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Tea and Grit: A Bicycle Journey along the Silk Road
In 2009, while the US Government is hunting down Osama bin Laden in the Middle East, Helen Watson and her husband Ed set off on a cycling expedition from Glasgow to China. Driven by a desire to understand the world beyond the media portrayal of George W. Bush’s ‘Axis of Evil’, the couple pedal 15,000 km along the Silk Road – ancient trade routes that were undergoing rapid modernisation. Crossing deserts and mountains, minefields and military zones, they reach Muslim China via Syria, Turkey, Iran and Central Asia.
Plagued by sandstorms, overzealous officials and endless punctures, Helen and Ed camp with Bedouin, sleep in farmers’ houses, and are hosted by students and local dignitaries. They are waylaid with hundreds of cups of tea and interrogated about Western culture… and marriage. Soon after the couple return home, the Arab Spring breaks, and the world Helen and Ed have visited is plunged into war and unrest. Memories of the hospitality the pair received lead them to welcome refugees to Scotland through the UK’s first community sponsorship scheme – and to Helen writing about their adventure.
Tea and a Bicycle Journey along the Silk Road illuminates places rarely visited by Western travel writers. Through Helen’s evocative prose, visit Homs, the most embattled city of the Syrian War; Raqqa, the former capital of Islamic State; the Kurdish heartland of Eastern Turkey; the Islamic Republic of Iran; the secretive state of Turkmenistan; and Kashgar in Uyghur China. Through Helen’s eyes, gain privileged glimpses into the lives of women in parts of the world characterised by the oppression of female liberties. Join Helen and Ed as they forsake the white noise of everyday British life to focus on real where to sleep, what to eat, how to stay safe.
Rich in insight and compassion, Tea and Grit is a book about the rich and poetic cultures of the Silk Road, which have become imperilled by the aftermath of 9/11. Above all, Tea and Grit is a book about why it is more important than ever before to drink tea with the people we fear as strangers.
Plagued by sandstorms, overzealous officials and endless punctures, Helen and Ed camp with Bedouin, sleep in farmers’ houses, and are hosted by students and local dignitaries. They are waylaid with hundreds of cups of tea and interrogated about Western culture… and marriage. Soon after the couple return home, the Arab Spring breaks, and the world Helen and Ed have visited is plunged into war and unrest. Memories of the hospitality the pair received lead them to welcome refugees to Scotland through the UK’s first community sponsorship scheme – and to Helen writing about their adventure.
Tea and a Bicycle Journey along the Silk Road illuminates places rarely visited by Western travel writers. Through Helen’s evocative prose, visit Homs, the most embattled city of the Syrian War; Raqqa, the former capital of Islamic State; the Kurdish heartland of Eastern Turkey; the Islamic Republic of Iran; the secretive state of Turkmenistan; and Kashgar in Uyghur China. Through Helen’s eyes, gain privileged glimpses into the lives of women in parts of the world characterised by the oppression of female liberties. Join Helen and Ed as they forsake the white noise of everyday British life to focus on real where to sleep, what to eat, how to stay safe.
Rich in insight and compassion, Tea and Grit is a book about the rich and poetic cultures of the Silk Road, which have become imperilled by the aftermath of 9/11. Above all, Tea and Grit is a book about why it is more important than ever before to drink tea with the people we fear as strangers.
334 pages, Paperback
Published January 9, 2026
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Displaying 1 - 2 of 2 reviews
January 9, 2026
I was totally hooked on this impressive book. It’s a perfect blend of real human stories, personal (and at times very amusing!) anecdotes and reflections, and moments of drama and suspense, all balanced by tradition, history, and legend. The writing style feels natural and perfectly suited to a travel book, avoiding unnecessary or overlong historical sections. Vivid descriptions of exotic food and colourful dress bring the journey along the Silk Road to life. Read this if you want to be inspired to slow down and foster human connection in a way we often forget in our increasingly digital lives.
February 15, 2026
This book is wonderfully written and a really informative read. I was with them as they traveled through the various countries! A heartwarming, and sometimes scary, story of humanity
Displaying 1 - 2 of 2 reviews