This classic text, first published in 1994, gives the reader a charming and entertaining account of the suit's development from the seventeenth century to the end of the twentieth. Reprinted now for the twenty-first century, the narrative reveals a fascinating motley of curious and frequently amusing facts; from the arcane mysteries of button replacement to the remarkable influence of princes and kings. Sir Hardy Amies's enchanting book will still delight any gentleman, and be of help to any would-be gentleman.
Edwin Hardy Amies was born in Maida Vale, London and educated in Essex at Brentwood School, which he left in 1927.
His father wanted him to go to Cambridge University but he had his heart set on being a journalist. And through the suggestion of the editor of the Daily Express he travelled Europe learning French and German and working for a customs agent.
He returned to England where he became a sales assistant in a ceramic wall-tile factory, and then a trainee weight machine salesman with W & T Avery Ltd. in Birmingham.
His mother had many contacts in the fashion world and through these he became managing director of the Mayfair couture house Lachasse on Farm Street, Berkeley Square; it was 1934 and he was just 25.
He served in the Special Operations Executive in World War II and in 1946 he was knighted in Belgium as a Named Officier de l'Ordre de la Couronne.
After the war the Countess of Jersey financed a move to Savile Row for him and in January 1946 he established his own couture fashion house business, Hardy Amies Ltd.
His business grew from strength to strength as he became designer for Queen Elizabeth II and he was knighted in 1989. In May 1973, he had sold Hardy Amies Ltd to Debenhams, who had already purchased Hepworths, the firm that distributed the Hardy Amies line. Ironically he purchased the business back in 1981 and in May 2001, he sold it once again, to the Luxury Brands Group.
One could perhaps be forgiven for thinking a book entitled 'The Englishman's Suit' would be as dull as ditchwater. But nothing could be further from the truth for Hardy Amies account of this apparel is a sparkling read.
It is as though the author is talking directly to the reader on a one-to-one basis as he takes the story from its beginnings in the seventeenth century right through to the present day.
There are anecdotes galore from fashion conscious Kings, from Charles I to Edward VIII and Prince Philip, Beau Brummell, Count Alfred D'Orsay, and of course, from Amies himself. As well as outlining the history of the suit he touches on all the accessories as well, each in their own short chapter.
In addition there is some history of Savile Row and the Amies empire, all of which makes the book a most entertaining read from start to finish.
Footnote: Perhaps I have a slight bias as when I started work at H M Treasury I did not possess a suit, being a young schoolboy and my Dad took me to Hepworths in Blackpool and had me measured for a Hardy Amies suit at a cost of 50 shillings (£2.50)!
Now, get that image out of your head. Hardy Amies wasn't a mincing department store menswear salesman (in fact, he's rather disparaging of department store staff). Think, instead, of the Merchant Taylors' Company and all that it stands for. Imagine who you think might be attracted to such a profession.
Amies writes an engaging history of the suit. Born into a lower middle class family and achieving his own name over a door on Saville Row, he exhibits all the wonder and thrall to aristocracy and monarchy that you might expect - a textbook Tory. He also displays a very British wit. His history is loquacious and droll as well as authoritative. So while I may chafe a little at his Hyacinth Bucket tendencies I can still recommend this short book as an entertaining niche popular history book.