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The Climb up to Hell
In the heart of the Swiss Alps stand the three majestic peaks of the Bernese Oberland, Europe's most famous mountain range. The highest, at 13,638 feet, is the Jungfrau. Next is the Mönch, at 13,465 feet. But it is the smallest, the Eiger, rising 13,038 feet above sea level, that is by far the deadliest. Called a "living" mountain for its constantly changing conditions-unpredictable weather, disintegrating limestone surfaces, and continuously falling rock and ice-its mile-high north wall is perhaps the most dangerous climb in the world. And that may be just what beckons elite Alpinists to scale the treacherous peak against the odds.
In 1957, nearly forty years before the well-known Mount Everest tragedy, two teams of confident climbers set out to summit the north wall of the Eiger Mountain. Not long into their journey, onlookers could tell that the four men were headed for disaster. Soon rescue teams from all over Europe raced toward the Eiger-yet only one of the four climbers survived to face unfounded international accusations. In a story as fascinating as any novel, Jack Olsen creates a riveting account of daring adventure, heroic rescue, and one of the most baffling mysteries in the history of mountain climbing.
KIRKUS REVIEW
The forbidden, formidable north wall of the Eiger Mountain in the Bernese Alps, while it was first successfully climbed in 1938, has remained a supreme challenge to the most seasoned climber and in 1957 two teams of two Germans and two Italians again made the attempt with devastating results. while Corti, the only survivor, was perhaps talented- all were seemingly uninformed and ill-prepared, certainly for the wind and weather conditions which were to defeat them and make their rescue so difficult. Corti's partner, Longhi, was the first to entertain misgivings and was soon worn out, suffering frostbite as well; the Germans lost their food and were sustained chiefly by an innate, irrational mystique. Rescue crews were quickly organized, but only Corti, who ""looked like a live corpse"", was salvaged; his partner had been left lower down- to die, and the bodies of the other two ropemates were only found months later. In the avalanche of blame, resentment (against the guides as well as Corti) to follow, no true judgement could be reached although Olsen, a Sports Illustrated staff writer, does absolve Corti after a final interview... The folly and the fascination of "vertical Russian roulette", the courage compounded with stupidity, the doubts and recriminations which lingered on long after this disastrous ascent, all intensify the drama of this attempt and revive the furor it occasioned at the time. It will keep its readers on the ropes.
The award-winning author of thirty-three books, Jack Olsen’s books have published in fifteen countries and eleven languages. Olsen's journalism earned the National Headliners Award, Chicago Newspaper Guild's Page One Award, commendations from Columbia and Indiana Universities, the Washington State Governor's Award, the Scripps-Howard Award and other honors. He was listed in Who's Who in America since 1968 and in Who's Who in the World since 1987. The Philadelphia Inquirer described him as "an American treasure."
Olsen was described as "the dean of true crime authors" by the Washington Post and the New York Daily News and "the master of true crime" by the Detroit Free Press and Newsday. Publishers Weekly called him "the best true crime writer around." His studies of crime are required reading in university criminology courses and have been cited in the New York Times Notable Books of the Year. In a page-one review, the Times described his work as "a genuine contribution to criminology and journalism alike.
In 1957, nearly forty years before the well-known Mount Everest tragedy, two teams of confident climbers set out to summit the north wall of the Eiger Mountain. Not long into their journey, onlookers could tell that the four men were headed for disaster. Soon rescue teams from all over Europe raced toward the Eiger-yet only one of the four climbers survived to face unfounded international accusations. In a story as fascinating as any novel, Jack Olsen creates a riveting account of daring adventure, heroic rescue, and one of the most baffling mysteries in the history of mountain climbing.
KIRKUS REVIEW
The forbidden, formidable north wall of the Eiger Mountain in the Bernese Alps, while it was first successfully climbed in 1938, has remained a supreme challenge to the most seasoned climber and in 1957 two teams of two Germans and two Italians again made the attempt with devastating results. while Corti, the only survivor, was perhaps talented- all were seemingly uninformed and ill-prepared, certainly for the wind and weather conditions which were to defeat them and make their rescue so difficult. Corti's partner, Longhi, was the first to entertain misgivings and was soon worn out, suffering frostbite as well; the Germans lost their food and were sustained chiefly by an innate, irrational mystique. Rescue crews were quickly organized, but only Corti, who ""looked like a live corpse"", was salvaged; his partner had been left lower down- to die, and the bodies of the other two ropemates were only found months later. In the avalanche of blame, resentment (against the guides as well as Corti) to follow, no true judgement could be reached although Olsen, a Sports Illustrated staff writer, does absolve Corti after a final interview... The folly and the fascination of "vertical Russian roulette", the courage compounded with stupidity, the doubts and recriminations which lingered on long after this disastrous ascent, all intensify the drama of this attempt and revive the furor it occasioned at the time. It will keep its readers on the ropes.
The award-winning author of thirty-three books, Jack Olsen’s books have published in fifteen countries and eleven languages. Olsen's journalism earned the National Headliners Award, Chicago Newspaper Guild's Page One Award, commendations from Columbia and Indiana Universities, the Washington State Governor's Award, the Scripps-Howard Award and other honors. He was listed in Who's Who in America since 1968 and in Who's Who in the World since 1987. The Philadelphia Inquirer described him as "an American treasure."
Olsen was described as "the dean of true crime authors" by the Washington Post and the New York Daily News and "the master of true crime" by the Detroit Free Press and Newsday. Publishers Weekly called him "the best true crime writer around." His studies of crime are required reading in university criminology courses and have been cited in the New York Times Notable Books of the Year. In a page-one review, the Times described his work as "a genuine contribution to criminology and journalism alike.
197 pages, Kindle Edition
First published January 1, 1962
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 39 reviews
December 17, 2025
I thought this was a very well written adventure/mountain climbing non-fiction. Olsen was a prolific writer of fiction as well. No sensationalism here. Straight forward explanation, descriptions and summary. I’d previously read his “The Night of the Grizzlies”taking place in Glacier National Park and enjoyed that too.
This is not new having been published in 1962. Eiger(the Ogre) is one of the Swiss Bernese Alps and is a notoriously difficult climb for experienced climbers, especially the North Face. Olsen’s book deals with a dramatic attempt/death/rescue on the North Face in 1957. Among difficulties here are changeable severe weather, rotten rock, avalanches, an unforgiving concave wall, etc. First assent happened in 1938. For comparison I found that the most recent deaths here occurred in 2025 (though not climbing accidents—again avalanches).
The 1957 event highlights controversies involving locals, politics, traditional vs. more modern techniques, standards and personalities. I appreciate this older book over a lot of the more recent books on Mt. Everest where you see masses of semi-skilled wealthy people crowding in each other’s spaces, traipsing around bodies of failed hikers and leaving lots of garbage behind.
Olsen points out criticisms leveled after the 1957 incident but in spite of some doubts about individual climbers most appear to be genuinely responsible and skilled. If you like a good mountain adventure you might like this.
This is not new having been published in 1962. Eiger(the Ogre) is one of the Swiss Bernese Alps and is a notoriously difficult climb for experienced climbers, especially the North Face. Olsen’s book deals with a dramatic attempt/death/rescue on the North Face in 1957. Among difficulties here are changeable severe weather, rotten rock, avalanches, an unforgiving concave wall, etc. First assent happened in 1938. For comparison I found that the most recent deaths here occurred in 2025 (though not climbing accidents—again avalanches).
The 1957 event highlights controversies involving locals, politics, traditional vs. more modern techniques, standards and personalities. I appreciate this older book over a lot of the more recent books on Mt. Everest where you see masses of semi-skilled wealthy people crowding in each other’s spaces, traipsing around bodies of failed hikers and leaving lots of garbage behind.
Olsen points out criticisms leveled after the 1957 incident but in spite of some doubts about individual climbers most appear to be genuinely responsible and skilled. If you like a good mountain adventure you might like this.
August 30, 2010
Do not climb the north wall of the Eiger.
May 25, 2016
This short book by Jack Olsen is a bite-your-nails-and-hold-your-breath kind of book about mountaineering on the north face of Eiger mountain in the Jungfrau Massif in Switzerland. Though not as tall as the Jungfrau or Monch, which it sits beside, it is considered by climbers to be the most difficult climb in the world, since it consists of a vertical mile of concave limestone reaching to a summit of continuously swirling winds and snowstorms/rainstorms, which produce huge avalanches.
The climb takes place in 1957 when two pairs of climbers, one Italian and one German, decide to share a rope up to the top. Everything bad that could possibly happen does happen. Rescue teams are sent from Switzerland, Germany, and rounded up from climbing aficionados around Europe, and a rescue effort follow up. Even though it's nonfiction, I won't spoil the ending by naming the survivors.
The book is masterfully written by Jack Olsen. I would have given it more stars except so many characters insert themselves into the narrative that I could only keep straight about four of them from the hordes involved, and it gave me less of a sense of being there than other mountaineering books I have read. The author writes an epilogue at the end that follows up most of the major characters in the narrative, and since I couldn't keep them all straight during the book, it didn't mean that much to me what each of them did in the subsequent years.
The climb takes place in 1957 when two pairs of climbers, one Italian and one German, decide to share a rope up to the top. Everything bad that could possibly happen does happen. Rescue teams are sent from Switzerland, Germany, and rounded up from climbing aficionados around Europe, and a rescue effort follow up. Even though it's nonfiction, I won't spoil the ending by naming the survivors.
The book is masterfully written by Jack Olsen. I would have given it more stars except so many characters insert themselves into the narrative that I could only keep straight about four of them from the hordes involved, and it gave me less of a sense of being there than other mountaineering books I have read. The author writes an epilogue at the end that follows up most of the major characters in the narrative, and since I couldn't keep them all straight during the book, it didn't mean that much to me what each of them did in the subsequent years.
July 7, 2023
Not planning a family trip to climb the north face of the Eiger anytime soon!
July 16, 2014
In 1957 two teams of climbers, one German, one Italian, attempted to make the thirteenth successful scaling of the North wall of the Eiger. To say that the mountain is challenging, or that anyone who tries to go up the North wall is nuts is quite the understatement. The North wall is a beast; it's claimed 68 lives and is nicknamed the "Murder Wall". Anyone who tries to go up is one crampon short of a mountaineering kit. Even with today's technology it's still rated as formidable.
The Climb Up to Hell tells the story of the ill fated mountaineers and the attempt to rescue them. An attempt improvised by international rescue effort mounted by expert amateur climbers that's hailed as one of the greatest of all time. Humans are mad old things; willing to do anything just to prove we can, but equally willing to go to extraordinary lengths because of a moral imperative.
The Climb Up to Hell ("with 8 pages of dramatic photos!") is a pot-boiler, and a gripping one. If you like old fashioned stories about bravery and selflessness, and a bit of mystery... The Climb to Hell has it all.
It did not endear me to mountains.
The Climb Up to Hell tells the story of the ill fated mountaineers and the attempt to rescue them. An attempt improvised by international rescue effort mounted by expert amateur climbers that's hailed as one of the greatest of all time. Humans are mad old things; willing to do anything just to prove we can, but equally willing to go to extraordinary lengths because of a moral imperative.
The Climb Up to Hell ("with 8 pages of dramatic photos!") is a pot-boiler, and a gripping one. If you like old fashioned stories about bravery and selflessness, and a bit of mystery... The Climb to Hell has it all.
It did not endear me to mountains.
May 17, 2016
Interesting book on the 1957 disaster that hit four climbers on the north face of the Eiger. I read it quickly, I was interested, and I enjoyed it -- but for whatever reason, I could only go with three stars: "liked it."
October 9, 2020
I read a first edition 1962 copy of this book, so I don’t know if it differs in small ways from the newer edition.
I have read many books on mountaineering, but I think this may be the first one I have read that was not written by someone who was at least a casual climber. Most are written by the climbers themselves. Olsen is reporting on the build-up, occurrence and follow-up of a tragedy on the north face of the Eiger, a climb that has a long and foreboding history. His book seems very well-researched to me, and I believe he is mostly fair to the participants and characters presented here. Claudio Corti, the climber who was talented and strong but who didn't think through his climbs, is not a sympathetic character at times, with his seeming cavalier attitude towards the death of climbing partners, and toward the rescuers on the Eiger, but his side of the story and personality are also shown, when it would have been easy to just make him a tragic, unintelligent clown figure all the way through.
I have seen a few negative reviews of this book stating it is boring or written with too many big words or paragraphs, but this was 1961, when people hadn't yet dumbed themselves down with endless TV and repetitious thrillers and still expected to dive into a book full of details and back story, history and explanations. Meanwhile, a positive review listed this as a "page-turner," and I don't quite see that either. It moves along at a somewhat slow pace, because the tragedy and rescue attempts were played out at a slow pace, thanks to the storms that slowed the traffic down on the mountain.
For one example of the details and back story, I enjoyed the insight provided in the story of the Swiss rescue organizations, as it explained why they feuded with each other, and weren't inclined to attempt rescues on the Eiger face, rather than just making them look shallow or uncaring. But I can see why details like that organizational history might not appeal to all readers. This book is not like the dramatic, moment-to-moment books describing mountain tragedies or victories that we see on modern bestseller lists, so adjust your expectations before you take it on.
I have read many books on mountaineering, but I think this may be the first one I have read that was not written by someone who was at least a casual climber. Most are written by the climbers themselves. Olsen is reporting on the build-up, occurrence and follow-up of a tragedy on the north face of the Eiger, a climb that has a long and foreboding history. His book seems very well-researched to me, and I believe he is mostly fair to the participants and characters presented here. Claudio Corti, the climber who was talented and strong but who didn't think through his climbs, is not a sympathetic character at times, with his seeming cavalier attitude towards the death of climbing partners, and toward the rescuers on the Eiger, but his side of the story and personality are also shown, when it would have been easy to just make him a tragic, unintelligent clown figure all the way through.
I have seen a few negative reviews of this book stating it is boring or written with too many big words or paragraphs, but this was 1961, when people hadn't yet dumbed themselves down with endless TV and repetitious thrillers and still expected to dive into a book full of details and back story, history and explanations. Meanwhile, a positive review listed this as a "page-turner," and I don't quite see that either. It moves along at a somewhat slow pace, because the tragedy and rescue attempts were played out at a slow pace, thanks to the storms that slowed the traffic down on the mountain.
For one example of the details and back story, I enjoyed the insight provided in the story of the Swiss rescue organizations, as it explained why they feuded with each other, and weren't inclined to attempt rescues on the Eiger face, rather than just making them look shallow or uncaring. But I can see why details like that organizational history might not appeal to all readers. This book is not like the dramatic, moment-to-moment books describing mountain tragedies or victories that we see on modern bestseller lists, so adjust your expectations before you take it on.
September 9, 2017
Timeless as the mountains
The first time I heard of the eiger, I was watching a movie because I like Clint Eastwood. Then years later, after my first visit to the rocky mountains in colorado, I was telling a friend how amazed I was by the size and rugged beauty of that range. She was not inpressed. When I asked her why, she said "I have seen the Alps. I have seen the Eiger."
So it is with flatlanders, we see photos and read stories and wonder what makes a person throw a few things in a bag to climb a mountain. This story of one climb becomes the story of a rescue, a fascinating system of unionized mountain guides, and a truly horrible piece of rock.
The first time I heard of the eiger, I was watching a movie because I like Clint Eastwood. Then years later, after my first visit to the rocky mountains in colorado, I was telling a friend how amazed I was by the size and rugged beauty of that range. She was not inpressed. When I asked her why, she said "I have seen the Alps. I have seen the Eiger."
So it is with flatlanders, we see photos and read stories and wonder what makes a person throw a few things in a bag to climb a mountain. This story of one climb becomes the story of a rescue, a fascinating system of unionized mountain guides, and a truly horrible piece of rock.
July 5, 2019
A first rate telling of an amazing rescue attempt on the Matterhorn (not the Disneyland ride!). The professional search and rescue teams basically sat out the rescue because they may not get paid to do it! It was teams of volunteers that came together to try to rescue the climbers and some of the amateur rescuers.
The movie “The Eiger Sanction” was based on this major event, or so we’re told.
The movie “The Eiger Sanction” was based on this major event, or so we’re told.
May 28, 2020
A very fine piece of climbing journalism by Jack Olsen.
With consummate skill and investigative flair, Mr. Olsen has reconstituted the final days of one Italian and two German climbers, as well as the miraculous rescue of Claudio Corti.
A riveting read packed with action that’s so good it almost feels like a novel.
With consummate skill and investigative flair, Mr. Olsen has reconstituted the final days of one Italian and two German climbers, as well as the miraculous rescue of Claudio Corti.
A riveting read packed with action that’s so good it almost feels like a novel.
August 14, 2017
Brave men
It is really hard for me to understand the courage and determination of these men and women that climb mountains and rock walls, El Capitan comes to mind. They are a breed apart without a doubt.
It is really hard for me to understand the courage and determination of these men and women that climb mountains and rock walls, El Capitan comes to mind. They are a breed apart without a doubt.
October 9, 2017
Both informative and readable, and does a pretty good job of fairly representing all sides (I think). I would've liked a little more information about the climbers besides Corti... in particular, there is almost nothing about Franz Meyer. Still, very satisfying.
March 26, 2020
Very interesting and in depth description of the ascent and rescue of the mountaineers on the Eiger north wall in 1957. Some parts were much more interesting than others, although it was very well told. May be harder to enjoy and understand if you are not familiar with basic climbing terms.
January 4, 2017
Good adventure.
Well paced. I enjoyed it. I would recommend " Into Thin Air " as a first read. This book is well written. Give it a try.
Well paced. I enjoyed it. I would recommend " Into Thin Air " as a first read. This book is well written. Give it a try.
July 19, 2017
Gripping account of the 1957 climb of the north face of the Eiger.
October 26, 2020
Very nicely written. A good of piece of history of Alpinism, even if this is a tragedy. It covers also the pyschology, and different psychologies of alpinists.
August 29, 2021
Audiobook - excellent!
December 27, 2022
Exceptional recounting of the 1957 tragic climb up the face of the Eiger. Extensively researched. Incredible story!!
April 4, 2023
Great little book about a terrible big mountain.
March 3, 2018
A fascinating account of a climbing disaster. One point I found most interesting is that the mountain is visible from the resort below, and that viewing stations are available for visitors to use to watch climbers and rescue attempts. The author provides valuable insight into the key individuals - who they are, how they interact with others, the underlying tensions and drive that manages both competitiveness and cooperation, and why they are compelled to climb.
June 27, 2016
The author relayed an interesting perspective on the unique world of climbing. With the extreme personalities one encounters in such endeavors, I thought Olsen well illustrated the competitiveness and conflict between those working towards the same goal of reaching the summit. The interaction of ego, skill, ignorance among the mountaineers highlighted those elements potentially making one's bid for the summit successful or not. Including background/history of the individual characters made the story more personal. The summary of what happened to the primary individuals provided a solid story closure.
October 1, 2015
I like reading mountain climbing adventures so I went to the basement and found another that I had read years ago. This book tells the story of a climb up the North Face of the Eiger and that in itself is enough of a story. But this climb turned out to be controversial for another 50 yrs. Olsen's research into the events provides a coherent adventure story. As the reader you sit and wonder why the climbers chose to do the things they did. This is nearly always what you do when you are reading the best true adventures. I would say more but I don't want any spoilers in print.
March 20, 2022
This was an unexpected find in a 2nd hand bookshop.
It is the true story of a climb on the North Face of the Eiger in 1957 that goes wrong, and ends up with a rescue against all the odds.
The personalities of the various climbers and rescuers is well described, along with the dithering of the Swiss mountain guard and the failure of the authorities to act.
Really interesting read and a welcome change from imagined books. Recommend this one
It is the true story of a climb on the North Face of the Eiger in 1957 that goes wrong, and ends up with a rescue against all the odds.
The personalities of the various climbers and rescuers is well described, along with the dithering of the Swiss mountain guard and the failure of the authorities to act.
Really interesting read and a welcome change from imagined books. Recommend this one
January 24, 2017
A different perspective on mountain climbing. Instead of focussing on the climber(s), this book is primarily about the rescue and recovery efforts for a climb gone wrong. Unfortunately, the writing wasn't able to truly reflect the risks, tensions, and frustrations that the rescue team members must have experienced.
August 19, 2009
This was a very interesting book about the 1957 rescue of Claudio Corti from the north wall of Mt. Eiger. The descriptions of the climb and the rescue were very good and I could imagine being there myself.
August 8, 2010
Excellent, fast-reading account of the controversial and disastrous 1957 attempt on the Eiger by two Italian climbers who shouldn't have been there in the first place and two Germans. I've added the Sheidegge Hotel at the base of the Jungfrau Massif to my list of places to visit before I die.
March 6, 2015
One of my best climbing reads yet, and very well written too. I picked up this gem in a second hand bookstore 'like new' for a mere R 28.00, which is about $2.50 dollars. Just goes to show you must always keep your eyes open.
January 6, 2016
This was so good, like really good. 4.5/5 stars if I could. It managed to utterly captivate me without the deaths destroying me, which is why I couldn't give it all five stars--I probably should have been in tears (but I'm selfishly thankful I wasn't). Also, I think I want to climb the Eiger now...
November 7, 2016
This is the true story that inspired the later novel by Trevanian and later movie starring and directed by Clint Eastwood titled "The Eiger Sanction". After reading this true account I think the truth would have made a much better movie. It's quite a story and well-told by Jack Olsen.
May 9, 2008
The N. wall of the Eiger Mountain, in 1957, Bernese Alps
Displaying 1 - 30 of 39 reviews