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In the Beginning there was Bombay Duck - A Food History of Mumbai
‘Just what we needed. The first comprehensive history of dining in Mumbai/Bombay, India’s food capital.’—Vir Sanghvi
From the Kolis, who have been fishing in the city’s waters since much before recorded history, and early settlers such as the Pathare Prabhus, to the people who poured into the developing city in the centuries of British rule and those, like the Sindhis, who found a safe haven here during Partition, this is the first truly comprehensive food history of India’s great metropolis.
The city’s nativists like to champion what they consider ‘original cultures’. But originality resides in the Mumbaikar’s inventive impulse, a quality encapsulated in the nativist’s favourite food, the vada pao: Were it not for the Portuguese, who transported the potato or batata to Bombay, and taught the Goans the art of baking bread, or pao, the vada pao may never have been conceived!
Celebrating this rich diversity of cultures and cuisines, this book covers migrants from the Kanara coast, who gave the city the Udipi restaurant; Parsis, who introduced diners to Persian and Gujarati-inflected dishes, and their Irani brethren, who served this food in their iconic cafes; and the myriad Muslim communities that made the old neighbourhood of Bhendi Bazaar a gastronome’s place of pilgrimage.
Bombay Duck is a rigorously researched, delightfully anecdotal history of food in Bombay/Mumbai that is as colourful and cosmopolitan as the city itself.
From the Kolis, who have been fishing in the city’s waters since much before recorded history, and early settlers such as the Pathare Prabhus, to the people who poured into the developing city in the centuries of British rule and those, like the Sindhis, who found a safe haven here during Partition, this is the first truly comprehensive food history of India’s great metropolis.
The city’s nativists like to champion what they consider ‘original cultures’. But originality resides in the Mumbaikar’s inventive impulse, a quality encapsulated in the nativist’s favourite food, the vada pao: Were it not for the Portuguese, who transported the potato or batata to Bombay, and taught the Goans the art of baking bread, or pao, the vada pao may never have been conceived!
Celebrating this rich diversity of cultures and cuisines, this book covers migrants from the Kanara coast, who gave the city the Udipi restaurant; Parsis, who introduced diners to Persian and Gujarati-inflected dishes, and their Irani brethren, who served this food in their iconic cafes; and the myriad Muslim communities that made the old neighbourhood of Bhendi Bazaar a gastronome’s place of pilgrimage.
Bombay Duck is a rigorously researched, delightfully anecdotal history of food in Bombay/Mumbai that is as colourful and cosmopolitan as the city itself.
360 pages, Paperback
First published November 1, 2025
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Displaying 1 - 6 of 6 reviews
January 31, 2026
A comprehensive food history of Bombay/ Mumbai - across communities , cuisines, restaurants, shops selling speciality foods , etc..thoroughly enjoyable read.. Also nostalgic due to many of the eateries mentioned in the book.
April 25, 2026
The book is a richly layered and meticulously researched history of Mumbai told through its food. More than just a catalogue of dishes, it traces the evolution of the city itself - its neighborhoods, its inhabitants, its migrants, and its ever-shifting identity - through what people cooked, sold, and ate.
What I particularly enjoyed was how the book brings together the stories of diverse communities who made Mumbai their home over successive waves of migration. Parsis, Gujaratis, Muslims, Kolis, Maharashtrians, Jains and many others all leave their imprint on the city’s culinary landscape. The personal histories of iconic dishes - and the restaurateurs and street vendors behind them - turning food into a lived, human story rather than an abstract tradition. I loved the restaurant recommendations and plan to try them on successive trips there.
Also fascinating was the journey of various ingredients. The book gently dismantles the idea of what is “original” or “indigenous,” showing how staples like tomatoes, potatoes, bread, and vinegar - now inseparable from Indian cuisine - were once foreign imports that gradually transformed local food cultures. In doing so, it reveals Mumbai’s cuisine as something fluid, adaptive, and constantly evolving as households and restaurants constantly experimented to taste of it's varied clientele.
You can see how the demands of a growing, working-class city shaped quick, affordable, and ingenious forms of eating such as khanavals and vada pav stalls - food that is as much about survival and convenience as it is about flavor. Alongside this runs a parallel narrative of the city’s expansion, as neighborhoods grow, merge, and reinvent themselves with each new influx of people.
The book is a love letter to the mélange of Mumbai in all it's varied taste and colours. I took my time to read through and savor this delectable and delicious book.
What I particularly enjoyed was how the book brings together the stories of diverse communities who made Mumbai their home over successive waves of migration. Parsis, Gujaratis, Muslims, Kolis, Maharashtrians, Jains and many others all leave their imprint on the city’s culinary landscape. The personal histories of iconic dishes - and the restaurateurs and street vendors behind them - turning food into a lived, human story rather than an abstract tradition. I loved the restaurant recommendations and plan to try them on successive trips there.
Also fascinating was the journey of various ingredients. The book gently dismantles the idea of what is “original” or “indigenous,” showing how staples like tomatoes, potatoes, bread, and vinegar - now inseparable from Indian cuisine - were once foreign imports that gradually transformed local food cultures. In doing so, it reveals Mumbai’s cuisine as something fluid, adaptive, and constantly evolving as households and restaurants constantly experimented to taste of it's varied clientele.
You can see how the demands of a growing, working-class city shaped quick, affordable, and ingenious forms of eating such as khanavals and vada pav stalls - food that is as much about survival and convenience as it is about flavor. Alongside this runs a parallel narrative of the city’s expansion, as neighborhoods grow, merge, and reinvent themselves with each new influx of people.
The book is a love letter to the mélange of Mumbai in all it's varied taste and colours. I took my time to read through and savor this delectable and delicious book.
January 30, 2026
This book is key to understanding the cultural diversity of Mumbai. The book captures the gastronomical haven that Bombay or Mumbai is in a vivid and appetising manner.
It enlists the route by which many of the ingredients that are integral to Indian cooking came into the country.. While reading the book one understands how Portuguese left their indelible mark on Indian cooking, and it’s quite humbling. It is to be borne in mind that 500 to 600 years ago is not a long duration in history. There is an explanation in detail how each of the cuisines came to become a part of the secular culture of Mumbai. The genesis of The Taj is intriguing, so is the fact that its menu was French for a long time.
It has a collection of photos that would warm any foodie. This book is a must read for urban historians, food lovers, and those who understand that food is a unifier. Pronoti Datta has done an excellent job.
May 12, 2026
Loved how the book wove the story of Bombay's food scene from the early days right up to the present, beautifully intertwining aspects of culture and politics. Quite well researched and wonderfully organised, I enjoyed reading and reminiscing my own childhood growing up in the city amongst good food.
May 26, 2026
I was very impressed with the knowledge in this book and as a hardcore Mumbaikar and foodie, every chapter was interesting to read, with small tidbits and history of all the eateries I've been frequenting through life. Enjoyed learning more about my city through the lens of food. Very well researched and entertaining to read.
January 29, 2026
Compellingly captures the contributions of each of the city’s many ethnicities to the vibrant food cultures without pedantry.
Displaying 1 - 6 of 6 reviews