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Fashion on the Ration: Style in the Second World War
In September 1939, just three weeks after the outbreak of war, Gladys Mason wrote briefly in her diary about events in Europe: 'Hitler watched German siege of Warsaw. City in flames.' And, she continued, 'Had my wedding dress fitted. Lovely.'
For Gladys Mason, and for thousands of women throughout the long years of the war, fashion was not simply a distraction, but a necessity - and one they weren't going to give up easily. In the face of bombings, conscription, rationing and ludicrous bureaucracy, they maintained a sense of elegance and style with determination and often astonishing ingenuity. From the young woman who avoided the dreaded 'forces bloomers' by making knickers from military-issue silk maps, to Vogue's indomitable editor Audrey Withers, who balanced lobbying government on behalf of her readers with driving lorries for the war effort, Julie Summers weaves together stories from ordinary lives and high society to provide a unique picture of life during the Second World War.
As a nation went into uniform and women took on traditional male roles, clothing and beauty began to reflect changing social attitudes. For the first time, fashion was influenced not only by Hollywood and high society but by the demands of industrial production and the pressing need to 'make-do-and-mend'. Beautifully illustrated and full of gorgeous detail, Fashion on the Ration lifts the veil on a fascinating era in British fashion
For Gladys Mason, and for thousands of women throughout the long years of the war, fashion was not simply a distraction, but a necessity - and one they weren't going to give up easily. In the face of bombings, conscription, rationing and ludicrous bureaucracy, they maintained a sense of elegance and style with determination and often astonishing ingenuity. From the young woman who avoided the dreaded 'forces bloomers' by making knickers from military-issue silk maps, to Vogue's indomitable editor Audrey Withers, who balanced lobbying government on behalf of her readers with driving lorries for the war effort, Julie Summers weaves together stories from ordinary lives and high society to provide a unique picture of life during the Second World War.
As a nation went into uniform and women took on traditional male roles, clothing and beauty began to reflect changing social attitudes. For the first time, fashion was influenced not only by Hollywood and high society but by the demands of industrial production and the pressing need to 'make-do-and-mend'. Beautifully illustrated and full of gorgeous detail, Fashion on the Ration lifts the veil on a fascinating era in British fashion
240 pages, Hardcover
First published March 5, 2015
55 people are currently reading
576 people want to read
About the author
Julie Summers
24 books69 followersI was born near Liverpool and grew up first on the Wirral and then in Cheshire. Although the greater part of my childhood was spent outside pursuing any number of outdoor activities, I have always wanted to be a writer.
I am passionate about writing and unembarrassed to be so. I love researching my books, especially when they involve meeting people and finding out about their lives. I have a little study in the attic of our house with one of the best views in Oxford – the dreaming spires seen from Iffley. I write in the mornings after the children have gone to school and find the problem is not sticking to the routine but tearing myself away from writing at the end of the day. I describe myself as a biographer and historian but the most important thing for me is to be a story teller.
I am passionate about writing and unembarrassed to be so. I love researching my books, especially when they involve meeting people and finding out about their lives. I have a little study in the attic of our house with one of the best views in Oxford – the dreaming spires seen from Iffley. I write in the mornings after the children have gone to school and find the problem is not sticking to the routine but tearing myself away from writing at the end of the day. I describe myself as a biographer and historian but the most important thing for me is to be a story teller.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 39 reviews
December 26, 2018
Catchy insight into British fashion industry during war times. Even though it is a non-fiction book devoted to quite specific topic, it was easy to read, because the author tells all the facts as stories. They have conducted a thorough research which is visible in the whole book - e.g. citations from diaries are often presented which makes all the stories personal and relatable and one also learns a lot about home front and life of civilians in general during these hard times.
November 30, 2016
This book accompanied an exhibition at the Imperial War Museum that I intended to go and see but unfortunately never did. The austere simplicity of utility fashion makes it one of my favourite eras of style (along with the mid-18th century and the 1870s because I also love extravagantly wide-skirted silk gowns). It’s a brief, entertaining account of men’s and women’s fashion from 1939 to 1945. Although as social history it lacks rather in depth, there were enough charming anecdotes and new bits of information that I enjoyed it very much. For example, I hadn’t realised the difficulties engendered by rationing corsets and the intense dislike women had for the available substitutes. Not surprisingly, it is difficult to make a decent foundation garment with limited-to-no elastic, rubber, and steel boning. On the other hand, most other utility garments were very successful. Interesting issues discussed include the ways in which clothes rationing narrowed the class divide and the sudden social acceptability of trousers-wearing by British women.
Summers covers both the institutional context of fashion on the ration and some first-hand responses to it. I would have liked a wider range of the latter, however the length of the book somewhat constrains this. Pictures are deployed judiciously in the narrative and definitely enhance it. Memorably, there’s an image of an absolutely exquisite underwear set one woman had made from an RAF pilot’s silk map of Northern Italy. As a fashion history of WWII, ‘Fashion on the Ration’ is well worth a read. It made me regret anew not seeing the exhibition.
Summers covers both the institutional context of fashion on the ration and some first-hand responses to it. I would have liked a wider range of the latter, however the length of the book somewhat constrains this. Pictures are deployed judiciously in the narrative and definitely enhance it. Memorably, there’s an image of an absolutely exquisite underwear set one woman had made from an RAF pilot’s silk map of Northern Italy. As a fashion history of WWII, ‘Fashion on the Ration’ is well worth a read. It made me regret anew not seeing the exhibition.
July 12, 2024
I found this book in my local library and the concept is not one I have delved into.
However, as a lover of fashion - and I do enjoy historical fashion this seemed to tick several boxes.
My issue is the lack of pictures/ photography of the fashion concept discussed. Considering quite a lot of the texts make reference to different fashions - I feel a few more photos and pictures could of helped illustrate the points.
As a historical resource and a jumping off point into fashion in the second world war - focusing mainly on the UK, this was a great read. I learned more about the concepts of Make do and Mend, Mrs Sew and Sew as well as what products went into rationing and what did not.
Overall, this was a great borrow - and it has wetted my appetite for fashion on ration.
However, as a lover of fashion - and I do enjoy historical fashion this seemed to tick several boxes.
My issue is the lack of pictures/ photography of the fashion concept discussed. Considering quite a lot of the texts make reference to different fashions - I feel a few more photos and pictures could of helped illustrate the points.
As a historical resource and a jumping off point into fashion in the second world war - focusing mainly on the UK, this was a great read. I learned more about the concepts of Make do and Mend, Mrs Sew and Sew as well as what products went into rationing and what did not.
Overall, this was a great borrow - and it has wetted my appetite for fashion on ration.
July 31, 2019
A scholarly book, but very enjoyable to read. It is filled with diary entries from women who had to make do and mend.
August 26, 2025
A really interesting read about clothing and fashion during WWII, mostly women's, although men suffered too, they had to put up with shorter socks and turn-ups on trousers were banned.
January 6, 2021
It's amazing how attitudes changed during the war, how the class boundaries slowly evaporated but were still there due to people who had more money having more clothes. However it must have benefitted the poor due to the fact that they would have had the skills to make do and mend and the clothing became better quality for them. Its interesting to hear it from the fashion houses to the housewives on how clothing and attitudes changed.
February 6, 2017
Like all of Summers books, I thoroughly enjoyed reading "Fashion on the Ration" and learning more about the often overlooked history of WWII on the British home front. Summers has a very pleasing writing style, her research is outstanding, and her passion for WWII history shines through. If you're looking for a historical nonfiction that's totally worth your time... look no further.
February 12, 2018
I have never been interested in fashion. But I was fascinated by the story of women who lived through six years of war, having to "make do and mend" to keep themselves and their children not only clothed but looking good. And this during a period when the strictures on women's wear were writ in stone! (When I told my daughter in law about the chapter on corsets, we were laughing, but my husband said, "Why didn't they just quit wearing them?" Men!)
This book is a tribute to the strength of these women. But I wonder about one thing: the author mentions that the American G.I.'s came in with money and a load of nylons. How did they get them, since stockings were rationed in the U.S., too?
I loved this book, because I love the period.
This book is a tribute to the strength of these women. But I wonder about one thing: the author mentions that the American G.I.'s came in with money and a load of nylons. How did they get them, since stockings were rationed in the U.S., too?
I loved this book, because I love the period.
December 9, 2020
This was such an enjoyable read. I love anything about the 1940s and this was no exception. Learning about how women had to be clever and come up with incredible solutions to still look stylish was eye opening.
Furthermore, I enjoyed the tracking of their morale from the early 'make do and mend' to show how clever you can be... through the post war era but still under rationing. There was serious ration fatigue and seems like apathy towards appearance. They had suffered enough. There was no space for creative fashion expression.
A wonderful book with perfect first hand accounts from diaries. So good.
Furthermore, I enjoyed the tracking of their morale from the early 'make do and mend' to show how clever you can be... through the post war era but still under rationing. There was serious ration fatigue and seems like apathy towards appearance. They had suffered enough. There was no space for creative fashion expression.
A wonderful book with perfect first hand accounts from diaries. So good.
May 16, 2017
I would have liked to have seen the exhibition that this book was written to accompany but sadly they never venture out into the sticks. In the spirit of WWII I have 'made do' with the book instead!
I'd recommend it to anyone with an interest in fashion or women's history, it's full of interesting facts and anecdotes. Some of which I've never come across before - for example story of the philanthropist who donated sanitary towels for servicewomen for the duration of the war. I'm embarrassed to say it had never occurred to me to wonder how women managed!
I'd recommend it to anyone with an interest in fashion or women's history, it's full of interesting facts and anecdotes. Some of which I've never come across before - for example story of the philanthropist who donated sanitary towels for servicewomen for the duration of the war. I'm embarrassed to say it had never occurred to me to wonder how women managed!
January 15, 2021
Although it’s quite light in terms of theory and content, this is a very enjoyable social history that brings to life women’s voices in the Second World War through how they tried to dress themselves and their children in a time of austerity.
Ironically, the rise of utility clothing made from good fabrics and made by designers like Norman Hartnell meant that the majority had access to far better clothes than we do in a fast fashion age.
The book ends with how the New Look emerged from austerity, how will we want to dress when Covid restrictions are finally gone?
Ironically, the rise of utility clothing made from good fabrics and made by designers like Norman Hartnell meant that the majority had access to far better clothes than we do in a fast fashion age.
The book ends with how the New Look emerged from austerity, how will we want to dress when Covid restrictions are finally gone?
March 23, 2024
World War Two was a time that has been studied from nearly all angles, and this addition to the body of research is very welcome.
The men and women on the home front were met with a series of challenges- rationing, the practical challenges of life in a time of combat, and how to keep morale up when spirits were low.
This book takes a deep, informative look at what the challenges and successes of clothing for civilians was during World War Two, and I recommend it to both students of that time, and for anyone with a fashion history interest.
The men and women on the home front were met with a series of challenges- rationing, the practical challenges of life in a time of combat, and how to keep morale up when spirits were low.
This book takes a deep, informative look at what the challenges and successes of clothing for civilians was during World War Two, and I recommend it to both students of that time, and for anyone with a fashion history interest.
August 26, 2022
A deep dive into clothes rationing in the UK, and how it affected everything else. I learned a lot. One of the most impressive things is how much compliance there was across society. Another is how the Utility scheme pushed forward the ready to wear market, which has become today's fast fashion (though we've lost the quality element). I had no idea that rationing lasted so long after the war! All around an engaging read.
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April 21, 2025Written in partnership with the Imperial War Museums, this detailed but easy-to-read non-fiction book explores how Britons clothed themselves during the years of austerity and rationing in and after the Second World War.
With reference to primary sources, it covers everyday clothing, high fashion, uniforms, underwear, beauty products and Make-Do and Mend from the perspectives of government policy, fashion designers and retailers, workers, housewives, and ingenious home-sewing practitioners.
With reference to primary sources, it covers everyday clothing, high fashion, uniforms, underwear, beauty products and Make-Do and Mend from the perspectives of government policy, fashion designers and retailers, workers, housewives, and ingenious home-sewing practitioners.
October 22, 2025
This was a fabulous read, and my only dissatisfaction lies in how short it was. I could have easily read twice as much on this topic, especially the rationing and couponing system. It was well organized, well researched, well paced, and made excellent use of photos, illustrations, and especially original letters from a group of recurring women living at the time.
July 27, 2017
An insight into what life what life for the women left behind by war. Fashion may be a frivolous topic but how we look can affect how we feel and women have always striven to look their best. Gave me a real appreciation of the talent and creativity of ordinary women.
October 30, 2017
This was an interesting and enjoyable read. It doesn't just focus on the perceived drabness of wartime clothes and make do and mend. It also touched on the women and men - and how they maintained their spirits while creating styles and looking as good as they could, or dared.
July 18, 2019
Wonderful history book
A reminder about the resourcefulness of people, and especially women. This account brought home to me not just the historical facts of WW2 to the allies but how those facts affected everyday citizens.
A reminder about the resourcefulness of people, and especially women. This account brought home to me not just the historical facts of WW2 to the allies but how those facts affected everyday citizens.
January 24, 2021
A side of history I had not thought about but found excellent and educational.
March 19, 2021
Very interesting. Ordered a copy for my mum who lived through ww2.
March 31, 2021
Excellent book and historical perspective of WWII.
October 3, 2023
Fascinating
This wonderful book gives you a window into the lives of women in WWII. Rationing, fashion, beauty and how to manage all during wartime England.
This wonderful book gives you a window into the lives of women in WWII. Rationing, fashion, beauty and how to manage all during wartime England.
March 21, 2025
I really thought I was going to enjoy this book. I like knowing the information but just the way it was written just wasn't for me.
March 31, 2025
A fun book I purchased at the Imperial War Museum during our trip.
July 26, 2016
A fascinating book. The author has a readable style and trawled through official records, the archives of Vogue, and private diaries to discover how women not only coped with clothes rationing in the Second World War but how they kept their spirits up by giving old clothes a new twist. It is almost impossible now to imagine the strict class divide and the formality of the prewar years. In 1941, in view of the shortage of stockings, the Archbishop of Canterbury announced that women could attend church hatless and stockingless “without impropriety”. Uniforms and “utility clothing” blurred the old class distinctions. For many women from poor families, uniform was the first time they had a set of new clothes rather than hand-me-downs. Some of the most charming anecdotes in the book concern the ingenuity deployed for brides to look special on their wedding day.
March 21, 2016
Who would have thought the challenges of dressing well in wartime could be so interesting? Julie Summers has an easy style and deep research into various topics, especially around WW2 in the U K.
Sourcing material, restrictions on pleats and tucks and the controversy over the banishing of trouser turnips are dealt with: not to mention the dreaded, baggy lisle stockings!
For entertaining and informative Social History go to Julie Summers!
Sourcing material, restrictions on pleats and tucks and the controversy over the banishing of trouser turnips are dealt with: not to mention the dreaded, baggy lisle stockings!
For entertaining and informative Social History go to Julie Summers!
March 28, 2019
Well researched and excellently written, this book is a must read for anyone interested in WWII, British Fashion history or fashion and textiles in general. The details are such that it is easy to picture the women going about their day in mended clothes, re-working anything they can get their hands on-including table clothes and shower curtains-into something not only wearable but presentable as well. All in all, a most excellent book and highly recommended.
January 29, 2025
I really enjoyed reading this. To get a new perspective on the war effort was really refreshing to read about. I've spent a lot of time learning about WWII during school, but looking at the fashion scene during the war was really incredible, and it's a true testament to the women of the home front that they made such incredible strides in fashion with so little to work with.
January 7, 2022
I really enjoyed this book as it gave me a detailed insight into fashion during WW2. The direct quotes from the people who lived in that period were very interesting and the techniques women used to both make and alter clothes during the war were fascinating. The only downside for me was that the book was quite short and I felt that some of the points could have been expanded on.
October 22, 2023
As an aspiring costumer with a particular interest in the 40s and the fashion that made it up I took so much away from such a well researched and beautiful book.
I just loved the quotes and comments from people of the time in letters and such on their experience with fashion and how they were personally effected by it which brought to life what you hear and think about it during the war.
I just loved the quotes and comments from people of the time in letters and such on their experience with fashion and how they were personally effected by it which brought to life what you hear and think about it during the war.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 39 reviews