The chef and founder of the Michelin-starred restaurant the Inn at Little Washington gives us an inside look at the tumultuous joys and struggles that have brought him to his special place at the intersection of main, middle, and gay.
World-renowned chef Patrick O’Connell has been recognized as a pioneer of American cuisine; his internationally acclaimed restaurant in the Virginia countryside, the Inn at Little Washington, is Michelin starred and a Relais & Châteaux hotel. Named for the three historic streets in the little town where O’Connell’s life and career have taken root, Main, Middle & Gay chronicles O’Connell’s winding journey through the rough-and-tumble restaurant world.
Growing up gay in the 1950s and working as a paperboy and a cook at a hamburger joint, O’Connell found his place with other misfits in the addictive restaurant scene, where he learned to be nimble and grew up fast while working long hours and late nights with colorful characters. He lived free-spirited on farms with friends and traveled Europe, teaching himself to cook along the way. When he opened his restaurant in an old abandoned garage, he had no idea it would grow to the heights it has achieved today. In his first-ever memoir, O’Connell shows us the colorful evolution that has led the Inn at Little Washington to become a global destination for foodies and travelers alike.
Some of you may know that I’m a huge foodie and utterly fascinated by reading books about chefs, restaurants, and cooking. I also went to culinary school about 25 years ago, so the whole business intrigues me.
All this to say, when I think of the best meals I’ve ever had, Patrick O’Connell’s The Inn at Little Washington is near the top of the list. It’s the most expensive meal I’ve ever eaten but worth every penny. What O’Connell has created in such a small Virginia town is impressive—even more when you realize he never had any formal culinary training.
“Only because I’ve finally arrived at a place where I’m unafraid can buried secrets be exhumed and set free without danger.”
For the chef at the helm of the first U.S. restaurant to receive 3 Michelin stars, O’Connell followed an unusual path. Raised in Maryland, he had a difficult relationship with his father because he was unathletic and effeminate, unlike his brothers. He started working at a restaurant in his teens, and quickly fell in love with the atmosphere as well as the way flavors worked together in the foods he tried.
The book recounts the difficult journey in creating the Inn at Little Washington, as they faced opposition from the town. He touches on the milestones as they created this incredible empire of sorts. And he also touched on the often-rocky relationship with his longtime partner, which nearly destroyed everything they built.
I enjoyed this so much, both because I’ve been to the restaurant and seen interviews with O’Connell before, and because his path was so different than many others. If you’re a foodie, you’ll love reading about the many meals he created—and you’ll probably be hungry, too!
Really enjoyed this. My goodness. The chef's childhood reads like a collection of Stephen King short stories. Which is to say: riveting, strange, and full of small town evil (the delusional abusive nun, the charming pedophile pharmacist, etc). Sets up a terrific, candid story of a life lived in many shadows and spite of long odds. Great stuff here about Virginia hill culture, doomed romance, and different flavours of revenge. A bit self-satisfied toward the end (oh my! Another award?? And Barbara Streisand!) But also....the guy built something so extraordinary that he's earned a big pat on the back.
Having heard Patrick speak at Lisner for the book launch, I know he was nervous about putting this book out for the world and now having read it I can see why. The first 100 pages are dark. Essential to his story, yes. It makes the rest of the book all the more astonishing. Many happy memories for me have occurred at the Inn at Little Washington, and now I know so much more about the history of the chef and the town and the Inn. Chef O’Connell is an unapologetic, exuberant, living legend, and now dang it I want to go back there for another exquisite (expensive) meal. Bravo, Chef!
I had a hard time getting to the part of this story mentioned in the descriptive synopsis. Much of the first few chapters are focused on his understanding and acceptance of his sexuality; much of this involves sexual acts and abuse. Those chapters were extremely difficult for me to read, and I understand they are a foundational part of the author's life, but that didn't make them any easier to get through. Those early chapters made it hard for me to enjoy the rest of the story.
There's a disconnect between the early days and the success. Maybe there's another book that talks about how he learned to cook and where his philosophy on food came from. And sadly, I'm pretty sure this guy belongs to the "I didn't think they meant me" school of embracing his oppressors. Hope someone else saves you from the leopards.
Interesting storytelling from a life well lived! However it never came together for me as a cohesive book. Lots of very short chapters- maybe I should have read it as a series of essays rather than one life.
Really interesting. Dishy, well written. Didn't know how this iconic place was built piece by piece through hardwork and happenstance. And a lot of good taste!