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Walking the Kiso Road: A Modern-Day Exploration of Old Japan
Step back into old Japan in this fascinating travelogue of the famous Kiso Road, an ancient route used by samurai and warlords, which remains much the same today as it did hundreds of years ago.
Take a trip to old Japan with William Scott Wilson as he travels the ancient Kiso Road, a legendary route that remains much the same today as it was hundreds of years ago. The Kisoji, which runs through the Kiso Valley in the Japanese Alps, has been in use since at least 701 C.E. In the seventeenth century, it was the route that the daimyo (warlords) used for their biennial trips—along with their samurai and porters—to the new capital of Edo (now Tokyo). The natural beauty of the route is renowned—and famously inspired the landscapes of Hiroshige, as well as the work of many other artists and writers. Wilson, esteemed translator of samurai philosophy, has walked the road several times and is a delightful and expert guide to this popular tourist destination; he shares its rich history and lore, literary and artistic significance, cuisine and architecture, as well as his own experiences.
Take a trip to old Japan with William Scott Wilson as he travels the ancient Kiso Road, a legendary route that remains much the same today as it was hundreds of years ago. The Kisoji, which runs through the Kiso Valley in the Japanese Alps, has been in use since at least 701 C.E. In the seventeenth century, it was the route that the daimyo (warlords) used for their biennial trips—along with their samurai and porters—to the new capital of Edo (now Tokyo). The natural beauty of the route is renowned—and famously inspired the landscapes of Hiroshige, as well as the work of many other artists and writers. Wilson, esteemed translator of samurai philosophy, has walked the road several times and is a delightful and expert guide to this popular tourist destination; he shares its rich history and lore, literary and artistic significance, cuisine and architecture, as well as his own experiences.
288 pages, Paperback
First published October 13, 2015
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 45 reviews
September 28, 2022
It's not completely the author's fault -- we can do a little math and make some assumptions, and the guy was at least in his late sixties when he wrote this.
"The guy" is William Scott Wilson, who, at the time this book was written, had already been a Japanese/English translator for forty-five years. Now: If I had been blessed with a dual life, America/Japan, for any length of time, I'm sure I would have quite a warehouse of fun stories to share with my readers. But Mr. Wilson spends much of this book moaning about his blisters because, well, he's an idiot. One does not buy new boots a couple of days before embarking on a weeks-long hike through rainy Japan, if one has a modicum of sense.
Enough. He actually seems like a nice guy, suffering from a terminal case of being boring. Part of the problem is his fondness for laying out long stories about Japanese personages and phenomena of which the average reader will have no knowledge, but without supplying any supplemental information. I dipped at random into a couple of spots in the book:
And who the heck is Heike? Did German women conquer Japan when nobody was looking?
It really is a beautiful chunk of countryside, though, and occasionally he captures the pleasure of a slow hike through civilized but lightly settled parts of the world:
"The guy" is William Scott Wilson, who, at the time this book was written, had already been a Japanese/English translator for forty-five years. Now: If I had been blessed with a dual life, America/Japan, for any length of time, I'm sure I would have quite a warehouse of fun stories to share with my readers. But Mr. Wilson spends much of this book moaning about his blisters because, well, he's an idiot. One does not buy new boots a couple of days before embarking on a weeks-long hike through rainy Japan, if one has a modicum of sense.
Enough. He actually seems like a nice guy, suffering from a terminal case of being boring. Part of the problem is his fondness for laying out long stories about Japanese personages and phenomena of which the average reader will have no knowledge, but without supplying any supplemental information. I dipped at random into a couple of spots in the book:
In this same area is a small spring still issuing pure water called yoshinaka tsuzuri mizu, or "Water for Yoshinaka's Inkstone". Tradition has it that when Yoshinaka rebelled against Heike and was advancing on Kyoto to subdue them (sic), he took water from this spring to write and offering to Mount Ontake in supplication for victory...I could imagine how congested this very spot must have been during the Edo period, as the retinues of daimyo and crowds of commoners waited for those ahead of them to surmount the narrow and steep trail on their way to Narai (p. 63).It is unclear to me who the audience for this sort of material is. All the other Americans that have spent 45 years in Japan? The vast community of English-speaking historians of the Edo et. al. period in Honshu? Page after page of this stuff, full of untranslated vocabulary and references to people and places unknown, dragged on this reader.
* * * *
It was now mid-afternoon, and I walked down the hill, over the Kiso River, and on up to the Itose minshuku, where I was greeted by the two stout o-kama-sans with a "Yaa! Yonnenburi da nee!"...Once again on the Nakasendo, I turned to the right, passed a mizubune full of clear mountain water, and very soon came to the steep stone steps leading up to the Joshohi (p. 146).
And who the heck is Heike? Did German women conquer Japan when nobody was looking?
It really is a beautiful chunk of countryside, though, and occasionally he captures the pleasure of a slow hike through civilized but lightly settled parts of the world:
It is a short walk back into town and into my favorite coffee shop there, the Jyurin. The proprietress greeted me with a "Welcome back!" and showed me to a seat at a wooden table overlooking the river. This is a small establishment, only five tables with seating for twenty at most, and is perfectly situated for whiling away an afternoon. The west wall is mostly a sliding glass window, and just beyond the road across the river, the mountain angles up, allowing only a narrow view of the sky. Today, yellow leaves -- ginkgo, maybe? -- were falling into the clear current and begin swept downstream over the blue-gray rocks beneath. A small black-and-white bird, the sekiri (a kind of wagtail), flitted quickly and nimbly over the rushing water and exposed boulders.Now that's a guy I could hang out with. If he had the proper footwear, of course.
March 12, 2021
What a bizarre book. It does contain a lot of information, but the way in which it’s presented is not very appealing. The narrator/author travels along the Kiso Road, reading guidebooks, meeting his friends, and eating in inns or cafes – but he doesn’t offer much more than lists of his meals, facts from the guidebooks, or names of his friends. And some of the information is not right.
The author is a translator of samurai literature, therefore he should be fluent in Japanese, but… there were so many doubtful moments! 12% into the book, I saw Shichifukujin referred to as Seven Happy Gods. This is universally translated as Seven Lucky Gods, so it immediately struck me as weird, and made me wary.
Tokyo is described as “a maze of cement and steel – huge buildings crowded together, heavy traffic, the streets always filled with people. From the train window, however, I could see small forests or wooded areas here and there, surrounding local shrines or temples – green spaces for the gods and buddhas, as if to evoke their primeval origins. These are reminders that Tokyo was a castle town that grew to envelop the surrounding villages, some of which still retain their old local dialects from long ago. Here and there were persimmon trees full of orange-colored fruit, even in Tokyo.” I got an impression that the author doesn’t really know much about the city, and is relying on books and whatever he could see from the train window (in another part of the book, he uses a taxi to get to his hotel, instead of walk). Tokyo is full of green and quiet spots. The average height of a Tokyo building is 2 stories. Cement and steel? Mainly around huge stations like Shinjuku or Shibuya or Tokyo.
The book is full of Japanese names and citations in original language, but reader beware – they are often wrong. Maybe it’s the fault of the publisher, I don’t know. For example, at the beginning of the Niekawa chapter, there is the haiku by Basho, and the last line has too many syllables – it should be “hatsu shigure” 初しぐれ, not “hatsu ashigure”初あしぐれ, where did this “a” あ come from? Another one is translated as “being sent off, in the end, sending them off: autumn in the Kiso”（おくられつ おくりつ果ては 木曽の秋）; in fact, “in the end” is related to “autumn in the Kiso”, as in, time passes when you say your goodbyes, and the autumn comes (by the way, who is “them”?)… I don’t care much about Basho or haiku, but this translation looks simply wrong. (This particular poem is cited twice or so in the book for some reason, and the translation is slightly different every time, but the meaning remains the same.) Other examples are even more head-scratching:
“The Takeda lost over five hundred men that day, most of them buried in a swampy area nearby. As I read the sign, I was impressed that it states that the Takeda lost five hundred 名, or “names”, rather than a simpler 人, or “person“. This may be just common usage…”
Yes, it is common usage! When you go to a restaurant in Japan, you are asked how many people are in your group, and this very word is used… how come a person who is supposedly fluent in Japanese doesn’t know this? Speaking of restaurants, “gohan” is not “the rice you eat in Japanese restaurants”, it’s just “rice” (sometimes it means also “meal”).
Maybe it’s the editor’s fault, but disconcerting inconsistencies abound even in the names of people: one person is called Mr. Tsuchikawa, and then Tsuchikawasan, in the same paragraph. Anyway, typos and plain mistakes in the Japanese words, names and titles are really numerous. "Kuzuji" should really be kuzushiji, that is, cursive (even if you can literally translate it as “broken characters”, it's not what the word “broken” suggests.)
I was also surprised at this:
“Many Buddhist statues also suffered this vandalism during the Meiji period, when State Shinto was advocated and Buddhism was officially condemned.”
This is a confusion of two things; the vandalism and condemnation of Buddhism happened mostly at the beginning of the Meiji period, when the imperial faction (whose ideology was Shinto-based) fought with the shogunate faction (which supported Buddhism). State Shinto emerged much later.
So I couldn’t really enjoy this, and remained suspicious throughout. I liked the anecdote about the Episcopalian guy, but entertaining vignettes like these are really rare in this book.
The author is a translator of samurai literature, therefore he should be fluent in Japanese, but… there were so many doubtful moments! 12% into the book, I saw Shichifukujin referred to as Seven Happy Gods. This is universally translated as Seven Lucky Gods, so it immediately struck me as weird, and made me wary.
Tokyo is described as “a maze of cement and steel – huge buildings crowded together, heavy traffic, the streets always filled with people. From the train window, however, I could see small forests or wooded areas here and there, surrounding local shrines or temples – green spaces for the gods and buddhas, as if to evoke their primeval origins. These are reminders that Tokyo was a castle town that grew to envelop the surrounding villages, some of which still retain their old local dialects from long ago. Here and there were persimmon trees full of orange-colored fruit, even in Tokyo.” I got an impression that the author doesn’t really know much about the city, and is relying on books and whatever he could see from the train window (in another part of the book, he uses a taxi to get to his hotel, instead of walk). Tokyo is full of green and quiet spots. The average height of a Tokyo building is 2 stories. Cement and steel? Mainly around huge stations like Shinjuku or Shibuya or Tokyo.
The book is full of Japanese names and citations in original language, but reader beware – they are often wrong. Maybe it’s the fault of the publisher, I don’t know. For example, at the beginning of the Niekawa chapter, there is the haiku by Basho, and the last line has too many syllables – it should be “hatsu shigure” 初しぐれ, not “hatsu ashigure”初あしぐれ, where did this “a” あ come from? Another one is translated as “being sent off, in the end, sending them off: autumn in the Kiso”（おくられつ おくりつ果ては 木曽の秋）; in fact, “in the end” is related to “autumn in the Kiso”, as in, time passes when you say your goodbyes, and the autumn comes (by the way, who is “them”?)… I don’t care much about Basho or haiku, but this translation looks simply wrong. (This particular poem is cited twice or so in the book for some reason, and the translation is slightly different every time, but the meaning remains the same.) Other examples are even more head-scratching:
“The Takeda lost over five hundred men that day, most of them buried in a swampy area nearby. As I read the sign, I was impressed that it states that the Takeda lost five hundred 名, or “names”, rather than a simpler 人, or “person“. This may be just common usage…”
Yes, it is common usage! When you go to a restaurant in Japan, you are asked how many people are in your group, and this very word is used… how come a person who is supposedly fluent in Japanese doesn’t know this? Speaking of restaurants, “gohan” is not “the rice you eat in Japanese restaurants”, it’s just “rice” (sometimes it means also “meal”).
Maybe it’s the editor’s fault, but disconcerting inconsistencies abound even in the names of people: one person is called Mr. Tsuchikawa, and then Tsuchikawasan, in the same paragraph. Anyway, typos and plain mistakes in the Japanese words, names and titles are really numerous. "Kuzuji" should really be kuzushiji, that is, cursive (even if you can literally translate it as “broken characters”, it's not what the word “broken” suggests.)
I was also surprised at this:
“Many Buddhist statues also suffered this vandalism during the Meiji period, when State Shinto was advocated and Buddhism was officially condemned.”
This is a confusion of two things; the vandalism and condemnation of Buddhism happened mostly at the beginning of the Meiji period, when the imperial faction (whose ideology was Shinto-based) fought with the shogunate faction (which supported Buddhism). State Shinto emerged much later.
So I couldn’t really enjoy this, and remained suspicious throughout. I liked the anecdote about the Episcopalian guy, but entertaining vignettes like these are really rare in this book.
July 22, 2018
I have to give this book a great rating for 3 reasons.
1. It gave the inspiration for a trip I am planning to walk a leg of the Kiso Road. I have always wanted to walk some of the old roads in Japan. The Tokaido was the first that I heard of but it is mostly paved over. This book let me know about this road from the same era.
2. He describes the towns and the sights well so I was able to discover a few more interesting sites along the route that I may have overlooked.
3. His enthusiasm for the road is contagious. It has made me very excited to be going there even though it is still 2 months away.
That said, I am not into hearing about so many temples. Having been to many Japanese temples in the past, I am not so keen to see more. That said, I admire his knowledge of all of the Buddhist gods.
All in all a great book to read if you are also planning to hike the trail.
1. It gave the inspiration for a trip I am planning to walk a leg of the Kiso Road. I have always wanted to walk some of the old roads in Japan. The Tokaido was the first that I heard of but it is mostly paved over. This book let me know about this road from the same era.
2. He describes the towns and the sights well so I was able to discover a few more interesting sites along the route that I may have overlooked.
3. His enthusiasm for the road is contagious. It has made me very excited to be going there even though it is still 2 months away.
That said, I am not into hearing about so many temples. Having been to many Japanese temples in the past, I am not so keen to see more. That said, I admire his knowledge of all of the Buddhist gods.
All in all a great book to read if you are also planning to hike the trail.
June 28, 2016
There's not all that much travel narrative in audio format, and I'm a bit picky, so thought this one seemed promising -- it was.
If you're looking for comedic asides, a la Bill Bryson, this ain't that. Closer to Theroux, although Wilson knows the area, rather than observing as a detached stranger; indeed, some of the folks he runs across he considers friends, even if he has not had any contact with the person recently. In a nutshell, the story contains observation of the scenes along the route, including what has changed since he was there long ago, as well as historical background, often going back centuries, along with reports of discussions with locals. Wilson succeeds in integrating all that quite well, although I did get a tad lost a couple of times with the history, which turned out to be no big deal.
Here's the one feature that folks have commented upon, which even I felt a bit "here we go again" by the end: we're given the detailed menu of almost everything he ate and drank. Such as ... "after my bath, I reported for dinner, where we were served broiled chicken in a soy glaze, thinly sliced eggplant strips in miso sauce, pickled radish and onion, our choice of white or brown rice, coffee cake, beer and green tea."
Brian Nishii does a terrific job with both the Japanese, and occasional Chinese, words. However, on a few occasions I wondered about his pronunciation of English ones, as though he were guessing (wrong). Those few times aside, he was a very good fit for the material.
If you're looking for comedic asides, a la Bill Bryson, this ain't that. Closer to Theroux, although Wilson knows the area, rather than observing as a detached stranger; indeed, some of the folks he runs across he considers friends, even if he has not had any contact with the person recently. In a nutshell, the story contains observation of the scenes along the route, including what has changed since he was there long ago, as well as historical background, often going back centuries, along with reports of discussions with locals. Wilson succeeds in integrating all that quite well, although I did get a tad lost a couple of times with the history, which turned out to be no big deal.
Here's the one feature that folks have commented upon, which even I felt a bit "here we go again" by the end: we're given the detailed menu of almost everything he ate and drank. Such as ... "after my bath, I reported for dinner, where we were served broiled chicken in a soy glaze, thinly sliced eggplant strips in miso sauce, pickled radish and onion, our choice of white or brown rice, coffee cake, beer and green tea."
Brian Nishii does a terrific job with both the Japanese, and occasional Chinese, words. However, on a few occasions I wondered about his pronunciation of English ones, as though he were guessing (wrong). Those few times aside, he was a very good fit for the material.
August 28, 2017
I have enjoyed many of W.S.W.'s translations, and his biography of Miyamoto Musashi, but this book dragged for me. Travel writing, which this book is an example of, is a specialty that few people do well. Those that master the genre can do amazing things. This is not that book, unfortunately. It is interesting in places, but more so in the history of the road itself. Someone took an interesting walk and wrote a competent, if flat, book.
August 30, 2023
This is a mildly entertaining travel book about one particular journey down the Kiso Road, one stretch of the Nakasendo Road in Japan.
This made me look up some YouTube videos about the place. Between this book and those videos, I felt like going for a long walk through some beautiful countryside. If I had a bucket list, this road would be on it.
This made me look up some YouTube videos about the place. Between this book and those videos, I felt like going for a long walk through some beautiful countryside. If I had a bucket list, this road would be on it.
January 5, 2021
Let William Scott Wilson take you across the globe and back in time as you follow his journey down the ancient Kiso road of Japan. His adventure is full of friends, stories, poetry, and insightful historical knowledge—transporting the reader with a vicariousness that only the most attentive of writers can encourage. I wrote this as a tribute:
The moon drifts behind Maple leaves,
Table made of Cypress,
Good sake in the ryokan
The moon drifts behind Maple leaves,
Table made of Cypress,
Good sake in the ryokan
January 7, 2023
I find hiking through deep forests and mountains to be one of the best ways to calm down and feel good. This book is a travelog about parts of this historic road, with bits about history and the present road. It's a decent, read once sort of book and left me daydreaming about some of my own hikes.
November 7, 2016
While I relished the details, I must say I found the tone of the book a little flat. For such a solitary, reflective journey, I was expecting a more calm, harmonious tone from someone with a lot of experiences in Japanese culture.
I was disappointed.
For any travel writing book, the journey must have a purpose, or offers a specific perspective that started at the beginning of the journey, thoroughly discovered, tested during the journey and (hopefully) concluded in the end. While I understood that this book is about how a long walk along the Kiso Road takes one back in time, that is hardly enough to keep my attention and interest from wavering.
At times, it felt like it was just a journey that the author took in order to get the book done, especially since he had done the walk before (with much more "sincere" intentions, maybe?).
I agree that at times, the tone of the book was condescending. I absolutely against sugar coating one's observations but to mock, or to appear as if mocking, is hardly pleasing either.
I read it to find out more about the Nakasendo Way in general, and the Kiso Road in specific, so I was satisfied with the facts, notes and observations. I truly appreciate the haiku but sometimes their inclusions felt forced and artificial.
I was disappointed.
For any travel writing book, the journey must have a purpose, or offers a specific perspective that started at the beginning of the journey, thoroughly discovered, tested during the journey and (hopefully) concluded in the end. While I understood that this book is about how a long walk along the Kiso Road takes one back in time, that is hardly enough to keep my attention and interest from wavering.
At times, it felt like it was just a journey that the author took in order to get the book done, especially since he had done the walk before (with much more "sincere" intentions, maybe?).
I agree that at times, the tone of the book was condescending. I absolutely against sugar coating one's observations but to mock, or to appear as if mocking, is hardly pleasing either.
I read it to find out more about the Nakasendo Way in general, and the Kiso Road in specific, so I was satisfied with the facts, notes and observations. I truly appreciate the haiku but sometimes their inclusions felt forced and artificial.
August 13, 2017
The Kiso road was the road that the Japanese warlords used on their trips to and from the capital Edo (Tokyo) in the 1600s although the route thru the Japanese mountains and passes has been in use since at least 701 C.E. This ancient traffic was supported by inns and post towns all the length, some of which are still in service today. Wilson, a Japanese translator, has walked the Kiso Road several times. He mixes his travelogue with Confucius sayings, Japanese haikus and historical tidbits.
Why I started this book: I was looking thru Audible's Japanese selections and it looked interesting.
Why I finished it: Short book, but I now what to go hike a least a part of this trail... to experience some of this history for myself.
Why I started this book: I was looking thru Audible's Japanese selections and it looked interesting.
Why I finished it: Short book, but I now what to go hike a least a part of this trail... to experience some of this history for myself.
April 16, 2016
This book needs two things: a map and an index.
I read it because I'd come across mentions of the Kiso Road in several books about Japan. The author more than met my expectations, covering history and the experience of walking the road. I liked that his ability to speak Japanese allowed him to converse with the Japanese people he met and that his previous experiences on the road were also included. And the poetry (translated by the author, I assume) added another perspective.
I read it because I'd come across mentions of the Kiso Road in several books about Japan. The author more than met my expectations, covering history and the experience of walking the road. I liked that his ability to speak Japanese allowed him to converse with the Japanese people he met and that his previous experiences on the road were also included. And the poetry (translated by the author, I assume) added another perspective.
November 23, 2022
This was a delightful read! In many ways, it was an old-fashioned book. Wonderful to see Shambala Books is still producing books that will be on the shelves for a long time. The book chronicles the author's trip walking the old Kiso Road--from Niekawa to Magome. It is about sixty miles. This is a trip he has made many times--with friends sometimes and with his late wife. On this trip he is joined by one of my favorite literary translators, the great Ginny Tapley Takemori (and her husband).
The old Kiso Road is one of the Edo period "Five Highways" that connected the Edo with the outer provinces. The roads were significant because during the Tokugawa regime, there was a policy known as sankin-kōtai, that required the daimyō (regional rulers) to travel in alternate years along the routes to and from the capital. Wives and children were required to stay in Edo ful-time, thereby ensuring their daimyo husbands would not stage rebellions against the government since their loved ones were effectively being held hostage. Because the daimyo went back and forth, the five roads (kaido) saw a lot of foot traffic. The most important of the routes was the Tōkaidō, which linked Edo and Kyoto.
These roads were lined with inns and restaurants, tea shops and stores. Williams stays in traditional ryokan and minshuku along the way as well as visiting the reminants of the old honjin, which were the official places were the elite daimyo stayed during these official visits back and forth between Edo and their home provinces. I loved the mystery, the Honjin Murders, by Seishi Yokomizo, and translated byLouise Heal Kawai
There are lovely descriptions of the stunning scenery, including the five famous trees of Kiso. Shinto shrines are generally built from unfinished wood of the five trees. He also mentions some of the famous products of the area, and is wonderful in describing Japanese coffee as well.
The author is a well-known translator who specializes in samurai culture-- and the book is filled with lovely translations of haiku and short exerts from the Analects. Wilson walks carrying dictionaries and his copy of the Analects--like a true bunjin.
Wonderful book!
The old Kiso Road is one of the Edo period "Five Highways" that connected the Edo with the outer provinces. The roads were significant because during the Tokugawa regime, there was a policy known as sankin-kōtai, that required the daimyō (regional rulers) to travel in alternate years along the routes to and from the capital. Wives and children were required to stay in Edo ful-time, thereby ensuring their daimyo husbands would not stage rebellions against the government since their loved ones were effectively being held hostage. Because the daimyo went back and forth, the five roads (kaido) saw a lot of foot traffic. The most important of the routes was the Tōkaidō, which linked Edo and Kyoto.
These roads were lined with inns and restaurants, tea shops and stores. Williams stays in traditional ryokan and minshuku along the way as well as visiting the reminants of the old honjin, which were the official places were the elite daimyo stayed during these official visits back and forth between Edo and their home provinces. I loved the mystery, the Honjin Murders, by Seishi Yokomizo, and translated byLouise Heal Kawai
There are lovely descriptions of the stunning scenery, including the five famous trees of Kiso. Shinto shrines are generally built from unfinished wood of the five trees. He also mentions some of the famous products of the area, and is wonderful in describing Japanese coffee as well.
The author is a well-known translator who specializes in samurai culture-- and the book is filled with lovely translations of haiku and short exerts from the Analects. Wilson walks carrying dictionaries and his copy of the Analects--like a true bunjin.
Wonderful book!
December 11, 2017
What an enjoyable and insightful journey that the author provides as he walks along the Kisoji again, documenting his experiences. He also includes context with details of the specific Buddhist Temples and Shinto Shrines he walks by, his interactions with the local people, and some history regarding the road's establishment and some towns' successful development and others' decline. The author has spent much time in Japan, leading back to the 1970s (or was it even in the late 1960s?) and offers insight through his long-term friendships, interactions with the many priests and inn keepers, local and national history, as well as many poems that he found applicable to his experience as he walked along the Kiso Road. His extensive knowledge of history and his work as a translator added depth to the journey, although only in small snippets. I found that this encouraged further reading and learning, which I hope to do. I found myself wanting to meet the author and ask questions and learn from him. His attitude and presentation very much seemed to be well-balanced and harmonious, which is a testament to the many friends that he made over the years that remembered him and enhanced his experience walking along the Kisoji, which he described as beautiful, harrowing, challenging, and peaceful. I hope to have an opportunity to walk parts of it some time. I thoroughly enjoyed this book, although I wish that it included a map of Central Japan that I could have referenced as I read his accounts and experiences.
July 31, 2022
The subtitle of this book was what intrigued me about it when I read a review of a few travel books that the author of the article thought might be under appreciated, or even unknown. It is a modern day exploration of Old Japan--which is what I would aspire to do when I get there myself.
The author, who has had an academic career translating traditional Japanese texts on samurai culture into English, travels the ancient Kiso Road, a legendary route that remains much the same today as it was hundreds of years ago, and tells stories about what happens to him, as well as the significance of the places he stops. The Kisoji, which runs through the Kiso Valley in the Japanese Alps, has been in use since at least 701 C.E. In the seventeenth century, it was the route that the daimyo (warlords) used for their biennial trips—along with their samurai and porters—to the new capital of Edo (now Tokyo). The natural beauty of the route is renowned—and famously inspired the landscapes of Hiroshige, as well as the work of many other artists and writers. Wilson, esteemed translator of samurai philosophy, has walked the road several times and is an expert guide to this popular tourist destination; he shares its rich history and lore, literary and artistic significance, cuisine and architecture, as well as his own experiences.
The author, who has had an academic career translating traditional Japanese texts on samurai culture into English, travels the ancient Kiso Road, a legendary route that remains much the same today as it was hundreds of years ago, and tells stories about what happens to him, as well as the significance of the places he stops. The Kisoji, which runs through the Kiso Valley in the Japanese Alps, has been in use since at least 701 C.E. In the seventeenth century, it was the route that the daimyo (warlords) used for their biennial trips—along with their samurai and porters—to the new capital of Edo (now Tokyo). The natural beauty of the route is renowned—and famously inspired the landscapes of Hiroshige, as well as the work of many other artists and writers. Wilson, esteemed translator of samurai philosophy, has walked the road several times and is an expert guide to this popular tourist destination; he shares its rich history and lore, literary and artistic significance, cuisine and architecture, as well as his own experiences.
December 28, 2019
(I actually listened to the audiobook version, read by Brian Nishii - he is so good! His Japanese and Chinese pronunciations are perfect, and his English is melodious).
This is a wonderful book. Unlike many a Japan travel memoir written in English this is not couched as some kind of 'discovering myself in the mysterious and quirky land of Japan'. Rather it is written by someone who has visited Japan, and specifically this part of Japan, many times over the years. While peppered with quotations and the occasional deep thoughts about walking, travel and self, it is actually a mildly humorous, very entertaining travelogue of a walk through part of Japan that has deliberately retained many traditional features surrounded by natural beauty. We follow Wilson as he makes new friends and connects with old ones while walking most of the Kiso Road (occasionally blisters got the best of him). Whether you love Japan, or just like to share interesting travel stories, this is a book worth spending time with.
This is a wonderful book. Unlike many a Japan travel memoir written in English this is not couched as some kind of 'discovering myself in the mysterious and quirky land of Japan'. Rather it is written by someone who has visited Japan, and specifically this part of Japan, many times over the years. While peppered with quotations and the occasional deep thoughts about walking, travel and self, it is actually a mildly humorous, very entertaining travelogue of a walk through part of Japan that has deliberately retained many traditional features surrounded by natural beauty. We follow Wilson as he makes new friends and connects with old ones while walking most of the Kiso Road (occasionally blisters got the best of him). Whether you love Japan, or just like to share interesting travel stories, this is a book worth spending time with.
October 11, 2025
I wasn't really enjoying this much when I came on a bit that really turned me off. The author is traveling and meets a young American soldier. He makes fun of the kid because he has a shit grasp of geography. Here's the thing, I don't think a good knowledge of geography is required to defend the United States, you boorish douche bag. And since you're such a worldly douche bag, couldn't you find some other topic to discuss with the kid? Maybe you could have even educated him a bit instead of mocking him behind his back.
He also used Japanese WAY too much in this, like he's showing off. Good for you if you speak Japanese, but most English readers don't and it's tiresome for me to stumble over foreign words way too often in a text.
Another hurried review just to put this book in my rearview mirror.
He also used Japanese WAY too much in this, like he's showing off. Good for you if you speak Japanese, but most English readers don't and it's tiresome for me to stumble over foreign words way too often in a text.
Another hurried review just to put this book in my rearview mirror.
April 13, 2024
Just finished this on the train from Matsumoto to Nagoya, and overall it made a good companion to walking on the road, though sadly I was going in the opposite direction. Overall it read like a Bill Bryson book but maybe a little more subdued. The author is a Japanese scholar with friends in the region, and he also spends time discussing military history, religious history, folk tales, the haiku written by Bashō and others along the road, and best of all his stays in small inns.
Because he’s covering so much he doesn’t get a chance to get deep very much. Which was fine. I did enjoy seeing Mt Ontake from the Torii pass after reading about the syncretic religion worshipping the mountain.
I just wish traveling was leaving more time for reading!
Because he’s covering so much he doesn’t get a chance to get deep very much. Which was fine. I did enjoy seeing Mt Ontake from the Torii pass after reading about the syncretic religion worshipping the mountain.
I just wish traveling was leaving more time for reading!
September 29, 2018
This is a frustrating book in which the author pairs his superb knowledge of haiku and old, even ancient, Japanese historical documents with a poor travelogue. Walking the Kiso Road is a fascinating idea and the author introduces the ancient walking culture of Japan. There are no maps or pictures, however. The unique system of barriers and post towns is described in an excellent introduction. After the introduction, the journey becomes a confusing list of meals, lodging, shrines, baths, old friends and blisters. The book would have benefited from an overview of topics such as religion and cultural norms.
August 1, 2018
The account of one man's walk along the Kisokaido, a lesser known road than the Tokaido, one of the routes that led to the capital of the Tokugawa prior to the fall of the shogunate and the modernization of Japan. Here, tucked among the locals' stories and poetic anecdotes is the Japan that I suspect many people hope to experience before being distracted by the flashing lights of modernity that characterizes Tokyo.
Meditative and inspiring, Mr. Wilson's knowledge of Japanese language, history, philosophy and religion bring a depth to the experience that most of us could barely approach.
Meditative and inspiring, Mr. Wilson's knowledge of Japanese language, history, philosophy and religion bring a depth to the experience that most of us could barely approach.
February 24, 2022
I personally really enjoyed this book! I don't know much about Japan but did not feel that the author's details and quotes from older texts about the Kiso Road were boring. I liked hearing about all the details of his trip, down to what we ate for each meal! It made it feel like I was there with him (without the pain in my feet). This certainly has me itching to walk the Road myself, and was a good reminder of the importance that walking is not just a mode of transportation, and travel is not just about staying in one's "comforts."
March 21, 2023
Lovely travelogue of walking the Kiso Road. If there is a language level beyond fluency - i.e. where one can translate old works - the author is at that level. As a result, the book contains excerpts from very old tales from the road, translations of related poems and haiku, Confucian sayings, and more. Good mix of historical information and his own experience walking, details on shops and ryokan/minshuku along the way, and even walking distances. Definitely a walk I will go on, and many thanks to the author for an excellent guidebook.
August 17, 2017
This is just one of those books that makes you want to get out and walk, see the same places, walk the same paths.
Not as powerful as Booth, or as entertaining as McLachlan, or as funny as Chavez (in case you wanted a push towards other "walking in Japan" books), but still a nice read.
Not as powerful as Booth, or as entertaining as McLachlan, or as funny as Chavez (in case you wanted a push towards other "walking in Japan" books), but still a nice read.
August 14, 2020
What I liked best about this book was Wilson's quiet self-effacement. He tried not to put himself in front of the viewer's gaze and there were no brooding ruminations. This is a rare gift in a travel writer.
June 28, 2022
I was excited to read this book but i sure did not find what i was looking for. Interesting facts at parts but not a captivating travelogue. The way that the historical information is presented along the trip diary did not quite work for me. It was incoherent.
June 8, 2023
We saw this book while doing the Nakasendo walk. Borrowed the book after the walk. Nice to relive the walk, even though we took the opposite direction to that of the author. We enjoyed the walk but I am not yet able to appreciate the walk with the Japanese poetry that the author cited!
One day!
One day!
August 23, 2017
Good travel narrative.
August 11, 2019
So glad I read this book :-)
December 1, 2020
Wonderful! A must-read for any Japan enthusiast,
August 27, 2021
Meh. Interesting Poetry and History parts are not enough to save the dreadful personal details of blisters and bad sleep in this just OK effort at a Travelogue that promised so much more.
February 3, 2022
Amazing. This work has me jonesing to hike the Kisoji!
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