When I asked a dog trainer friend on Goodreads what is the best book for dog training, she immediately answered the books by Denise Fenzi. This is the 2nd of hers I have read, and it is excellent. It has information I hadn’t read from other training books covering the same topic.
This book is the first in a series of books for Dog Sports Skills. The series is more geared towards competitive obedience and rally work but everyone reading them would learn skills to apply to whatever level of dog training you strive towards.
In the preface she talks about how the series came to be and thoughts on all they wanted to put into a book ultimately deciding, “there was no way to include all of these important topics as a few chapters in a single book.’ Putting one topic, like this one for Developing Engagement & Relationship, in one book helps put the focus on the topic. I also feel splitting what she wants to cover in multiple is a good way for her to make more money, but as she has a good product she is worthy of the rewards.
Other than saying it is a great book on this aspect of dog training, I want to share a few things from the book that were new to me or just excellent points.
The first chapter talks about relationship. It discusses how you build personal and working relationships with your dog.
The second chapter is on attitude including aspects that go into forming confidence, eagerness, and biddability. All good and important information. I liked this next excerpt within the discussion on drive:
‘If you aren’t sure if your dog’s behavior is driven or frantic, ask yourself, “What is the focal point?” If it is easily identified, then you have drive. If you cannot determine what is causing your dog’s motion, you have movement without purpose. A dog in drive exhibits energy with purpose and focus, while frantic behavior does not have a focal point. It’s worth noting that drive has nothing to do with the movements of the dog’s body. When we say a dog is “in drive” we are referring to the dog’s mental state, which is one of focus and intensity. A dog who is quietly staring at a ball, completely focused but with no motion at all, is in drive.’
Chapter three on Stress Reduction Techniques gives great information on developing stress tolerance in your dog. it doesn't come ready to mind to think of stressors like with equipment and locations. There can be a lot to consider when a dog is going to be performing in front of judges. Thoughts on training the dog in a positive and non-stressful way are probably in a lot of books, but don’t remember many that talk about discussing and training on different stressful aspects of showing to the same degree. Here is one bit for example:
‘Make a point of asking people to call commands in a variety of tones and volumes during training. Have others stare at you and your dog while you work. Ask people to walk around as you compete an a-frame to be sure your dog hits the contact zones. Hold your dog in front position while someone pretending to be a judge checks your fronts. You will be surprised at how many dogs find these things uncomfortable at first!’
There is especially a lot of good stuff in chapter four for Training Techniques & Methods. Clicker training and marking are covered in a lot of books but I don’t remember others that went into finer details that would help in competition. Here is an example of a finer point I thought important:
‘Although the marker tells your dog he is doing the right thing, you can give your dog even more specific information when you deliver his primary reinforcer. The general rule (attributed to Bob Bailey and paraphrased by us) is mark for action, feed for position. This is a training double-whammy that should speed up and improve your dop’s learning as well as encourage very precise body placement or movement.
For example, if you are practicing heeling, you should mark the moment of perfect movement in heel position and then feed in the precise spot you want your dog in order to maintain perfect position.’
Other books I have read have talked about the stages of learning and training; Acquisition, generalization (includes proofing), and maintenance. Again I found more insights I don’t remember from other similar books. I also like how she brings up different schools of thought like these on the generalization state:
‘Some trainers work through the acquisition stage completely before moving on to generalization. They think that initial learning should occur in fairly quiet environments. Others let the two stages overlap. They train in a number of different environments right from the start so that generalization and acquisition are not distinctly different processes. This has the advantage of helping the dog to learn how to learn no matter where he is or what he is doing. If you do this, you need to be careful that you don’t “overface” your dog by putting him in situations that are too hard for him and lead to repeated failures.’
I also did not think about have a ‘keep going’ command discussed within maintenance:
'When you first start to ask your dog for continued behaviors and fade out your reinforcers, it can be helpful to give him some sort of feedback that he’s doing the right thing. Many trainers use a keep going signal for this purpose. The keep going signal is typically a word or phrase (such as “gooood”) that is meant to indicate “T like that keep doing it” without ending the behavior the way a marker does.'
Chapter five is on Focus. I like how they start by explaining focus:
‘This may sound like semantics, but the difference is crucial. While there are times you want your dog’s focus to be on you (during heeling, for example), there are also times that it needs to be on the dog’s behavior (such as a go-out) or on an object (like a scent article or a dogwalk). Focus involves not only teaching your dog how to concentrate in spite of distractions, but also how to determine where his focus should be at any given moment. This makes focus training a crucial foundation skill for everything else.’
'Focus is much, much more than the discrete behavior of “watch me at all times;” it requires the dog to concentrate on the appropriate task at the appropriate time.'
Here is a few more quotes from the chapter I found insightful:
‘Some adult dogs get distracted because they are curious about their surroundings. While it is easy to give in to the temptation to allow them to investigate, it is not advisable to continually allow curious dogs to satisfy this curiosity before they can work. This habit has very poor ring carryover since dogs are not allowed to investigate the ring before they must perform there.’
‘With a new puppy, consider the many advantages of working on focus first and specific behaviors and exercises later. You will find your pup much easier to train if you do. If you have an older dog, you can always go back and lay a stronger foundation of focus training. It’s never too late to make positive changes.’’
The last chapter six Is ‘it’s All Tricks.’ it has a bunch of good behaviors or tricks to teach, but I liked the overall rational for a reason to teach them:
‘Tricks benefit the brain as well as the body. ‘Teaching your dog to use various parts of his body will stimulate various parts of the brain, while repeating the same behaviors over and over uses the same parts of the brain repeatedly. It’s like building up only specific muscles in the body while ignoring others; you would be out of balance and not working to your full potential. The same is true for parts of the brain. It’s helpful to use as much of it as possible on a regular basis. The more you do this, the better the brain will work.’
I only need my current dog to be well behaved and come when I call. But maybe next dog I will take to the next level and love having this reference book.