This fine book is part straight history, part travelogue and part oral history. It recounts the author's solo overland journey along the western border of the former Soviet Union from the Baltic Sea to the Black Sea in 1991, shortly after the Soviet Union's collapse. She recounts her travels from Kaliningrad to Odessa through the corridor comprised of East Prussia, Lithuania, western Belarus, Moldova and western Ukraine. Her purpose was to find "evidence that things of beauty had survived war, communism, and Russification; proof that difference and variety can outlast an imposed homogeneity; testimony, in fact, that people can survive any attempt to uproot them."
These borderlands offer no natural obstacles to conquest other than rivers and forests. Over the centuries, part or all of them have been variously controlled or conquered by the Swedes, Tatars, Muscovites, Poles, Lithuanians, Turks, tsarist Russians, Germans, Austro-Hungarians, Nazi Germany and the Soviets, among others. The borderlands have been home to at least five religions: Catholics, Orthodox, Jewish, Moslem and Karaim, and countless ethnic groups, including Estonians, Poles, Galicians, Polesians, Braclavians, Jews, Armenians, Greeks, Hungarians, Tartars, Germans, Russians, Czechs, Turks, and others.
The territory has endured the brutality of World War I, World War II (from both Germans and Russians), the massacre of Jews by the Nazis and others, forced deportations or relocations by the Soviets of millions of Poles, West Ukrainians and Balts to Siberia and Central Asia, and the importation of Russian settlers into the territory to replace those deported or relocated.
The author, who was in her late 20's at the time of this trip, has the advantage of apparent fluency in Polish and Russian, among other languages. Her fluency would have been indispensable in navigating this territory which is not exactly tourist-friendly. She is an intrepid traveler. Transportation is catch-as-catch-can. Although she frequently is able to travel by train, she often must travel with privately hired drivers, many of whom are smugglers. She also rides in taxis, the back of trucks, and on overcrowded buses, and she even resorts to hitchhiking in the Ukraine. Her accommodations range from luxurious but empty hotels to the back seats of cars. On one unforgettable evening in Nowogrodek, she is forced to spend the night in an unspeakably filthy apartment with a grotesquely ill old lady who turns out to be a virulent anti-Semite. (The author is Jewish.)
She finds instances of people who have lived under the control of Poland, Germany and Russia, all the while living in the same place. She finds historical and literary figures who are claimed as their own by multiple countries. One example is the poet Adam Mickiewicz, born in 1798, who is claimed by the Poles, the Belarusians (Mickievic), the Lithuanians (Mickevicius) and the Russians, and who may or may not have been Jewish.
Along the way the author meets many people from all walks of life, including professors, poets, KGB agents, newspapermen, priests, mourners, Jews, ex-Bolsheviks, various slick operators, smugglers, factory managers, prostitutes, and assorted other characters. Many of the people she meets are either secretive about their backgrounds or have no sense of their own histories.
There is a pervasive sense among many of those whom she meets that they will never escape or be able to change their grim surroundings. In one revealing exchange between a teacher and her student, the teacher, Yelena, says to her student, Sveta, "One or two like you can't change the system...." Sveta replies, "I think there is something to do... We can do our best. We can try and study and improve ourselves." Yelena glares at Sveta and says, "You are foolish. What do you think will happen when you try to teach well, try to educate your students? What if you work hard, study things on your own? Your colleagues will become jealous, they will destroy you. They will drive you out of your job. No one is allowed to be better than anyone else. No one is allowed to be better than anyone else. Yes, and that is all.... Our city...is doomed. Our city will sink back into the river under the weight of its own stupidity.... If only we could visit Paris or London...."
The Jews of the borderlands were virtually exterminated by the Nazis and others during World War II. Although the book does not focus overly on these events, she writes movingly about the murder of the Jews in her chapter on Radun in Belarus. She also points out that the purges, famine and collectivization under Stalin in the 1930's, which were responsible for the deaths of 14.5 million Ukrainians and Belarusians, were the equivalent of the Holocaust, although they have never been recognized as such in the outside world.
The author writes with a maturity of someone much older than her years. She has written an excellent and readable account of the history of the Soviet borderlands and her travels within them. I wonder if much would have changed if she were to take the same trip again today. I strongly recommend this book, and I am looking forward to reading her later books, "Gulag: A History," and "Iron Curtain: The Crushing of Eastern Europe 1944-1956."