True Style: The History and Principles of Classic Menswear

by G. Bruce Boyer

From choosing the right pair of eyeglasses to properly coordinating a shirt, tie, and pocket square, getting dressed is an art to be mastered. Yet, how many of us just throw on, well, whatever each morning? How many understand the subtleties of selecting the right pair of socks or the most compatible patterns of our various garments—much less the history, imperatives, and importance of our choices?

In True Style, acclaimed fashion expert G. Bruce Boyer provides a crisp, indispensable primer for this daily ritual, cataloguing the essential elements of the male wardrobe and showing how best to employ them. In witty, stylish prose, Boyer breezes through classic items and traditions in menswear, detailing the evolution and best uses of fabrics like denim and linen, accoutrements like neckties and eyeglasses, and principles for combining patterns, colors, and textures. He enlightens readers about acceptable circumstances for donning a turtleneck, declaims the evils of wearing dress shoes without socks, and trumpets the virtues of sprezzatura, the artistry of concealing effort beneath a cloak of nonchalance.

With a gentle yet firm approach to the rules of dressing and an incredible working knowledge of the different items, styles, and principles of menswear, Boyer provides essential wardrobe guidance for the discriminating gentleman, explaining what true style looks like—and why.

Genres: Fashion, Nonfiction, History, Design, Self Help

272 pages, Hardcover

First published September 1, 2015

Reviews

[Jessica Healy · Rating 5 out of 5]

So, sometimes when you work in a bookshop and you're on your way out the door in the morning and you find yourself between books because you finished reading one last night before bed and there's only about thirty seconds before you have to leave to catch the bus and that's not nearly enough time for the weighty task of deciding what to read next, you decide to just wing it, and see what's lying around in the staff room at work. Sometimes you hit the jackpot, and there's an awesome proof of a hot new YA series. Sometimes there are classics with slightly damaged covers. Sometimes, unfortunately, it's kind of slim pickings. Sometimes you find yourself reading The History and Principles of Classic Menswear.

Which, you know, is a perfectly fine book. Especially if you're into that sort of thing. G. Bruce Boyer is, according to the blurb on the back of the book, the 'Robert Caro of the cuff link'. I don't know who that is or what that means, but it's on the blurb so it must be impressive, and one's own ignorance is not reason enough to mock.

But. Look. A book like this subscribes to a view that I just cannot share. The idea that style, or 'taste' is not subjective, that it's objective, monolithic, and not wholly individual. And thus... I mock. Gently. Friendly. And with the full knowledge that I am out of my depth, traversing a world that is not mine. But hear me out.

"It is an unfortunate truth that most men have no idea what to do with their necks." You see why, after such an opening line, I HAD to keep reading. What SHOULD men do with their necks, exactly? Certainly not wear open collars, for fear of assuming the appearance of a turkey. Scarves, is what Boyer recommends. Apparently they come in handy for occasions when a coat and tie are too stuffy, but "slacks and a polo shirt are too scruffy". Really? In what world would you ever meet a man wearing slacks and a polo shirt, and think him "scruffy"? It was about here (which is only page 2) that I thought, maybe Boyer is actually kind of adorable. Scruffy? Slacks? SLACKS! But, you know, I am a child of grunge. Scruffy means something different in my language.

Let's skip ahead. Under the heading BIG MISTAKES, Boyer lists "being too studied" Individuality, he notes, "should be in evidence, quietly.".... Isn't there some sort of irony in reading a list of fashion dos and don'ts in order to express your individuality? Couldn't you just..... wear what you liked?

Chapter Five opens with a piece of advice that particularly irks me, which is that you should buy expensive clothes "not to spend a fortune but to save one". Look, if you can afford to buy the pricey designer stuff, you're not worried about saving money. I've been advised many times, by people and magazines and TV style gurus, that I should invest in expensive clothing because it will save me money. But you know, you can only do that, if you HAVE the money in the first place. When rich people talk about saving money... it bothers me. If you had ever been an unemployed person who had been advised by an employed person that you should spend €40 on a pair of tights that won't tear so easily, when secretly you're wondering how you're going to eat for the rest of the week on the €20 you have left after paying rent and bills, well... steam would be coming from your ears at this kind of nonsense talk too.

But let's move on to safer ground. Eyewear. I enjoyed the potted history of spectacles, and am now considering incorporating ribbon into mine, somehow. I thought it a little strange, however, when Boyer spoke about using them to affect different poses. "You can jauntily take them off, twirl them in your hand, and affect a contemplative look..." Errr... yes? You can? But... do you really need to plan this in advance? I mean, maybe if you were modelling them for a magazine, sure, but... buying a pair of spectacles and thinking about how best you can pose with them is.... well, I'll go with 'odd', though I've typed and deleted lots of other adjectives. "Spectacles shouldn't be any wider than your face" OHRLY??? I will FIGHT YOU for people's right to wear large glasses. LARGE GLASSES WEARERS UNITE! However I am completely on board with the closing of the spectacles chapter, where Boyer paraphrases Dorothy Parker and suggests "Women make passes/ At men who wear glasses." Yes. Yesyesyes.

A charming surprise occurs in the chapter entitled Maintenance. Boyer, be he ever so disdainful of a man's natural, normal, naked neck, is against "overdoing" things when it comes to cleaning your clothes. Long live the "spots, stains, wrinkles, and a bit of dust"! Hear hear!!

"Whatever your shoe wardrobe, buy a nice shoe horn. You wouldn't want to go around with the backs of your shoes broken down..."
Really? Shoe horns are still in use? This was intriguing news to me. Are modern men's shoes not made for mens feet to actually fit into them? Why in the world would anybody need a shoe horn? I mean, aside from as a charming novelty.

Chapter 16 is entitled Maxims, and delivers a fine list which I think is pretty representative of the entire book, and honestly, I probably could have just read this part and been as entertained and baffled as I had been throughout. Some examples:

"Style is the art of bending fashion to personality."
Sure, okay.

"Style and taste are particular sorts of intelligence."
No.

"Active sportswear makes many poeple look less athletic than practically anything they could otherwise wear."
LMAO.

"Uniforms both include and exclude."
Whooooaaahh, duuude. That is, like, soooo trippy.

"It's very difficult for aesthetic judgements to transcend the culture of the judge."
Okay, I was kidding with that last one, but really, we're both stoned now, aren't we? It's good, Boyer. I like it. More of this!

"Clothes are social tools, like language, manners, and a sense of humour."
Well yeah!

"Dressing decently should be a matter of politeness, if nothing else."
Well... no.

"Real style is never a matter of right or wrong. It's a matter of being yourself. On purpose."
ON PURPOSE. XD


The glorious maxim chapter comes about halfway through, and after that it's a little hard to get back into the regular chapters. It's like in school, when someone makes a joke and everyone laughs, and then the teacher tries to bring you back on topic, but there's only ten minutes left and we're all giddy now and anyway it's Friday. That's probably why I didn't really understand what the rules were for mixing patterns. It's okay to do it, except when it's not? Then we move onto pocket squares, and, IDK you guys, I'm kind of texting under the desk now.

But I come back to attention when we start talking about Byron. Because who doesn't love some Lord Byron? Boyer doesn't, as it turns out. At least, he doesn't seem to approve of his filthy, open-collared-shirt wearing habits. There's more about necks. A reminder that Byron, though handsome, was also "degenerate". I'm feeling here that Boyer's dislike for necks is kind of unreasonable.

"Some people are of the opinion that the foot should be considered part of the leg" is a sentence that actually happens, in the midst of a personal reminsicence about this one time Boyer got rid of all his accessories and wore brown shoes with everything, which, though not much more than a description of his wardrobe choices, nevertheless reads with a sort of weighty pathos that makes me imagine a terrible grief behind the words. But then, this chapter is titled "The Shoe-Hosiery-Trouser Nexus", so I think maybe he's just messing with us? Anyway, if you ever meet this guy, make sure you are wearing socks. Otherwise, I have reason to believe he might actually murder you. I've warned you now, and if it happens it is not my responsibility.

Towards the end, the book begins to drag. There's an amusing section on shorts, a long lament for the lost art of manners, and a chapter on fabrics which has much to recommend it, but my enthusiasm for the subject was waning at this point.

But then we get to Turtlenecks. Oh yeah. "Purposeful nonchalance of this sort has its place." Boyer has a thing about nonchalance. It crops up every couple of chapters and seems to be the acme to which the stylish gentleman must aspire. I imagine the drawing room in an English country house, filled with men wearing turtleneck sweaters and large scarves, holding their spectacles jauntily in their hands as they casually lean against the mantel saying things like "Why Jeremy, your brown loafers are divine" and "Oh these old things? I just put them on. I didn't even think about it." and "But it was such a wonderful choice! Brown loafers with blue suit trousers! You're such a card!" and "Really Quentin, you're too much! I deserve no credit. I put no thought into it. I simply found these shoes. They're not even mine. I didn't even intend wearing them. But Aunt Daisy gave me a shoe horn for my birthday, and I just had to try it."

Anway, the history of the turtleneck is actually pretty interesting, bringing a little class anarchy in the otherwise stuffy, bourgeois world of men's fashion. Now the slump is over, Boyer has won me back! Onwards, brave reader, to the final chapter: Weather Gear!.... Which is fine... and then it's over.

I was genuinely disappointed. The last chapter feels like it could have been slotted in anywhere, and the last sentence, (about "urban rubber shoe covers" is just a pragmatic note that they should be "lightweight, skid resistant, and slip off and on easily." That's the last sentence of the book. I felt cheated. I felt like we'd been having this really long, rambling phone conversation, the kind where you don't even realise three hours have passed, and we've laughed, we've argued, we've had a few awkward pauses but we got over them quickly enough, and we're really warming to each other..... and then he just hangs up. Without even saying goodbye!

Which is when I realised that I genuinely enjoyed the writing. And despite the fact that I disagree with most of what he said, I felt rather inclined to like G. Bruce Boyer. I feel like we're friends now.

Anyway, the moral of the story is, sometimes it's good to read outside your comfort zone. Either that, or don't ever bare your neck in public. And whatever you're wearing, you must, at all times, BE NONCHALANT AF.

[Gilfschnitte · Rating 3 out of 5]

It all started with that damned coat. It is a sturdy double-breasted wool coat. I bought it at a theatre costume sale and it is a reliable companion in the winter. But it also started my interest in classic men's fashion.

So I bought this book. It is a valuable treasure trove of historical context for men's fashion which is exactly why I purchased it. I liked the structure, the explanation of the social origins of classic male fashion and the use of fitting vocabulary to talk about these topics. What made my roll my eyes on the other hand are the small but pervasive comments about how superior classic men's fashion is to other kinds of modern men's clothing styles, how the spread of informality among men is despicable.

The elitist aura of the author did not entirely ruin the book, but made me more wary about associating with this topic without second thought. In a twisted way it did elevate the experience because I had to had to use more critical thought while reading

[Jack Dunbar · Rating 3 out of 5]

I gave this book 3/5 because I was expecting more of a discussion on men’s fashion and how to approach menswear with more knowledge: colors, accents, how to style yourself appropriately. But instead this book present more of a history lesson style discussion of style. Where jeans came from, the history of the ascot, pocket square, boots and more. I was actually quite interested in the content despite my disappointment at first. I was enthralled in the rich descriptive prose on how the Bean Boot came to be, how you can distinguish the three styles of jeans, fabrics and ever more. Actually to be completely honest I was very impressed by G. Bruce Boyer’s knowledge of clothes and how in depth he went in detail. Definitely not a boring read. This book is true to the history of classic menswear as given by the title but lacks a bit in the principles a bit. I would recommend this book to men who are curious about how articles of clothing came to be to develops a more intimate relationship with the pieces they wear but might nudge a man looking for information to incorporate more diversity and style into the wardrobe in a different direction.

[Ned Hanlon · Rating 4 out of 5]

Watch out world... I’m going to be super fashionable now!

[Nick · Rating 3 out of 5]

Little blurbs/anecdotes on select topics in men's fashion and history. He has a nice writing style. Acceptably entertaining and obviously knowledgeable. Speaks to everything from shoes to turtlenecks.

Of particular note was his revelation that the traditional flow of sartorial standards has reversed in the modern era: pre-WW1 or so, it was from the top down, but now, coolness stems from general uptake of the utilitarian fashions of military uniforms, sportswear, and workwear.

This of course brings to mind WHAT about upper class fashion is aspirational, given that they've lost their hold on dictating fashions of the masses. In my mind, the obvious answer is now dictating trends in bodies (shape, size, and colour), which only the rich are able to afford (in time and money) to change to any appreciable degree - so maintaining the same aspirational and out-of-reach dynamic they used to hold over fashion. (Also note Kim's alleged removal of her BBL - perhaps another symptom of the upper crust leading the curve on the 'aspirational body';' back to the heroin chique of the 90's.)

[Lenhardt Stevens · Rating 2 out of 5]

Men’s fashion. We’re supposed to be thinking about professional dress these days (just look at how they treated Zelensky!), and here’s a book full of tricks and tips for achieving a fashion sense that outlives today’s trends.

I dislike it. There’s something altogether distasteful about thinking of fashion in these terms. That fashion communicates something about you is, of course, obvious. Yes, if you wear a tracksuit to your finance job interview, your interviewers will be put off. But the moment we start discussing ascots—complete with historical asides to break up the “don’t look like a slob” lecture—I’m reminded that men who think this way about fashion are dandies best ignored. Better to pull on your grass-stained trainers, take out the recycling, and be done with it.

Never again, I say. And if again, let it be for historical curiosity alone. Who cares what you wear? Not I.

[Miguel · Rating 4 out of 5]

It’s great to learn about why people wear what they wear in an often witty and funny manner. A lot of what makes being into clothing as a hobby so enjoyable is feeling connected to the histories behind garments, and this book tells such stories.

I particularly liked his critique on some neo-Ivy style advocates in that their looks are so studied, when the spirit of Ivy was in how thrown together it all was.

Also cool to find out that he didn’t coin the term “sprezzatura,” but rather co-opted the term from the Renaissance writer Baldesar Castiglione. It’s interesting to see sprezzatura described as hiding a hidden inner grace. The idea that if the person put more thought into their appearance, they would be even greater.

Bro does like his flexing his vocabulary. I don’t know how many times he used the word, “insouciance.”

[Rogival Gregory · Rating 3 out of 5]

I learnt intersting elements about style. However I 'm not dandy enough to fully grasp or adhere to the content of this book.

[Philip · Rating 4 out of 5]

I'd consider this book to be a must read for men, for three reasons. Firstly, is Boyer's wit in writing. He's obviously a well-read and cultured guy and his references to familiar figures in literature, cinema and art provide necessary real-life examples to the fashion principles he introduces while adding the necessary depth to provide something of a history of male fashion of the last hundred years. In a book that essentially deals with culture it's such a treat to pause in reading and look up famous photos of celebrities, actors and aristocrats like that of the Duke of Windsor, taken at Horst in 1964, used as an exaggerated example of how a master matches fabric patterns in a well-made suit. Moreover, for those who might get a little bored reading about clothes, his occasional snark at forlorn and passing trends is usually good for an uplifting laugh.

Secondly, is Boyer's scope in writing. Boyer writes about men's fashion in a range that's wide enough to feel comprehensive, and deep enough to feel informative, at least for a layperson. He doesn't go too deeply in the science of how certain fabrics are made, but mentions what they are, their origin and properties, and appropriate climate for wearing them. For example, he'll talk about the history and rising popularity of jeans, but won't delve into an exhaustive study of the different cuts and styles. I think this is important because it gives enough of a taste for a reader to actually gauge how much he really is interested in fashion. Honestly, Boyer's sparknotes description of brands like Armani or Brooks Brothers is enough for me. For a guy who reads this book and truly wants to know more, Boyers provides a helpful reading list at the end of the novel, stuff like "The Cut of HIs Coat: Men, Dress, and Consumer Culture in Britain, 1860-1914", and my profound lack of interest in an apparently interesting work definitely proves to me that I'm not cut-out to be a menswear fashionista.

Thirdly and lastly, I think the most important thing Boyer does here, at least for me, is completely do away with rigid ideas of what menwear is supposed to be. His championing of the "English Country House Look" that dictates it's okay to be a little wrinkled, a little mismatched and faded, and that the charming patina and signs of wear is not something that can be bought off the shelf, was a radical idea to me. Boyer notes that the most important factor one should seek out in clothes is craftsmanship, and that well made clothes when properly maintained, can look better with age. This look is a championship of the modern vintage clothing craze and environmentally friendly movement, and is, at least in my mind, a stand against the ultra-tight, super sleek, fast-fashion present nowadays in menswear. He says the, now obvious to me, truth that vanity isn't fashionable, and that intentionally leaving some things undone or disarrayed produce a better effect than if every aspect of a man's look is perfectly gelled and starched into submission.

Overall, a great book to read for someone to dip their toes into menswear, and I think for 90% of men that's more than enough. For those wishing to know more, I wish them luck on their journey.

Some quotes I enjoyed:
"First, it's critical to remember that shabbiness is preferred to newness. New is vulgar; the mildly tatty is preferable to the new and shiny. Flaunting new labels, or any label for that matter, gives the impression of insecurity. A faded, slightly patinated atmosphere is ideal in achieving a timeless, understated look that bespeaks craftsmanship and the right proportions. The renowned tailoring firms of Savile Row, for instance, still tend to feel that they've failed a customer somehow if he gets complimented for wearing a new suit. Clothes aren't supposed to be worn as though they were objects in themselves; they're the extensions of the individual body and mind. All of which means that missing buttons or frayed cuffs, a few stains and patches are all to the good. Rumpled but expensive is what we're going for here, the crumble-down approach in which nothing is ever really in or out of fashion." (Pg.54)

Advice for glasses
"Whether you want to enhance the natural shape of your face or play against it, the fundamental goal is to find frames that don't call attention to themselves. After all, the main purpose of dress is to make people concentrate on you, rather than on what you're wearing. To achieve this there are certain general rules: The front piece, regardless of shape, should be just short of the eyebrows on top, and just to the top of the cheek on bottom. Spectacles shouldn't be any wider than your face (this should seem obvious, but it's not). The bridge should fit well, certainly tight enough so that the glasses don't keep slipping down to the tip of your nose. These moderate parameters still allow for a number of shapes of aesthetic suitability." (Pg.77)

Advice for fragrance
"It's important to know the strength and type of scent because, in a business environment, a man should smell merely clean and fresh, not like a brothel in Marrakesh. Successful men are aware that the impression of cleanliness, with just a hint of sophistication thrown in for good measure, is all they need to make their presence known. Good fragrance doesn't overpower. So because heat tends to intensify fragrance, it's best to wear the lightest scents in warm weather and save the stronger ones for fall and winter." (Pg. 86)

Advice for maintenance
"As an alternative to having a garment professionally pressed, which is in fact harmful to the fibers of the fabric, try steaming with a home steam cleaner, a boiling tea kettle, or even by simply hanging the clothes in the bathroom when you're taking a shower. Many wrinkles can be easily removed in this way. In general, iron and press clothes as little as possible, since it causes wear, makes the fabric shiny, and breaks the fibers, particularly at the creases. And if you must iron, it's best to not iron directly on woolens or silks. Use a slightly damp and clean cotton or linen cloth (a handkerchief or tea towel will do nicely) between the garment and the iron, always start with low heat-you can always increase heat, but a too-hot iron will cause real and permanent damage very quickly-and bear down gently, as if you were stroking a cat." (Pg.125)

Advice on Sprezzatura and an example of Boyer's good humor
"Castiglione's contribution to the literature of etiquette is the idea that civility cannot really be perfect unless accompanied by a sense of gracefulness (la grazia) and that the perfection of this refinement is achieved and perceived through a sense of style that he defines as sprezzatura. As he writes, "I have discovered a universal rule which seems to apply more than any other in all human actions or words: namely, to steer away from affectation at all costs, as if it were a dangerous reef, and to practice in all things a certain nonchalance [spress.] which conceals all artistry and makes whatever one says or does seem uncontrived and effortless." (Pg.172)
"As the Beau well knew, the amateurs are always trying to look perfect and pressed to the marrow, while the real pros go for the calculated mistake. And instead of the studied attempt at perfection (bound to fail anyway), how much better to appear slightly vague and obfuscating, rather than flaunting that top wattage logo across your chest. Vagueness insures security. ("Where did I buy the shoes? Cobbler fellow made them, some little hovel of a shop in one of those back streets of Budapest, place stunk like a dead water buffalo, absolutely floor-to-ceiling with piles of raw leather.") Showing complete ignorance about the obvious, not knowing one's size, or of what material one's jacket is made is always a good idea. ("They say soldiers at the Somme used this stuff to clean the cannons.") So maddening for others to think you look so well turned out without trying or even knowing anything about it." (Pg.177)

[Arsh Siddiqui · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is pretty good, better than I was expecting. My current perspective on fashion has moved far away from menswear, particularly classic menswear, but this is still an excellent novel. It is more of a discussion of fashion and clothing with certain suggestions and offerings, but it isn’t necessarily a guide on how to dress. (There is no proper guide on how to dress).

I think there are two worlds of menswear, the Gentleman’s Gazette side and the Derek Guy side, I clearly prefer the Derek Guy side, it’s much friendlier and far more fun. I think G. Bruce Boyer’s work is a good bridge between the two, this novel makes that distinction feel more clear to me.

One other note, Boyer is quite funny, like a lot more so than I was expecting out of this novel.

Read it maybe if you’re into fashion?
_________

C’est bon, mieux que ce à quoi je m’attendais. Mes avis actuels sur la mode est vraiment different de les avis de ce romain, mais même avec ça, le livre est bon. C’est beaucoup plus un discours sur la mode et les vêtements, mais ce n’est pas vraiment un guide sur comment bien s’habiller. (Il n’y a pas un guide parfait pour ça).

Je crois que il y a deux mondes du mode masculine classique, le “Gentleman’s Gazette” et le “Derek Guy”, et moi je prefere beaucoup le “Derek Guy”, mais je crois que le travail de G. Bruce Boyer est un pont entre le deux mondes.

Un autre note - Boyer est amusant, beaucoup plus que je m’attandais.

Lisez-le si vous êtes interesse dans la mode ?

[Jordan B Cooper · Rating 4 out of 5]

Boyer's work is informative and entertaining. The only problem with the work is that it could have used many more illustrations.

[Max Nova · Rating 4 out of 5]

Full review and highlights at https://books.max-nova.com/true-style

I've always been a slob when it comes to clothing. I straight up wore sweatpants for all of sophomore year in college (note: this is not the "Ivy Style" that Boyer refers to in the book). The difference between a suit, a tuxedo, and a blazer? Hell if I knew. In "True Style", Boyer politely lets me know that he has had enough of my indifference. With a refined conviviality, he propounds his philosophy of style, offering such advice as "if a man is dressed effectively, confidently, and comfortably, he’ll be judged on other criteria — talent, productivity, merit, skill, loyalty — which is the way it should be." I must admit that I was swept up in his enthusiasm for understanding the historical evolution of clothing styles and I began to appreciate Boyer's sartorial analyses. But he really won me over with the subtly outrageous asides that he peppered throughout his book. My hat is off to you good Sir Boyer - you took a subject that I always considered the purview of stuffy, self-important lightweights and turned it into a fun and fascinating read. My view now aligns more closely with that of Lord Chesterfield:

dress is a foolish thing, and yet it’s a more foolish thing not to pay attention to it

There was also an unexpected connection to one of the best books I've read this year - "Endurance":

The polar explorers Robert Falcon Scott, Ernest Shackleton, and Roald Amundsen all wore windproof and waterproof suits designed and made by Burberry. Even the tents Amundsen took with him were made by the firm.

And here's a little taste of what you're getting into with this book - some of my favorite little quips:

Advertisers have always argued that one of their main functions is to inform and educate; they say this without even smiling, the wolves.

Or his little wink to the literary class:

Sometimes I carry a few old books — hardcover of course, without dust jackets — around with me, anything faintly grubby and esoteric looking, to reinforce the impression that I’m studying something of mind-bending importance.

And my favorite bit of fashionable trollery:

“Haven’t bought clothes in years” is an almost unbeatable ploy, since any reply would seem rather arriviste and petty at the same time.

[James · Rating 4 out of 5]

“History and Principles” of Classic Menswear is right. This is not a “here is how to tie a Windsor knot, bow tie,” or “if you have this body, wear this type of jacket” book. Boyer touches on pieces of menswear in an A to Z way “Ascots, Bow Ties, Pocket Squares, Turtlenecks,” etc. giving you a little history, a little advice (buy the best you can afford, for one) and some cultural and sociological background into our clothes and how classic menswear has evolved.
What I truly like about his writing is that for all the rules and all the emphasis on presenting yourself well, Boyer says that those men who make every piece match perfectly, whose wardrobe is as crisp and clean as a freshly dispensed $100 bill, are insecure, not to be trusted. Above all, he preaches “sprezzatura,” an Italian (of course) idea of imperfection, or elegantly slightly disshelvement. Making it look as though you hardly gave a thought to what you wore today, even if you thought hours about it, or tied that tie many times to get that not quite perfect look.

[Henry · Rating 5 out of 5]

- Like it or not, we all judge by appearance (just like you are unlikely to trust a banker who dress like a drug dealer)

- If your neck is cold, just wear scarf

- Rotate your jackets so they can have break in between wear

- Spot clean is better than laundry - will ensure more longevity of clothes

- Armani revolutionized suits by giving them a more "soft" look. Companies like Brooks Brothers, J Press give American a new "Ivy" look (ironically that such look is now considered "classic" today even though it was hip back in the days)

- More "elevated" style is wearing things without looking trying too hard

[Drew Norwood · Rating 4 out of 5]

I came to this book on a reference to Bruce Boyer in an essay by Alan Cornett. Knowing zero about style, and having not much interest in it before, this was a fun read. Boyer takes you through the different items of menswear and gives a brief history and social commentary for each. I appreciated Boyer's approach to style, as something of a conservative but one who doesn't take himself too seriously, and his wit. He's an individualist who doesn't make the individual the final arbiter, and who honors basic principles and tradition.

[Micah · Rating 5 out of 5]

An enjoyable blend of history, theory, and anecdote. The book's success is largely owed to Boyer's writing, which is much better than one expects. The easy-to-read style leaves you feeling as if you are in the room with Boyer, sharing a cigarette and shooting the sartorial breeze. Highly recommended.

[Toni Marić · Rating 3 out of 5]

Great idea with too much rambling

This book has great history overview on some of the most important pieces of clothing in Men’s style history. Concept of the book is really good and you can learn a lot.

The problem is that author goes into so much rambling that sometimes you need to skip the whole chapter because it has nothing to do with the actual garmant he talks about.

[Frimann Gudmundsson · Rating 4 out of 5]

A very fascinating read, where Mr. Boyer puts various categories of clothing into a historical perspective. The parts of the book that stood out to me was where Mr. Boyer shared his personal thoughts on clothing, trends and timeless style.

[Aziz Alkattan · Rating 2 out of 5]

It took me 6 years to get through this book. Part history part how-to guide, the book seems to do neither well. A few good maxims and style tips puncture otherwise boring and self-serving chapters that seem out of touch with modern wear, and completely loss over street and urban style

[Rob Curry · Rating 5 out of 5]

Boyer’s writing is wise and witty. The book is aimed at the menswear enthusiast who has an interest in the history of menswear and wants a deeper understanding of what some key menswear pieces are and why they’re the chosen keys.

[Terry · Rating 5 out of 5]

An excellent introduction to classical menswear. Great for the novice trying to figure out a Barbour jacket from a trench coat, Saville Row or Italian, and everything in between...including socks!

[James Mastromarino · Rating 4 out of 5]

Evidently stitched together from disconnected essays, Boyer still does an admirable job presenting a coherent history of male fashion--with style tips to boot!

[Rob Masters · Rating 4 out of 5]

If you like men's fashion, this will be a fun book. A quick, easy read.

[Shaun Davidson · Rating 5 out of 5]

Read it as a book of essays; sharp, clever, well-researched, insightful, sarcastic, kind essays. Enjoyed it greatly, laughing and wincing by turns.

[Patrick · Rating 4 out of 5]

Enjoyable and insightful.

[Adrian · Rating 3 out of 5]

Insightful.

[Michał Kłaczyński · Rating 4 out of 5]

Believe it, or not, but I enjoyed its style ;)

[Lt. Columbo · Rating 5 out of 5]

an old man out of touch with the times. but that just so happens to be what i crave in this department

[Adam C · Rating 3 out of 5]

a fun, light read if you like sartorial things

[Christopher Cagle · Rating 5 out of 5]

Good primer—short essays with more information than I was expecting. I like the author’s writing style. Thanks for the gift R. (you know who you are😉).