A captivating fusion of travelogue, fiction, and cultural meditation that journeys deep into the heart of Tibet.
Chen-Fu Hsu's debut novel begins with a young Taiwanese naturalist on an arduous quest for the elusive snow leopard, weaving in excerpts from translated entries from a diary left behind by a fictional Japanese monk, which bears witness to the seismic transformations of Tibet across the decades under Chinese rule.
Following his deeply spiritual connection to Tibet, the protagonist sets off on multiple journeys to the region, describing in brilliant detail the vast beauty of the Tibetan plateau and the wildlife that has existed since time immemorial. However, on his third visit to the region, he is harassed at every turn by the Chinese police who confiscate his belongings, including his books, eventually forcing him to leave for Taiwan. One book overlooked by the Chinese police is the long-lost diary of Udagawa Ekai, a Zen monk who traveled to Lhasa in the postwar years. The diary tells the monk's story up until his death as a recluse, and paints a picture of a Tibet that has a diverse and deeply religious culture that has fought against invaders on multiple fronts.
Hsu laces excerpts from Ekai's diary within his narrative, tracing the changes sparked from the horrors of the Chinese military annexation in the 1950s through the Cultural Revolution and into the contemporary age of forced economic development. Through encounters with the people of Tibet and their stories, What's a Snow Leopard to You? spans the divide between an intimate portrait of a land in flux and a philosophical inquiry into humanity's fraught yet enduring bond with nature. This richly layered work braids history with myth, environmentalism with art, and creates a single story of change in one of the world's most sparsely inhabited regions.
This book is hard to categorize, as the author states in the Acknowledgments, it's part travelogue, part essay, part fact, and part fiction. It apparently grew out of a Master's thesis (wow!). Whatever genre it is, it left me feeling that I too had just returned from a visit to Tibet after reading it. The author, who is in his early-30s now, meaning he was in his twenties when he wrote this book, is a highly skilled writer, and so are the translators.
I learned a lot about Tibetan history - human, religious and natural - and modern Tibetan society from this book, yet it never felt pedantic. The (fictional, I believe) journal of a Japanese monk in Tibet in the 1960s gives a taste of the oppression of the Tibetan people by the Chinese government. The imagery of the Tibetan opera (Ache Lhamo) performer singing for the Chinese propaganda documentary filmmakers was very powerful, as was the Tibetans changing their wall portraits back and forth from Chairman Mao in the daytime (if the Chinese came through) to the Dalai Lama at night, to pray to. I also learned about pika and erosion, sheep herding in the Himalayas, mining exploitation, sacred mountains, Buddhism, Bon (the more ancient religion), and many other topics, including - of course - the elusive snow leopard.
The middle was a bit slow, but I encourage readers to keep going, because I felt that the last third was the strongest writing.
I recommend this book to anyone who enjoys creative non-fiction, travelogues, and geography.
Favorite quotes:
"I thought of the ancient time before Buddhism arrived, when the animistic Bon religion was the belief of the Plateau. Shamans of those days must have known the language of' the earth in order to solve the many issues in people's lives. Later, when the people learned of different knowledge systems that could control everything in Nature, they stopped listening to arcane, incomprehensible instructions. But now, they've started to miss the language of the lakes, rocks, and trees, so geologists have become the new shamans, the listeners of Nature. I don't know which are more proficient, the scientists or the shamans, but they are both retelling what Nature has told them."
"Travel seems to have made up for this emotional lack. You go to live somewhere and let your body reconnect with the land until meaningful and dense layers of images are amassed in a neatly laid-out space on a map. Personally, the grassland before me was decidedly unlike any other grassland in the world and, someday later, when I hear about it at a remove, a subtle but complex emotion will rise up in me. When it dies one day, I will be saddened. Maybe this is what's called a sense of locality, a love of place, in humanist geography."
Thanks to NetGalley, the publisher, and the author for the eARC.
A strange novel. A mixture of cultural exploration, travel, natural history and a diary of a fictional Tibetan monk, with quite a lot of digressions. While the book brings out the difficulties and complexities faced by Tibetans, I am afraid this mix did not work for me.
never let anyone tell you there are no original experiences left bc i started reading this on a whim in the donkey kong ride queue at epic universe and then it put me in a month and a half long reading slump 😀