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384 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 1995
“You might want to take them pants off your head before you go in.”
“I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again. I like it here. I like it more than I can tell you. And then I turned from the gate and got into the car and knew without doubt that I would be back.”
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“If you mention in the pub that you intend to drive from, say, Surrey to Cornwall, a distance that most Americans would happily go to get a taco, your companions will puff their cheeks, look knowingly at each other, and blow out air as if to say, “Well, now, that’s a bit of a tall order,” and then they’ll launch into a lively and protracted discussion of whether it’s better to take the A30 to Stockbridge and then the A303 to Ilchester, or the A361 to Glastonbury via Shepton Mallet. Within minutes the conversation will plunge off into a level of detail that leaves you, as a foreigner, swiveling your head in quiet wonderment.”
“It was like being in the midst of an ugly-building competition. For the better part of a decade architects had been arriving in the area and saying, “You think that’s bad? Wait’ll you see what I can do!”
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I asked the man in the ticket window for a single to Barnstaple. He told me a single was £8.80, but he could do me a return for £4.40.
‘You wouldn’t care to explain the logic of that to me, would you?’ I asked.
‘I would if I could, sir,’ he replied with commendable frankness.
“We sat and delved among our brown bags in the piercing wind, cracking open hard-boiled eggs with numbed fingers, sipping warm pop, eating floppy cheese-and-pickle sandwiches, and staring into an impenetrable murk that we had spent three hours climbing through to get here, and I thought, I seriously thought, God, I love this country.”
“Suddenly, in the space of a moment, I realized what it was that I loved about Britain—which is to say, all of it. Every last bit of it, good and bad—old churches, country lanes, people saying “Mustn’t grumble” and “I’m terribly sorry but,” people apologizing to me when I conk them with a careless elbow, milk in bottles, beans on toast, haymaking in June, seaside piers, Ordnance Survey maps, tea and crumpets, summer showers and foggy winter evenings—every bit of it.”