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兩談食性
王亭之
,
姚香雄
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本書為《食性兩談》續篇,作者之一王亭之自序:
王亭之與姚香雄老弟,合寫過兩本《食性兩談》,反應不俗。於是再接再勵,合寫這本《兩談食性》。「食性」也者,並不是孔夫子「食色性也」的「食性」,亦非專談食物之性能,其為於性能之外,兼談食物炮製之道,既談其「食」,復說其「性」,是乃謂為「食性」也耳。
今人重食補,然而却不外是用肉類來燉葯材,這種食法,不如保葯來飲,殊非食補的正道。這本書亦可以說偏重於食補,則絕無保葯之弊,此作者之所以敢引以自豪也。補固不易,食亦難為,談食補豈易事哉。
近年葯材煲肉食之歪風既盛,而阿茂整餅之「新派粵菜」又復藉宣傳而居然成風氣,王亭之心甚厭之。「新派粵菜」一味整色水,大壞正宗廣府菜的優良傳統,因此這本書,亦足以令人知飲食之道貴乎自然,矯扭造作,則既失其性,又失其食,殊不知其可也。
故《兩談食性》云云,實在比《食性兩談》有更多涵義。「兩談」者,除「食性」之外,一者廓清食補的製作,二者點出「新派粵菜」的毛病,其於飲食之道,吾亦謂不無小功小勞也。
Paperback
Published January 1, 1991
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王亭之
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