traditional topic of a memoir), this book is the story of Iran on the early 21st century, told through the stories and lives of its citizens and residents. The subtitle “A Memoir of Iran,” is accurate; just not in the way I expected. The view of Iran is very different from the militant, hostile picture most Americans hold of the country. It is very different than modern-day Iran with its young, dissatisfied and frustrated population. De Bellaigue presents a tranquil lifestyle of a bygone era. He tells individual stories very matter-of-factly but with a descriptiveness that brings the scenes to life. He also presents his subjects’ perspectives without injecting his own opinion most of the time. This is a journalistic work, not an emotional journey, although plenty of emotion comes through in the stories. At the end, the reader may or may not view Iran more favorably, but this reader better understands how individuals such as these contributed to the Iranian Revolution and continue to support it in various ways today.
August 10, 2019
'In the Rose Garden of the Martyrs' started well but soon went downhill. I liked the early chapters about the author's actual real life experience of living in Iran - tales of things seen and heard in the back of a taxi for example - but soon found he relied far too much on just 'telling history' without much in the way of personalisation. The book describes itself as a 'memoir' and I expect that to mean it's the memories and experience of the writer and this is not such a book.
I've been in Iran a couple of times, visited many of the places discussed in the book, but this one just didn't work for me. I had a wry smile at the man who calls him Mr Duplex, and at the author telling a taxi driver he's French (because the locals aren't keen on the Brits) but that wasn't enough to keep me reading. The author is married to an Iranian woman but doesn't tell us anything like enough about how he adapted to life in this very unusual city.
Disappointed.
I've been in Iran a couple of times, visited many of the places discussed in the book, but this one just didn't work for me. I had a wry smile at the man who calls him Mr Duplex, and at the author telling a taxi driver he's French (because the locals aren't keen on the Brits) but that wasn't enough to keep me reading. The author is married to an Iranian woman but doesn't tell us anything like enough about how he adapted to life in this very unusual city.
Disappointed.
September 5, 2020
Modern history of Iran through vignettes
De Bellaigue gives us insight into the ancient and modern history of Iran through interviews with survivors of the Revolution and the Iran-Iraq War and glimpses of the culture and places of Iran. The book contains an overwhelming amount of names, making it hard to follow at times, but it gives a good sense of the people, religion, joys and sorrows, and rich history of Iran. Through it all, the author imparts his love for the people of Iran, as he tries to make sense of the psyche and recent history of the people.
De Bellaigue gives us insight into the ancient and modern history of Iran through interviews with survivors of the Revolution and the Iran-Iraq War and glimpses of the culture and places of Iran. The book contains an overwhelming amount of names, making it hard to follow at times, but it gives a good sense of the people, religion, joys and sorrows, and rich history of Iran. Through it all, the author imparts his love for the people of Iran, as he tries to make sense of the psyche and recent history of the people.
July 23, 2023
Gets a (firm) fourth star from me only due to the subject matter and persistence of the author. Residing in the culture via marriage, de Bellaigue is observant and immersed, but somehow still manages to be a bit haphazard and disorganized in his pursuits. Resulting in a book of many questions, some detail but not enough, and a reluctance to reach many conclusions.
Still worth it, though. Iran needs to be an open book in our era, not an orientalist's mystery-box.
Still worth it, though. Iran needs to be an open book in our era, not an orientalist's mystery-box.
June 14, 2020
Definitely not a spellbinder, but I stuck with it because I know so little about Iran. The author is a journalist who lives in Iran. He told the stories of people that he met and some he knew well in Iran and in their stories he tells some of the history of a very old country.
March 27, 2018
The book is a memoir on Iran up to around 2004. It was difficult at times due to the names of persons and places not being familiar.
February 28, 2020
Not worth the time
This is an insider’s account of life and events in Iran- sometimes interesting, mostly tedious. “Five more words required.” Really?
This is an insider’s account of life and events in Iran- sometimes interesting, mostly tedious. “Five more words required.” Really?
June 11, 2020
Too much to get through.
I really wanted a more straight forward. read . Ok , my comprehension was not up to for this book.
I really wanted a more straight forward. read . Ok , my comprehension was not up to for this book.
March 21, 2021
This book is a good lens with which to view the recent history or Iran. I confess to knowing very little about the history of this country and I got a lot of information from this book. The author provides a very personal view of some of the people who lived through the Revolution and how they are living today.
I especially enjoyed learning about the Houses of Strength and their histories.
There is so much I don't know about this corner of the world. I can certainly understand this quote, "At fifty-two, it bothers me.’ He shook his head. ‘You know, the analogy with the Crusades isn’t such a foolish one. The guys who were doing the fighting then were guys who hadn’t had any contact with Muslims. It’s the same now. The Americans are fighting something that they don’t understand."
I especially enjoyed learning about the Houses of Strength and their histories.
There is so much I don't know about this corner of the world. I can certainly understand this quote, "At fifty-two, it bothers me.’ He shook his head. ‘You know, the analogy with the Crusades isn’t such a foolish one. The guys who were doing the fighting then were guys who hadn’t had any contact with Muslims. It’s the same now. The Americans are fighting something that they don’t understand."
August 11, 2008
I have had a fascination for Iran---I am not sure why. This is an outstanding memoir/history of life in Iran and an investigation into the culture of the Iranian people, from the viewpoint of an outsider with intimate understanding of the people. The author provides a wonderful glimpse into both daily life and customs, as well as insights into events that helped shape the people and country. A Brit, he married an Iranian woman and stayed. The totalitarian oppression experienced under the mullahs seems not too different from that during the days of the Shah and his Savak. I loved his explanation of the choreographed system of social expectations and manners, as well as the feeling of never knowing where one stands with the Iranians. I always wondered the same thing myself, having worked with nearly a dozen Iranians (mostly men, though I did date one Irainian women for a short, very short, period---only time I ever had to have a chaperone). In one case I literally put my job on the line defending one Iranian coworker from a racist comment from an influential patron, and yet I was never really trusted by him. The one I helped the most and knew the best, I thought, turned around and stole thousands of dollars (I was even questioned by FBI agents) before he returned home. I was amazed that none of the men seemed to agree on any point, especially politics and religion. They ran the gamut from rabid pro-Khomeni to fully Westernized secularist. Yet they always seemed open and eager to participate in local events and introduce me to Iranian ways (food as well as culture). They had wondeful senses of humor, and even the most religious of the group could have wicked and perceptive humor. I always believed that Iranians are fascinated by America (while hating our government), that large majorities really would prefer normalization of relations, and that many really just want to enjoy life without clerical oversight. I think the most fascinating chapters revolved around reformers and the brutal, secret oppression (and murders) they suffered. It is amazing how brave many of them can be. I enjoyed his discussion about the crappy cars (those built by Iranians). Some of the best stuff was about the fighting between Iran and Iraq, and the effect it had on many of the participants. I love the hypocrisy of so many Iranians as well, who find ways around restrictions. There are plenty of villans to despise as well.
November 12, 2013
There's not many contemporary books on Iran. So when I saw this book advertised on Amazon, when I was looking for some read-ups before my planned trip to Iran in January, I jumped at the opportunity of getting this one at a discount.
Because of the discount, I didn't expect too much but I was happily proved wrong. This is easily the best book I have read on contemporary Iran.
De Bellaigue, English but married to an Iranian, tries to understand the soul of the revolution and what it has turned into.
He succeeds very well, showing the deterioration and corruption of the original obsession and it fascinates and worries him.
This is one of the books i had planned to read before going to Iran myself, when fate decided otherwise.
The book would have prepared me for one thing and did tell me something else quite interesting. De Bellaigue details Rafsanjani's past , basically explaining why he lost the recent election to Ahmedinejad (the book was written before the elections were on).
Also, he describes meeting the American actor who played a role in the movie "Kandehar" by the Iranian director Mokhmalbaf. I didn't like the movie, its very one- dimensional and has a rather staccato plot, but Hassan Tantai is a very interesting character in the movie. In fact, he's probably the reason why the film stays in your head long after.
The man was an assassin on American soil, who more or less fled, in the 1980s, from America to Iran and now has had an interesting but also very challenging life as a black American turned Muslim, living in Iran.
Because of the discount, I didn't expect too much but I was happily proved wrong. This is easily the best book I have read on contemporary Iran.
De Bellaigue, English but married to an Iranian, tries to understand the soul of the revolution and what it has turned into.
He succeeds very well, showing the deterioration and corruption of the original obsession and it fascinates and worries him.
This is one of the books i had planned to read before going to Iran myself, when fate decided otherwise.
The book would have prepared me for one thing and did tell me something else quite interesting. De Bellaigue details Rafsanjani's past , basically explaining why he lost the recent election to Ahmedinejad (the book was written before the elections were on).
Also, he describes meeting the American actor who played a role in the movie "Kandehar" by the Iranian director Mokhmalbaf. I didn't like the movie, its very one- dimensional and has a rather staccato plot, but Hassan Tantai is a very interesting character in the movie. In fact, he's probably the reason why the film stays in your head long after.
The man was an assassin on American soil, who more or less fled, in the 1980s, from America to Iran and now has had an interesting but also very challenging life as a black American turned Muslim, living in Iran.
July 6, 2012
Not just an author's narrative of several of the failures of the 1978 revolution in 21st century Iran, but also a 'Culture Shock' travelogue by a Westerner who calls Iran home. Like many Iranians themselves, he has a love-hate relationship with this home. This is more of an expat's observation of life in Iran through a general prism of the failed reality of the hysterical optimism of the revolution.
Many reviewers found the book's style irritating to follow, as the narrative seemingly arbitrarily jumps from one interviewee to another, to history to politics to the author's personal life then back to the interviewee back to some original topic. This is just the author's style and is not any serious problem if the book is enjoyed for what it is. There are enough serious, political, structured books on Iran as it is. Sometimes it's even skillfully humorous, such as one chapter where De Bellaigue writes of his bemusement at the Iranians' obsession for lifting heavy things for the sake of lifting heavy things. Then later, long after you've forgotten that topic, he writes of the Shah's welcome at Tehran's airport by being seated in his car and having it lifted across the tarmac on the shoulders of muscular 'thick neck' supporters ('again, more lifting', the author says). Priceless.
Many reviewers found the book's style irritating to follow, as the narrative seemingly arbitrarily jumps from one interviewee to another, to history to politics to the author's personal life then back to the interviewee back to some original topic. This is just the author's style and is not any serious problem if the book is enjoyed for what it is. There are enough serious, political, structured books on Iran as it is. Sometimes it's even skillfully humorous, such as one chapter where De Bellaigue writes of his bemusement at the Iranians' obsession for lifting heavy things for the sake of lifting heavy things. Then later, long after you've forgotten that topic, he writes of the Shah's welcome at Tehran's airport by being seated in his car and having it lifted across the tarmac on the shoulders of muscular 'thick neck' supporters ('again, more lifting', the author says). Priceless.
August 10, 2013
This book is authored by a Westerner living inside Iran giving you an in depth view of the Iranian people. The author is married to an Iranian and lives in the north of Tehran. The book gives you an insiders view of 20th century Iran from just before the 1979 revolution into the 2000's. Interviews with many Iranians that participated in the Iran-Iraq war give you many insights into the culture and the Shiite brand of Islam. A lot of energy goes into mourning a man that died 1200 years ago. Iranian soldiers' willing participation in the Revolution by fervently participating in the Iran-Iraq war and their disillusionment with the Iranian Republic in recent years are explored with interviews of soldiers and Iranian journalist's family members. Some of the veterans are survivors of Iraqi gas attacks. Persian houses of strength and their role in Iranian politics parallel the pre-1970s Unions in the US. This is a good book about the ethos of the Islamic Republic. If you are looking for a history of Iran in the late 20th century the non-linear flow of the events discussed in the book may not be what you are looking for. Check out Twilight War or Persian Puzzle for that. That said, I do recommend this book to people interested in Iran.
November 18, 2007
This book is a political history of Iran. It was pretty interesting, especially the parts about the Ayatollah Khomeni's rise to power (which is one of my earliest political memories).
The book is very interesting and generally easy enough to read, but I must say it is not a page-turner, not one that I couldn't put down. But it wasn't difficult or dry either. Not as poetic as Reza Aslan, and certainly a tad verbose at times. If you are interested in the subject matter, it is a good read.
I must confess, I did not finish the book. About halfway through, I bought "No God but God" and HAD to read that one right away. When I finished, I felt I needed a break from reading about Islam. I do hope/plan to finish this one day, though.
The book is very interesting and generally easy enough to read, but I must say it is not a page-turner, not one that I couldn't put down. But it wasn't difficult or dry either. Not as poetic as Reza Aslan, and certainly a tad verbose at times. If you are interested in the subject matter, it is a good read.
I must confess, I did not finish the book. About halfway through, I bought "No God but God" and HAD to read that one right away. When I finished, I felt I needed a break from reading about Islam. I do hope/plan to finish this one day, though.
May 9, 2009
This book jumped around too much... from one subject to another, from person to person. The author never articulates what he's trying to convey in the book — I had to read the NYT book review (which praised the book) to figure out how all the stories the writer is telling were connected. Some parts of the book read better than others. At its worst, the author's descriptions are ineloquent and confusing. His description, for instance, of the type of sport that goes on in Iranian houses of strength is so muddled that I still can't picture in my head what exactly it is that people do in these houses of strength. I though the book's best parts were those that dealt with the author's personal experiences and thoughts on living as a foreigner in post-Revolutionary Iran. These parts are honest, exposing the biases of society and also the author's own.
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July 28, 2011An interesting and insightful anecdotal history of contemporary Iran from the background to the 79 revolution; the American hostage crisis; the Iran-Iraq war; and the current struggle between Ideologues and pragmatists. The author is an Englishman with a degree from Cambridge in Iranian studies and married to a Persian and living in Iran since the early 90's. He tells the history of those years by describing the experiences of a group of Iranians he knows and discusses the issues and controversies with them.One is reminded of Rebecca West's classic on inter-war Yugoslavia; WHITE LAMB GREY FALCON
October 23, 2009
This memoir reads like a compilation of thorough newspaper articles or short stories, I never quite knew where the book was going next. It contains snapshots of Iranian life, histories of people involved in the Revolution and people who oppose its growing hypocrisy, and the reflections of a foreigner trying to understand and be understood. I found it very enjoyable to read, an absorbing glimpse into the lives of people who are motivated in ways foreign to my experience and a testament to the difficulty of turning a revolution into a stable government worthy of its citizenry.
September 29, 2008
This book is both a recent history of Iran and a collection of stories about the experiences of specific people that live there. It also is part travelogue. The author is a British guy who married an Iranian woman and moved there. I had a lot of trouble digesting the history because it was so complicated, but the other parts of the book added to my impressions of what this place is about and elucidated some of its interesting contradictions.
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